2020-21 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

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Where is ashfull ??
seems odd he has’nt posted in a long time..

He is probably not burning yet, probably is out sailing. I haven't had a single snowflake on my driveway yet, no snow in the seven day forecast and only one hard frost so far. The potato and leek in the garden are still going strong up here.
 
Where is ashfull ??
seems odd he has’nt posted in a long time..
Yea, he prob wont be around till the boat is out of the water (I think he's teaching his son all about sailing), the proper way to do it, which takes a lot time, it can be pretty dangerous if you don't know your knots or weather.
 
I own an A30 free stander, but I will take a crack at these.



The firebox on my A30 is a bit bigger than the firebox on your A25, thus the different model numbers.

At the top end, I can burn down a full load of dry spruce at 14%MC in four hours. This is during weather I think of as very cold in the north half of Alaska, and the combustor stays in the active zone.

I would _expect_ in Mass with decent dry hardwood like black locust at +/- 20%, 3 hours of active cat is not unreasonable; but you ought to be pretty warm. As below, a blockoff plate might be helpful

At this point I will immediately defer to any of our East Coast regulars who have experience with black locust and red maple. Also any of our global members who have experience with any of the 25 boxes, or the 20 boxes, or the 24 box.

The main thing you will have to learn for yourself is, I think, about coaling stage. Different woods will make coals for different amounts of time. I like spruce because the coaling stage is very short. In "cold" weather I can do a 12 burn on medium during the day, do another 12 hour burn on medium over night and keep the combustor active essentially from Nov to Feb. In "very cold" weather I can work in a third 4 burn on high right when I get home from work, with a morning and evening reload set to medium. In both of these situations I do not have an ever growing pile of red hot coals taking up room in my firebox, I just have plenty of room for the next load to be nice and fat.



"Blasting" is a subjective term. Are the fans on the inserts factory installed or installer installed? I don't know . On the high setting I can definitely hear mine running, and feel a little bit of air coming out the top/front of the stove. On low I can hear them if I am listening for them, but can't really feel any air moving. The thing about the fans is what happens to the airtemperature at the far end of the house with the fans off or on. That is where my fans make a difference, not in the stove room but in the rooms furthest away from the stove room.



If anyone on this site was ever advised they did not need (would not benefit from) a block off plate I didn't see the post go by.



It's coming, don't worry. They last south bound Canada goose I saw fly by was more than a week ago.

Thank you for all of your responses - it's much appreciated. I guess my main concern is I kind of expected if I'm running the stove on high with the fan it should send me out of the room it's so hot. This is not what I experienced my first few burns. This is why I thought the fan might not be working - but the way you described your fan is exactly how mine works.

Just curious what temps you guys usually get the room your stove is in up to? I know every set up is completely different but I was thinking that room would easily get up to 80 . . I'm going to test the temp next burn . . unfortunately it looks like I'm a few weeks away from that.
 
Unless i am missing something....if the gasket does not pass the dollar bill test then it is leaking and needs to be replaced. I just did the dollar bill test on my VC bypass door and it is tight. Will do the same on the Princess next time I am there. I am hoping it will be tight, it would be a bummer if it fails given how little i use that stove.
I did check the gaskets on my BK. Happy to report, all nice and tight. Also, zero play on the glass.
 
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Thank you for all of your responses - it's much appreciated. I guess my main concern is I kind of expected if I'm running the stove on high with the fan it should send me out of the room it's so hot. This is not what I experienced my first few burns. This is why I thought the fan might not be working - but the way you described your fan is exactly how mine works.

Just curious what temps you guys usually get the room your stove is in up to? I know every set up is completely different but I was thinking that room would easily get up to 80 . . I'm going to test the temp next burn . . unfortunately it looks like I'm a few weeks away from that.

I think you answered your own question when you said every set up will be different. In my house, I can easily get the stove room to 28*C in the dead of winter (-30 or -40*C outside) with leaky windows and the stove on high. It's not a very big room (30' x 12' ish), and i run mostly jack pine and white birch through my stove. If you want to burn full loads on a high setting, you'll get some good heat. But wood quality, size of room, how well insulated your house is, outside temp., how you're operating your stove etc. - all of these things will come into play. Don't try to compare your set up with other folks' - just focus on finding your sweet spots on your stove, and how to get repeatable results that meet your heating demands and make a note of those spots on your dial.

On another note, I find that the fans do make a tremendous difference in my application for getting the heat out into the rest of the house quickly when it's cold. But, they change how my loads burn a bit, and overall burn times. All things you fiddle with and figure out. Happy burning!
 
