2021-2022 BK everything thread

[mlsoden907]

Thanks, consensus seems to be that the issue is not one to be overly concerned with as long as it doesn’t build up abnormally and is only around the bottom of the ring. I have 12’ of Excel black pipe inside and 8’ of double wall up through my attic space.

8’ of double wall is 3’ inside attic and 5’ above roof line

 

[stoveliker]

8’ of double wall is 3’ inside attic and 5’ above roof line

I'd (naively) think it should be possible to get the cap above freezing with that length. But as @begreen said, @Poindexter is the expert in Fairbanks.

 

[mlsoden907]

I'd (naively) think it should be possible to get the cap above freezing with that length. But as @begreen said, @Poindexter is the expert in Fairbanks.

As I have been getting this info I think that I have been doing a reload too soon and not allowing for an extended burn with the thermostat open full. I am going to let the stove go longer and the cat gauge go further down in the active zone before I reload.

 

[stoveliker]

As I have been getting this info I think that I have been doing a reload too soon and not allowing for an extended burn with the thermostat open full. I am going to let the stove go longer and the cat gauge go further down in the active zone before I reload.

The length of the burn should be dictated by how much heat you need (longer burn is less heat per hour), not by the issue of ice. The thing you need to try imo is to burn high until the ice falls off, IF you are concerned about the weight of accumulation. Time that, and then you know (for this weather) what you need to do to get rid of the ice. Here it took some 10 minutes or so at 20 f to drop the icicles (but my stack is tall, so colder up too).

 

[lsucet]

As I have been getting this info I think that I have been doing a reload too soon and not allowing for an extended burn with the thermostat open full. I am going to let the stove go longer and the cat gauge go further down in the active zone before I reload.

I think that you can get a good start of how to burn following the instructions in the operating/owner's manual.

Once you feel comfortable, possibly you can make some adjustments here and there based on wood species, amount, heat needed etc. That also should take care the icy condition you are experiencing.
Sometimes going back to the basics is the best route.

 

[mlsoden907]

The length of the burn should be dictated by how much heat you need (longer burn is less heat per hour), not by the issue of ice. The thing you need to try imo is to burn high until the ice falls off, IF you are concerned about the weight of accumulation. Time that, and then you know (for this weather) what you need to do to get rid of the ice. Here it took some 10 minutes or so at 20 f to drop the icicles (but my stack is tall, so colder up too).

Thanks, will keep this info in mind as I move forward. With the responses I have gotten I am less concerned now about the ice causing severe problems. I will still keep and eye out for any damage they cause when dropping.

 

[mlsoden907]

I think that you can get a good start of how to burn following the instructions in the operating/owner's manual.

Once you feel comfortable, possibly you can make some adjustments here and there based on wood species, amount, heat needed etc. That also should take care the icy condition you are experiencing.
Sometimes going back to the basics is the best route.

Thanks, good advice. I have not been doing full open burns on reloads. The stove has been heating and burning so nice that I have been adding wood, letting it catch and burn for only a few minutes so that it gets going well and then turning the thermostat back a bit to keep the temps comfortable. Will let my burns go a bit longer so that when I reload I can let the stove run longer full open without it cooking us out.

 

[stoveliker]

Yes. That pumps out the remaining moisture better out of the chimney. Good luck. And please let us know how it goes.

 

[Dustin]

The thermostat on my KE40 is “crunchy” when I turn it.

It still works as it’s supposed too, but it wasn’t always crunchy before .

Since it’s only been a year… should I call the stove shop or is there a quicker fix?

Dustin

 

[Dustin]

Coal pictures after a 24 hour half load of mixed Doug Fir and alder. High of 39 here today and 31 last night.

There is an alien in my stove…..

 

[Highbeam]

The thermostat on my KE40 is “crunchy” when I turn it.

It still works as it’s supposed too, but it wasn’t always crunchy before .

Since it’s only been a year… should I call the stove shop or is there a quicker fix?

Dustin

Super easy and needed every couple of years.

Close the thermostat to max cold. Remove the thermostat cover. Locate the spring washer on the thermostat rod that provides tension. Finger on some high temp anti seize grease, work it in, turning the thermostat knob. You’ll feel it get smooth like buttah.

Then, close the thermostat back to full cold (closed flapper) and put the cover back on.

 

[MTASH]

I didn't even take the cover off, just shot the end of the shaft where it goes into the box with some spray lube .

 

[Poindexter]

Thanks, good advice. I have not been doing full open burns on reloads. The stove has been heating and burning so nice that I have been adding wood, letting it catch and burn for only a few minutes so that it gets going well and then turning the thermostat back a bit to keep the temps comfortable. Will let my burns go a bit longer so that when I reload I can let the stove run longer full open without it cooking us out.

Sorry for the delay. I am not sure how much overtime I have been working in the last 16 days or so, but it has been an unreasonable amount.

Do we see creo-sicles around Fairbanks, yes. Do I see creo-sicles on my stack, only very rarely. Our local BK dealer is excellent. If they installed your chimney and aren't worried, you are golden.

The main thing I see now that I have caught up from having been tagged, is the bake portion, bake down, bake out portion of the burn.

When I am down to hot coals, a glob maybe basketball sized +/- it is time to reload. Then get all the coals lined up somewhere, manual says to the front, then load the firebox to the gills, to the rafters, cram every stick in there you can.

With the loading door opened and the bypass door open, let the coals catch the new fuel on fire. Once the new fuel has caught good, leave the loading door just cracked with the bypass door still open and let the new fuel get to a good ripping burn. When it is first getting going you will hear kind of huff-pause-huff-pause. Once it is drawing good and the fuel is well caught you should hear just a steady rush or roar.

