Another Wood Stove in a Pole Barn thread

[Mike Cook]

It's going to take 10' of double wall to meet code.







The transition piece from single wall to double wall.



and a final shot of the overall project. Pay no attention to the mess........

 

[begreen]

That's a lot more single wall than most stove makers recommend. Many say switch over to double wall if the connector is longer than 8 ft.

 

[Mike Cook]

That's a lot more single wall than most stove makers recommend. Many say switch over to double wall if the connector is longer than 8 ft.

chit! Hmmmm..Didn't know that!

That really just means that it needs to be run hot and cleaned yearly, right?

 

[BrotherBart]

I hope fossil rings in. That roof looks about the same height as his living room. And I think he goes to the ceiling with single wall. Maybe not.

 

[BrotherBart]

And you have a whole different definition of "pole barn".

 

[oldspark]

chit! Hmmmm..Didn't know that!

That really just means that it needs to be run hot and cleaned yearly, right?

How many feet of single wall will you have, if only a few feet over the 8 I dont think you will have a problem.
Nice pictures, my ceiling box will be mounted to the rafters because I will have tin on the bottom of them other wise my install will be some what like yours, going to build a metal frame for the stove to get it off the floor by 18 inches or so.

 

[Mike Cook]

How many feet of single wall will you have, if only a few feet over the 8 I dont think you will have a problem.

It'll be close to 12 feet with an offset with a couple of 45's. Haven't decided where the 45's are going....

 

[oldspark]

It'll be close to 12 feet with an offset with a couple of 45's. Haven't decided where the 45's are going....

I assume the stove will be burnt hot most of the time, keep an eye on it and clean often (especially in the begining when you are going through the learning curve) and you should be fine.
Nice shop by the way.

 

[begreen]

What stove is this? Looks like an old Drolet, but I don't recognize it. The double-wall pipe for longer connectors is a recommendation, not a a requirement. It does make a difference on some draft sensitive installations and does keep the flue gases hotter. If you don't have excessive creosote build up due to pipe cool down I wouldn't worry too much about it.

 

[Highbeam]

What stove is this? Looks like an old Drolet, but I don't recognize it. The double-wall pipe for longer connectors is a recommendation, not a a requirement. It does make a difference on some draft sensitive installations and does keep the flue gases hotter. If you don't have excessive creosote build up due to pipe cool down I wouldn't worry too much about it.

SInce the temperature in the barn will likely be quite cold, close to outdoor temps, I can't imagine draft being a problem. Compare this to less dense warm room air in the home, draft should be better. More likely is that creo accumulation will be faster as the length of single wall gets too high and with the 45 degree offsets, that is the thing to watch.

Another thing about pole barn stoves is they aren't likely to be simmered low all day. I expect that it will see full throttle quite often.

 

[Highbeam]

View attachment 114303
It's going to take 10' of double wall to meet code.

View attachment 114304


View attachment 114306

View attachment 114305
The transition piece from single wall to double wall.


View attachment 114307
and a final shot of the overall project. Pay no attention to the mess........

I'm right behind you mike. Stove pipe in the barn in boxes, stove to be delivered on Monday. I won't build the hearth pad until the chimney is installed since I want to be able to get the ladder under it. Our barns look to be similar in construction methods with large truss spacing, mine is 12 feet.

 

[Ashful]

SInce the temperature in the barn will likely be quite cold, close to outdoor temps, I can't imagine draft being a problem.

What am I missing, here? Draft is a product of the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors . As that difference approaches zero, draft stops. In cases where it's cooler indoors than outside (your barn on a warm spring day ), draft reverses.

 

[Highbeam]

What am I missing, here? Draft is a product of the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors . As that difference approaches zero, draft stops. In cases where it's cooler indoors than outside (your barn on a warm spring day ), draft reverses.

It just doesn't work like that in reality.

Perhaps colder air is denser air and creates pressure at the base. Warm air aloft is less dense and also with elevation is at a lower pressure due to height so it sucks.

You know, I might not understand chimney draft too well. What drives air to climb that pipe? Worthy of a new thread.

 

[Mike Cook]

What stove is this? Looks like an old Drolet, but I don't recognize it.

It's a Country Comfort CC175. I got it off Craigslist and can't find manuals anywhere.

 

[Mike Cook]

Another thing about pole barn stoves is they aren't likely to be simmered low all day. I expect that it will see full throttle quite often.

That's what I'm thinking too. The big block structure is suppossed to "bank" some of the heat.

 

[Mike Cook]

I'm right behind you mike. Stove pipe in the barn in boxes, stove to be delivered on Monday. I won't build the hearth pad until the chimney is installed since I want to be able to get the ladder under it. Our barns look to be similar in construction methods with large truss spacing, mine is 12 feet.

