Chain saw recommendation (Stihl)

[heffergm]

I'd like to go to the local dealer armed with a pretty good idea of what I'm going to buy ahead of time, so I figured I'd enlist some help here...

Here's the basic rundown of what I'll be doing:

- this winter, I've got 30+ decent sized oaks to go through (because they're close to the house, a friend who runs a tree service will be dropping them with a bucket truck, mulching all the brush and cutting them into manageable sections).

- the largest width I'll have to deal with is roughly 16".

- after this task I'll be felling enough trees on the property every year (or from sections delivered by same tree service guy if we can work something out) to yield me 2-3 cords or thereabouts

- I want something that'll give me a good service life and is as safe as it can be. I've been using the usual tiny saws and safety chains for years and years now, and I'm fed up with them.

With all that in mind, I was considering an MS280 C-BQ simply because I like the second chain brake and tool-less chain tensioning. However, the price is a bit of a downer at $550 and change. Should I just go with a 290 and call it a day? Another Stihl I should consider altogether?

Secondly, I'm assuming these saws are all going to come with safety chains. Recommendations for something else? It sounds from my research that I want a semi-chisel, but I don't know what that equates to in Stihl terms, so any info appreciated.

TIA!

 

[smokinj]

290 where i'd go, run the safty chain for awhile.

 

[djblech]

I have a 036 and a ms 170. The 36 has a 16" bar. I have tried 18" and 20" bars and found the 16" to be the best power to weight. I am thinking about another saw probably in the ms260 range. I have had really good luck with stihl saws.

 

[Highbeam]

The fact that you're fed up with the big box saws and that you wasnt better but not 550$ better puts you right at the 290. I just bought one this year for the same reasons. It is a lifetime saw for your use description and is just as safe as anything. The chain tension is easily adjustable since the adjsutment screw is on the side vs. parallel to the bar like on a poulan. I find it very easy to tension the chain.

They will sell it with safety chain, but they will likely throw in a new chain on the deal. I got a full chisel skip chain which is non-safety and love it. Truly though, the safety chain from stihl is pretty aggressive and throws some good chips. It's not trash.

 

[blel]

Stihl also sells a semi chisel, non safety chain. Might me a good compromise.

 

[Monkey Wrench]

290 where i'd go, run the safty chain for awhile.

If you chose to go with the stihl 250 or 290 Stihl has a free case offer going on. Ask for it.

http://www.stihldealer.net/default-dealer-002509.aspx

 

[Tony H]

I have a 250 and while it's a nice saw if I were to just have one the 290 would be a fine choice . In my case i have some larger tree's and always intended to get a larger saw looking at the 390 same weight as the 290 and 310 but a bit more power.
Husky saws are also worth considering.

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I'd like to go to the local dealer armed with a pretty good idea of what I'm going to buy ahead of time, so I figured I'd enlist some help here...

Here's the basic rundown of what I'll be doing:

- this winter, I've got 30+ decent sized oaks to go through (because they're close to the house, a friend who runs a tree service will be dropping them with a bucket truck, mulching all the brush and cutting them into manageable sections).

- the largest width I'll have to deal with is roughly 16".

- after this task I'll be felling enough trees on the property every year (or from sections delivered by same tree service guy if we can work something out) to yield me 2-3 cords or thereabouts

- I want something that'll give me a good service life and is as safe as it can be. I've been using the usual tiny saws and safety chains for years and years now, and I'm fed up with them.

With all that in mind, I was considering an MS280 C-BQ simply because I like the second chain brake and tool-less chain tensioning. However, the price is a bit of a downer at $550 and change. Should I just go with a 290 and call it a day? Another Stihl I should consider altogether?

Secondly, I'm assuming these saws are all going to come with safety chains. Recommendations for something else? It sounds from my research that I want a semi-chisel, but I don't know what that equates to in Stihl terms, so any info appreciated.

TIA!

1) For $550 you can get a 260

2) For a bit more you can get a 361

3) Or, for about $350 you can get a 290

 

[Bigg_Redd]

I'd like to go to the local dealer armed with a pretty good idea of what I'm going to buy ahead of time, so I figured I'd enlist some help here...

Here's the basic rundown of what I'll be doing:

- this winter, I've got 30+ decent sized oaks to go through (because they're close to the house, a friend who runs a tree service will be dropping them with a bucket truck, mulching all the brush and cutting them into manageable sections).

- the largest width I'll have to deal with is roughly 16".

