Blaze King Princess

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Hello everyone, thank you for all of the amazing information I was able to glean from this website over the years. I’ve always just looked in and researched stuff without posting. I now have a question that I’d really appreciate opinions on.

I’m in the process of building a 40x60 shop. It will have a 16ft ceiling and will be fully insulated and finished.

I will have natural gas in floor heat but really like wood heat. I want a stove that can heat that space without the gas needing to kick in.

The question: I have a super lightly used Blaze King Princess available to purchase but the guy wants $3200. Or I was considering ordering a new J.A.ROBY INC Ultimate Wood Stove. On paper the J.A. is better for throwing heat but from my research on here the Blaze King might be better unit overall.

If you had the decision what would you go for? Or would you throw another 3k at it and buy a new Blaze King 40 for that large space. I’m in Canada and deal with fairly brutal winters.

Thank you for any opinions on this as I’m stuck and need to pull the trigger right away on something.
Hope I can help.

I bought a BK Princess and had it installed Sept 2022. I was told it would heat my house no problem. My home is 1640 sq ft on the main floor and the same for my finished basement.

The brochure says is can heat up to 30 hours on one load but I can’t get that stove to run on the lowest it can without going out for more then 10 hours in 10C weather.
Plus, if I want to have my home at 22C, I have to burn it at 600F for 24 hours before I can lower it to 400F and maintain temperature.

Mine is installed in the basement figuring hot air rises and everything.
I originally wanted to pay the extra money to get the biggest one, but I was talked out of it and assured the princess would keep my house toasty. Wish I had that one now.

So I’d put the extra money in unless you have a good deal on 2 stoves. One for each end.
 
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Hope I can help.

I bought a BK Princess and had it installed Sept 2022. I was told it would heat my house no problem. My home is 1640 sq ft on the main floor and the same for my finished basement.

The brochure says is can heat up to 30 hours on one load but I can’t get that stove to run on the lowest it can without going out for more then 10 hours in 10C weather.
Plus, if I want to have my home at 22C, I have to burn it at 600F for 24 hours before I can lower it to 400F and maintain temperature.

Mine is installed in the basement figuring hot air rises and everything.
I originally wanted to pay the extra money to get the biggest one, but I was talked out of it and assured the princess would keep my house toasty. Wish I had that one now.

So I’d put the extra money in unless you have a good deal on 2 stoves. One for each end.
Is your basement insulated?
 
Your home is 3,280 square ft, correct? Brochure specs below including average heating hours. Your home is 780 sq. ft . larger than the top end in the brochure. Obviously you have a nice home that is on the large size. Do you have a furnace that you can put in "Fan" position to help move heat around the home? Can you post two picture of your "full" fuel load for us to see? One straight on with door open and the other a downward view of the load with the door open?

BKVP

[Hearth.com] Blaze King Princess
 
I bought a BK Princess and had it installed Sept 2022. I was told it would heat my house no problem. My home is 1640 sq ft on the main floor and the same for my finished basement.
So, 2x 1640 = 3280 sq.ft.? There are many web sites which will help you estimate your heat load, although simply looking at your traditional heating fuel costs / usage is probably more accurate. A Princess holds 500k - 700k BTU of fuel, depending on species, and allows you to dish that out over a range of perhaps 6 to 30 hours, if your setup is working properly.

It seems likely that 3200 sq.ft. in Ontario probably creates a heat load requiring more than the ~20k BTU/hr you're going to get from 3 cubic feet of wood dialed down to a 30 hour burn time. I'd expect finding the dial setting that corresponds to a 12 hour reload cycle would work much better.

The brochure says is can heat up to 30 hours on one load but I can’t get that stove to run on the lowest it can without going out for more then 10 hours in 10C weather.
Many members of this forum are repeatedly hitting the advertised burn times, and in fact up to 20% longer than advertised times, on all of these BK models. I'm hitting up to 36 hours on my Ashford 30.1's, and they're about 10% smaller than your Princess, based on the same tech.

There are three things required to hit these long burn times:

1. Very dry wood.
2. Draft near 0.05"WC (or higher) at high burn.
3. Finding the "stall point" on your dial.

Dry wood is self-explanatory, most of us follow a rule of 3+ summers split and stacked under a roof in open air, although we have two members here hitting very low MC%'s in just one summer using clear plastic tarp solar kilns.

Low draft will cause a stove to stall, when trying to hit very long burn times. This is because the heat output is so low, and the efficiency of the stove is so high, that very little heat is going up the flue. Cool flues don't provide a lot of draft, compared to a hot flue, and so it's very easy to stall the stove.

