2021/22 VC Owner thread

[begreen]

Hello All

I have a VC defiant encore and have had it for 23 years. The lower fireback is cracked and warped. The upper fireback and the refractory are perfect. The lower fireback price is reasonable so I'm going to replace it soon. I can't find anything on replacing just the lower. Does anyone know if I need to take out the upper to replace the lower? Hate to mess with the damper, wedges and have to re-cement etc... I did remove the two lower bolts and the grate to see if it would kind of just pop out but doesn't seem to want to budge as the top of the lower is behind the upper... Thanks in advance...

Anyone have any thoughts on the above ? Thanks In advance

Moved to the VC owners thread for a better response.

 

[ajayabb]

Hello All

I have a VC defiant encore and have had it for 23 years. The lower fireback is cracked and warped. The upper fireback and the refractory are perfect. The lower fireback price is reasonable so I'm going to replace it soon. I can't find anything on replacing just the lower. Does anyone know if I need to take out the upper to replace the lower? Hate to mess with the damper, wedges and have to re-cement etc... I did remove the two lower bolts and the grate to see if it would kind of just pop out but doesn't seem to want to budge as the top of the lower is behind the upper... Thanks in advance...

Anyone have any thoughts on the above ? Thanks In advance

I have the 2250. Not sure if you have the 2190 model. My lower fireback comes off after removing the combustion throat first by hand. Pretty easy at least with my model

 

[Crash525]

I am still new to wood burning. I had a post on here last april-ish about my wood stove getting to hot with a small amount of wood. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/new-vc-encore-and-new-to-wood-burning.187047/ . Since then over the summer the company that installed it came out and fixed it. I had found out that the air door on the back side of the stove was stuck open. They said that the cable for the thermostat was pinched upon installation. It was new stove. So fast forward to yesterday. I fired it up since it was 35 and I wanted to get familiar with it more since I only burned it 2 or 3 times. Yesterday I got a fire going and got a coal bed and the stove top thermometer got to 350-400 no hotter. Thermostat was on high. The cat was not installed. It seemed like I had a hard time keeping the fire going once I shut the damper. It was like this for about 5 to 6 hours. Every time I go to close the damper it would snuff out the fire. Flames would die down, soot on the glass, temp would drop. I open the damper and it would fire back up. I was burning oak and cherry that ranged from 12-18% moisture. 12 to 15 inch long 4-5 wide and split. Does that seem normal?

Today I put the cat in. Got a fire going, established a coal bed, brought it up to 500F and let it stabilized for 20 minutes. Closed the damper, thermostat on high for about 20 minutes then down to half then to about one third. It ran great for a few hours. Stable stove top temps of about 450-500F. I had one third to half a load of the same wood in it. once it burned down to about one quarter the stove got hot. The griddle thermometer got up to 650F, I turned the thermostat to low to see if it would help and it kept climbing for about 40 minutes until it got to 700-750+F. I opened the damper and it took a while to cool down and it dropped to 450-500F. closed the damper and let it smolder but it stayed at a solid 400F for about 2 hours. Glowing logs little to no flames inside and no smoke out of the chimney. I have no idea what caused the spike in temperature. Could it be an air leak. Also to note while the stove started to get hot I did notice a small gap between back ceramic plate. I could see fire behind it. Ill post a picture.

Does anyone have any clue or ideas of what could have caused this? I have a video also but im not sure whats the best way to post it.

 

[ajayabb]

It sounds like you may have an air leak somewhere if the stove temperature continued to climb with the air control turned all the way down. Even though this is a new stove I would check the gaskets on the doors with the dollar bill test and also make sure the ash pan is closed all the way and locked shut The ash pan is a common area for air leaks .

 

[begreen]

Visually verify that the air control flap is closing completely. They can get hung up sometimes for a number of reasons.

 

[Lac a Webber]

Very excited the new Encore 2040 cat-c is on the way!