Thank you for all of your responses - it's much appreciated. I guess my main concern is I kind of expected if I'm running the stove on high with the fan it should send me out of the room it's so hot. This is not what I experienced my first few burns. This is why I thought the fan might not be working - but the way you described your fan is exactly how mine works.

Just curious what temps you guys usually get the room your stove is in up to? I know every set up is completely different but I was thinking that room would easily get up to 80 . . I'm going to test the temp next burn . . unfortunately it looks like I'm a few weeks away from that.

I have a hard time believing that an insert, especially the ashford insert, is going to heat as well as a freestander but you still should be able to stay warm. We can easily get the stove room to 80 with single digits outside temperatures using a freestanding BK. 1963 built home.

When you are running on high, is the thermostat ever satisfied? Meaning, do the flames die off during the burn in response to the thermostat saying that the stove is up to max temp and closing the throttle blade? If not, I suspect that there are things you can do.
 
I have a hard time believing that an insert, especially the ashford insert, is going to heat as well as a freestander but you still should be able to stay warm. We can easily get the stove room to 80 with single digits outside temperatures using a freestanding BK. 1963 built home.

When you are running on high, is the thermostat ever satisfied? Meaning, do the flames die off during the burn in response to the thermostat saying that the stove is up to max temp and closing the throttle blade? If not, I suspect that there are things you can do.

Yea the thermostat was well into the active red area. Also by throttle blade do you mean bypass? Thanks again I'm getting so antsy waiting to burn again . . .
 
I think you answered your own question when you said every set up will be different. In my house, I can easily get the stove room to 28*C in the dead of winter (-30 or -40*C outside) with leaky windows and the stove on high. It's not a very big room (30' x 12' ish), and i run mostly jack pine and white birch through my stove. If you want to burn full loads on a high setting, you'll get some good heat. But wood quality, size of room, how well insulated your house is, outside temp., how you're operating your stove etc. - all of these things will come into play. Don't try to compare your set up with other folks' - just focus on finding your sweet spots on your stove, and how to get repeatable results that meet your heating demands and make a note of those spots on your dial.

On another note, I find that the fans do make a tremendous difference in my application for getting the heat out into the rest of the house quickly when it's cold. But, they change how my loads burn a bit, and overall burn times. All things you fiddle with and figure out. Happy burning!

Thanks - I realize I need to be more patient and keep testing everything. I just need some cold weather now
 
Yea the thermostat was well into the active red area. Also by throttle blade do you mean bypass? Thanks again I'm getting so antsy waiting to burn again . . .

Okay so that gauge thing with a needle is not a thermostat. It's an on/off idiot light style gauge that only is there so you know when to engage the catalyst. It's of no value after that.

Your stove has a thermostat that regulates the intake air based on the selected stove temperature. You twist the knob to full high and then as the stove gets hotter, the actual intake throttle gets smaller. Almost like cruise control on a car. If your stove was flaming the whole time it probably never got hot enough for the thermostat to start easing off the throttle. Full loads of dry fuel and enough chimney to provide the required draft are the ways to get the stove hot enough for the thermostat to say whoa, and keep things safe.

Since you are complaining of a lack of heat then the usual suspect is insufficient fuel and fuel of low quality. Given the time of year you may have weak draft as well.

There are not many users of these big window inserts on this site but no other brand offers a catalytic insert with a thermostat so we're the best you've got!
 
Looks like many of us will be lighting up come the tail end of this week!
 
i just lit my first fire today - sooo nice :)
 
Okay so that gauge thing with a needle is not a thermostat. It's an on/off idiot light style gauge that only is there so you know when to engage the catalyst. It's of no value after that.

Your stove has a thermostat that regulates the intake air based on the selected stove temperature. You twist the knob to full high and then as the stove gets hotter, the actual intake throttle gets smaller. Almost like cruise control on a car. If your stove was flaming the whole time it probably never got hot enough for the thermostat to start easing off the throttle. Full loads of dry fuel and enough chimney to provide the required draft are the ways to get the stove hot enough for the thermostat to say whoa, and keep things safe.

Since you are complaining of a lack of heat then the usual suspect is insufficient fuel and fuel of low quality. Given the time of year you may have weak draft as well.

There are not many users of these big window inserts on this site but no other brand offers a catalytic insert with a thermostat so we're the best you've got!
@Highbeam
Very good explanation regarding the thermostat. I have never yet ran mine on high for the full burn cycle, so i had no idea how it actually works. Cheers!
 
i just lit my first fire today - sooo nice :)
Enjoy! It is still 26 and humid here! Rain comes tomorrow and then the cold....
 
@Highbeam
Very good explanation regarding the thermostat. I have never yet ran mine on high for the full burn cycle, so i had no idea how it actually works. Cheers!

