Another newbie looking for advice

[avsmusic1]

Yes, it sounds fair if the unit is in excellent condition and warranted.

Even if the warranty is 90days as I outlined above?

 

[weatherguy]

Even if the warranty is 90days as I outlined above?

You'll know within 90 days if something serious is wrong, hell you should know in a few days.

 

[jdp1152]

Buy the biggest one that looks nice and will fit.

 

[Kosmik]

Hence, make sure you have some wood good and dried out. Going to be a lot harder to tell if something is wrong with the stove, if there is something wrong with your fuel...
I though all sorts of stuff was wrong with my new stove, then learned problems easily fixed with a flue damper and the driest wood in my wood pile.
EDIT: And stove top and flue thermometers.

 

[ryanwc]

Another newbie/lurker, so I don't have a lot of expertise. But I'd suggest one thing - it's hard to predict which rooms the stove will heat up and how much. Better to get a wireless thermostat that you can move around as you see how the wood heat works than to do work to hardwire one somewhere and find that room varies too much with the fire.

 

[pdxdave]

Does the discount seem appropriate/fair?

I'd recommend to not get the Lopi Declaration - it is poorly designed and will not live up to the expectations from the sales literature

 

[NHcpa]

That is sage advice. Nothing worse than reading about a guy with a big J***l stove with chitty wood and a bad setup. The ratings on whatever stove you decide on are based on the most OPTIMAL conditions. Without properly seasoned fuel(preferably high BTU, or frequent loadings) you will disappointed with the setup.

Big Jotul ... No complaints .

 

[bobdog2o02]

Big Jotul ... No complaints .

My post was not a slight against Jotul. I've never even touched one. There was a thread active the time of my post that you quoted that was about a Jotul owner with an insert install in a ~1900SF split level that couldnt move heat from the bottom level. Bad install, no insulation, unseasoned wood. Perfect storm.

 

[avsmusic1]

OK - change of plans.
After hearing a couple of mixed reviews from a couple of co-workers on the other store I was planning to do business with I decided to look around a bit more. I think I would have been ok but that mild doubt coupled with the fact that the stove was used was enough. I circled back to the store closest to me (literally walking distance) that I've heard great things about from one of my neighbors and they were selling the Regency i2400 off their floor. It's not quite as pretty but it seems like a good deal, they have sold a ton with great feedback, it's the same size firebox, and I like the idea of being able to walk down the street if there is ever an issue.

They sent an installer out today per my request to take a quick look at my space. Overall, it was good news with the exception of one thing. The damper opening is rectangular so the installer said he would have to ovalize a section of the liner to fit it. He said they may have to use a 5.5" liner too. I was a little uneasy about this but the installer said he didn't think it would impact drafting and that it isn't a safety concern. I still wanted to get some additional opinions here though. I searched some past threads but didn't find anything that quite addressed my situation. Should I be concerned or is it nothing to be worried over?

Thanks!

 

[Grisu]

OK - change of plans.
After hearing a couple of mixed reviews from a couple of co-workers on the other store I was planning to do business with I decided to look around a bit more. I think I would have been ok but that mild doubt coupled with the fact that the stove was used was enough. I circled back to the store closest to me (literally walking distance) that I've heard great things about from one of my neighbors and they were selling the Regency i2400 off their floor. It's not quite as pretty but it seems like a good deal, they have sold a ton with great feedback, it's the same size firebox, and I like the idea of being able to walk down the street if there is ever an issue.

They sent an installer out today per my request to take a quick look at my space. Overall, it was good news with the exception of one thing. The damper opening is rectangular so the installer said he would have to ovalize a section of the liner to fit it. He said they may have to use a 5.5" liner too. I was a little uneasy about this but the installer said he didn't think it would impact drafting and that it isn't a safety concern. I still wanted to get some additional opinions here though. I searched some past threads but didn't find anything that quite addressed my situation. Should I be concerned or is it nothing to be worried over?

Thanks!

Congratulations. Did the installer also check the hearth? I remember the Regency I2400 needing some thermal protection when installed flush with the floor like it seems to be in your case. Not sure what is under the tiles you have there.

 

[avsmusic1]

He did- he said I will need to buy a small mat to stick out front while we're burning but that we should be fine otherwise. I guess they sell them at their shop and they're <$100

 

[stovelark]

Hello Not a fan of ovalizing coming through the damper- normally you would cut the damper housing out of the way, allowing the 6 inch ss liner to oome through un-impeded. Having said that, a 5.5 inch would probably work fine, if the MFR allows that size... Good luck and get your wood started now..

 

[Grisu]

He did- he said I will need to buy a small mat to stick out front while we're burning but that we should be fine otherwise. I guess they sell them at their shop and they're <$100

I would inquire about that if necessary directly with the company. Here is a quote from the manual (page 8):

"Hearth thickness of 0.5" with k value = 0.84", r value = 0.6 or greater" and "The specified floor protector should be 3/8" (18mm) thick material with a K - factor of 0.84. The proposed alternative is 4" (100mm) brick with a C-factor of 1.25 over 1/8" (3mm) mineral board with a K-factor of 0.29."

A simple hearth pad won't give you that.