Stall point is the dial setting where you will put the fire out on a BK, even with a good chimney and dry wood. All BK's can be turned down past their stall point, call it a safety feature if you want. Find and mark the location on your dial where this happens, once the other two issues are nailed down. It helps to use a piece of tape that you can move around as you find this point on successive loads.

Plus, if I want to have my home at 22C, I have to burn it at 600F for 24 hours before I can lower it to 400F and maintain temperature.
That's a function of your home, not the stove. BK's aren't magic, they're just 3 cubic foot boxes filed with burning fuel. Any similarly-sized stove s going to work the same, in this regard.

I originally wanted to pay the extra money to get the biggest one, but I was talked out of it and assured the princess would keep my house toasty. Wish I had that one now.
Was an 8" flue an option for you? If so, I suppose you could always trade up to the King, but the house is still the same.

So I’d put the extra money in unless you have a good deal on 2 stoves. One for each end.
This is what I did, two BK30's, and I was able to work a good deal by buying two at a time. I'm way farther south, but heating a space almost exactly double yours. One stove is loaded once per day, and set for a 24-hour burn cycle. The other is usually loaded twice per day, correspondingly set to a 12-hour burn cycle, although we'll also run a third load through it at wide-open throttle on very cold days.

One final note on draft, WRT "wide open throttle". I said above you want 0.05"WC or higher to hit the longest burn times. This is just an indicator that when things run real cool and slow, you probably have enough draft to not stall. It's really not the best indicator, but it's the one we have from the manufacturer, so it's what we use. That said, draft that's too strong will affect your ability to comfortably run full loads at wide-open throttle. If your chimney sucks 0.20"WC on high when hot, then you're going to want either a key damper or to run your "high" loads with the thermostat turned down a few degrees.
 
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So, 2x 1640 = 3280 sq.ft.? There are many web sites which will help you estimate your heat load, although simply looking at your traditional heating fuel costs / usage is probably more accurate. A Princess holds 500k - 700k BTU of fuel, depending on species, and allows you to dish that out over a range of perhaps 6 to 30 hours, if your setup is working properly.

It seems likely that 3200 sq.ft. in Ontario probably creates a heat load requiring more than the ~20k BTU/hr you're going to get from 3 cubic feet of wood dialed down to a 30 hour burn time. I'd expect finding the dial setting that corresponds to a 12 hour reload cycle would work much better.


Many members of this forum are repeatedly hitting the advertised burn times, and in fact up to 20% longer than advertised times, on all of these BK models. I'm hitting up to 36 hours on my Ashford 30.1's, and they're about 10% smaller than your Princess, based on the same tech.

There are three things required to hit these long burn times:

1. Very dry wood.
2. Draft near 0.05"WC (or higher) at high burn.
3. Finding the "stall point" on your dial.

Dry wood is self-explanatory, most of us follow a rule of 3+ summers split and stacked under a roof in open air, although we have two members here hitting very low MC%'s in just one summer using clear plastic tarp solar kilns.

Low draft will cause a stove to stall, when trying to hit very long burn times. This is because the heat output is so low, and the efficiency of the stove is so high, that very little heat is going up the flue. Cool flues don't provide a lot of draft, compared to a hot flue, and so it's very easy to stall the stove.

Stall point is the dial setting where you will put the fire out on a BK, even with a good chimney and dry wood. All BK's can be turned down past their stall point, call it a safety feature if you want. Find and mark the location on your dial where this happens, once the other two issues are nailed down. It helps to use a piece of tape that you can move around as you find this point on successive loads.


That's a function of your home, not the stove. BK's aren't magic, they're just 3 cubic foot boxes filed with burning fuel. Any similarly-sized stove s going to work the same, in this regard.


Was an 8" flue an option for you? If so, I suppose you could always trade up to the King, but the house is still the same.


This is what I did, two BK30's, and I was able to work a good deal by buying two at a time. I'm way farther south, but heating a space almost exactly double yours. One stove is loaded once per day, and set for a 24-hour burn cycle. The other is usually loaded twice per day, correspondingly set to a 12-hour burn cycle, although we'll also run a third load through it at wide-open throttle on very cold days.
Piece size is a major contributor to longer burn times. "Full" load pictures we have all seen are often not full and are sitting on 6" of ash and coals.

50lbs of wood from 4 pieces will burn much, much longer than 50lbs from 10+ pieces due to surface area.

BKVP
BKVP
 
Hope I can help.

I bought a BK Princess and had it installed Sept 2022. I was told it would heat my house no problem. My home is 1640 sq ft on the main floor and the same for my finished basement.

The brochure says is can heat up to 30 hours on one load but I can’t get that stove to run on the lowest it can without going out for more then 10 hours in 10C weather.
Plus, if I want to have my home at 22C, I have to burn it at 600F for 24 hours before I can lower it to 400F and maintain temperature.

