Advice/tips on chain sharpening needed

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If you are behind the saw with the tip pointing away and filing the right-side cutters (i.e. pushing the file from left to right) your left hand (holding the handle of the file) would be lower than your right. It's a pain to maintain at the same time as the 25 degree angle (or whatever) in the other plane. I just sharpened a couple of new chains like that and I can confirm that you need the 10 degree tilt to match the factory sharpening. Whether or not it's important to do so or what purpose the tilt serves, I can't say. After a few more sharpenings mine will probably be close to flat.
 
oldspark said:
Its all about learning as much as you can about the subject, all I was saying is even some of the experts like to have the angles squared up afther 10 times or so, if you can use something that keeps the angles correct you do not have to relay on someone else. Not knowing how to use the gizmo is a whole another subject.

nothing beats perfect form!
 
Does anyone had the link for the video on how to sharpen ??? I think Huskey has one but I can not find the link!
 
Not sure about the Husky one, but there is a video, quite long in length, on felling, etc etc, including using the combi-gauge on the Jonsered site.
 
Socratic, Take another look at Loon's excellent photo. This photo clearly shows a few very important examples of how to file correctly. On the top of the cutter tooth he is sharpening there is a small line which is clearly visible in his photo. That line is called the "witness" mark or "witness" line. That line is the angle, usually 25, 30 or 35 deg., at which you hold the file while sharpening. Notice how loon is correctly holding the file parallel to that line. Notice also that loon is correctly pushing or twisting the file from the "inside" or short end of the cutter toward the "outside" or long end of the cutter. Notice also that the file he is using is large enough in diameter to rise above the top cutting edge of the cutter. This height is what sharpens the top edge of the cutter.

Another comment about the "witness" line on top of the cutter. That line is the farthest you can go in your sharpening. Once you remove all of the cutter to that point the chain should be discarded-its useful cutting life has expired.

Loon's excellent photo gave us a lot more info than he thought it would. Well Done!
Best wishes, John_M
 
LLigetfa said:
I have always held the file perpendicular to the vertical axis of the chain regardless of what angle the bar might be at. I don't go for that 10 degree stuff. I always file forward, not backwards.

Me, too. John_M :-)
 
I made a guide that has really helped me to maintain correct cutter angle. The guide simply extends the angle of the witness mark as well as the mark found on a common file guide to make your filing efforts more accurate.


[Hearth.com] Advice/tips on chain sharpening needed



The guide is a piece of plywood with ends cut at 30*. Then I scribed a few lines parallel to the cut ends.


[Hearth.com] Advice/tips on chain sharpening needed



[Hearth.com] Advice/tips on chain sharpening needed



The bar and chain get sandwiched with the guide in a bench vise.
Align the file anywhere to the series of lines on the plywood and while making the stroke keep your focus on the plywood. Other than that just keep the file level to the plywood.
Hope this helps as it's eliminated my need for having chains ground.
 
Great idea and well executed, 727.

John_M
 
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