Blazeking SC30 Q about bypass handle

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laura bv

Member
Oct 23, 2013
80
United States
All has been well for 5 years, except this week:
The bypass handle is getting very hard to maneuver. It almost feels like it could be permanently stuck and even though I'm afraid I might break something, I am forcing the bypass handle when closing, but more so when opening.

There is nothing in the manual that helps me to figure out if this is a dangerous issue or not.

I've been trying to burn high more frequently and for longer (the recommended 30 minutes) in case it's a creosote buildup issue.

I was planning to get the whole stove and converter looked at over the summer. But wondering if this is something that needs attending to sooner as a safety issue. (realize if I do break something the stove will be unusable).
 
All has been well for 5 years, except this week:
The bypass handle is getting very hard to maneuver. It almost feels like it could be permanently stuck and even though I'm afraid I might break something, I am forcing the bypass handle when closing, but more so when opening.

There is nothing in the manual that helps me to figure out if this is a dangerous issue or not.

I've been trying to burn high more frequently and for longer (the recommended 30 minutes) in case it's a creosote buildup issue.

I was planning to get the whole stove and converter looked at over the summer. But wondering if this is something that needs attending to sooner as a safety issue. (realize if I do break something the stove will be unusable).
Get it looked at now. Problems with blazekings like this are uncommon but they do happen and if not addressed it can lead to more problems
 
If it operates freely, but is hard to close, then likely there’s debris laying around the damper.
If it’s difficult to operate in either direction then it needs lubricated. You could possibly be having water make its way down the flue causing rust. Does the chimney have a cap?
 
Yes it is probably nothing serious at all. But if not addressed it could cause issues.
 
The only issue I’ve ever seen with a bypass on a BK was a bad weld on the bypass ramp. On earlier princess models the bypass plate wasn’t removable, it’s since been resolved from what I understand. Blaze King replaced the stove with no cost to the customer. The stove was about 3 years old at that point. Of course it could have been welded on site, but BK stepped up on this one.
 
The only issue I’ve ever seen with a bypass on a BK was a bad weld on the bypass ramp. On earlier princess models the bypass plate wasn’t removable, it’s since been resolved from what I understand. Blaze King replaced the stove with no cost to the customer. The stove was about 3 years old at that point. Of course it could have been welded on site, but BK stepped up on this one.
I have never seen any issues other than a little crap in the way. But i dont work on a ton of them.
 
Probably time to lubricate the interface between the lifting rod and bypass door.
 
Lube time. Likely your only issue. Easy peasy after removing your connector pipe. Vacuum around bypass plate that is now easily seen/cleaned. As mentioned lube (anti seize) the under side of the bypass ramp where the rod has a friction fit so to speak. Mine got the same way early in the season. Took about ten minutes to remedy. Been like butter since.

BK manual .Page 39. Lower right corner of the page has a pic and description of this procedure. Under maintenance. Not sure if your manual and mine are the exact same but I would guess they all show this.