Bar and chain oil substitute in a pinch.

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Ashful you mean Like 13 3 speed manual trannys and 3 rear ends on the same car? The trials of stop light drag racing.
 
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Canola all the way. No contamination in your lungs, clothes, woods, etc. Bar oil aerosolizes when used. You are basically dumping what ever you run into the soil and watershed while breathing it Bar wear has been tested in the US, Canada, and Europe as similar or better to petrol. The actual studies are available with some digging, but here is a synopsis. I have used it for 10 years plus, no issues. I have done no testing for canola as an astroglide replacement yet.
I'll get back to ya on that...
(broken link removed)
 
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Ashful you mean Like 13 3 speed manual trannys and 3 rear ends on the same car? The trials of stop light drag racing.

Holy crap... if you blew thru 13 tranny’s, you’re beyond me! I had a car that blew up one T5 and then two T4’s, before I upgraded it to a C6, but that was the limit of my trans failures.

I also blew apart a Ford 9” once, but I think it had to be set wrong, because I was only running 540 hp thru it. That rear should take 1000+ hp, I suspect.

Yep, lots of street drag racing. I realize how stupid that was, with the benefit of age and hindsight, but there we were...

And to keep it on-topic, I didn’t run chain and bar oil in any of them. ;-)
 
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Canola all the way. No contamination in your lungs, clothes, woods, etc. Bar oil aerosolizes when used. You are basically dumping what ever you run into the soil and watershed while breathing it Bar wear has been tested in the US, Canada, and Europe as similar or better to petrol. The actual studies are available with some digging, but here is a synopsis. I have used it for 10 years plus, no issues. I have done no testing for canola as an astroglide replacement yet.
I'll get back to ya on that...
(broken link removed)

It'll work in a pinch....
 
Car was a 61 ford Sunliner, engine swap 35xci ford truck eng. (long stroke vs the orginal eng.) Junk yard swaps back in the days when you removed whatever yourself.
 
Oh,, on the topic of "hydraulic fluid is not a very good lubricant"...... I only say this because I once had a old dodge that leaked oil like crazy out the rear main. I went to cut a load of firewood and i checked the oil level and it wasn't showing on the stick. I was out of motor oil so......... 3 quarts of hydraulic fluid later... she was reading right on the full mark. 1 mile in 4x4 low to the wood, and 1 mile in 4x4 low back home, she was knocking so bad thought I would never make it home. I eventually tore her down and all the main and rod bearings were scored beyond belief. Cam bearings shot. It was as if I had poured a gallon of sand in the engine. From that point on I say no more hydraulic oil for lube. It could have been the hydraulic fluid broke up some dirt, or it could have just been the ole' girls time. Just me. I have been reading on other forums about this and others have used it with "no problems".... my point on using it is this:... i wouldn't care to use it on a chain, but my worries is what will that oil would do to the plastic gears in my oil pump. My current oil is about 15 to 20 percent hydraulic oil and so far so good, but I def wouldn't use it pure, personal pref.
 
Plastic gears- finite life- heat is main culprit - get brittle - self destruct. Likely a combination on the old girl. Damaged likely occurred long before the Hydro oil introduced
 
As stated, gear oil, although a bit smelly, is a good substitute.

I have 10 gallons of cheap farm-store gear oil I got for $5 at a garage sale from a guy. I don't trust it enough in anything of value but I bet it's as good as cheap bar oil for a saw so that's what I've been running for the last year plus.
 
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