I did it a few times on my old CDW.. Lots of gaskets on that stove so plenty of practiceRay its 5/16 just dont stretch it thin when installing, make sure you get channel really clean of old sealant,,, i just did mine.. its easy
No I didn't need to remove the door especially with that black adhesive and no adjustment was needed..I agree while that adhesive is hard to get out of the tube it should work well and doesn't run or sag at all..The black adhesive was a bear to get out of the tube. But it has held up for me unlike the clear cement.
Did you remove the door to do the replacement? If not, did you have to adjust the door very much? I took the door off so I could not tell how different the OEM gasket was vs the Rutland.
I used the clear stuff on my CDW but also had the doors off.. I do prefer the black adhesive now that I have used it.. It also dries fast which would be best for a gasket replacement in cold weather..Tom told me to use the black adhesive or high-temp silicone if the gasket is replaced while the door is on the stove. The clear Meeco adhesive works great if you can lay the door down flat horizontally but is too runny for vertical application.
Great now you tell me after I get hernias in both hands lol!I like to mix the black stuff up in the tube before opening by squishing it around in the tube. That seems to help it flow better.
Do you buy it from Alderlea or use Rutland gasket? How expensive is the PE gasket?Our Alderlea gasket should be here soon. I may try RTV on this one.
Follow up: Only use the OEM gasket, it's about $30. I ended up with RTV as the adhesive and got a much better install past experience with the runny adhesives.Do you buy it from Alderlea or use Rutland gasket? How expensive is the PE gasket?
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