Broken in, and first “full temp” fire. This stove seems to want to cruise along at 650-700 or so…yikes..

[johnnyvirgil]

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Great placement in the open! I bet that heats the room nicely!

How tall is the chimney?

 

[Itslay90]

I thought, 700 is pushing the stove ?

 

[johnnyvirgil]

Great placement in the open! I bet that heats the room nicely!

How tall is the chimney?

it extends down to a clean out in the basement, but I’d guess from the T where the stovepipe joins there’s about 8 feet inside and another 4 feet on the roof. And so far other than ripping through wood it’s a nice chill chaser on this 19 degree morning. Some of the hot burn might be due to using extremely dry kiln dried hardwood. But it’s burning clean. No smoke at ll coming out of the chimney, despite it going from 6” to 8”

 

[johnnyvirgil]

I thought, 700 is pushing the stove ?

Yeah that’s my concern. This 602v2 seems to run hot. But other than “ Not on the cooktop” I’m not entirely sure where to put the thermometer for the most accurate reading.

 

[Woody Stover]

hot burn might be due to using extremely dry kiln dried hardwood

Super-dry wood will burn faster, and smaller wood will too. Bigger splits will slow down the burn some. That said, I don't think 700 is a problem for that stove. That might be about as high as you want it to go, though. Does the manual specify a max temp?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

It’s cast iron, so, I’d consider 700 to be the point where you have a little discomfort.

It could very well be the wood being too dry.

It might be something to pay attention to when it’s colder.

 

[johnnyvirgil]

Super-dry wood will burn faster, and smaller wood will too. Bigger splits will slow down the burn some. That said, I don't think 700 is a problem for that stove. That might be about as high as you want it to go, though. Does the manual specify a max temp?

Not that I could see. It just says don’t over fire. “If any part of the stove glows red, you are over firing.” No kidding.

 

[StoveInNH]

Looks great. Definitely makes the room look cozy! Well done.

 

[D. Hermit]

700 is hot for this stove. Id use bigger splits and try to tame it down a little bit. It will take time to learn the stove, but crusin at the 450-600 degree mark is the happy place for a 602.

When you get to those very hot temps for long periods, it will eventually burn up the internal pieces.

 

[Woody Stover]

“If any part of the stove glows red, you are over firing.” No kidding.

😏 That would happen around 900. I think a lot of the manuals these days don't specify an actual temp, they just say something like what you read. Maybe @begreen can shed some light, so to speak...reddish-orange light. 😆

 

[johnnyvirgil]

700 is hot for this stove. Id use bigger splits and try to tame it down a little bit. It will take time to learn the stove, but crusin at the 450-600 degree mark is the happy place for a 602.

When you get to those very hot temps for long periods, it will eventually burn up the internal pieces.

I noticed if I put the thermometer back by the stovepipe it hangs out at about 500. Originally I had it to the left and a little behind the cook plate.

 

[begreen]

It looks great. Thanks for the update. 700º STT is ok, but it's better to shoot for a stovetop temp of around 650º. Try loading thicker splits and closing down the air sooner. With dry wood, it's possible to run it with the air almost or all the way closed.

How tall is the chimney above the thimble?

 

[Woody Stover]

it extends down to a clean out in the basement, but I’d guess from the T where the stovepipe joins there’s about 8 feet inside and another 4 feet on the roof. And so far other than ripping through wood it’s a nice chill chaser on this 19 degree morning. Some of the hot burn might be due to using extremely dry kiln dried hardwood. But it’s burning clean. No smoke at ll coming out of the chimney, despite it going from 6” to 8”

It looks great. Thanks for the update. 700º STT is ok, but it's better to shoot for a stovetop temp of around 650º. Try loading thicker splits and closing down the air sooner. With dry wood, it's possible to run it with the air almost or all the way closed.

How tall is the chimney above the thimble?

Not tall. Another reason to go with a PE stove..they breathe well on a short stack.

 

[bigealta]

My friends have been burning an original 602 for over 20 years. They do go thru interior burn plates. I made them replacement side plates out of 1/4" plate steel years ago. The stock side burn shield plates looked like crushed soda cans.

 

[johnnyvirgil]

Not tall. Another reason to go with a PE stove..they breathe well on a short stack.

it’s not crazy tall but it covers two stories from the stove counting the double wall stove pipe. So far no issues with th draft. Seems like a little too much but that could be the wood. What’s a PE stove?

 

[johnnyvirgil]

It looks great. Thanks for the update. 700º STT is ok, but it's better to shoot for a stovetop temp of around 650º. Try loading thicker splits and closing down the air sooner. With dry wood, it's possible to run it with the air almost or all the way closed.

How tall is the chimney above the thimble?

Outside probably 4’? The rest of the chimney is inside a chase in the house. I am running it all the way closed, but it still seems pretty open.

 

[joop]

check to see if it's adjustable.my dovre burnt through wood pretty fast too.i thought it was normal then realized the air shutoff was loose ,tightened it up voila secondaries lit up burned nice and slow.

 

[Woody Stover]

it extends down to a clean out in the basement, but I’d guess from the T where the stovepipe joins there’s about 8 feet inside and another 4 feet on the roof.

it’s not crazy tall but it covers two stories from the stove...

