Blower on American harvest 6039 keeps running

[ARC]

Ok. We got the new circuit board...
But it is different from the old one.

They use one board for many stoves, the big thing is the programing is different for each stove. That is why you give them stove information when ordering. So should be right board. Did you have a thermostat hooked up to the stove before, if not make sure you transfer your thermostat jumper from old board to new my new one did not have jumper. The gold/copper looking wire circled in picture.

I am not surprised that you found black marks on the old board it was not working correctly and was probably getting hot.

 

[ARC]

is there something that connect to the achot and accom on your old board?

Nothing should have been attached, the pressure switch and optional thermostat attach on side of board where labeled everything else runs through the molex plug

 

[Naturegirl81666]

Hey y'all...hope the weather is being good to y'all..
Well on our 6039...
It was not the computer board..
So we replaced the switches..
Then ended up buying a new room blower fan..
So stove is up and running..
I know its been colder than normal this year hear in Southwest Michigan..
But the stove just don't seem to be keeping our place as warm..
Yes it is clean...inside and out.
Gave everything a good cleaning when we had the sides off..and i vaccum it out once a week..
We use wood pellets..Old man even tried a couple bags of cherry pits to see if that would make a difference...
Just curious if its the cold weather..or something else.

 

[ARC]

Just curious if its the cold weather

Yes night time temps have been cold. In Northern New York it has been cold at night 5 days of -14F last week and -5 F last night and forecast colder for rest of this week.

Try a little whole kernel corn (not cracked) I get mine from local framer but you can buy 50 lb bag for testing at most local farm stores. Do not use deer feed corn as some of it is coated. Try a 50/50 mixture you will have to give it a little more air to burn right. With straight pellets my house starts losing heat at 10 degrees F. With a 40/60 corn/pellet mix house will start to lose heat at -10 F. You can really feel the difference when you hold your hand in front of stove.

 

[Naturegirl81666]

Thanks we are going to try it..
What is the settings on your control board...when you use the mixture of corn and pellets..
Ours is on 3,9,2,1... Now

 

[SidecarFlip]

I have my 6039 4 button custom programmed for corn which is what I run. I run everything in auto (t'stat mode) Mine is HR7, RF9, Draft fan 'Adj' and Aux (stirrer) 1. On HR 7, my PPH feed is set to 5.5 pounds. Any higher and it will go into overheat shutdown. It's on a Remote T'stat in the kitchen. Always run on remote and always run the draft fan on auto with the slide damper closed and outside air for the underfire.

I never run in manual mode, always remote/auto. I have a back up spare 4 button in the shop btw.

Mine runs so hot I can light a cigarette on the view glass, no problem.

Have not worn out a stirrer in 4 years either. I did replace the stirrer rod bushing 2 years ago with one I machined. The stock one is way too wimpy, it cracks. I have 2 pots. One is soaking in a bucket of water while the other is in service. When I clean the stove, I take the soaker, clean it with a putty knife to remove all the hard carbon, scotchbrite it and put it in and the one that was in, goes in the water. My pot is modified. I enlarged all the draft holes to 1/8" from the backside to the bottom center and reversed the stirrer rod rotation so the sitirrer rod rotates opposite of the stock rotation which cause the fuel bed to turn over better and keeps the glass cleaner.

20+ years now with minimal upkeep. I'm very happy with it.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Cherry pits aren't worth a fiddlers dam. leave them in Petosky...lol Better off with cheapo pellets.

 

[ARC]

Ours is on 3,9,2,1... Now

Like SidecarFlip my draft setting has been adjusted my Minimum from 230 to 245 That changes the draft slightly on all heat range settings. At beginning and end of burn season I burn straight pellets and my settings are 5AAA. When it gets cold I go to a 40/60 corn pellet mix and my settings go to 59AA. When the temps really drop I will go to Heat Range 6, 69AA at that setting you can not stand in front of stove for very long. The couple of times I turned stove to Heat Range 7 the front gets really hot makes me to nervous to leave it unmonitored.

Cherry pits aren't worth a fiddlers dam

I have burnt just about anything you can stick in this stove and have it feed though the auger. Cherry pits were no better heating then pellets, more ash, more $$$, less in the bag and the sound of them going through auger drove wife crazy (crazier).

 

[Naturegirl81666]

@ARC ....
So i can go up with my HR...maybe to 5
..it is on 3 now
And leave the rest at 9,2,1...
We are just using wood pellets now..

 

[ARC]

So i can go up with my HR...maybe to 5
..it is on 3 now
And leave the rest at 9,2,1...

If your Heat Ranges go from 1 to 9 then yes you can go to 5. (Some 6039 only go from heat range 1 to 5 if yours is one of those then 5 will over heat and shut down stove after a while.

Most likely you will have to go to something like 5,9,4,1 raising the draft from 2 to 4. You can try to keep it on draft 2 if the fire pot starts overfilling or the flame looks weak then up draft to 3 most stoves run better with draft at least one number below the heat range or on A (Auto draft). Depends some on pellet quality and venting too.

 

[SidecarFlip]

If you have the outside air kit installed (which I recommend for all stoves anyway, any make, and year, keep the draft shutter (below the burnpot closed or just slightly open but not too much or the flame will be a blowtorch which isn't good for the stove or your heat output. You want an active flame (like a campfire) not a blowtorch and the blowtorch flame will eat up the stirrer rod (if you have one, I do).

