Can anyone recommend a SS liner 15' with T

[newcenturystove]

Hey guys, decided to bite the bullet and purchase a SS liner about 15' with a T kit.
Can one of you recommend me a kit that is decent and doesn't burn the wallet too badly?

 

[begreen]

Rockford and Woodland have kits. I have also had good results working with these folks:
https://woodstovepro.com/chimney-pipe-venting-pipe/wood-all-fuel-piping/6-inch/ (ask for Sean)
https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/
https://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Chimney-Liners

 

[newcenturystove]

Rockford and Woodland have kits. I have also had good results working with these folks:
https://woodstovepro.com/chimney-pipe-venting-pipe/wood-all-fuel-piping/6-inch/ (ask for Sean)
https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/
https://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Chimney-Liners

Ok, been looking at the rockford kits on amazon. Does the T connect to the same ID class A pipe? Do you NEED the insulation wrap?
looks like a decent price/kit below


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JQ8ZJ6/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[bholler]

Ok, been looking at the rockford kits on amazon. Does the T connect to the same ID class A pipe? Do you NEED the insulation wrap?
looks like a decent price/kit below


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JQ8ZJ6/?tag=hearthamazon-20

No the tee does not connect to class a and yes you need insulation.

 

[newcenturystove]

No the tee does not connect to class a and yes you need insulation.

How do you connect double wall pipe inside to the T

 

[bholler]

How do you connect double wall pipe inside to the T

Are you talking about doublewall connector pipe or doublewall class a? Did you ever open up the crock area to see what you have?

 

[newcenturystove]

Are you talking about doublewall connector pipe or doublewall class a? Did you ever open up the crock area to see what you have?

Haven't opened it up but probably your basic wood frame wall. I've got all double wall pipe for the inside due to that close ceiling clearance, not class A. i'm going to install a thimble for the wall. Does the double wall pipe just connect directly to the T thru the thimble? and does that kit I link look like everything I need for the inside of the chimney portion?

 

[bholler]

Haven't opened it up but probably your basic wood frame wall. I've got all double wall pipe for the inside due to that close ceiling clearance, not class A. i'm going to install a thimble for the wall. Does the double wall pipe just connect directly to the T thru the thimble? and does that kit I link look like everything I need for the inside of the chimney portion?

What thimble are you planning on using? Yes the kit looks complete

 

[newcenturystove]

What thimble are you planning on using? Yes the kit looks complete

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHVIJK/?tag=hearthamazon-20

Now I do have a 18" piece of class A double pipe 6" we were talking about before replacing my clay thimble with. If i can't use that i'll be sending it back

 

[bholler]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHVIJK/?tag=hearthamazon-20

Now I do have a 18" piece of class A double pipe 6" we were talking about before replacing my clay thimble with. If i can't use that i'll be sending it back

That thimble is only for use with class a pipe. And there is no way to attach class a pipe to a liner properly. You need something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D1KZWS/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[newcenturystove]

That thimble is only for use with class a pipe. And there is no way to attach class a pipe to a liner properly. You need something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D1KZWS/?tag=hearthamazon-20

Anything cheaper...? this thing keeps adding up! originally wanted to hook it up to save money lol. What about 8" class A pipe as a "thimble" and keeping 6" of clearance around it thru the wall?

 

[bholler]

Anything cheaper...? this thing keeps adding up! originally wanted to hook it up to save money lol. What about 8" class A pipe as a "thimble" and keeping 6" of clearance around it thru the wall?

Passing through class a would be fine. That is what i recomened first. I would use 7" instead of 8"

 

[newcenturystove]

Passing through class a would be fine. That is what i recomened first. I would use 7" instead of 8"

That's what i'll do. Do I need any thing special to connect the double wall Dvl stove pipe to the T inside of the class A pass through?

 

[bholler]

That's what i'll do. Do I need any thing special to connect the double wall Dvl stove pipe to the T inside of the class A pass through?

You don't connect it inside the class a. You run the tee snout all the way through then connect to it following the instructions for the pipe.

 

[newcenturystove]

You don't connect it inside the class a. You run the tee snout all the way through then connect to it following the instructions for the pipe.

Gotcha. Next problem is the T snout is only 10" in length on the one I linked

 

[bholler]

Gotcha. Next problem is the T snout is only 10" in length on the one I linked

Get a longer one or extend it with a peice of. Stainless pipe.

 

[newcenturystove]

Get a longer one or extend it with a peice of. Stainless pipe.

Next question, how do you remove the bottom of the T to clean/inspect if your cleanout is far below it?
And if I can't fit the liner thru with the existing clay liner, what's the best way to bust it out?

 

[bholler]

Next question, how do you remove the bottom of the T to clean/inspect if your cleanout is far below it?
And if I can't fit the liner thru with the existing clay liner, what's the best way to bust it out?

You don't remove the bottom of the tee. If you want to use your clean out you need another tee and a section of liner to run down to it. Then mortar that tee in so the bottom is sealed.

You won't fit the insulated liner down the existing liner. It needs broken out. I just use a tile breaker. I wouldn't attempt it without the proper equipment but there are some here who have.

 

[newcenturystove]

You don't remove the bottom of the tee. If you want to use your clean out you need another tee and a section of liner to run down to it. Then mortar that tee in so the bottom is sealed.

You won't fit the insulated liner down the existing liner. It needs broken out. I just use a tile breaker. I wouldn't attempt it without the proper equipment but there are some here who have.

so with steel liner you just brush to the bottom and vacuum it there I assume?

 

[bholler]

so with steel liner you just brush to the bottom and vacuum it there I assume?

That is how many do it. If there is a clean out I always extend the liner down to it.

 

[newcenturystove]

i'm guessing I have only 2-3 24" sections of liner in this 15' chimney.

without spending tons on equipment what would be a good way to break them out?

 

[newcenturystove]

Rockford and Woodland have kits. I have also had good results working with these folks:
https://woodstovepro.com/chimney-pipe-venting-pipe/wood-all-fuel-piping/6-inch/ (ask for Sean)
https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/
https://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Chimney-Liners

begreen and bholler.... need your opinion and expertise on this here. wall is old school wood boards, looks like someone put a piece of thin metal over them for i guess heat protection however long ago. what's my options now? closest wood to that clay thimble is about 1 1/2 inchs or so

 

[begreen]

This is a combustible wall. Options have not changed from what has previously been recommended in this and the other thread.

 

[newcenturystove]

Ok, just didn't know if anything changed since that wood is so close. class A pipe calls for 2" of clearance? I can try to trim back the wood a bit to expose more masonry.

 

[begreen]

You would need a proper thimble, which you said was too expensive and instead chose a class A thimble to pass the class A pipe through the wall. That thimble will maintain the 2" clearance requirement. You posted the part in another thread, though that was for 6" class A. bholler recommended to you to use a 7" thimble so that the 6" snout from the liner can pass through the class A pipe.