Are you implying that one split of wood at midnight gave you coals suitable for a reload at 10am?Put a split on about midnight last night.
Relit off coals this morning at 10:00 am.
I was wondering the same.Are you implying that one split of wood at midnight gave you coals suitable for a reload at 10am?
With automatic air control it’s going to try and achieve the pre set temp. And it’s probably hotter than you want today. And hot enough to get clean burns to me emissions.I’m gonna let it die down. It’s warming up outside. I’ll mess around with it more when I have the proper connector and will try a larger split instead of smaller ones. Maybe part of the problem is that it’s actually warm enough that I don’t need a fire today. I was just working on breaking it in. I just didn’t mean to get that hot with a couple little chunks of wood.
It looks like the stove wants to cruise around 650º at peak burn so far. The Imperial thermometer temperature zones are for single-wall stovepipe and not relevant for stovetop temp. Overfire on this stovetop would be more like 800+.
That makes me feel better. I didn’t see anything in the documentation. I’m also finding VC to not be very helpful. I sent them an email before I bought the stove and never got a reply. I’ve tried to call and ask about a question about the auto damper and temp range, and another time about the flue adapter. They just forward you to the local dealer when you enter your zip code. This would be the same dealer that said I didn’t need an adapter when I bought the stove, then tried to sell me a single wall adapter when I told them I needed an adapter. (6DBK-ADSS) maybe it would work, but it just didn’t feel like the right part. About like my temporary fix.It looks like the stove wants to cruise around 650º at peak burn so far. The Imperial thermometer temperature zones are for single-wall stovepipe and not relevant for stovetop temp. Overfire on this stovetop would be more like 800+.
I believe you will want a vented shield, not something stuck directly to the wall, if operating at close clearances is your goal. This is most often sheet metal spaced off the wall with 1" standoffs, and free air movement around the entire perimeter, but other materials may be possible. It may even be possible to make the shield out of those bricks on green board (@begreen?), if that's the look you want, but you'd want to space it off the wall with ventilation all around.I also found this. https://www.lowes.com/pd/General-Sh...mbled-Ceramic-Brick-Look-Wall-Tile/1000773832
Looks like it is real brick. It shows being put up with adhesive, then filled with grout, but I bet you could put some chicken wire on cement board and use grout for the adhesive and grout lines. Then notch in the half brick for the corners or box the corners with cement board and close the sides with more thin brick tile.
That’s the intent. The face brick in the sketch would be cut in half. The corner brick is notched, with gaps along the top and bottom. Air can enter beneath and exit above.I believe you will want a vented shield, not something stuck directly to the wall, if operating at close clearances is your goal. This is most often sheet metal spaced off the wall with 1" standoffs, and free air movement around the entire perimeter, but other materials may be possible. It may even be possible to make the shield out of those bricks on green board (@begreen?), if that's the look you want, but you'd want to space it off the wall with ventilation all around.
How hot is the wall behind the stove? Can you place your hand on it? If so, how long can you keep it on the wall?
Indefinitely. It’s hot though. I need a new IR gun. I’m guessing 110*. My house is 1950s vintage, rough cut pine. The walls are pine. If you look around in the attic at the exposed framing and trusses, you can see beads of amber and dried pitch.First I want to know what is "hot".
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