I am ordering an Auber T100 as it sounds like the way to go for the flue temp. I just want to make sure I am getting the right things.
AT100 link
K type TC
I assume I want the "Mini Connector" option? I am thinking it will allow me to plug into the AT100

I noticed that someone mentioned the Auber T200 but it just looks like it is the digital thermocouple and probe in one pkge. It is more expensive than buying the above separately so it makes me think I am missing something.
AT200 link

Also confused because the AT100 says it comes with a "Three-pin connector"
And the K type TC says it is a "Two-pin mini connector"

Thanks in advance!

 

[Diabel]

That meter is meant for the cat temp. For the flue temp a regular probe meter is fine.

 

[Diabel]

I am away until next wed. You can pm me or call me and we can chat about your setup

 

[Jimmy C]

Visually verify that the air control flap is closing completely. They can get hung up sometimes for a number of reasons.

Why would the fire die out when he closes damper without the catalyst then? If there is an air leak or primary stuck open, he would over fire with or without cat, no?

 

[Crash525]

It sounds like you may have an air leak somewhere if the stove temperature continued to climb with the air control turned all the way down. Even though this is a new stove I would check the gaskets on the doors with the dollar bill test and also make sure the ash pan is closed all the way and locked shut The ash pan is a common area for air leaks .

I did the check with a dollar bill. I burned with it the last two three nights. I used and incense stick and I didn't find any leaks. I did have it back puff on me once and I did notice a small puff that came out under the top from left. Just under the lid.

I have to constantly monitor this thing. It will either get to hot or die off. Does anyone else have this issue? I am open to suggestions

Very excited the new Encore 2040 cat-c is on the way!

I am ordering an Auber T100 as it sounds like the way to go for the flue temp. I just want to make sure I am getting the right things.
AT100 link
K type TC
I assume I want the "Mini Connector" option? I am thinking it will allow me to plug into the AT100

I noticed that someone mentioned the Auber T200 but it just looks like it is the digital thermocouple and probe in one pkge. It is more expensive than buying the above separately so it makes me think I am missing something.
AT200 link

Also confused because the AT100 says it comes with a "Three-pin connector"
And the K type TC says it is a "Two-pin mini connector"

Thanks in advance!

Double check to make sure that the air control flap opens and close when you move the air control level. Mine was stuck open.

 

[Crash525]

Visually verify that the air control flap is closing completely. They can get hung up sometimes for a number of reasons.

The flap opens and closes I guess properly now. I shuts all the way when the air level is closed. It was pinched from the factory when I got it.

 

[Crash525]

Why would the fire die out when he closes damper without the catalyst then? If there is an air leak or primary stuck open, he would over fire with or without cat, no?

It does it with both the cat and no cat. I can't figure this out. I think it either has a broken thermostat coil or it's damages or bent and/or it has an air leak. I can get a nice fire going but I have to constantly adjust the air control once the damper is closed. It either gets to hot or dies out. Even going from fully open to slightly under it will just shut down the fire. Then the stove starts creeping up to 600f and then I turn it down to half or less to make sure it doesn't over heat.

I have no clue. Im open to suggestions.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Hello All

I have a VC defiant encore and have had it for 23 years. The lower fireback is cracked and warped. The upper fireback and the refractory are perfect. The lower fireback price is reasonable so I'm going to replace it soon. I can't find anything on replacing just the lower. Does anyone know if I need to take out the upper to replace the lower? Hate to mess with the damper, wedges and have to re-cement etc... I did remove the two lower bolts and the grate to see if it would kind of just pop out but doesn't seem to want to budge as the top of the lower is behind the upper... Thanks in advance...

Anyone have any thoughts on the above ? Thanks In advance

What model are you running?

 

[Crash525]

VC encore 2040. Do these refactory backs look ok?

