Str8781 said:
A Stihl MS-361. Although a littler heavier than your target weight, it is one hell of an all around firewood saw.
Best Chainsaw for bucking and limbing
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A Stihl MS-361. Although a littler heavier than your target weight, it is one hell of an all around firewood saw.
smokinj said:
Full chisel. Round these parts, most ding dongs call them a chipper blade. It was actually funny to me when I wrote it, but not so much any more.
LLigetfa said:
I want pics of how that is gonna work. :lol: Three point hitch holder for the saw and lower it into the cut with the hydraulics.
BrotherBart said:
Park that tractor next to one with that Craiglist splitter you found and you would have one mean production line.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/39648/
I don't think they will allow cameras inside the nursing home.BrotherBart said:
This whole burning wood thing is my exercise program otherwise I could just use the gas furnace and atrophy.
I am about the same size and build as you. I bought the Dolmar P5100 as a an all-around saw. I like the power/weight ratio, and the anti-vibration technology. I checked out Stihl saws - nice saws, but a little on the heavy side for me. I have bucked about 2 cords of hickory with the Dolmar so far, and am quite happy with it, but it is a bit heavy for me to use for extended limbing. If I was going to do a lot of limbing, I would get a smaller, lighter saw than the P5100.
I do most of my cutting with a Dolmar 7900, which I purchased as an upgrade to my original 36cc Pull-On Woodsman... I normally run a 20" bar w/ full chisel, but I have a 28" bar that I've used for the occasional really big rounds. While it is kind of fun doing 2" limbs with an 80cc saw, it is a tiny bit on the overkill side... :coolgrin: (I cut up nearly ALL of any trees I drop, anything over an inch goes in the wood pile...)
If weight is an issue, I would definitely look for a pro-grade saw, they tend to have much better weight and power numbers than consumer grade saws in the same CC category, plus they tend to be much better built, easier to maintain and repair, etc...
If looking for a "One-Saw-Plan" saw, I'd probably go for a 50cc class saw, as they seem the best overall compromise between light enough for limbing and small stuff, while still having the cojones for reasonably heavy duty cutting. In that size range, I think that if you have a good dealer in your area, or can do your own repair work, the best saw for the money is the Dolmar 5100s (this is the pro-grade model - the 510 is the same size in a lower grade, has a little less power and weighs more...)
The biggest thing is don't over-bar, or at least not without doing it on purpose - I would probably run a 16" bar on a 50cc saw for most use, with maybe a 20-22" bar using a "skip chain" as the backup for cutting the main bar loose if you get stuck, or to have something that you can use on the occasional big log that won't work with the short bar...
Gooserider
If weight is an issue, I would definitely look for a pro-grade saw, they tend to have much better weight and power numbers than consumer grade saws in the same CC category, plus they tend to be much better built, easier to maintain and repair, etc...
If looking for a "One-Saw-Plan" saw, I'd probably go for a 50cc class saw, as they seem the best overall compromise between light enough for limbing and small stuff, while still having the cojones for reasonably heavy duty cutting. In that size range, I think that if you have a good dealer in your area, or can do your own repair work, the best saw for the money is the Dolmar 5100s (this is the pro-grade model - the 510 is the same size in a lower grade, has a little less power and weighs more...)
The biggest thing is don't over-bar, or at least not without doing it on purpose - I would probably run a 16" bar on a 50cc saw for most use, with maybe a 20-22" bar using a "skip chain" as the backup for cutting the main bar loose if you get stuck, or to have something that you can use on the occasional big log that won't work with the short bar...
Gooserider
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