Blaze King all nighter load.

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My BK king I can pack (I usually go east west) and have it on full bore overnight - it will last a solid 8-9 hours with plenty of coals in the morning to easily ignite big splits. That's all without a liner. Next year if I stay at my present house I will be putting a liner in.

I had a liner in and took it out yesterday. My stove burns much better now. I have a clay chimney on the side of my house . Really don't see the big hype about liners . Also my draft is much better


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I had a liner in and took it out yesterday. My stove burns much better now. I have a clay chimney on the side of my house . Really don't see the big hype about liners . Also my draft is much better


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You are right but ,don't you worry about creosote buildup?I have a brick lined chimney and back in the day my NC 30 would draw and sound like a freight train,got a liner when I switched to BK's and noticed a difference in draft,and this is only with just about 13 feet from stovetop to chimney cap. Not a big deal but without the stainless liner I know the performance would increase.
 
I had a liner in and took it out yesterday. My stove burns much better now. I have a clay chimney on the side of my house . Really don't see the big hype about liners . Also my draft is much better
Then honestly your liner was not installed correctly of it was sized wrong. There is no reason a properly installed and sized liner should reduce you draft.

Not a big deal but without the stainless liner I know the performance would increase.
Read the above post what possible reason do you have to think the lack of liner would cause an increase in performance?
 
You are right but ,don't you worry about creosote buildup?I have a brick lined chimney and back in the day my NC 30 would draw and sound like a freight train,got a liner when I switched to BK's and noticed a difference in draft,and this is only with just about 13 feet from stovetop to chimney cap. Not a big deal but without the stainless liner I know the performance would increase.

If you're wood is dry then really you should not have to worry about creasote build up.


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If you're wood is dry then really you should not have to worry about creasote build up.
That is not even the slightest bit true. You can have tons of creosote buildup with dry wood and you can have relatively little with wet wood. It is all in how the stove is run. Yes dry wood will always be better but you can still do it wrong with even the best wood.

Can you explain you setup with the liner and without? I am just curious how your performance could be improved by removing the liner. It goes totally against everything I have seen in many years in the field.
 
View attachment 191486 It may not be a bk (some day..)but it's still a good amount of wood and it's all about 18"-19" in length.
There's still room for a little more if I was more selective w/ splits. Gotta hurry on a hot reload ya know.

I have the same stove but can only dream of owning a BK .

I was able to load some long splits (almost 22") loaded EW and burned 8-9 hours overnight easily. Loving the HT2000 so far
 
I have the same stove but can only dream of owning a BK .

I was able to load some long splits (almost 22") loaded EW and burned 8-9 hours overnight easily. Loving the HT2000 so far
That is about the max it will handle e/w. I'm more comfortable with 21" though.
When I have help bucking wood I always ask the help to cut at 18" and it normally ends up being 20"+. But with the HT2000 no problem I just burn'em e/w.
 
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I have a 11x7 clay liner in my chimney. If all the liner would do is save me from sweeping the chimney twice instead of once a year then I can deal with that... My draft is excellent, never any problems.
when was the last time you had the liners inspected? Are the joints between them still tight and full of mortar? Do you have the required clearance from the outside of the chimney to combustible materials? There are many reasons for a liner other than draft.
 
Are the joints between them still tight and full of mortar? Do you have the required clearance from the outside of the chimney to combustible materials?

The brick chimney is about 14 years old and I have a SS cap on it. I sweep it myself and inspect from the top and bottom, and everything looks good. The crown is good. Have I had someone drop a camera and look at it? No. But I also wouldn't expect any issues from such a young chimney.
 
The brick chimney is about 14 years old and I have a SS cap on it. I sweep it myself and inspect from the top and bottom, and everything looks good. The crown is good. Have I had someone drop a camera and look at it? No. But I also wouldn't expect any issues from such a young chimney.
Why not tiles could have cracked with the first fire you had in it or they could have been cracked when installed for that matter. If the mason used standard mortar between the tiles it is likely gone at this point. 14 years of burning is allot of hot and cold cycles and could easily have damaged the tiles even without a chimney fire. And if you had any fires in that time then the chances of the tiles being damaged is very good. Do you have the required clearance from the outside of the masonry structure?
 
Same here mwhit
I am by no means saying that clay liners are bad just that there are lots of factors that go into determining if a clay liner is still a safe liner. And draft is one of the least important
 
Bholler, how many chimney sweep companies use a camera to inspect? I've never had one do that. They just looked with a light.

As for the clearances, I have no idea. What I do know is I'm not ripping my chimney down... :)
 
Bholler, how many chimney sweep companies use a camera to inspect? I've never had one do that. They just looked with a light.
Every one should. Not necessarily with every cleaning though. We do it after the first cleaning on a chimney then every 5 years or so after that or if there are any indications something may have happened. Some companies scan every one every time but I don't see a need for that. Beleive me there is no way to do a thorough inspection of the inside of the chimney just with a light.

As for the clearances, I have no idea. What I do know is I'm not ripping my chimney down... :)
No one said you need to rip your chimney down. But for an external chimney you need to have 1" of clearance from the outside of the masonry structure to any combustible material. For an internal one that goes up to 2". Here is a copy of the code requirements.
http://www.rumford.com/code/clearances.html
Without those clearances the adjacent wood will over time become pyrolized which comes from being heated over and over and it can eventually lower the ignition point very low to a point that if you had a chimney fire that wood could ignite.

An insulated liner removes that risk. And also greatly improves the performance of your system.
 
Nice load. Can't load my Jotul 450 that full.
 
We have our chimney cleaned by a professional every other year and the guy runs a camera down it. We have a liner inside a masonry chimney also so it is overkill, but I have been on too many chimney fires turned house fire to not play it safe.
 
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Without those clearances the adjacent wood will over time become pyrolized which comes from being heated over and over and it can eventually lower the ignition point very low to a point that if you had a chimney fire that wood could ignite.

An insulated liner removes that risk. And also greatly improves the performance of your system.

If your masonry was not built properly and/or has a compromised clay liner, then its only value is as a structural support for the insulated liner. You must use an insulated liner in this case to have a legal installation.
 
If your masonry was not built properly and/or has a compromised clay liner, then its only value is as a structural support for the insulated liner. You must use an insulated liner in this case to have a legal installation.
absolutely correct.
 
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