Cab50 problem....again.

[imacman]

They still haven't changed it.....

OK, I'm confused with what you said here, compared to what you said in post #43: "Our dealer just switched out our control box "

So, which is it?

 

[DexterDay]

OK, I'm confused with what you said here, compared to what you said in post #43: "Our dealer just switched out our control box "

So, which is it?

I believe she is referring to the door gasket?

MommyOf4, did they ever change the door gasket ??

 

[gfreek]

They still haven't changed it. They said I need to shut the door tighter. We've been pushing it as tight as we can. It's been working ok so far. We'll see in a few hours.

So no door gasket.... Shut the door tighter.... What??????

 

[imacman]

So no door gasket.... Shut the door tighter.... What??????

As I remember, Eric gave her the means to change the door latch and add washers to tighten it up. Wonder if that ever got done?

 

[saladdin]

There's no lid switch. Everything seems to be closing properly.

There is a lid switch.

 

[saladdin]

Our dealer just switched out our control box and wouldn't even take a tip for coming out. He said that our control box was on the wrong setting. He said it was supposed to be on 2 but was on 4? I though it was supposed to be on 4.

Not sure why they would need to change out the control box just to change a setting.
What was it on and what did they change it to?

 

[saladdin]

Hi. Sorry for the late replay. I had to get back to work. The part number on my control box was made in 2008 and it is part number 7058-172 which is the first control boxes they put in the EcoChoice stoves. That is supposed to be a 4. My stove was made this year also. The new control boxes are 7058-188. You can see the number on the control box just by taking the side panel off. Nothing else needs to be done. What HHT didn't ASK me when they checked my serial number was what is the part number on my control box when I had an issue. They ASSUMED because it was made in sep/oct 2012 that it had the new control box. Obviously not true. [email protected] answered this question for me about the 2 or 4 setting. HHT techs are ok but not the best on the call line. Hope all is working better!

The newer manual contradicts itself. Don't go by the physical number setting. Go by the number of flashes.

 

[gfreek]

As I remember, Eric gave her the means to change the door latch and add washers to tighten it up. Wonder if that ever got done?

I think it was done, in another post..

 

[MommyOf4]

Yes, I did change the door latch and no they did not change the door gasket. They only changed the control box.

 

[saladdin]

Yes, I did change the door latch and no they did not change the door gasket. They only changed the control box.

That makes no sense to say the setting is wrong but instead of just turning the knob they replaced the control box.

Sounds like they have no idea what was wrong and was just throwing parts at it. That would concern me.

 

[Lousyweather]

That makes no sense to say the setting is wrong but instead of just turning the knob they replaced the control box.

Sounds like they have no idea what was wrong and was just throwing parts at it. That would concern me.

sure should, Sal......because if its simply not set correctly or being run properly, new parts aint gonna fix dat.

 

[MommyOf4]

You guys are making me nervous....

There's a lot of black ash again.

 

[Lousyweather]

You guys are making me nervous....

There's a lot of black ash again.

***hugs***

 

[gfreek]

At least the dealer is trying to get this right....Have you been burning the same pellets all along?? Black ash ??

 

[MommyOf4]

At least the dealer is trying to get this right....Have you been burning the same pellets all along?? Black ash ??

I switched from Lignetics to Hamers to Statesman.

 

[MommyOf4]

I already moved the actual placement of the washer on the door once, but should I add or remove the washer? If I remove the washer (so there is NO washer at all) would that help seal the gasket tighter?

SN: We changed the control box AND the thermostat and we are still having the same problem.

 

[gfreek]

OMG.... Hopefully others will chime in here. This is getting ridiculous.... you must a lot of patience .

 

[Rob Kav]

I am new to this forum and to pellet stoves in general.The guys who are regulars seem to be very knowledgable.I am only chiming in because I needed to tighten up the door seal in my Cumberland so for me the problem was solved by putting the washers on the front side of the door.If you think about it that will give the door less wiggle room so it has to grip harder on the inside.The guys here have talked about "the dollar bill test"and if you poke around here there are some good descriptions.This darn thing seems to have given you a lot of trouble.I hope this helps.Rob

 

[MommyOf4]

OMG.... Hopefully others will chime in here. This is getting ridiculous.... you must a lot of patience .

Having 4 kids and a husband, I have to have a lot of patience (LOL). It's not a life and death situation and we have heat in our home so nothing to get too upset about. It's just irritating since it's now been over 2 months.

 

[MommyOf4]

OK...I think I've officially hit my limit.

