2020-21 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

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Anyone know if there is any scrap or recycle value to these catalysts after they get retired?
Interesting question. They are basically the same as automotive catalysts, a ceramic matrix plated with noble metals like Rh, Pt, etc. In the automotive world, those are very sought after for recycling. You could ask your local scrapyard if they want it.
 
And by definition the catalyst is still fully present. It doesn’t go away, just becomes plated over or flattens out. The tweakers steal cats from cars so there must be a market.

The actual precious metals might be slightly different than automotive cats.
 
Chemically speaking, not all that much different. After all, they are (among other reactions) supposed to burn CO with excess oxygen to CO2, just like a combustion engine.
And the precious metals plating does evaporate a bit over time, but not by much. You're right that "catalyst poisoning", the cover-up with inactive material, is the main reason they lose efficiency.
 
Timely question about disposal of the old cat. I was wondering what to do with my old one, as I ordered a new cat for the King tonight, along with a gasket. I have been too busy to cut a stick of wood yet, but have been promised a log truck load of tamarack. It is supposed to be dropped in the driveway. I do not mind cutting when it is cold, so I am hoping this logger comes through for me. I have about 2 cord left from last year and need 6.
 
There is some value if you have hundreds. We don't have enough annually to try...

"snickers" @BKVP with the long burn times of these stoves, I could see how you figured that out.
 
Don’t wait until it’s cold. Do your break in fires now. That way you can open windows if needed to vent any stink you might get. Also, if something doesn’t work right you can deal with it before it’s cold out.


Okay, that sounds like a good idea.
After reading the manual, there are no suggestions of how to break in the stove. Does it matter how I do that? Smaller fire first (few times)? Other ideas?

I know it's not a new car, but I do want to properly care for this thing :)
 
I did my break in fire like this, built a normal fire with smaller sticks and kindling, a few larger splits on top (not filling the box to the max) lit the fire with the by-pass open and the air control turned all the way to the max, let the fire get established (20-30min) then closed the by-pass, still keeping the t-stat on its max, after about 15min I turned the t-stat air control to half way and let the fire go do its thing. There really isnt moisture to drive out, its more or less baking off the paint (smell factor) and just seeing the stove function, after doing 2 or 3 of those types of fires I started to experiment with stove settings, burning low , burning high, seeing what kind of functions the stove has. (its a bit of a learning curve, as other said, you will find that lower burns will still give out a higher level of heat since the cat placement on the stove is designed to extract the heat and transfer it to the stove top, unlike other stoves.
The main basic take aways I've found are: always start the fire with the by-pass open, always start with the t-stat air control fully opened, the cat will be hyper active for the first few weeks, meaning the needle on the cat probe will pin to the 4 to 6 o'clock area, even with no flames in the fire box, the by-pass is a 2 part click since there is a cam shaft, this may need to be adjusted after a few burns with the metal heating up and cooling, but some people don't need to adjust it. After a few burns you might discover that the stove likes having ash in the base, my princess likes at least 1" of ash, it heats up much quicker then an empty fire box.
All drafts are different, its the draft that drives the stove, my minimum t-stat air setting is 10 o'clock, anything less the stove will stall, yours might be different due to different factors.
 
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I did my break in fire like this, built a normal fire with smaller sticks and kindling, a few larger splits on top (not filling the box to the max) lit the fire with the by-pass open and the air control turned all the way to the max, let the fire get established (20-30min) then closed the by-pass, still keeping the t-stat on its max, after about 15min I turned the t-stat air control to half way and let the fire go do its thing. There really isnt moisture to drive out, its more or less baking off the paint (smell factor) and just seeing the stove function, after doing 2 or 3 of those types of fires I started to experiment with stove settings, burning low , burning high, seeing what kind of functions the stove has. (its a bit of a learning curve, as other said, you will find that lower burns will still give out a higher level of heat since the cat placement on the stove is designed to extract the heat and transfer it to the stove top, unlike other stoves.
The main basic take aways I've found are: always start the fire with the by-pass open, always start with the t-stat air control fully opened, the cat will be hyper active for the first few weeks, meaning the needle on the cat probe will pin to the 4 to 6 o'clock area, even with no flames in the fire box, the by-pass is a 2 part click since there is a cam shaft, this may need to be adjusted after a few burns with the metal heating up and cooling, but some people don't need to adjust it. After a few burns you might discover that the stove likes having ash in the base, my princess likes at least 1" of ash, it heats up much quicker then an empty fire box.
All drafts are different, its the draft that drives the stove, my minimum t-stat air setting is 10 o'clock, anything less the stove will stall, yours might be different due to different factors.

ok, thanks. That reads just like what the manual says about starting a general fire.
The first few (as you say) on medium - and then the playing can begin. Given that I'll still be working at home this winter, there'll be plenty of time to play and observe :)
 
And don't be surprised if you get a burnt smell in the house the first fire, that's the paint on the stove and pipe curing and doesn't happen anymore later on.
 