What’s a PE stove?

Oops, the PE reply was for a different thread, sorry!
Hey, wait a minute...is it two stories or 12ft?? Top of stove to top of chimney..

 

[GrumpyDad]

Looks good, Id trip on that raised hearth personally though a dozen times a month. Just something I do when Im walking around the house.
If you are turned all the way down and getting those temps Id consider the advice some have given here.
I can tell you that on my cook plate my temps get up higher fast, they eventually equalize between the cook area and the main body of the stove top. I really dont trust STT to tell me how well my stove is heating until my cast iron has warmed up for at least 3 hours. It's good to make sure you dont overheat the top but heck it could show 600 STT and the sides still be cool enough to hold your hand against. Maybe get a laser thermometer or look inside for where the solid body is at and put the thermometer there.

Someone mentioned a damper to control the draft, maybe that would help. The other idea given was larger wood. That will temper things down too.
You could try just adding a couple of splits at a time, or maybe even just one at a time to really tamp it down.

The only issue I have with using larger wood is that it eventually becomes smaller and creates alot of chunky coals. When my stove gets to this point it raises in temp, it doesnt go lower. At least until those coals start burning themselves out AND not as much new coals are being created.

 

[johnnyvirgil]

Oops, the PE reply was for a different thread, sorry!
Hey, wait a minute...is it two stories or 12ft?? Top of stove to top of chimney..

Well...the top of stove to chimney is about 6.5 feet (of double walled DST) then the chimney goes through the 2nd floor, through about 4 feet of the second story wall, then out the roof (it's a cape style with slanted ceilings on the second floor and there is about 4 or 5 feet sticking out of the roof. I can't tell exactly until spring when I can get on the roof to measure.

 

[johnnyvirgil]

Looks good, Id trip on that raised hearth personally though a dozen times a month. Just something I do when Im walking around the house.
If you are turned all the way down and getting those temps Id consider the advice some have given here.
I can tell you that on my cook plate my temps get up higher fast, they eventually equalize between the cook area and the main body of the stove top. I really dont trust STT to tell me how well my stove is heating until my cast iron has warmed up for at least 3 hours. It's good to make sure you dont overheat the top but heck it could show 600 STT and the sides still be cool enough to hold your hand against. Maybe get a laser thermometer or look inside for where the solid body is at and put the thermometer there.

Someone mentioned a damper to control the draft, maybe that would help. The other idea given was larger wood. That will temper things down too.
You could try just adding a couple of splits at a time, or maybe even just one at a time to really tamp it down.

The only issue I have with using larger wood is that it eventually becomes smaller and creates alot of chunky coals. When my stove gets to this point it raises in temp, it doesnt go lower. At least until those coals start burning themselves out AND not as much new coals are being created.

I know, I second-guessed my wife's request to use left over floor tile to make it match, but in the end, did what she wanted. Maybe I'll add some blinking LED light strips. I actually purchased a damper but I'd have to get a shorter extendable straight run for it to fit. I did find out it runs just about perfect with a piece of tin foil over the front air intake, so that leads me to believe I'm falling victim to the 2020 EPA "burn hot and burn clean" certification. I may do the door mod I've seen to get it to close a little more. I'm going to try some regular old wood from the wood pile this weekend if it's cool enough and see how that does. I wasn't really loading it up either -- just two pieces at a time. But it was bagged wood from the supermarket and so dry you could almost light it with a match.

 

[GrumpyDad]

I know, I second-guessed my wife's request to use left over floor tile to make it match, but in the end, did what she wanted. Maybe I'll add some blinking LED light strips. I actually purchased a damper but I'd have to get a shorter extendable straight run for it to fit. I did find out it runs just about perfect with a piece of tin foil over the front air intake, so that leads me to believe I'm falling victim to the 2020 EPA "burn hot and burn clean" certification. I may do the door mod I've seen to get it to close a little more. I'm going to try some regular old wood from the wood pile this weekend if it's cool enough and see how that does. I wasn't really loading it up either -- just two pieces at a time. But it was bagged wood from the supermarket and so dry you could almost light it with a match.

Yes that supermarket stuff is super dry usually.
Btw not saying you are doing this but when you mentioned the wife I thought of our decision to get the stove we have today. Honestly I'd probably have a drolet if the wife didn't see it then the VC stoves.
I like to deal with perspective vendors and pressure them for more info than they usually share or a better price, and preface with my wife...
My wife said your price sucks she thinks we should buy elsewhere.
My wife tried to fix this and couldn't put it back together...
My wife wants a wants to know if we can get that table instead...

 

[SpaceBus]

700 is fine for an hour or two, even 800 at the peak of the burn is fine. When you have prolonged periods of 700+, then you can have issues.

 

[begreen]

Well...the top of stove to chimney is about 6.5 feet (of double walled DST) then the chimney goes through the 2nd floor, through about 4 feet of the second story wall, then out the roof (it's a cape style with slanted ceilings on the second floor and there is about 4 or 5 feet sticking out of the roof. I can't tell exactly until spring when I can get on the roof to measure.

It may need a key damper in the stove pipe to tame down the draft with that tall chimney. This stove breathes fairly easily.