Mine is installed in the basement figuring hot air rises and everything.
I originally wanted to pay the extra money to get the biggest one, but I was talked out of it and assured the princess would keep my house toasty. Wish I had that one now.

So I’d put the extra money in unless you have a good deal on 2 stoves. One for each end.
@Adam C your Princess should have no problem heating your lower level. But the upstairs 1640ft. I dont think so. Speaking from experience. My stove is in lower level 1100ft. I never expected it to heat my upper 1100ft. Sure some heat will get upstairs but not enough to heat the ends. If the dealer installed that stove and convinced you to go with it, raising your concerns back in Oct 2022 would have made sense.

Try running the furnace fan and see if it helps. In my case, if I bring the lower level temps to uncomfortable 28C, run the HRV, then after couple of hours it feels cooler in the lower level and warmer upstairs. My house is uber insulated and the minute someone starts cooking (running the cook oven) the upstairs is perfect.
 
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There are three things required to hit these long burn times:

1. Very dry wood.
2. Draft near 0.05"WC (or higher) at high burn.
3. Finding the "stall point" on your dial.
4. Having high-density hardwood.

Even if I play Tetris with the splits and stuff the firebox as full as it will go, with our prevalent softwoods I'm not nearly at the 50lbs @BKVP mentions. So I obviously have fewer BTU in the stove, resulting in lower runtimes. Simple physics.
 
Your home is 3,280 square ft, correct? Brochure specs below including average heating hours. Your home is 780 sq. ft . larger than the top end in the brochure. Obviously you have a nice home that is on the large size. Do you have a furnace that you can put in "Fan" position to help move heat around the home? Can you post two picture of your "full" fuel load for us to see? One straight on with door open and the other a downward view of the load with the door open?

BKVP

View attachment 322451
Yep. Looks familiar. And that’s what I said when I first ordered the King 40. That the square footage doesn’t add up.
But when the owner of the company comes and says he has the same size house and it heats it up very well. Especially with the added fan. And that the King 40 will be way too big and I’ll hate it.
Plus I was told 1200-2500 doesn’t specify total living space vs above grade sq ft like on real estate listings.
So needless to say I don’t ever recommend that place. Plus their customer service…needs a good tuning. And since it’s the only dealer within an hours drive, I won’t blast them on here like I’d like to.
I do have a furnace and I do run it on circulate.
And sorry, I won’t be taking any pictures. Full to me is when you can’t fit any more wood in.
 
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Go with the BK 40 on 6” chimney.
I used 3” insulation under slab and along footings, 6” in the walls and 14”+ in the ceiling. I spent extra insulating as I plan to keep this property. It is located near Bayfield Ontario. It’s fairly far south, however, it’s right on Lake Huron. I have another property virtually as far as you can go North (Hunta ON) and it’s almost as tough to heat here with the lake effect winds and storms. I was just in Hunta last week and it was colder but no wind, it seems to make a big difference.
Put in the 6” insulated chimney with a pipe damper and don’t look back.

Hook chimney to a BK 40 and don’t look back. It’ll run just fine on the 6” insulated chimney (16 ft ceilings plus additional height).

The only other thing you might consider with the BK 40 is to talk to @BKVP about removing the side shields on the stove to allow more radiant heat to work in your favor.

I still think the BK 40 will provide plenty of heat output on a 6” chimney while still giving the longest burn times possible.

The key to heating with any of these in the location you mentioned under the conditions you mentioned is to get it warm and keep it warm. Even let the radiant floor pull some of the weight…it won’t hurt…it will only help the stoves towards your goal.

A stove with a thermostat like the BK when combined with large firebox (fuel capacity) is going to benefit you once the building and everything in it is warmed up. These units will shine with the thermostats and you’ll be surprised how little heat is needed for such a large space because you insulated well.

EDIT:
Here’s another option:
 
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4. Having high-density hardwood.

Even if I play Tetris with the splits and stuff the firebox as full as it will go, with our prevalent softwoods I'm not nearly at the 50lbs @BKVP mentions. So I obviously have fewer BTU in the stove, resulting in lower runtimes. Simple physics.
Fair enough. but I suspect 50 lb. of oak is only half full on a princess. The handful of times I've bothered to weigh my wood load before stuffing into the stove, it's always right around 80 lb., and my Ashford 30's are 10% smaller than a Princess.
 
but I suspect 50 lb. of oak is only half full on a princess
Probably. The firebox of a 30 is 2.9 cu ft?
Then a quick estimate gives me about 145lbs of oak for that volume, with no spaces in between.
I'll have to weigh my wood bucket when I get the chance...but from the feeling of it I'd say it's about those 50 lbs when full.
 
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Remember MC will influence weight. Some trees (madrone) are so dense, they are like steel.