2021-2022 BK everything thread

[Tron]

I'm assuming you take your pipe off the stove and clean up from the bottom? How do you keep that from pouring mess all over? I had quite a mess with the brush and had to use the shop vac every few minutes. I tried the bag trick but was working so hard to get the oversized brush unstuck and to move up and down that the bags tore.

I use a 5-gal bucket in which I drilled a hole in the bottom where the rod can pass through. I then take off the lower section of pipe and tape the bucket to the pipe with painter's tape. With my wife providing additional support, only very little soot rains down through the hole.

It is a little messy, but if you go in through the bypass hole you don't have the opportunity to vacuum behind the cat.

 

[showrguy]

Ok. I just bought the Sooteater. Only used it to come from the top down through the Class A (6 ft) to get the two 45's and short section at the top. I'm assuming you take your pipe off the stove and clean up from the bottom? How do you keep that from pouring mess all over? I had quite a mess with the brush and had to use the shop vac every few minutes. I tried the bag trick but was working so hard to get the oversized brush unstuck and to move up and down that the bags tore. $24 for a two pack of Sooteater rods here at Menards. Hy-C brand.

Nope, I go through the stove, through the bipass, have the wife hold an old sheet or something over the door opening to keep dust at a minimum..
Then move stove pipe and shopvac the behind the cat area, done..
Mine is a straight shot 35’ off of the stove, I was assuming your’s was straight as well..

 

[kf6hap]

Problem found. Last spring when I lubed the thermostat it must have been full open when I replaced the cover. The limiting screw was preventing the damper from going full closed. The thermostat must be fully CCW when re-installing the thermostat cover.

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

Don’t take pipe off until you’re done sweeping. Shove the sooteater right up through the bypass opening and up the stack.

Ok, I like your advice. Seems like there would be way less mess and I can clean out the top of the stove at the end.

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

Nope, I go through the stove, through the bipass, have the wife hold an old sheet or something over the door opening to keep dust at a minimum..
Then move stove pipe and shopvac the behind the cat area, done..
Mine is a straight shot 35’ off of the stove, I was assuming your’s was straight as well..

Had to go around the roof truss at the top. Used the Sooteater from the top down for just that top portion (45's and the short section between them). I would think it would manage from the bottom too.

 

[showrguy]

Had to go around the roof truss at the top. Used the Sooteater from the top down for just that top portion (45's and the short section between them). I would think it would manage from the bottom too.

View attachment 283202

Yup, I shove all the rods with the head till it hits the cap, then attach the drill and spin it all the way down.

 

[Highbeam]

Yup, I shove all the rods with the head till it hits the cap, then attach the drill and spin it all the way down.

I spin it on its way up clockwise and then on its way down counterclockwise because I’m a nerd. Also put on a few sections at a time to make life easier. Pump it a bit and spend extra time at the cap because BKs make a mess out of the cap.

At the end, lift pipe off of stove and vacuum out behind cat. You can do this from below but it’s more thorough from above. Then, before putting the pipe back on, lube the bypass mechanism.

 

[Tron]

Then, before putting the pipe back on, lube the bypass mechanism.

What's the preferred lube for that? Graphite?
I'd say any petroleum-based lubes are out of the game here.

 

[stoveliker]

Graphite or moly (disulfide), I'd say

 

[kf6hap]

I use high temp 2,600F, anti-seize. The oil base of the lube will burn away but the other components (nickel, molybdenum etc.) will remain slick and last until next year. The brush in the can cap makes application neat and easy.

 

[Tron]

I'd be careful with MoS2 lube, as that's usually in a petroleum matrix. Which likely will burn away and leave gunk.

 

[Highbeam]

What's the preferred lube for that? Graphite?
I'd say any petroleum-based lubes are out of the game here.

Anti seize lubicant. Yes, it's a petroleum base but no it doesn't leave anything behind that does anything bad. It just takes away the squeak and improves the feel. I would consider this lubrication an optional step and I actually forgot about it this year but don't think it's worth taking the pipe apart for.

 

[Tron]

Anti seize lubicant. Yes, it's a petroleum base but no it doesn't leave anything behind that does anything bad. It just takes away the squeak and improves the feel. I would consider this lubrication an optional step and I actually forgot about it this year but don't think it's worth taking the pipe apart for.

