better sharpener?

[iron]

or
something else?

i don't cut enough to develop good filing skills. just looking for something i can pull out every other year to sharpen the chains.

HF currently has it for $30.

 

[zrock]

Every other year... I usually pull out a file after just about every use for a touch up. Or if I hit something my 2in1 sthil sharpener to bring everything back... a sharp saw makes easy work. Worth the extra few min

Sent from my SM-G903W using Tapatalk

 

[DodgyNomad]

or
something else?

i don't cut enough to develop good filing skills. just looking for something i can pull out every other year to sharpen the chains.

HF currently has it for $30.

Spend an extra 10 bucks and get a Stihl (pferd) 2 in 1. Trust me. You'll be way ahead.

 

[iron]

Spend an extra 10 bucks and get a Stihl (pferd) 2 in 1. Trust me. You'll be way ahead.

for the stihl 2 in 1, it looks like i would need the 3/8 version for this chain, right?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PTAA6HS/?tag=hearthamazon-20

in the video i watched for the 2 in 1, the guy said it doesn't work on square ground chains and only works for full complement chains. will i be okay?
this link shows that it has both square and round files, so maybe the first part doesn't apply.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB9F6M2/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[triptester]

I purchased a Pferd 2n1 a month ago . Found it easy to use and it does a great job.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pferd-Chai...Low-Profile-/232805005380?hash=item3634427844

 

[zrock]

for the stihl 2 in 1, it looks like i would need the 3/8 version for this chain, right?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PTAA6HS/?tag=hearthamazon-20

in the video i watched for the 2 in 1, the guy said it doesn't work on square ground chains and only works for full complement chains. will i be okay?
this link shows that it has both square and round files, so maybe the first part doesn't apply.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB9F6M2/?tag=hearthamazon-20

Very much doubt you have a strait cut on your chain... The square file you see in the picture is for the rakers to file them down at the same time as you sharpen.. Thats the sharpener i have and it works great. I can get the chain sharp enough that it will cut to fast and i have to hold the saw back slightly or it will bog down.. This is just a little 16" saw that travels on my atv.

 

[DodgyNomad]

for the stihl 2 in 1, it looks like i would need the 3/8 version for this chain, right?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PTAA6HS/?tag=hearthamazon-20

in the video i watched for the 2 in 1, the guy said it doesn't work on square ground chains and only works for full complement chains. will i be okay?
this link shows that it has both square and round files, so maybe the first part doesn't apply.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB9F6M2/?tag=hearthamazon-20

I can't answer your question regarding that Oregon chain. It could have different specs and geometry, and may or may not work. Over time, I've converted my replacement chains all to Stihl full chisel over the years because they seem to hold up better and stay sharp longer.

I own 2 of the Stihl 2 in 1's, one big one, one little one, and have used the little one on several of my lightweight non-Stihl brand trims saws with the original factory chains with great success. It worked perfect on my little Echo, my little Hitachi, and a couple of Tanakas.

So in my experience, my sharpener worked perfectly and sharpened to "good as new" on every brand of little saw and chain I've tried it on.


Just be aware that those el cheapo HF and other Chinese grinders do not hold tolerances very well, and don't tend to give very good results from everything I've seen first hand and heard from folks. Know some guys who bought them, and they eventually end up sitting on a shelf collecting dust because the results end up being disappointing.

 

[JimBear]

I have 4 of the 2-1’s, .404 (they sent the wrong size & I didn’t notice till I went to use it) 3/8 & 3/8Picco & a .325. I have used the .325 on a couple Oregon chains & didn’t seem to have a problem with it.

 

[DodgyNomad]

I have 4 of the 2-1’s, .404 (they sent the wrong size & I didn’t notice till I went to use it) 3/8 & 3/8Picco & a .325. I have used the .325 on a couple Oregon chains & didn’t seem to have a problem with it.

Good to hear. Has worked excellent on every chain I've tried it on, including a couple of others I didn't mention that belong to the neighbors.

OP, one other thing on those cheapo electric grinders to consider. There's a learning curve with those, and you will take off more metal to get them sharp than you will with a hand file of some kind. I've extended the life of my chains dramatically over the years with hand filing, vs. using any type or kind of electric grinder.

The 2 in 1 hits those overlooked rakers, which makes a big difference. If you're going to learn a new tool anyway, might as well make it a good one. Read some of the many suggestions on using the 2 in 1 for tips. Biggest one is getting the chain and bar viced down and getting yourself into a comfortable, ergonomic position so you can make those accurate and repeatable strokes.

The more accurate and robotic you become at it, the more like a brand new, out of the box chain you'll duplicate. When you get proficient, you should be able to exceed the factory sharpness on most of the chains you buy.

 

[jotul8e2]

Timberline:

https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/shop/timberline-chainsaw-sharpener

It is the only tool I have used that can give me a better-than-new edge.

 

[Jason721]

Timberline:

https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/shop/timberline-chainsaw-sharpener

It is the only tool I have used that can give me a better-than-new edge.

Same here. Love my timberline!

 

[Prof]

I tried a Harbor Freight sharpener about 10 yrs ago--it was junk. I get better results with a simple file and guide. I'd cast another vote for the timberline, but it is not the fastest way to go. I usually use a simple file in the woods to touch things up after a couple tanks and then use the Timberline when I get home to get things back to "better than new."

