tinman1
Member
?? your saying that after 7 hours your stove box is super hot? and then you reload?then why reload if your getting the heat? I thought you reload when its losing the heat but theres a bed of coals enough to catch?
burn time
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put the question another way.after shutting down completetly, how long can you keep the secondaries lit before they go out and there are just glowing red ghostlogs left that you can poke a hole through?
tinman1
Member
I'm having the same issue! I just got this osburn insert and trying to figure this whole burning thing ,reading what others say there getting on burn there times,I get exactly what you claim like 2 hours of it.The stove does give out good heat but not 7,8,9 hours! ,I do have 16 ft cathedral ceilings with very old insulation,drafty windows but what does that have to do with how with long the wood burns? with those issues I could see it not heating the home well . SOMEONE PLEASE CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG ON THAT ASSUMPTION. Im thinking that I just don't understand these varibles, and just need time I guess with trying different things and reading these post. when you figure this thing out please let me know. Like wise here
Cockshutt
Member
At night. Before I go to sleep. The stove is hot. I reload. I close the draft. I go to bed for 7hrs. I wake up. I open the draft reload. Simple.
SummerTyme
New Member
We get that you can load up and go to bed for a full night and then have coals in the morning to reload with, but what are your house temperatures in the morning in the winter when you wake up? Personally, I don't like waking up to a cold house so even though I will have coals in the morning that will ignite a new fire, I prefer to reload during the night before the house gets too cold. I just wish it didn't take so long for the reload to get up to temps, so I can shut down the draft to low. I didn't have that issue with my old stove - all I had to do was through in some logs and go back to bed.
right now i'm at 2 hours into a full load of locust and the secondaries are barely burning. is that normal?
The bottom line is, you go by what the manufacture puts in there literature for your first stove. Then, a couple years later you have a better understanding of what you need and will be very happy with your second stove.
The bottom line is, you go by what the manufacture puts in there literature for your first stove. Then, a couple years later you have a better understanding of what you need and will be very happy with your second stove.
not sayin im unhappy, just curious about the long burn times, how they're defined and if i can do better
My post was joking but still true for many including myself.
You have a good size stove and should get better burn times than you describe.
In reference to your above post. If you can look at the chimney and there is no or very little smoke then you are fine.
How's the burn coming along now?
it's about like it was last couple years, 2 1/2 hours and dim flame, giant box o coals. cooling coming. thought it was normal until i started reading about these ridiculous burn time. when it got real cold last year i would dig out most of the coals and dump them on the driveway, then start all over. i dont pay much for wood so i dont care about wasting btu's. just wondering if there was some magic mojo i don't possess that keeps these fires burning longer. i guess if you have a coal that would light a match it should be included in burn time. i though burn time meant BURNING time.
also, on the days it wasn't too cold, when i had a giant box of coals, i'd just open the door and open the air all the way then go to work or shopping. when i got home the coals would be down to a reasonable level.
If it only went by flames my Blaze King burn time would have been under an hour, but 12 hours later it was still throwing heat. If the stove isn't keeping up heating your house in the coaling stage your stove is either undersized or your house needs insulation.
Chuck the Canuck
Feeling the Heat
Well I've been experimenting the last little while with this idea that as a newbie (I refer exclusively to myself here) one can start off the stove too fast, letting it get way too hot with the air wide open, getting it all fired up into amazing blazing glory and then shutting it down to watch the secondaries blazing in full technicolor glory. I would do this (previously) and then sit and fret because the stove started getting too hot heading towards 800+ and then I would start blowing fans on the stove top and wondering if I was going to have to open the door to slow down and cool off the "amazing secondaries."
The flip side to all of this is that running the stove too hot "up front" burns through the wood super fast and decreases burn times...... So lately I've been turning the air down step wise from a very early (for me) point, starting at around 300-350, but really once the flames are vigorous and starting to become frantic looking. My goal is to keep the main flames on the wood low and lazy while I progressively shut down the primary air; I've noticed that I don't necessarily see secondaries kicking off very early, but they do appear eventually when I've got the air almost completely shut down. Likewise, I don't see the stove top temperature climbing into the danger zone, north of 750, so much anymore, but then I'm pretty happy running between 550-650.
Unfortunately I can't comment of the effect on burn times, because I was running a smaller stove last winter and I've since upgraded to the magnificent Drolet Austral. But I'm pretty confidant that I'm zeroing in on some substantial burn times by running my stove this new way. It's not the last word on burn times by any means, but I'd say how you run your stove is a significant variable in the science of burn time efficiency.
Cheers,
The flip side to all of this is that running the stove too hot "up front" burns through the wood super fast and decreases burn times...... So lately I've been turning the air down step wise from a very early (for me) point, starting at around 300-350, but really once the flames are vigorous and starting to become frantic looking. My goal is to keep the main flames on the wood low and lazy while I progressively shut down the primary air; I've noticed that I don't necessarily see secondaries kicking off very early, but they do appear eventually when I've got the air almost completely shut down. Likewise, I don't see the stove top temperature climbing into the danger zone, north of 750, so much anymore, but then I'm pretty happy running between 550-650.
Unfortunately I can't comment of the effect on burn times, because I was running a smaller stove last winter and I've since upgraded to the magnificent Drolet Austral. But I'm pretty confidant that I'm zeroing in on some substantial burn times by running my stove this new way. It's not the last word on burn times by any means, but I'd say how you run your stove is a significant variable in the science of burn time efficiency.
Cheers,
Cockshutt
Member
esw says to run the stove wide open for 15-20 minutes then shut it down. in 20 minutes it gets pretty blazing
Chuck the Canuck
Feeling the Heat
Yeah, I'd say that at the 10 minute mark I've shut the primary air down from full to 1/2 in 1 step (with the stovetop around 350 at that point), and within 5 minutes of that I'm know I'm gonna shut it down at least another 25% if I want to keep nice lazy flames going in the box...... the last 25% of shutting down the air is the tricky part for me; I seem to have to do this in very tiny increments so that I don't kill the nice lazy flame entirely (I usually have nice floating secondaries shooting off by this time)... so I guess that last 25% reduction stretch lasts approx 15 or 20 minutes to the final shutdown point.
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Speed trap
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NJ_Burner08002
Member
From most manufacturers point of view it's going to be from when you light the match till the time the last coal goes out.
Secondaries will stop after the wood offgasses which will last 2-3 hours depending on the size of the stove.
NJ_Burner08002
Member
guess that's the answer. mine must be performing ok,then. on the bad days i'll continue to shovel out the coals and reload except at night. wasted wood btus are a lot cheaper than oil furnace btus.
mark cline
Minister of Fire
So " keeps your house warm time" = burn time...................End of argument
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Chuck the Canuck
Feeling the Heat
I've read here that some people will throw a couple of small softwood splits on top of their coals and run the stove with the air wide open, in order to burn down the coals faster before reloading. Also gets a few more BTU's pumpin out into the house instead of tossing them....
I used to either throw a couple bio bricks or a couple splits of pine
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