Leave the probe in, some people just unhook the linkage so the secondary air stays closed, or at a fixed position.Have not tried either of these mods. When you take the secondary thermometer out, are you essentially closing the secondary air flap?
Leave the probe in, some people just unhook the linkage so the secondary air stays closed, or at a fixed position.Have not tried either of these mods. When you take the secondary thermometer out, are you essentially closing the secondary air flap?
Secondary air, not primary.Have you checked to see if the air control is actually moving in correlation to moving the lever? Mine was stuck open when I got it.
Think I might need to do this. Just cant keep the stove from creeping into the 1600s (sometimes 1700s). Any video or thread that describes the process? Never even taken the cover off the secondary air to be honest.Leave the probe in, some people just unhook the linkage so the secondary air stays closed, or at a fixed position.
Remove the rear heat shield and it’a right there, you’ll see the linkage down to the door from the coil. Disconnect and tighten the screw so the door doesn’t open ( I stuffed some tin foil in mine before tightening the screw just to be sure it’s blocked).Think I might need to do this. Just cant keep the stove from creeping into the 1600s (sometimes 1700s). Any video or thread that describes the process? Never even taken the cover off the secondary air to be honest.
Can any one confirm if this is how their stove air control operates with the air door.
Thanks. My cable was pinched on the inside from the factory. The dealer fixed it but I don't think it's right. It feels like it's catching it or rubbing somewhere.Mine travels the full distance but I had a similar situation. Try loosening the bolt on the door with the handle all the way open, push the door open by hand, pull the cable slightly and tighten the bolt with it open. At least I think that’s how I got the best travel out of it, it’s been a few years.
Don’t take the secondary probe out because you will be left with a hole to plug. Just disconnect the little bar attached to the shutter. Leave the shutter fully closed. I put two round magnets on the bottom of the stove to keep the shutter in place. Also if you take out the pivot screw there should be a little round washer that keeps the shutter moving freely. Take that washer out. Reinstall the shutter screw snug.Have not tried either of these mods. When you take the secondary thermometer out, are you essentially closing the secondary air flap?
Special in the sense that they are the only stove on the market where you have to keep a toolbox on the hearth as well.You shouldn't have to do this. These stoves are something "special"
And a bucket of ash if it goes nuclear :DSpecial in the sense that they are the only stove on the market where you have to keep a toolbox on the hearth as well.
Is this a fixed air rate stove? (Not sure of the correct terminology). Is there an air control? And stop using cardboard to start your fire. You are going to clog up your cap with sh!$ if you haven’t done so already.Hi all, I'm new to VC and wood stoves in general. Just got a Montpelier II put in 5 days ago, and we've had a fire every night. The installer warned that the first one or two fires might have some fumes from the paint curing, but we're still noticing it after 5. Additionally, yesterday at one point I turned off the blower and the carbon monoxide detector chirped. I put the blower back on, and a fan in the window (it was a relatively warm night anyway) and didn't hear from it again, but being new to this all I want to make sure that there isn't something wrong. Other than cardboard starter, I've only burned wood in it,
Additionally, the fire seems to like to crank up to full speed and just stay there. Any tips on how to keep it a little bit slower? I've been loading it East/West with 4-5 logs to start.
Thanks in advance, and other than the above, I've been enjoying this so far.
Oof thanks for the heads up. I saw the cardboard thing as a tip somewhere and it did definitely seem to help get things started but I’ll stop that for sure.Is this a fixed air rate stove? (Not sure of the correct terminology). Is there an air control? And stop using cardboard to start your fire. You are going to clog up your cap with sh!$ if you haven’t done so already.
There’s some diy treads on making fire starters here somewhere in this forum. In the past I would just buy a big box of fatwood from plow & hearth. Now I just use all the scraps from splitting wood. I also peel off all the splinters and stringy stuff from my firewood as I bring it into the house.Oof thanks for the heads up. I saw the cardboard thing as a tip somewhere and it did definitely seem to help get things started but I’ll stop that for sure.
It is a fixed rate unfortunately. The only “adjustment” is there’s a startup timer that basically opens up an airway and then closes it when the timer finishes. From the reading I’ve done since I posted I think I’ll have to focus on the size of my splits and how I arrange them to try and control the burn rate. Alas.
this looks like a clean burn.. clean burns look white ish and disappears quickly.. smoke is darker thickerIs there an easy way to tell what is steam and what is smoke? I’m burning my flexburn for the first time this week I have the cat package and it is in the operation zone. I’m getting light smoke/steam out of my chimney with the cat engaged. I’m burning biobricks so I wouldn’t think that there is much moisture in them.
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Do you have the rear heat shield on the stove?Hi all! My name's Tim. I wanted to introduce myself and my stove and say thank-you. I have a Defiant 1975-CAT-C we purchased it new last spring and had it professionally installed. I've included a picture of the install. It was put in with more than the minimum clearances, but sometimes the walls got kind of warm, so we installed the tin siding on metal stud spacers for a little extra margin since the walls still got hot sometimes and there is a window really close to the stove too. You all greatly reduced my learning curve hence my thanks.
For reference we live near Omaha, NE. Our house was built in 1928 and has no insulation in the walls but a bunch on the ceiling. It is about 2000 sq. ft. when the basement, main floor and attic are combined. So far the stove is doing an excellent job keeping the house a comfortable temperature. I've been getting along pretty well with it thanks to the emphasis on wood quality on here, some people's stove operation flow charts have been extremely helpful as well, and other miscellaneous insights that I have read that have helped me think correctly about stove operation.
Thanks all and happy heating!
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Yes, the heat shield seems to work very well. I don't think it is really even an option not too. I'm pretty sure it was already installed when the stove was delivered.Do you have the rear heat shield on the stove?
How do you mean? The secondary flap, or are you talking about the epa holes?A bit on a high side. Seal it with aluminum foil.
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