Sorry about the delay, the notifications don't seem to carry through.
Anyhow, my heater door works just fine--and it's only 8" wide. It's probably similar to some tiny long stoves in firebox width. You have to keep in mind
@bholler that this isn't a metal wood stove & you don't run it like one. You start from a cold/warm heater, fill up the firebox, light it/get it going, close the door, and walk away or just watch & let it burn down. This once, maybe twice, a day. You don't need to poke the fire, you don't need to add wood--in other words, you don't need to put your hand into a burning fire. And believe me, if you open the door after it's started burning (even during the coal phase) you won't be able to get your hand even close to inside without welding gloves, which honestly wouldn't help much/for long. It's not like you need to chuck 10" wide pieces into the thing--4 to 6" are preferable for good burns and can be gently placed...
Masonry heaters have their own classification/definitions within International code. Look in the International Residential Code, Chapter 10, Section R1002--Masonry Heaters ((broken link removed to http://premiumaccess.iccsafe.org/document/code/362/6125042)). You can find ASTM-1602 around if you look thoroughly enough (mostly definitions, sketches, and clearances, plus a stipulation to build by/under an experienced stove mason). They are EPA exempt due to how clean they burn (always excess air but not too much like a fireplace). If you follow the standards & get everything inspected, you should be good to go in terms of insurance & such. These are massive heaters built of brick & stone--the surface (min 8" thick walls) gets to maybe 110-130 F (ie, NOT burning temp).
My door:
I need to get a better handle yet. I was wrong about the threads--it's 1/4-20 (very common). I'll also redo the door gasket--use 3mm silica wick from a vap shop, embed in a nice layer of high-temp silicone. Should make the door close & seal better. I've obviously overheated it some, but only to dull red w/ lights off--I was setting the wood too close to the door... The back side of the door has threaded holes, so I might get a 1" or so hole milled in the thing & put in a tiny view port of ceramic glass.
@byQ you could get a 1/4" rod, thread one portion, file/grind a flat section on the other end so a key would hold your handle. I like your idea of a metal knob--my wood handle keeps getting a little charred... I might also suggest using brick plugs for the cleanout ports--the metal ones cost some & make a hot spot where you might otherwise like to put your back. The Stovemaster website has some images of these (linked by St. Coemgen). Got anybody interested yet?