- after this task I'll be felling enough trees on the property every year (or from sections delivered by same tree service guy if we can work something out) to yield me 2-3 cords or thereabouts

- I want something that'll give me a good service life and is as safe as it can be. I've been using the usual tiny saws and safety chains for years and years now, and I'm fed up with them.

With all that in mind, I was considering an MS280 C-BQ simply because I like the second chain brake and tool-less chain tensioning. However, the price is a bit of a downer at $550 and change. Should I just go with a 290 and call it a day? Another Stihl I should consider altogether?

Secondly, I'm assuming these saws are all going to come with safety chains. Recommendations for something else? It sounds from my research that I want a semi-chisel, but I don't know what that equates to in Stihl terms, so any info appreciated.

TIA!

1) For $550 you can get a 260

2) For a bit more you can get a 361

3) Or, for about $350 you can get a 290

Here's what I mean - Don't spend a bunch of money on a 280AB-XYZ or whatever it is.

 

[Kong]

Well, I've got to say something for the first post so here goes.

I've got an 026-Pro and an 029-Super. Both saws are several years old. I also have just under 100 acres of woodlot from which I've been taking fire wood for over 30 years. So there is a background of experience to draw on.

The 026-Pro is a more powerful saw than the 029 and it is also lighter. If I could have just one saw the 029 would be on E-Bay today and that's saying something when you consider that the 026 is at least 5 years older than the 029. Don't get me wrong, the 029 is a great saw but it can't hold a candle to the 026-Pro. I just thought youi should know that. Know what the tell-tale sign is that the apparently smaller saw is the better say? My son grabs up the 026 as soon as the truck stops and leaves the heavier saw to the old man.

Chains and bars. There are many different chains made by Stihl and others. I use Stihl chains exclusively simply because they are no more expensive (I buy them on E-Bay) than after market chains and they work well. I always know what I'm getting because Stihl is very good about telling you what chains do what on their website. My preference is RM2 full chisel chains, in fact I don't use anything else and don't know of any good reason why I should change. The full chisel chains cut faster and are easier to shapren than the hobby chains. As to the length, and I'm just basing this on your post, the answer is simple. You want an 18" bar. I say that after some soul searching. In past years I've run 16". 18", and 20" bars on these saws. Generally speaking I'd use a 20" on the 029 and an 18" on the 026. However starting this year I've been putting 18" bars on both saws and I've just kept a good 20" guide bar and two sharp 20" chains in reserve for the big stuff. Both saws are capable of spinning the 18" full chisel chains through White Oak, Hickory, and Red Oak with ease and will cut with just the weight of the saw. We also cut a good bit of Maple and Elm. These sized bars and chains will be perfect for the wood size you describe.

You said something about buying a case for the saw. Don't waste your money, they quickly turn into orange plastic junk that you can't find a place to store. Just get a cover for the bar so you don't cut anything with the sharp chain.

Now for the cheap side of me. I didn't buy either of the saws I mentioned new. They both came off of E-Bay and neither one of them cost half as much as the dealer wants. I used the 026 for about 5 years before the engine siezed up. I took it to the local Stihl dealer who looked at it and told me it would be more expensive to fix than to buy a new one. So I took it home, bought a new cylinder and piston on E-Bay for $80, and installed the thing in less than 20 minutes - and this was the first time I'd ever done this with a chain saw engine. That was about 4 years ago and the saw has run flawlessly ever since. At any given moment there will be a half a dozen 026 or 260 saws on E-Bay with exactly the same problem and less than an hour of time on the saw. People buy them dump straight gas in them, and then run them until they sieze all the time. the warranty doen't cover stupidity and the disappointed owners sell them for whatever they can get. Like I said, the parts to fix them cost less than $100 bucks and it is simplicity itself to do the repair.

At any rate that would be my suggestion. Go for an 026 or 260 and use an 18" bar on it with a full chisel chain. It will last you a lifetime on easy wood and if you decide you don't like it you can sell it for what you paid for it if you buy one used. They are so reliable and easily repaired that buying one new is sort of silly considering the savings available.

 

[stee6043]

Yesterday I dropped a huge cherry with an ultra dull chain and had a bit of an interesting thought - is safety chain really "safer"? I run full chisel all day long. When the full chisel get's dull it reminds me of cutting with safety chain. And I can notice how much harder I have to work to get through trees, make my notches, make my back cuts, etc. To me the biggest risk when cutting is when you get tired. Working harder = getting tired sooner. So in my simple mind I tend to think safety chain may actually be less safe in many cases.

But this is just my thought for the day. I'll never run safety chain again unless it's out of shear desperation. Once you go yellow tag you'll never go back....