Same here, I cleaned the pipe but totally forgot about the bypass flap. Next year, then ;-)

 

[stoveliker]

I have MoS2 without oil, same as graphite. I would also be hesitant to add something with oil - but the experiment says it works, apparently...

 

[Poindexter]

I got the high temp anti sieze from NAPA. It was years ago, but I got a nice lady on the phone when I called the factory who said any of them would be fine. I later confirmed this with BKVP, I think at the time NAPA was selling copper nickel and platinum (?), BKVP said any of them were adequate for the thermostat application.

 

[BKVP]

Problem found. Last spring when I lubed the thermostat it must have been full open when I replaced the cover. The limiting screw was preventing the damper from going full closed. The thermostat must be fully CCW when re-installing the thermostat cover.

How you know why we have the warning label! Now it will work as intended. I'm glad to read Francisco is helping you out. He is an exceptional employee.

 

[BKVP]

I may buy a Sooteater...but I too use the 5-gallon bucket with hole in the bottom. My KE40 (and all prior King models) has a adjustable section of double wall. I slide the pipe up, with brush attached to first section of rod, push up and down, then add 3' rod and repeat. Essentially I repeat this process all the way to the cap. My cap is never as bad as some other may be but when I get to the top, I spin the rod clockwise. (Not CCW because I might unscrew the brush!)

I did learn to tilt the 5 gallon bucket slightly and that way very little creosote makes it way to the hole where the rod penetrates the bottom of the bucket.

 

[moresnow]

I may buy a Sooteater...but I too use the 5-gallon bucket with hole in the bottom. My KE40 (and all prior King models) has a adjustable section of double wall. I slide the pipe up, with brush attached to first section of rod, push up and down, then add 3' rod and repeat. Essentially I repeat this process all the way to the cap. My cap is never as bad as some other may be but when I get to the top, I spin the rod clockwise. (Not CCW because I might unscrew the brush!)

I did learn to tilt the 5 gallon bucket slightly and that way very little creosote makes it way to the hole where the rod penetrates the bottom of the bucket.

Same cleaning method here except I use a plastic bag in place of the bucket. I also put a old bedsheet over the stove to keep any grit from getting in the fans. I use a Sooteater also. I bought a extra Sooteater head this summer which I will cut extra long for better cap cleaning.

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

I would like to have a new combuster on site for when the stove is ready for one. I have a one year old King. The nearest BK dealer is 4.5 hour away. Can I order one online? (sorry if this was previously covered, none of my searches bore fruit).

 

[kennyp2339]

I would like to have a new combuster on site for when the stove is ready for one. I have a one year old King. The nearest BK dealer is 4.5 hour away. Can I order one online? (sorry if this was previously covered, none of my searches bore fruit).

Midwesthearth.com

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

Midwesthearth.com

Thank you.

 

[Diabel]

It must not be my day today. Here is a stupid question:
I want to tighten the door latch on my Bk. Watched a utube vid. (Some guy from Alaska). All he did was loosen the outside nut turned the latch clockwise couple of times and tighten the nut. Done. Well, when I loosen that nut….the latch becomes very loose and wobbly I can turn it all I want but when I tighten the nut again the latch comes to the same position as when I started the process! Do I need to loosen the nut in the firebox too?

Latch tighten! Loosened retainer nut (one on the outside). While holding the actual latch with vise gripes rotated the inside nut couple rotations clockwise. Tightened the retainer nut. Latch nice and tight.
I am sure the door seal was still sealing fine just judging by the behavior of the fire and burn times but latching required zero pressure…..I could do it with my left pinkie……

 

[Highbeam]

Thank you.

I am on my second or third cat from them. Happy customer. I keep a spare on the shelf ready to go. There have been shortages with other brands and with the current supply chain issues for everything I wanted a replacement on hand.

 

[ratsrepus]

I keep spares on hand, also have a door gasket for each stove

 

[circle_burner]

Hey guys.
Long time lurker short time cat burner.
We replaced our 80's wood electric burner with a ke40 and I'm loving this 2020 king. it's breathing through 32' of double wall pipe inside the interior masonry chimney.
currently sipping pine and loading enough to carry it for 12 hour reloads with PLENTY of room left over.