 

[Jimmy C]

Anyone have any tips for keeping the whole load from igniting. Usually I cruise at 450-600 GT until the whole load ignites and them i'm well over 700 until the rest of the fuel burns out and temp starts coming down. I mostly solve this by doing half loads but obviously burn time suffers. Just wish there was a way to keep the stove from kicking into second gear and igniting the entire load.

 

[Diabel]

Anyone have any tips for keeping the whole load from igniting. Usually I cruise at 450-600 GT until the whole load ignites and them i'm well over 700 until the rest of the fuel burns out and temp starts coming down. I mostly solve this by doing half loads but obviously burn time suffers. Just wish there was a way to keep the stove from kicking into second gear and igniting the entire load.

Those bi-metalic thermometers are not very accurate. If I check mine against IR gun, it reads the same until it hits 350*, then the bimetalic starts to raise much higher than the ir. To the point where bimetallic reads 700 and ir reads 550. I trust the ir gun

 

[Reckless]

Those bi-metalic thermometers are not very accurate. If I check mine against IR gun, it reads the same until it hits 350*, then the bimetalic starts to raise much higher than the ir. To the point where bimetallic reads 700 and ir reads 550. I trust the ir gun

Mine was so bad I completely disconnected it and closed the opening. Depending on your draft there are a few things you can try, plugging the EPA holes might help also.

 

[ajayabb]

I agree. Start with disconnecting the secondary air controller on the back of the stove. I disconnected mine and closed up with metallic tape

 

[Rusty18]

Anyone have any tips for keeping the whole load from igniting. Usually I cruise at 450-600 GT until the whole load ignites and them i'm well over 700 until the rest of the fuel burns out and temp starts coming down. I mostly solve this by doing half loads but obviously burn time suffers. Just wish there was a way to keep the stove from kicking into second gear and igniting the entire load.

Big splits!
I purposely split the right size tree in half for the sole purpose of having splits that will barely fit in the door then a few “regular size” ones to fill in around it. Seems to create enough of a delay that the whole reload doesn’t cook off at the same time.

 

[Rusty18]

Just a small fire to make sure all the gasket holder is cured and a small heat cycle to help all the iron reseat. And it’ll help dry out the chimney, I had it capped all summer but it has been ridiculously damp this year.
At least that’s my excuse for starting this fire!

 

[Jimmy C]

Mine was so bad I completely disconnected it and closed the opening. Depending on your draft there are a few things you can try, plugging the EPA holes might help also.

Have not tried either of these mods. When you take the secondary thermometer out, are you essentially closing the secondary air flap?

 

[Crash525]

Mine was so bad I completely disconnected it and closed the opening. Depending on your draft there are a few things you can try, plugging the EPA holes might help also.

Have you checked to see if the air control is actually moving in correlation to moving the lever? Mine was stuck open when I got it.

 

[Crash525]

I agree. Start with disconnecting the secondary air controller on the back of the stove. I disconnected mine and closed up with metallic tape

You shouldn't have to do this. These stoves are something "special"

 

[Jimmy C]

Have you checked to see if the air control is actually moving in correlation to moving the lever? Mine was stuck open when I got it.

Yea that would be pretty obvious if it was not. You can feel it in the way the lever moves not to mention observe the fire or just checking the flap.... I just mean that the wood tends to ignite all at once towards mid burn. Just looking to get more efficiency when cruising. All drafts are different, so doing the secondary mod probably helps for some. Definitely considering.

 

[Crash525]

Yea that would be pretty obvious if it was not. You can feel it in the way the lever moves not to mention observe the fire or just checking the flap.... I just mean that the wood tends to ignite all at once towards mid burn. Just looking to get more efficiency when cruising. All drafts are different, so doing the secondary mod probably helps for some. Definitely considering.

We'll make sure it does move properly. It could be set to low and it could still be open. The wood will all be on fire and should be to engage the cat but once the cat is engaged it should regulate the temp as the manual says with the air control. You might have an air leak somewhere.