 

[Ricky8443]

I need your help

I love the ambiance of a wood fire but I hate that my existing fireplace sucks more heat out that it emits. As a result, I’m been lurking around this forum and doing some research to try and find a wood burning stove to install into the masonry fireplace. I live in a colonial that’s just shy of 1800 sqft. First and foremost, I want to make my fireplace usable in colder weather. I’m thinking the insert/stove will be used as a secondary heat source on weekends so it’s not critical that it be able to heat my entire home, but I’d like to heat the lower level (~1000sqft). Also, I’ll apologize in advance to all the purists here, but aesthetics are definitely important (especially to the wife), as is price.

The Good
-centrally located chimney
-nat gas heat

The Bad
-Colonial styling (i.e. not open concept)
-Built in 1920’s so it’s drafty

The Ugly
-Fireplace dimensions -opening is 29.25”H x 33.75”W x 17”D (26” rear width) with 20” of additional floor protection out front (willing to purchase an ember protection mat)
-Top trim is 44.5” from the floor and my wife would never allow a mantle shield

Options I’m considering:
-Hearthstone Craftsbury
-Enviro Boston 1200
-Vermont Castings Montpelier (w/3”extension)

I’m looking for input from all the experts here on my current considerations and/or recommendations for other potential solutions. Thanks in advance!

I have virtually the same house. Drafty, brick colonial, lots of rooms. I started my search in same mind frame as you. Looks are the best right? Problem with aesthetics in this situation (and mine) is that you're going to burn yourself out of the room anyways because its too small, so you wont get to enjoy the fire dancing. You also don't want to be one of those people that get the stove for aesthetics and then stop using it after a year or two because of the work. Take your time and continue doing your research, sounds like your off to a great start.

 

[avsmusic1]

I would inquire about that if necessary directly with the company. Here is a quote from the manual (page 8):

"Hearth thickness of 0.5" with k value = 0.84", r value = 0.6 or greater" and "The specified floor protector should be 3/8" (18mm) thick material with a K - factor of 0.84. The proposed alternative is 4" (100mm) brick with a C-factor of 1.25 over 1/8" (3mm) mineral board with a K-factor of 0.29."

A simple hearth pad won't give you that.

Interesting. I had read that in the manual as well and actually asked the gentleman they sent out about it. That was when he suggested the hearth pad. Looking through the manual again, it appears I would need this level of protection to extend the full 18" from the door opening, correct? I believe I have that level of coverage for the ~20 inches my hearth extends from the fireplace but I would only have ~14" from the firedoor opening.

(broken link removed to http://www.regency-fire.com/Files/Manuals/I2400-918-171.aspx)

 

[avsmusic1]

I have virtually the same house. Drafty, brick colonial, lots of rooms. I started my search in same mind frame as you. Looks are the best right? Problem with aesthetics in this situation (and mine) is that you're going to burn yourself out of the room anyways because its too small, so you wont get to enjoy the fire dancing. You also don't want to be one of those people that get the stove for aesthetics and then stop using it after a year or two because of the work. Take your time and continue doing your research, sounds like your off to a great start.

Thanks Ricky -What stove did you end up with?

 

[avsmusic1]

Grisu - I think the pad the installer was talking about was something along the same lines as what's in this link (broken link removed)

 

[avsmusic1]

Hello Not a fan of ovalizing coming through the damper- normally you would cut the damper housing out of the way, allowing the 6 inch ss liner to oome through un-impeded. Having said that, a 5.5 inch would probably work fine, if the MFR allows that size... Good luck and get your wood started now..

The unit is approved for a 5.5" liner. My fear is that he may need to ovalize it slightly still (just my uneducated speculation at this point). Is it typical to cut out the damper assembly entirely vs removing the door?

 

[Grisu]

Grisu - I think the pad the installer was talking about was something along the same lines as what's in this link (broken link removed)

A type 2 pad should be fine as it usually has the required r-value. I would get one that is long enough to cover the entire hearth area, not just some add-on to your current one. Especially if you don't know for sure that there is nothing combustible under your current hearth. Considering you have carpet I would do more than the required 18"; I had embers pop for a good 2 ft. Make sure your local building inspector/insurance are ok with that solution and don't require a more permanent/fixed hearth.

 

[avsmusic1]

We will eventually redo the living room and I'll extend the hearth at that point but the mat seems like a doable option until then. I appreciate your point about embers popping out further and I've had that experience myself. I may opt for a deeper mat as a result but I'm really hesitant to buy one to put under the unit b/c we like the look of the current hearth and would like to put the mat in the closet when we're not burning the stove. I'm virtually certain that I have the r-value needed under the stove, I'm just not 100% on whether or not it extends the full 20" that the stonework does.

I talked through the plan to add the insert with my insurance company and they are OK with it. It's going to cost me an extra $75 a year or so, but they are fine so long as it's installed professionally and not intended to be the primary heat source. Interestingly enough, they seem more sensitive to freestanding stoves than inserts.

Any additional thoughts/opinions on the ducting? It would only be ovalized for the one section and I have a ~30ft chimney.

 

[begreen]

With 30' of chimney I'd go with the 5.5" recommendation.

 

[avsmusic1]

With 30' of chimney I'd go with the 5.5" recommendation.

assuming they didn't have to ovalize it, correct?

 

[begreen]

Correct. They could just cut a notch in the damper if needed.

 

[avsmusic1]

ok thanks
Out of curiosity, why 5.5" over 6? Different drafting characteristics with a 30ft chimney?
Thanks again

 

[bobdog2o02]

My guess is it will heat faster/easier and draft better.