 

[btuser]

Is safety chain really "safer"? I run full chisel all day long. When the full chisel get's dull it reminds me of cutting with safety chain. And I can notice how much harder I have to work to get through trees, make my notches, make my back cuts, etc. To me the biggest risk when cutting is when you get tired....

I'll never run safety chain again unless it's out of shear desperation. Once you go yellow tag you'll never go back....

Shear desperation? Ok, I guess that's funny.


I also think a safety chain is not as safe as it's name would sound. I've got a 250ms w/ 16" bar and run it with a full chisel. Wow, what a difference, but it definately jumps around a lot more. I do about 3 chords a year. I like the smaller size, and the lack of excess power is a good thing in the hands of a non-pro like myself. I have no problems dropping/limbing/cutting 24" oak with it. If it starts to bog down its only because I'm twisting the bar/out of position. I would only want a larger saw if I could move up to a 20" bar for bucking logs, but I'm cutting down maybe 10 trees a year so that's not a high priority.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

Spend the extra money for a German made Stihl. You will get German main bearings & a Mahle piston & cylinder. These quality parts among others are what gave Stihl it's great rep, Randy PS, full chisel chain!

 

[heffergm]

I take it the pro grade saws are built in Germany then?

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

The saw should say on the recoil cover if it is German made, Randy

 

[Kong]

The "Pro" model of the 026 has a compression release on the top, the non-Pro model does not. That'd be about the difference.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

I bought a 390 this year and it is great. A whole horsepower more than the 290 and only a few bucks more. I got the 20 inch bar and like it. It can handle up to 28 inch without a problem if you ever need it. It also has the compression button for easy starting. I used both the safety chain and the full chisel. With the 390 it cuts like butter with both.

 

[saxman]

I would recomend the MS361, it will pull a 20" bar great and a 25" if you have to. It is the pro series saw and will last a lifetime if cared for. I have several Stihl saws and it is my go to saw for mid sized work.

Steve

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Regarding chains: If you fell most of your wood then by all means go with a "full chisel" (we just call them "chisel bit" chains around here) chain. If most of the wood you cut is on the ground or yarded then save yourself a heap of trouble and get round-bit skip-tooth chains. In fact, regardless of what you chain you get go with a skip tooth.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

Regarding chains: If you fell most of your wood then by all means go with a "full chisel" (we just call them "chisel bit" chains around here) chain. If most of the wood you cut is on the ground or yarded then save yourself a heap of trouble and get round-bit skip-tooth chains. In fact, regardless of what you chain you get go with a skip tooth.

What is a skip tooth? I seen them on the site mentioned but never saw one on ebay etc.

 

[LLigetfa]

What is a skip tooth? I seen them on the site mentioned but never saw one on ebay etc.

(broken link removed to http://www.madsens1.com/MNUbarchain.htm)

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Regarding chains: If you fell most of your wood then by all means go with a "full chisel" (we just call them "chisel bit" chains around here) chain. If most of the wood you cut is on the ground or yarded then save yourself a heap of trouble and get round-bit skip-tooth chains. In fact, regardless of what you chain you get go with a skip tooth.

What is a skip tooth? I seen them on the site mentioned but never saw one on ebay etc.

Imagine sharpening half the teeth without losing any cutting speed. Yes, THAT is the reality of skip-tooth chains. The naysayers here will declaim against this loud and long, but they are wrong. Ignore them.

 

[thinkxingu]

Bigg,
Serious question: how is it possible that it cuts with the same speed and only half the teeth? If each tooth takes off the same amount of wood then, logically, a chain with double the teeth would take off double the wood, yes? I've seen that skip-tooth chains are better for big bars where there is a lot of material to remove, but otherwise I don't understand.

S

 

[LLigetfa]

The spaces between the cutters of a full comp get filled with chips which can lift the cutters up out of the wood. A skip chain has more space for chips. Did you not read the explanation at the Madsen's site I linked?

 

[thinkxingu]

LLigetfa,
Yes, I did read--which is why I'm asking Redd why he thinks skips are faster. Unless, of course (as I mentioned), for larger bars--34"+ (how many people?).

S

From the site you linked:

"Full-compliment has the most cutting teeth [which]...make it the smoothest and fastest cutting on jobs that require short cuts."

"Full-Skip is...usually preferred by customers who run long bars and cut large softwood trees."

Bars 24" & Under
When running a bar length of 24" or less, full compliment is the best choice.

Bars 28" - 32"
When running bar lengths of 28" to 32", the best sequence is less certain.

Bars 34" & Longer
When running bar lengths of 36" or longer, a skip sequence is usually the best choice.