Close the loading door. WIth the bypass door still open we now wait for the combustor temp to come up to the active zone. On a hot reload, my definition, the combustor hasn't dropped out of the active zone. With the new fuel well engulfed, the loading door closed, the combustor up to active zone, now we close the bypass door and enter the bake down zone.

Or bake out, or just the "bake" What you got is a box full of desirable new fuel under 20% MC, but closed up inside a steel box at 600 degrees F. The last of that water is getting baked out now. Takes about half an hour. Leave the thermostat, the throttle at full, top of the swoosh, let it thunder while that free water gets baked out.

Then, after the 30 minutes, with your new fuel baked down to 0.000% moisture content in a 600 degree oven, now turn the throttle/thermostat down to your desired cruise setting. No more creosicles.

 

[RockyMtMan]

I am new here, but been having all kinds of fun reading and learning from everyone's posts. I been burning wood for at least 20yrs in a old Nordic Erik Jr. Was a great stove, but started trying to slow burn in it and had creosote problems like crazy. Just switched to a BK Ashford about 3wks ago. I am totally amazed. I can now load it and keep the house at 70degs. Not this up and down Temp stuff. My wife loves it, now I feel like we can totally heat by wood. Thanks all and can't wait to learn more and talk burning wood. I did wonder how often does a person need to clean the flue when burning 24/7?

 

[Highbeam]

During that bake period, flue temps will be approaching redline. Especially with sappy softwoods. I personally will shorten the bake period to prevent overtemping the flue.

 

[ratsrepus]

I thought this wont work?

 

[stoveliker]

I presume that a 40 ft stack would overcome a lot. Once it's warm. Starting it might be a problem though (preheating might just result in warm air in that U, and the rest coming back out the stove).

 

[Diabel]

Or bake out, or just the "bake" What you got is a box full of desirable new fuel under 20% MC, but closed up inside a steel box at 600 degrees F. The last of that water is getting baked out now. Takes about half an hour. Leave the thermostat, the throttle at full, top of the swoosh, let it thunder while that free water gets baked out.

I hope you are correct. If I run my firebox for 30min using my hemlock (dry) I will peg the cat meter way past its upper limit, I will see the flue probe meter around 800*F and my burn will be much shorter. But in order to eliminate water/condensation accumulate in my T I will try it again. Hopefully, my meters read high.

 

[Diabel]

I thought this wont work?

What? That is something…

 

[stoveliker]

I hope you are correct. If I run my firebox for 30min using my hemlock (dry) I will peg the cat meter way past its upper limit, I will see the flue probe meter around 800*F and my burn will be much shorter. But in order to eliminate water/condensation accumulate in my T I will try it again. Hopefully, my meters read high.

I had asked about flue probe readings, and someone said that the char should not be above 900 F. So your 800 seems ok (if the 900 is ok...)

I have deceased my char time for very dry wood too - in view of burn times. But I'm not sure I can see a difference (success in Tetris may be more dictating than 10 minutes shorter charring?)

 

[Diabel]

I had asked about flue probe readings, and someone said that the char should not be above 900 F. So your 800 seems ok (if the 900 is ok...)

I have deceased my char time for very dry wood too - in view of burn times. But I'm not sure I can see a difference (success in Tetris may be more dictating than 10 minutes shorter charring?)

I will do as mentioned again this weekend. Will char the crap out of the load. And see what happens. Will babysit the stove for sometime……heck reminds me of my old days with the VC (kidding).

Granted, it does get very cold here at the lake, pipe is very exposed and the stove is running low and slow 95% of the burn.

 

[Poindexter]

I hope you are correct. If I run my firebox for 30min using my hemlock (dry) I will peg the cat meter way past its upper limit, I will see the flue probe meter around 800*F and my burn will be much shorter. But in order to eliminate water/condensation accumulate in my T I will try it again. Hopefully, my meters read high.

Kinda out on a limb here. IIRC my neighbor up here said 19%, maybe "under 19%." I agree with my spruce at 15% or your remarkably dry hemlock bake down doesn't take 30 minutes. And a flue gas temp probe I think is a good idea for anyone running fuel consistently at or under 16%.

But for Joe Hoemowner at or near 20% MC fuel, 30 minutes for bakedown should be about right with no flue gas temp monitor required, ass/u/me-ing a chimney that isn't hopeless.

 

[Diabel]

Kinda out on a limb here. IIRC my neighbor up here said 19%, maybe "under 19%." I agree with my spruce at 15% or your remarkably dry hemlock bake down doesn't take 30 minutes. And a flue gas temp probe I think is a good idea for anyone running fuel consistently at or under 16%.

But for Joe Hoemowner at or near 20% MC fuel, 30 minutes for bakedown should be about right with no flue gas temp monitor required, ass/u/me-ing a chimney that isn't hopeless.

Thank you. I think I understand.
@Poindexter are you saying that using your way you have no ice forming around the bottom end of your chimney cap?

 

[Poindexter]

Thank you. I think I understand.
@Poindexter are you saying that using your way you have no ice forming around the bottom end of your chimney cap?

I _rarely_ have creo-sicles on my stack. When it gets down to -45, -50dF even with the stove running wide open throttle 24/7 I will see some ice build up, but once we get back up into the -30s and I get the house warmed back up, no more ice on the stack.

 

[Diabel]

I _rarely_ have creo-sicles on my stack. When it gets down to -45, -50dF even with the stove running wide open throttle 24/7 I will see some ice build up, but once we get back up into the -30s and I get the house warmed back up, no more ice on the stack.

It seems like you run your BK very hard.