My dealer just said he spoke with Heatilator about our issue of our stove shutting down. Heatilator told him that the control setting may need to be adjusted to a higher setting because the fire in the pot is not getting high enough to satisfy the thermocoupler. The feed adjustment rod also needs to be completely open. I told him that it IS in fact the proper height. The problem we are having now is the stove shutting off randomly and not being able to hit the reset button to reset it and also the black sooting. The crazy feeding issue has been resolved.

I know it has to be the door gasket or the vacuum switch. Is what the dealer saying making sense? I told him that when he comes I want him to check the vacuum switch.

 

[saladdin]

OK...I think I've officially hit my limit.

My dealer just said he spoke with Heatilator about our issue of our stove shutting down. Heatilator told him that the control setting may need to be adjusted to a higher setting because the fire in the pot is not getting high enough to satisfy the thermocoupler. The feed adjustment rod also needs to be completely open. I told him that it IS in fact the proper height. The problem we are having now is the stove shutting off randomly and not being able to hit the reset button to reset it and also the black sooting. The crazy feeding issue has been resolved.

I know it has to be the door gasket or the vacuum switch. Is what the dealer saying making sense? I told him that when he comes I want him to check the vacuum switch.

You can do a search in the forums and find ways to bypass the vacuum switch to see if that changes things.
You could almost eliminate or confirm vacuum switch issues on your own in probably 30 minutes (after you plug it back in you'd have to wait the 18 minutes or so for it to power down).

You can remove the thermocoupler cover , clean it out and make sure the coupler is touching the end your self.

You can change the setting on the control box yourself. Takes 5 minutes.
Which control box do you have? How many flashes are there at start-up?

I believe the only other setting option is +10%. And you coul probably accomplish that by increasing the feeder instead. Change the feed to wide open to see if that changes things.

But I would bet my fake internet fortune on the door.

 

[MommyOf4]

You can do a search in the forums and find ways to bypass the vacuum switch to see if that changes things.
You could almost eliminate or confirm vacuum switch issues on your own in probably 30 minutes (after you plug it back in you'd have to wait the 18 minutes or so for it to power down).

You can remove the thermocoupler cover , clean it out and make sure the coupler is touching the end your self.

You can change the setting on the control box yourself. Takes 5 minutes.
Which control box do you have? How many flashes are there at start-up?

I believe the only other setting option is +10%. And you coul probably accomplish that by increasing the feeder instead. Change the feed to wide open to see if that changes things.

But I would bet my fake internet fortune on the door.

We've bypassed the vacuum and it worked fine. The thermocoupler has been cleaned out numerous times. Our dealer said that we would not be able to change the setting on the control box. We replaced our old one with the new model. It has since fixed the feeding frenzy that was going on. I believe there was 2 blinks. The feed wide open made the fire REALLY high.

 

[saladdin]

We've bypassed the vacuum and it worked fine. The thermocoupler has been cleaned out numerous times. Our dealer said that we would not be able to change the setting on the control box. We replaced our old one with the new model. It has since fixed the feeding frenzy that was going on. I believe there was 2 blinks. The feed wide open made the fire REALLY high.

The new manual contradicts itself. You should have 4 blinks for the cab50 per the manual but the graphic shows 2. Your dealer is lying if he is saying you can't physically change the settings. It can be done in 5 minutes. If he's saying he wants to be the one that does it then that's one thing but you can physically do it.

If he has no idea how to change the setting then return the stove and fire him. He's either lying or dumb.

 

[saladdin]

OK...I think I've officially hit my limit.

My dealer just said he spoke with Heatilator about our issue of our stove shutting down. Heatilator told him that the control setting may need to be adjusted to a higher setting because the fire in the pot is not getting high enough to satisfy the thermocoupler. The feed adjustment rod also needs to be completely open. I told him that it IS in fact the proper height. The problem we are having now is the stove shutting off randomly and not being able to hit the reset button to reset it and also the black sooting. The crazy feeding issue has been resolved.

I know it has to be the door gasket or the vacuum switch. Is what the dealer saying making sense? I told him that when he comes I want him to check the vacuum switch.

Do a search. I THINK you can bypass the other limit switches also, to test.

You are running out of parts to replace. If it was me, I would tell him to change out all 3 snap disks and the door rope. Or in the least, bring the 3 snap disks off a floor model so you can switch out to test. I wouldn't have any faith in his deductive abilities. Shotgun approach now.

Hopefully you paid with a credit card so, if necessary, you can start a charge back.

 

[MommyOf4]

I think we may have just fixed it! The stove started going out when they were putting the side panels back up and they realized that the wires on the side going up to the hopper were getting pinched. Has anyone ever had this happen?

Before they found the pinched wire they did some kind of pressure test and it read normal.