The outside air kit feeds combustion air directly to the bottom of the firepot, exactly where it needs to be.

I run a custom program on mine and I believe ARC does as well but I suggest (strongly) that you make sure the control board is set to factory settings and go from there. Custom programming the fuel and draft rates is best left to down the road experience.

I suggest you look in the WIKI at the top of the page under USSC 6039-41 stoves. There you will find all you need to know about resetting the board to factory parameters, cleaning the unit and other important stuff and I do find posting it to be tedious and unnecessary when you can scroll to the top of the page and get ALL the info you need.

In factory parameters, you can run at maximum heat range settings. The stove is programmed to do that but in custom programming, it's not.

Go read the WIKI. it will address all of your questions and save my typing fingers....lol

 

[SidecarFlip]

Gave everything a good cleaning when we had the sides off..and i vaccum it out once a week..

First off, no reason to take the sides off but once a year. I take mine off every spring when I remove ALL the components (convection fan, draft fan, auger drive motor and stirrer motor and clean them and lubricate the bearings (dry bearings are the number one cause of components failure on ANY stove), second is a buildup of lint and crap in the convection blower.

People on here seem to have a rather limited view of cleaning a unit. To me clean is removing the burn pot and stirrer, soaking it in warm water and removing all the baked on hard carbon (warm water loosens it so it basically flakes off). I run 2 pots, one in the unit and one soaking and 2 stirrer rods as well so there is always clean and carbon free parts to put back in after I clean out the fly ash.

To me, a regular cleaning involves removing the backer board, pulling the rear wall plugs, opening the ash dumps and sweeping the ash into the ash pan then taking a shop vac with a crevice tool and sticking it into the openings to the left and right of the back wall (after removing the covers and taking a bottle brush and sweeping it back and forth behind the wall accessing the passage through the openings and allowing the vacuum to suck out the fly ash. I take a small paintbrush and get behind the baffle plates on each side of the firebox and knock the ash down into the firebox floor. finally I take the crevice tool and stick it into the round hole on the right side of the back wall and into the exhaust plenum and suck that out too, replace all the covers, fake brick back wall, dump the ash pan and call it good. Whole ting taks about 15 minutes tops

Every week I pull the cover on the clean out tee (mine is outside) and dump the fly ash and I'll bang on the vent pipe with a wood stick to dislodge and fly ash inside. Every 2 months the venting gets sucked out with a leaf blower with the stove door open and all the cover plates removed and the stove OFF. End of season (spring) every components comes out of the stove except the control board and the switches (snap discs and vacuum switch), everything gets cleaned and oiled, the draft fan is pulled, plenum vacuumed and the venting is sucked out. Then when it's all clean and tidy inside and out, I fog the inside with Stabil fogging oil, replaced all the cleaned and oiled components, close the door and it's good to go next fall.

Additionally, all my outside venting comes apart and I pressure wash the interior with purple ZEP and all the venting gets stored in the shop. I cover the venting pipe from the stove through the wall thimble with a ziplock bag and duct tape to keep bugs out and call it good until next fall.

Timely maintenance is EVERYTHING. No stove is plug and play, well they are for a time, until they get plugged up or the drive motor bearings dry out and then you get to replace stuff. me, I'd rather maintain it. Much cheaper in the long run. I have over 20 years on mine with really no issues other than issues I caused myself, by me being stupid.

 

[Naturegirl81666]

If your Heat Ranges go from 1 to 9 then yes you can go to 5. (Some 6039 only go from heat range 1 to 5 if yours is one of those then 5 will over heat and shut down stove after a while.

Most likely you will have to go to something like 5,9,4,1 raising the draft from 2 to 4. You can try to keep it on draft 2 if the fire pot starts overfilling or the flame looks weak then up draft to 3 most stoves run better with draft at least one number below the heat range or on A (Auto draft). Depends some on pellet quality and venting too.

Thanks... ARC..
The HR goes to 9...
We've been running it all day at 5,9,4,1. It has made a big difference.
New at the pellet stove..and we bought it used..So appreciate the help.
Southwest Michigan here.
We have Storm Shirley moving in..
Y'all be safe and stay warm

 

[SidecarFlip]

I presume you have the 4 button board set to remote thermostat (jumper removed from the board terminals. If you do and are on a remote T'stat, try setting the draft fan to 'A'. That will allow the draft fan speed to modulate with the heat range setting. Where I run mine all the time now.

Do keep in mind that I run a custom program for corn and have for years.

If you are on manual (not remote T'stat) you have to set the draft fan speed as the board won't set it automatically.

I highly recommend a remote T'stat. Allows the board much more freedom to set the parameters. On remote T'stats, you want a millivolt T'stat. Cheaper the better. I use a box store Honewell digital non programable digital one. Think it cost 12 bucks.

My thermostat is in an adjacent room away from the stove. Right next to the programmable one that controls the condensing furnace in the basement. Have my RH gauge there as well. I like to keep my RH as close to 50% as possible. Needless to say, this time of year we go through a lot of bottled water. Our well water is death on a humidifier, too many dissolved minerals.

The higher the RH is, the warmer you feel. Dry warm air always feel cold.

The high limit snap disk on the left side of the firebox above the vacuum switch controls the cutout for over temp btw.