I have a question regarding ashes left from burning. We got an Osburn 2000 last Fall. The firebox fills up much more quickly then our previous woodstove (Regency, which was a larger unit.) The ashes used to be fine and much smaller in the old unit. The new woodstove has way more larger chunks leftover. I could previously burn a whole weekend and not have to worry about cleaning out the fire box, but now I find myself having to take ashes out while actively burning (more so in the middle of the night after a long burn.) I hate doing this as dealing with hot ashes are not ideal and using the ash can, it heats up fast while the ashes are placed in it. Any suggestions? I'm burning the same type of wood (mainly maple and oak, with some occasional other hardwood. I only use softwood, such as pine for kindling to start the initial fire) as before. So, not sure why this is going on? Is there something that helps burn to finer ash vs chunks? Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Ashes (fine ash vs chunks)
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Possibly loss of draft in a tighter unit not maintaining enough air flow and burning the coals down.
I use a coal sifter to separate ash and embers to one side and the coals to the other, then build a small fire on the coals. The heat generated by the fire helps burn the embers in the ash down making for easier removal.
I use a coal sifter to separate ash and embers to one side and the coals to the other, then build a small fire on the coals. The heat generated by the fire helps burn the embers in the ash down making for easier removal.
If you're talking about the chunks of charcoal they still have heat value and will burn down so you can leave them.
If you want to make space before a reload, just throw 1-2 pieces of kindling on top with the air wide open for 10-15 mins.
If you want to make space before a reload, just throw 1-2 pieces of kindling on top with the air wide open for 10-15 mins.
Thanks for the replies. I'm not familiar with a "coal sifter," but will look that up. Nick, would it be better to keep the damper open more if it is loss of draft? I tend to close it as much as I can to not burn too fast (but keep it open enough to keep the temperature in optimum burning range in order to not build cresosote.) The chunks are even there once everything is cooling off. So, they're not hot embers. As for the wood, most of it has been sitting there for 2 seasons (or even longer.) I've been having issues finding non-shaded spots in the yard to pile the wood. I will admit there are times when I can hear a sizzle and see some small foaming out the ends of the wood while it's burning in the woodstove. This isn't all of the time, however, and even when I don't have this happening, there are still bigger chunks left. I wonder if it would be beneficial to do a burn not mixing types of wood and see if maybe it is just a certain one? Again, most of what I use is either oak or maple. Regardless, pretty much all of it is some type of hardwood, with only softwood being used for kindling to start the burn. Good to know, however, that this can contribute to hit. I will be more mindful of which wood I'm using. I did buy a moisture meter to help figure out how dry the wood is, but I got a cheap one from Harbor Freight and I really doubt it's accuracy sometimes. I am thinking about getting a new meter. Any suggestions on what one to get would be appreciated too. Thanks again for the responses.
If the wood has wet spots or even foams, it's far too wet
You mention a pile. If the wood is just piled on the ground, it's not drying very well, so the 2 years may not be enough.
Stack it, with space between the stacks, and off the ground.
I have a mmd4e moisture meter. You have to take a piece of wood, bring it inside so it can get to room temperature (frozen water won't conduct the electricity very well), THEN resplit and measure with the pins deeply into the wood parallel to the grain
Measuring the outside from pieces from a wood pile will give variable results as the outside of pieces on the outside the pile will be relatively dry, and the outside of the pieces from inside the pile will be wetter.
You mention a pile. If the wood is just piled on the ground, it's not drying very well, so the 2 years may not be enough.
Stack it, with space between the stacks, and off the ground.
I have a mmd4e moisture meter. You have to take a piece of wood, bring it inside so it can get to room temperature (frozen water won't conduct the electricity very well), THEN resplit and measure with the pins deeply into the wood parallel to the grain
Measuring the outside from pieces from a wood pile will give variable results as the outside of pieces on the outside the pile will be relatively dry, and the outside of the pieces from inside the pile will be wetter.
@stoveliker nailed it... Room temperature, then fresh split and immediately measure. Outside old split can measure in the teens and the inside be over 30. The occasional little bit of sizzle happens. Foam and large wet spots is bad.
Oak in WI in ideal conditions is 3 summers seasoning (sunny, windy location, off the ground, not super mongo size splits or rounds). Hard maple, elm, birch, locust, hickory is 2 summers; ash, cherry and low BTU woods 1 summer. These are generally minimums in ideal conditions and an extra year is better, especially for large splits and rounds.
What's your flue system? I personally fight strong draft when hot due to height and weak draft when cool due to a 4' horizontal run. Getting my loads well charred before closing the door is key for me (with well seasoned wood). Poorly seasoned wood needs the moisture boiled out with the air more open to maintain high enough temperature before it can cruise. This results in shorter burn cycles. Have you checked your flue for creosote buildup?
Oak in WI in ideal conditions is 3 summers seasoning (sunny, windy location, off the ground, not super mongo size splits or rounds). Hard maple, elm, birch, locust, hickory is 2 summers; ash, cherry and low BTU woods 1 summer. These are generally minimums in ideal conditions and an extra year is better, especially for large splits and rounds.
What's your flue system? I personally fight strong draft when hot due to height and weak draft when cool due to a 4' horizontal run. Getting my loads well charred before closing the door is key for me (with well seasoned wood). Poorly seasoned wood needs the moisture boiled out with the air more open to maintain high enough temperature before it can cruise. This results in shorter burn cycles. Have you checked your flue for creosote buildup?
As for stacking, I usually use pallets and stack in rows. Will put a steel T post at each end. I try not to stack too high to avoid the stack tipping over. I've learned the hard way to find a spot that gets a lot of sun. Most of it, I try not to burn unless it's been there for at least a year already. Oak I leave longer (2 yrs or more), but it will depend on how long the logs have been laying before I even cut it. For example, there were some downed trees that were there about a year before I cut and split them. I figured if it was dead and down for awhile already, that should save some time.
I have the chimney cleaned every year professionally. The Osburn 2000 unit itself was brand new last November and the stove pipe up to the box in the ceiling was new as well. From the ceiling to the top of the chimney above the roof is not new, but was cleaned last July. So, overall creosote shouldn't be built up too much. I will say there's a little bit of a run with a bend in it from the unit to the ceiling. So, not ideal for draft, but that's the way it was installed to avoid a truss (and originally installed about 7 years ago.) Picture is of the old unit, but you can at least see the layout of the stove pipe anyway.
![[Hearth.com] Ashes (fine ash vs chunks)](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/woodstove2-webp.337693/ "[Hearth.com] Ashes (fine ash vs chunks)")
I have the chimney cleaned every year professionally. The Osburn 2000 unit itself was brand new last November and the stove pipe up to the box in the ceiling was new as well. From the ceiling to the top of the chimney above the roof is not new, but was cleaned last July. So, overall creosote shouldn't be built up too much. I will say there's a little bit of a run with a bend in it from the unit to the ceiling. So, not ideal for draft, but that's the way it was installed to avoid a truss (and originally installed about 7 years ago.) Picture is of the old unit, but you can at least see the layout of the stove pipe anyway.
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