Ashford 30.1 smoke smell
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From the top of the stove to the screws on the 45 it's 4 feet. There is 6 feet total inside the house. Then the attic which isn't much. Then 9'6" outside. Plus the cap.
After my gasket replacement the problem is 95% gone. I can still get a little smell when, after the 20 minute full-open load char, I turn it down. If, for turn down, I turn the thermostat down until the damper just seats then wait 10 minutes and do this it again repeatedly until I reach the desired burn rate, often times no smoke is detectable at all. Interim, you might want to try this.
I'll give that a try.
What I still don't understand is how there is a smoke smell with a sealed stove.
It is apparently not sealed well enough. Defect in some aspect of the door gasket seal is the most likely culprit.
Ohiojoe, I suspect your stove is like mine-on the verge of being perfect but needs a little more flue stack. The gasket change out should help a lot. I have the same problem you have-getting that last few feet installed.
I have 18' so it is high enough. BKVP will be getting back with me on the extreme density gasket in ~2 weeks. I will try that first. The problem with my flue is it is 8" and cools the stack gasses to much preventing the required draw. The next step would be to place 6: single layer stainless pipe down the center of the existing 8" pipe. The double walled solid pack pipe is very expensive. I think the 6" internal liner will do it as it will be super insulated from the outside cold. Higher is a last resort for me.
If you decide to add on I suggest a 4' section as the cost difference is not that great. Then get a soot eater so you never have to access the top of the stack.
If you decide to add on I suggest a 4' section as the cost difference is not that great. Then get a soot eater so you never have to access the top of the stack.
I'm gonna try the gasket first. If that don't work then I'll probably add the 4 foot. What is keeping me from wanting to add more chimney is that my dealer wants a ton of money to do it. I feel I like they should have known the 45s would have effects on the daft and should have said it needed to be taller. I have no problems paying for the pipe it's the labor they are trying to charge me when it should have been done when they installed it.
I agree, the cheaper solution first. Adding the pipe should only be 1 hour of labor. Very simple to do. For the cost of the labor you might be able to purchase an orchard ladder and cut off the swing-out leg. It looks like you have ~10' sticking out of the roof. A 12' ladder might work as you only need to reach the bottom joint of the top piece of pipe. The chimney pipe can be purchased from the web. You must use the same brand so they interlock together.
Hope the rtv glued gasket does the trick. 4 more feet would make the chimney look like a silver rocket on the house. It is already pretty high. Additional footage is going to need more strong bracing.
You can make your own extended brace arms with 1/2" electrical metal tubing (EMT). Just smash the ends flat with a hammer and drill holes as needed. My house looks the same as yours, the chimney is taller than the house! It is 56F outside and the ashford is keeping it 75 inside, perfect for me but my wife likes it 80 so I guess it is time to shift the setting a little. Stove top 200F cat at 10 O'clock. Amazing.
Would I need to add another brace or remove the one I have and use something stronger?
I am not an expert but I would leave the existing brace and add one more. You might use the same roof attachment points and add the new support arms to them thus avoiding more roof penetrations. It would depend on the angles involved. It just has to be rigid enough to withstand the wind blowing it over.
I'm thinking if I do it myself I'm going to need some kind of boom lift. When on the roof I can barely reach the bottom of the top section. So trying to stand up an 8 foot section of pipe might be tricky. And at over $230 per 4 foot pipe I don't wanna risk dropping it.
The ladder I use is an adjustable combination A frame-extension type so even though it is on an angular roof, it is properly level and safe to use. The addition of leg levelers can be added on to one side to even things up if on a steeper roof. Two ladders will be required though, one to get onto the roof and one to use once you get there. No acrobatics required. Yes, the pipe is costly and a bit heavy too. You will need at least an 8' ladder.
I replace the pipe, after cleaning, one piece at a time.
I replace the pipe, after cleaning, one piece at a time.
A typical A frame ladder has legs that swing out and lock into place. Placed on a roof it might fall over or at least the stairs will be straight up and down and thus very unsafe to climb. An extension A frame ladder has adjustable swing out legs to accommodate an uneven surface. The one I use is made by Werner. Little Giant makes one too but extension legs can't be added. Home Depot sells the Werner ladders. You can look at them on the web. The installation labor might pay for it then down the road you can do any repairs yourself. A local rental outfit might be the way to go and permit trying different sizes to figure out the best one to buy.
Ok I got what you're saying now. Once I read litter giant I knew exactly what you were taking about.
Wind and snow. A brace is required at every 5 ft. above the roof exit point for the chimney.
Thanks.
What about it sliding on the shingles? My roof is a 6/12 pitch. Ever have any issues with that?
That is a rather steep pitch but the ladder can be secured with a rope so it can't slide. The feet are designed to grip and shingle grit is highly frictional. The flared stance of the ladder makes it very steady. How high above the roof is the existing stack?
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