 

[TJ1]

I bought one of these from Amazon over 3 years ago:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N4L2LO/?tag=hearthamazon-20

It is absolutely fantastic. I can sharpen a chain in a few minutes and the chain will cut straight and pull through any log evenly. I struggled for years with files and see no reason to work on mastering them. Carry one medium and one large saws with me when leaving the workshop and by the time both chains are dull am to tired to continue anyhow. I try to take as little off as possible and one chain has been sharpened at least 10 times and still cuts great.

 

[salecker]

It doesn't mater what tool you use to sharpen the chains on your saw,you still have to know how to use the tool.
There are lots of different tools out there but none of them do it without the operator having a basic knowledge of what is going on.
My self i know what needs to be done to make the chain cut,so i have the choice of using any of the tools out there to sharpen the chain.I have two grinders set up a Stihl and a Silvey.The Stihl is for cutters and the Silvy is for rakers.
I also have a precursor to the timberline,which gets taken along if we go to a remote worksite without power.A bunch of files and other types of guides have made it to my shop over the years.If i go cutting where i have 12 volts i will take the dreamel type sharpener to touch up the chain if i hit anything to dull it.Usually have an extra chain and files along as well.I hate to come home with 1/2 a truck load because you forgot a spare chain,files,ect.

 

[Jazzberry]

It doesn't mater what tool you use to sharpen the chains on your saw,you still have to know how to use the tool.
There are lots of different tools out there but none of them do it without the operator having a basic knowledge of what is going on.
My self i know what needs to be done to make the chain cut,so i have the choice of using any of the tools out there to sharpen the chain.I have two grinders set up a Stihl and a Silvey.The Stihl is for cutters and the Silvy is for rakers.UOTE]

 

[Jazzberry]

It doesn't mater what tool you use to sharpen the chains on your saw,you still have to know how to use the tool.
There are lots of different tools out there but none of them do it without the operator having a basic knowledge of what is going on.
My self i know what needs to be done to make the chain cut,so i have the choice of using any of the tools out there to sharpen the chain.I have two grinders set up a Stihl and a Silvey.The Stihl is for cutters and the Silvy is for rakers.
I also have a precursor to the timberline,which gets taken along if we go to a remote worksite without power.A bunch of files and other types of guides have made it to my shop over the years.If i go cutting where i have 12 volts i will take the dreamel type sharpener to touch up the chain if i hit anything to dull it.Usually have an extra chain and files along as well.I hate to come home with 1/2 a truck load because you forgot a spare chain,files,ect.

Agree as long as a Silvey is not included in the comparison. Heres my choice that works much better for me. Electric for the bench and rechargeable for the field.

 

[Highbeam]

or
something else?

i don't cut enough to develop good filing skills. just looking for something i can pull out every other year to sharpen the chains.

HF currently has it for $30.

I've owned and used that HF sharpener for about a decade now. It's been perfectly adequate and I see no need for anything else. Prior to owning this grinder I would deliver chains to a local saw shop and for 6$ per chain he would grind off about 25% of each tooth! By carefully sharpening with the HF grinder I have been able to get many many sharpenings out of each chain and the quality of the sharpening is at least as good as the professional.

Maybe it's just practice. I feel like I could do just as well with a dremel device but the control of the cut angle with the HF grinder is much better.

 

[rowerwet]

The Pferd 2 in 1 sharpener is all I carry in the field. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046VN5Z6/?tag=hearthamazon-20
One the chain is cutting croocked or has been rocked , the timberline sharpener trues it up to factory sharp

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

or
something else?

i don't cut enough to develop good filing skills. just looking for something i can pull out every other year to sharpen the chains.

HF currently has it for $30.

I have the HF grinder. Would rather have the $30 back. Worked ok on one type of chain, not great. Like the granberg guide better. But it's pretty slow.

 

[sutphenj]

Agreed.

I've owned and used that HF sharpener for about a decade now. It's been perfectly adequate and I see no need for anything else. Prior to owning this grinder I would deliver chains to a local saw shop and for 6$ per chain he would grind off about 25% of each tooth! By carefully sharpening with the HF grinder I have been able to get many many sharpenings out of each chain and the quality of the sharpening is at least as good as the professional.

Maybe it's just practice. I feel like I could do just as well with a dremel device but the control of the cut angle with the HF grinder is much better.

Agreed....I used to drop them off as well for the same price but they would cut off way too much.

 

[Jotel me this]

ive used this. works very well but you have to use a specific chain:

 

[blacktail]

.

 

[greg13]

I have an antique Belsaw (pre foley/belsaw) that I use just to bring the angles back from file sharpening. .

 

[Dobish]

i have one of these, and it works decently for bringing back chains that have been trashed, but I prefer the 2n1 as well. There is a lot of play in this unit, and if you are using different chains, it is not worth it. if you only have 1 style of chain, and the teeth length are consistent, it is worth 30$

 

[Medic21]

Just got this delivered today. My last one only lasted 1.5 years and broke. This is the 620-120 from Oregon. Under $400 on Amazon.

I can almost do 2 to 1 with the hydraulic assist. Love it so far.