Breckwell auger motor problem

[SmokeyTheBear]

I learned the hard way to unplug my stove during the summer months. We can get some pretty wicked thunderstorms here in NY and to lose power or get power surges is very common.

I'm going to try my hand at replacing a Triac. Might as well spend $7 on some parts than $270 on a new board

Well good luck and let us know how it works out. Power surges can do some strange things to electronics. I hope it is just the triacs.

 

[Don2222]

Hii Don,

The stove has Brass Trim. The manufacture date is July 1996. Model # P-2000FS Serial # WH98-11164. It is a digital control panel.

I am trying to figure out how to post a pix. I have cropped the pix down and it lists it as an attachment but it doesn't appear to be working.

Thanks for your help.

Hi Brian
Mine has the Brass Trim too! My Stove is MFD July 1996 Serial # WH98-111406 ! ! ! Wow they are almost twins! We can fix them up together!
I sent you a Conversation on how to scale and post a pic.

The first thing I am doing is a complete paint job with Stove Bright Satin Black Spray Paint on the outside and the Very High Temp FlameProof flat black header paint from the auto parts store on the inside fire box. To modernize it, you can get a Nickel Door and Nickel Cowel Rods. I can get them. The door is very pricey about $800. What I am doing is painting the door Black. 1st coat with the FlameProof Flat Black as a primer and the top coat with Stove Bright Satin Black. Then I can get 2 sets of cowl rods for $60 Total. The rods are attached with a dab of RTV on the ends.

When done it will be in showroom condition! The fire is awsome too when you get it going! It does crank out heat!

 

[Brian Couse]

 

[Brian Couse]

Link Removed

 

[Don2222]

Hi Brian

Looks like your control panel is a 4 RPM panel with a 4 RPM auger motor combo. If you update the panel, maybe you could go with the latest 1 rpm panel and change the auger motor. I am really not sure you can do that but Breckwell Support would know.

However it would be cheaper if the Auger Motor works well to go with a new 4 RPM panel which I can get.

 

[Brian Couse]

Good morning Don,

Yes, it is the 4 RPM control panel. It's part # is A-E 301

I tested the auger motor and it works perfectly so all I would need is the control panel.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

What is that glob that appears to be stuck to the bottom triacs heat sink?

 

[Brian Couse]

It appears to be some kind of wax. Each Triac is labelled D2, D3,D4, and D5. The glob is on Triac D1. The power line to the auger motor traces from the connector to Triac D4. I ordered two new Triacs and they should be here in a few days

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I wonder when folks will learn that you don't block/gum up what is a heat sink. It also looks like in other places on the board that some remedial work was done, perhaps to re-flow solder because of a cold joint.

 

[Brian Couse]

Well, I have two Triacs on their way and a guy who is experienced in circuit board work/repair who will do the work. It's worth a shot. Do you recommend changing out the Triac with the wax on it as we'll as #4?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

No I was wondering what that glob was. There shouldn't be more than a 3 amp draw on any one of those triacs anyway.

See what your guy has to say about the board, etc...

 

[MountainSean]

Hi Brian

Looks like your control panel is a 4 RPM panel with a 4 RPM auger motor combo. If you update the panel, maybe you could go with the latest 1 rpm panel and change the auger motor. I am really not sure you can do that but Breckwell Support would know.

However it would be cheaper if the Auger Motor works well to go with a new 4 RPM panel which I can get.

If you did that wouldn't you also need to change out to the 1 RPM auger shaft? If not it wouldn't be feeding enough pellets because the flights are angled differently.
Which reminds me, we really need to get a pic of the 4 RPM shaft up for comparison.

 

[Brian Couse]

I had the Triac replaced. It still doesn't work.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

You still getting that 87 volts on the auger motor ?

And did your guy have anything to say about the condition of that board ?

 

[Brian Couse]

Yes. Still the same voltage at the motor under load. No comment on the condition of the board. Another friend of mine has the board right now and will go over it with a fine tooth comb. I should have it back Tues or Wed.

 

[sante fe]

Hey Brian, Poughkeepsie here also,Your right this summer we got lit up pretty bad with the electrical storms,
Did you say you check the snap disc on your stove to rule that out?

 

[Brian Couse]

Yes, I checked everything. High limit, POF, vacuum switch, and jammed auger. Everything is leading me back to the circuit board

 

[sante fe]

Sounds like you found your failure mechanism, Good job on the trouble shooting.Where do you get your pellets in poktown

 

[jeffs205]

Not sure if this helps at all but from the picture it looks like that board is most likely not original (your stove is a '96 and one of the components has a date of dec. 2000).

 

[Brian Couse]

Unfortunately, we're limited to Lowes, Home Depot, or Tractor Supply. I'm trying the North American pellets while a friend tries the Green Supreme.

I'm looking for a quality pellet so if you have any ideas please let me know.