I did my break in fire like this, built a normal fire with smaller sticks and kindling, a few larger splits on top (not filling the box to the max) lit the fire with the by-pass open and the air control turned all the way to the max, let the fire get established (20-30min) then closed the by-pass, still keeping the t-stat on its max, after about 15min I turned the t-stat air control to half way and let the fire go do its thing. There really isnt moisture to drive out, its more or less baking off the paint (smell factor) and just seeing the stove function, after doing 2 or 3 of those types of fires I started to experiment with stove settings, burning low , burning high, seeing what kind of functions the stove has. (its a bit of a learning curve, as other said, you will find that lower burns will still give out a higher level of heat since the cat placement on the stove is designed to extract the heat and transfer it to the stove top, unlike other stoves.
The main basic take aways I've found are: always start the fire with the by-pass open, always start with the t-stat air control fully opened, the cat will be hyper active for the first few weeks, meaning the needle on the cat probe will pin to the 4 to 6 o'clock area, even with no flames in the fire box, the by-pass is a 2 part click since there is a cam shaft, this may need to be adjusted after a few burns with the metal heating up and cooling, but some people don't need to adjust it. After a few burns you might discover that the stove likes having ash in the base, my princess likes at least 1" of ash, it heats up much quicker then an empty fire box.
All drafts are different, its the draft that drives the stove, my minimum t-stat air setting is 10 o'clock, anything less the stove will stall, yours might be different due to different factors.