So, I got myself a brand-spanking-new BK Chinook 30 installed this summer (after having removed an old DutchWest cat stove mysefl). The chimney will be swept/cleaned this afternoon, and I can't wait for the first time that I can't contain myself with "it's still too warm to fire up this thing"...

This weekend I'll be reading the manual and whatever else came with the stove. BUT, I'd appreciate any advice you may have, in particular for a first time fire, and the Chinook 30. (I do have cat stove experience, but of course can still learn in general there too.)

thanks all for the great content I spend hours and hours on :)
I'm on my 5th year with a Chinook 30.
It's a great stove.
 
I know this has been covered, but a search using the work "catalyst" gives so many responses I cant find it

Which brand of replacement catalyst for a BK princess has had the best results longevity wise? I see Candor and Midwest hearth brands on Amazon. Ive also heard of SteelCat.

I think mine is ok, but its the cat I learned this stove on it has been hit with some mistakes like opening the door with bypass closed, so I would like to have a new replacement on hand just in case.

Thanks in advance guys, cant wait to get the first fire lit here soon in northeast PA .
 
Midwest sells the OEM Combustor made by Applied Ceramics. They have enlisted Midwest to help. We do not recommend Condor combustors.

Steel cat is a division of Applied Ceramics that makes metal substrate combustors.
 
I know this has been covered, but a search using the work "catalyst" gives so many responses I cant find it

Which brand of replacement catalyst for a BK princess has had the best results longevity wise? I see Candor and Midwest hearth brands on Amazon. Ive also heard of SteelCat.

I think mine is ok, but its the cat I learned this stove on it has been hit with some mistakes like opening the door with bypass closed, so I would like to have a new replacement on hand just in case.

Thanks in advance guys, cant wait to get the first fire lit here soon in northeast PA .

I’ll add that no brand or type gets any better life than the other. My last few have been from Midwest, ceramics, and have fit and worked perfectly for their expected life. Price is great, delivery fast, and the gasket is preinstalled for quick replacement.

Condar makes great thermometers.
 
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Midwest sells the OEM Combustor made by Applied Ceramics. They have enlisted Midwest to help. We do not recommend Condor combustors.

Steel cat is a division of Applied Ceramics that makes metal substrate combustors.

Thanks a bunch, perfect knowing the Midwest ones are OEM. I only burn about 1.5 cord a year so this next one is hopefully a long term purchase.

Thanks @Highbeam too
 
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While i am checking my bypass in last few days, I discovered that the bolt that tensions the bypass plate had come loose. I removed it using a light oil and coated it with anti-seize . If you do this, be careful not to break the bolt.
 
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And secure the lock nut to prevent loosening. Good job.
 
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@BKVP just out of curiosity, whats the difference between a new Princess 32 and my 2015 year princess 30? The website makes it seem like its more efficient but a smaller firebox if im remembering correctly
 
@BKVP just out of curiosity, whats the difference between a new Princess 32 and my 2015 year princess 30? The website makes it seem like its more efficient but a smaller firebox if im remembering correctly
We never made a 30 Princess. The precursor to the 32 was 1006.

Anyway, the test method changed. The results are not comparable. There were some proprietary changes, but if I had a need, I'd buy both!!
 
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I’ll add that no brand or type gets any better life than the other. My last few have been from Midwest, ceramics, and have fit and worked perfectly for their expected life. Price is great, delivery fast, and the gasket is preinstalled for quick replacement.

Condar makes great thermometers.
This is not entirely correct. We test combustors all the time for an EPA Combustor Equivalency protocol. We find all sorts of variability as far as lifetime effectiveness. Some show diminished capacity at as little as 200 hours.

You may be correct for the combustors you have purchased and used but your assumption that "no brand or type" doesn't take into account others you have not purchased/tried.
 
Where does a person go to purchase a replacement steel combustor if Midwest Hearth is sold out?


When you go to their website and select replacement combustor for the 30 boxes, this is the one that pops up (even though after you click on it, it says it's for the princess).
 
Glad you put this question out there. I was taking a look online at FireCat combustors for new cats, and was wondering whether I could put a ceramic in my Sirocco 30.1. The FireCat website redirected me to Midwest Hearth's website, which then told me that they were out of stock of metal combustors.

Anyone know whether these 30 boxes can take ceramic? Any ideas on where besides FireCat we can get metal?
Did you find anything out?
 
Where does a person go to purchase a replacement steel combustor if Midwest Hearth is sold out?


When you go to their website and select replacement combustor for the 30 boxes, this is the one that pops up (even though after you click on it, it says it's for the princess).
Also Interested
 
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