amercan harvest 6039

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Ok most I've ran the stove is 8 and the thing is freaking hot hot!! So never went to 9 I normally have draft fan on 5 if I'm not downstairs and hr is on 2 or if I'm down there I go to like hr7 draft 9 room fan 9 seems to work good for me.. Normally I have the draft lever pulled all the way out gives me a nice quick flame
 
mines always out to....cuz it aint got one. lol its the OLD version of the 6039 before they had draft plates. haha I love the thing, it makes AWESOME heat! Heats my dumpy old house pretty good! infact.....way better than i had thought it ever would!...enough so, ill be moving my wood burner outside!
 
Yeah I'm very impressed with it to!!! I hear ya my house was built early 1900s so it's draft.. This is in my office for basement and does awesome.. Do you burn just pellet or corn to
 
i burn corn and pellets mixed together. My house was ORIGINALLY a school house. built in like 1830? Pre-Civil War era. Then it was converted to a "home". It has about 0% insulation...lol This weekend, my neighbor and i spent like 4 hours laying underneath it in the dirt crawlspace putting insulation in the floor rafters....it was intersteing to say the least... That dirt down there hasnt seen daylight since the 1800's..and WOW is it dry!! Hoping the insulation helps cut down on drafts!
 
Wow be neat to look up old pictures of that place and find out some history on it!!
 
Yah i got a few, but none from the black and white days. i found pictures of it with the old bell on the back of it...i was pretty floored. Just found a pop bottle today burried in the dirt downstairs..its a Nesbitts pop bottle....just googled it, they started prduction in 1927. Pretty neat actually! Wander what else i can dig up! lol

also found a mirror that has some ttype of stamp on the back of it from 1910, says something about "trade" i forget. ill have to look it up too.
 
Yup! i run the "OAK" my oak port (under burn pot) is wide open, no cap like others seem to have. Its Full bore all the way. lol liek i said, its an earlier version i think...or its been modified before.

Hey, did we tell ya about getting the electrical KNOCK-OUTS for behind the fancy brick fiberboard? Get them if we didnt tell ya. they're 1-1/2 conduit knock-out plugs. Made of metal (obvisouly..lol) plug those round holes behind the fiberboard. It'll help scavenge more heat.
 
I wanna know where you are finding agitator motors for $30. I have one I am rebuilding right now and am going to use it to supplement my CAB50 in an old drafty house built in 1863. I thought about blow in insulation but probably needs new wiring first lol. No its not the original wiring but could use some updating.
 
I have the cab50 as well I love that stove.. But this stove is great to!! I'm going to check those holes your talking about.. What's the idea behind plugging them?
 
I have the cab50 as well I love that stove.. But this stove is great to!! I'm going to check those holes your talking about.. What's the idea behind plugging them?

Longer flame travel equals more heat transfer...... The right one (facing the firebox) needs covered more than the left one. It's (right) almost in line with the CA fan channel. Myself, I'd prefer seeing the right hole stamped directly in line with the draft channel to make it easier to vacuum the ash out.

BTW, whats a CAB50?
 
C a B50 is just another pellet stove I bought mine at the local farm store for about 1200 bucks. How long of flame do you want though because yeah I know you don't want to lazy flame
 
C a B50 is just another pellet stove I bought mine at the local farm store for about 1200 bucks. How long of flame do you want though because yeah I know you don't want to lazy flame

But you want as much dwell time on the flames as possible for the maximum heat transfer. That basically distills down to an 'almost lazy flame' but not quite and the longest duration between initial oxidation (flame creation/gasification) and the byproducts of combustion getting sucked out by the CA fan. Once the byproducts of combustion hit the CA fan blade set, there is no realized heating value except warming the venting which does you no good at all.

The other more subtle issue with an agressive flame is the flame is oxygen rich and if you have a stirrer, an oxygen rich flame will erode the stirrer rather quickly and to a lesses extent, the interior baffles in the stove itself.

An ideal burn is gasification taking place just above the fuel bed with a moderatley lazy flame and long dwell time.

Set up a stove like a blow torch and you'll eat components. Set it up with a lazy flame and you'll create hard carbon deposits in the burn pot, sooty glass and an insulating layer of carbon on the inside of the stove that restricts heat transfer.

Getting an ideal flame requires frequent adjustments in combustion air delivery as well as fuel delivery. Those parameters are continually changing as the stove collects ash and heat load changes.
 
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Analyitically, thats how it works. Your mileage may vary however....
 
So popped the little shield thing off are these the holes your talking about covering?
 

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Anything particular to cleaning it other than vacuum inside out pull up the trap door in back and suck it all out back there?
 
Yup, plug those holes. Clean it good! If you got a leaf vacuum, suck it out!! Some of us get anal and clean it inside and out. Once you get a leaf vacuum on it, you can let it idle, and use an air compressor to blow it out and get bascially NO ash inside the house. Then it'll run even better i bet. haha.

In the pics ya posted, notice the ash and soot tracks leading to the holes?...thats where some of your heat is going...RIGHT out through the holes and up the pipe, Rather than being scavenged by the heat exchanger setup.. Plug em! Both of em if ya want! As flip said, the right one is the most important, however most of us did both of them. It'll help! ANd....like i said numerous times now, go buy a leaf vacuum....you can use it on both pellet stoves, and your friends stoves. lol Trust me, its worth it!!!
 
Just use it to to suck out of the pipe? What are you plugging holes with looks like a big freeze plug or something lol.. I have just. A normal ash vac
 
If you get a Leaf Blower/Vacuum, you can use it to suck out chimney, and stove and all its hard to reach area's. That applies to any pellet stove and chimney system. you HAVE TO LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN THOUGH when sucking from outside to avoid damage to vacuum switch. Personally, i first remove ash cleanouts on bottom, then run sucker at Wide open, then i come in and do my cleaning routine, and even run a brush up the chimney from inside while sucker is outside idling. THEN, before im done all together, i replace the covers and plugs and with door still open, i give it 1 more big HIGH speed suck, and shut the sucker down..and then intall chimney end and call it a day. Then i come in and grease and oil stuff that needs maintained. Then i light the baby up! Ready to rip!

goto hardware store, and buy yourself some 1-1/2" electrical knockout plugs. they fit GREAT! Then install yoru backboard and fire it up!
 
Ok sounds good I always left my exhaust fan on and ran brush down and it cleans good..
 
So once those big holes are stuck shut its forced to go out the little ones at the top?
Exactly. The more you can force the flame and air to go out through the holes on top, the better heat scavenging you get.
 
Wow that's good to know I appreciate it!! But it will still flow enough to burn the flame correctly? Probably means less fuel is needed then
 
depends on cleanliness of the stove, your venting system (as in, how your chimney is setup) and how ya run combustion air (draft fan, manual draft) Cleaning your stove is the biggest key to collecting all the heat you produce.
 
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