New stove, huh? Nice! My trusses are at 10' The pole barn is 36X40 so they just quartered the 40'.

Yeah, it's been getting chilly over here...Seems like we went from it being too hot to get on that medal roof.... to frost in the mornings...

 

[Highbeam]

New stove, huh? Nice! My trusses are at 10' The pole barn is 36X40 so they just quartered the 40'.

Yeah, it's been getting chilly over here...Seems like we went from it being too hot to get on that medal roof.... to frost in the mornings...

Yes, I cruised CL looking for a certified stove which is required to pass inspection. The few I found were small, rusty,beat up badly and still priced at more than half of what the nc30 will cost new. So I went ahead and splurged on a new one. The englander 30 is about the perfect stove for this application.

We had 30 degrees and frosty pumpkins this morning.

Thinking I will dry stack the CMU blocks for the raised hearth.

 

[begreen]

Wow, big temp difference from here. We had a low of 46F.

 

[Highbeam]

Wow, big temp difference from here. We had a low of 46F.

I didn't expect 30 either, being close to the sound must moderate your temps somewhat. The grass and roofs were all white with frost. The diesel was nice and smokey in this temp especially since I didn't run it yesterday and it was cold soaked.

 

[begreen]

Yes, Puget Sound is a giant heat sink. Keeps us warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. It's not uncommon for Seattle to be at 85 and we are at 72F. Our temps are usually closer to SeaTac's, especially in the winter.

 

[Mike Cook]

I used the template on the inside to drill a hole in the center. I used the hole as my layout point for the outside.



It's kind of a weird feeling cutting into a perfectly good roof! I should also mention that up to this point I've done all of the work from a ladder. Working on a metal roof from a ladder sucks.


I cut the bottom as tight as I could with a hand held 4" grinder. I over cut a little on the right on accident. It's not more than about a 1/4 inch, but I wanted it tighter. I filled the over cut with silicon.


At this point the exterior flashing is installed but not fastened. This way I can move the flashing a tiny bit to help plumb the stove pipe. After the cathedral support box is installed, I can go back outside and finish the fasteners.

One of my challenges was installing a cathedral support box after the flashing was installed above it. You can't reach down into the box because of the flashing and you can't reach up into it because of the stove pipe. I ended up putting all of the stove pipe together and using it to support the double wall higher than I needed it. (There is a collar that gets attached to the double wall pipe that holds the pipe on the cathedral support box. The collar is inside the box.)

Here's a step stool on blocks with various shop items piled up to the proper height for the stovepipe support.



We got the pipe plumbed up and started sliding the support box up the pipe. The support box with 2 X 6's attached is heavy, so imagine my choice words when the support box would not slide over the single wall to double wall converter. I battled it for about 20 minutes and then decided take the pipes apart at the transition.

The double wall pipe is heavy and the support box is to, so it was quite the chore to hold the double wall up into the flashing while trying to fit the cathedral support box over the pipe while on a ladder with my wife helping. She was on another ladder. (If anyone takes anything away from this thread, it should be: It's easier on you and your home life if you ask a buddy to help! ;-) )

The pic below shows the dings on the reducer where I couldn't get the box over it. It also shows the dent in the double wall where we dropped it. Like I said....it's heavy, we're on ladders, and my wife was helping me. Sometimes my impatience bites me in the ass.....



(The final installation doesn't have that much double wall hanging down. I'm using one of the outside pieces to prop up the pipe with the retaining ring until I could get the box nailed off.)

 

[Highbeam]

There must have been an easier way. Could you not drop the class A down through the flashing and support box from above on the roof after it was installed? Having the pipe in there seemed to be your problem and I've always put the pipe up last.

 

[begreen]

That's correct, the pipe goes in last. The normal way is to install the cathedral support box first, then install the flashing, then insert the pipe, lock in place, then anchor the flashing and install the storm collar. Seal with silicone.

 

[Mike Cook]

That's correct, the pipe goes in last. The normal way is to install the cathedral support box first, then install the flashing, then insert the pipe, lock in place, then anchor the flashing and install the storm collar. Seal with silicone.

Now you tell me!

Actually, that's what I figured, but I wanted to get the box hung before I rented the cherry picker to do the roof work. I was trying to save a few bucks.........

In the best of all worlds, the damn roof would just be framed. I was REALLY nervous being up on the metal roof from the ladder, so it clouded my judgement. In hindsight I should have A.) Had a buddy to help and B.) Planned on renting the man lift for at least a day, maybe 2. Next time.......

It's windy as hell here in Spokane tonight. The stove pipe is holding up well. It doesn't even rattle......

Inspection in the morning.

 

[begreen]

All's well that ends well. Windy here too. But nice sunny skies so no complaints.