Is three yrs standard for bk gaskets full time use?
Hope not....
Yes, it is a challenge for any stove owner when there is a 20+ swing in outside temp and a lot of solar gain during the day. We've hit 75º inside which is tshirt time for me, but my wife loves it too. In a few months though she will complain when it's 77º outside.Definitely an interesting time of year for a rookie princess owner. Even on a low simmer I came home the other day and it was 77. Wife was nice and cozy though and didn’t even notice it. Left the door open for about an hour and it cooled off for a little bit. Making smaller fires and no reloading in the am seems to be working pretty good. Still a few coals left to get things going.
You guys and your warm climates and heat pumps. We’ve still got months of burning left. Snow is in the forecast. We insulated so there’s no significant solar gain even when the sun does come out.
Don’t forget to burn her hot a few times before shutting down for the summer. Convert the firebox goo into something flakey that can be cleaned.
I got a few more fires left here, what I do know is that I'm either one or two wheel barrel loads away from being done, going to miss it when its over this year, normally I'm tired of burning by the end of the season, this year.. just didnt seem that bad and the heat was really nice.Last fire of the season.
Remove that front wall / blocker and take your offset up to the ceiling support box. If you keep the wall there then you'll need class A pipe all the way down (supported) to were there's a visible break, then transition to double wall black pipe.If I’m installing a BK Ashford 30.2, and it’s in a alcove type install. Keeping all the clearances, I know it needs a blower in alcoves. I would still like it to be 1/2 out of the alcove. Could I offset with double wall stove pipe 45s back to keep in my cathedral ceiling alcove ? The stove is a top flue only if I’m right. But was mentioned need to rise up 2’ before an offset?
I wish I could ken, my wife doesn’t like the full pipe to ceiling look and she a strong willed woman. for a number of reasons she wants it enclosed as low as possible.Remove that front wall / blocker and take your offset up to the ceiling support box. If you keep the wall there then you'll need class A pipe all the way down (supported) to were there's a visible break, then transition to double wall black pipe.
The alcove will have a cieling height +-6' below is double wall stove pipe. Above is all fuel pipe. Attic space will keep me from doing what you said. Thanks for the idea though.2 ft minimum straight vertical before any bends indeed.
You can check the manual for the required height when not going straight up.
If you have to keep that alcove, make an opening at the top (e.g. with a register) so you can convect out the heat from there. And a ceiling fan to bring it down.
The alcove will have a cieling height +-6' below is double wall stove pipe. Above is all fuel pipe. Attic space will keep me from doing what you said. Thanks for the idea though.
Sketch is a little simplified. Behind alcove is bedrooms with 8' ceilings then attic above. Really can't as back of upper alcove is attic.I meant to convect the heat out into the room (not outside or the attic, of course). Your sketch will result in a nice pocket of unused hot air in the alcove.
Is disconnecting the flue to clean behind the bypass a normal thing either all BKs ? Or is there an easier way ? Collapsible double wall parts ? Would need to disconnect to clean flue anyways?I have not followed nor read this thread in detail. Just make sure the stove meets/exceeds all the distance requirements, invest in side heat shields, blower, make sure you put electrical outlet at the back wall. The blowers are pretty laud when running at full speed and from your pic you will need them running hard. As per bk, the two feet vertical from the stove up is there for a reason. If you get undesired stove performance like smoke spillage for example do not complain (btw it will be the wife who will complain in most cases......hahah). You will need to disconnect your flue every time you need to clean behind the bypass. Just some friendly points. Cheers
Telescopic pipe is the way to go. In your potential set up it will not be possible if you go 45* right off the stove. Disconnecting the pipe is not the end of the world but messy.Is disconnecting the flue to clean behind the bypass a normal thing either all BKs ? Or is there an easier way ? Collapsible double wall parts ? Would need to disconnect to clean flue anyways?
Add a forward sloping block-off plate right at lintel level and it may not need a blower. You could also add a vent higher up on the wall to vent heat out of the chase. ( it could vent into BR3) Is there a ceiling fan planned for the stove room? That would help. The MB bath is going to be the coldest. It could be supplemented with a heated towel rack or a ducted blower system could pull cool air out of the bath and blow it into the stove room. That would pull heat from the stove room thru the MBr and into the MB bath.If I’m installing a BK Ashford 30.2, and it’s in a alcove type install. Keeping all the clearances, I know it needs a blower in alcoves. I would still like it to be 1/2 out of the alcove. Could I offset with double wall stove pipe 45s back to keep in my cathedral ceiling alcove ? The stove is a top flue only if I’m right. But was mentioned need to rise up 2’ before an offset?
Add a forward sloping block-off plate right at lintel level and it may not need a blower. You could also add a vent higher up on the wall to vent heat out of the chase. ( it could vent into BR3) Is there a ceiling fan planned for the stove room? That would help. The MB bath is going to be the coldest. It could be supplemented with a heated towel rack or a ducted blower system could pull cool air out of the bath and blow it into the stove room. That would pull heat from the stove room thru the MBr and into the MB bath.
You’re idea might work if it would be ok with building inspector or I wait till I get final inspection and do it after. Which with Begreens idea of ducting from my Master Bath back into my cathedral room to pull warm air through open doors to the bedroom/ bath !That vent (and ceiling fan) is what I had suggested earlier, but it is my understanding based on the response that the sketch is not complete and the vent would not be possible.
Rip a nice hot fire in there to bake that creo into nice flaky bits, then try a bottle brush or something similar. That's what i've threaded through there to break up some of it. I don't get it all, but i can get some. Having a real good ripping hot fire first is key. Last fire in the stove for the season should be wide open to clean the guts up!Since burning season is slowly coming to an end down here, does anyone have good advice on how to clean behind the metal side shields in the firebox that hold the firebricks on the sides? It looks like there is quite a bit of flaky black residue behind them, but I have not found a way to reach there. Or is it not necessary?
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