Thanks. I've only ever run on high for the one hour clean out that BKVP suggested but that was plenty of time to see the thermostat close up the intake system due to hitting the high limit. I didn't like running at max like that, seems to be wasteful. Less efficient, smokier, and just at the top limit of safety isn't where I want to cruise with this valuable appliance. When looking for max output I instead run a bit longer at a setting closer to 3/4 and with the fans ripping.
 
Thanks. I've only ever run on high for the one hour clean out that BKVP suggested but that was plenty of time to see the thermostat close up the intake system due to hitting the high limit. I didn't like running at max like that, seems to be wasteful. Less efficient, smokier, and just at the top limit of safety isn't where I want to cruise with this valuable appliance. When looking for max output I instead run a bit longer at a setting closer to 3/4 and with the fans ripping.
Now this right here is some valuable advice, especially for newer BK burners. My first year I let the stove rip wide open more often than not, and fed it accordingly. However, with more tinkering and experimenting, I realized after that that I could achieve same heat in the house at a lower setting with the fans and save wood, a lot of wood.

Good one Highbeam :)
 
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Thank you for all of your responses - it's much appreciated. I guess my main concern is I kind of expected if I'm running the stove on high with the fan it should send me out of the room it's so hot. This is not what I experienced my first few burns. This is why I thought the fan might not be working - but the way you described your fan is exactly how mine works.

Just curious what temps you guys usually get the room your stove is in up to? I know every set up is completely different but I was thinking that room would easily get up to 80 . . I'm going to test the temp next burn . . unfortunately it looks like I'm a few weeks away from that.


I _think_ you have the same firebox as a Boxer24 freestanding stove. Three hours at full throttle would be about all I would expect. It should roast you out of a reasonably sized room doing it.
 
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Okay so that gauge thing with a needle is not a thermostat. It's an on/off idiot light style gauge that only is there so you know when to engage the catalyst. It's of no value after that.

Your stove has a thermostat that regulates the intake air based on the selected stove temperature. You twist the knob to full high and then as the stove gets hotter, the actual intake throttle gets smaller. Almost like cruise control on a car. If your stove was flaming the whole time it probably never got hot enough for the thermostat to start easing off the throttle. Full loads of dry fuel and enough chimney to provide the required draft are the ways to get the stove hot enough for the thermostat to say whoa, and keep things safe.

Since you are complaining of a lack of heat then the usual suspect is insufficient fuel and fuel of low quality. Given the time of year you may have weak draft as well.

There are not many users of these big window inserts on this site but no other brand offers a catalytic insert with a thermostat so we're the best you've got!
Okay so that gauge thing with a needle is not a thermostat. It's an on/off idiot light style gauge that only is there so you know when to engage the catalyst. It's of no value after that.

Your stove has a thermostat that regulates the intake air based on the selected stove temperature. You twist the knob to full high and then as the stove gets hotter, the actual intake throttle gets smaller. Almost like cruise control on a car. If your stove was flaming the whole time it probably never got hot enough for the thermostat to start easing off the throttle. Full loads of dry fuel and enough chimney to provide the required draft are the ways to get the stove hot enough for the thermostat to say whoa, and keep things safe.

Since you are complaining of a lack of heat then the usual suspect is insufficient fuel and fuel of low quality. Given the time of year you may have weak draft as well.

There are not many users of these big window inserts on this site but no other brand offers a catalytic insert with a thermostat so we're the best you've got!

Thanks for the feedback.

So even when I have the thermostat set to high the flames should die out or slow down on their own if the stove reaches max temp? I’m pretty sure the only way I could reduce the flame was to turn the thermostat down - so I definitely didn’t get it hot enough. I admit I did not really stuff the firebox seeing as it wasn’t that cold and it was my first burn.
 
Thanks for the feedback.

So even when I have the thermostat set to high the flames should die out or slow down on their own if the stove reaches max temp? I’m pretty sure the only way I could reduce the flame was to turn the thermostat down - so I definitely didn’t get it hot enough. I admit I did not really stuff the firebox seeing as it wasn’t that cold and it was my first burn.

Yep, the thermostat is also a great safety device. It turns the stove down for you if you forget, fall asleep, or get hauled off to jail before the stove gets so hot that it could hurt something. It tries to hold the max safe temperature so it will regulate that throttle blade to keep her hot.

Later on in winter or even right now if you’re cold, you can stuff this thing to the gills. Lots of us do that for maximum burn time. I also fill my fuel tank in my truck to the top.
 
Where did you pick up a roll? So far I have only managed to locate pre-cut pieces.
sorry for the late response, been in northern mich for the last week. Let me check the box and Ill get back to you on that.
 
So, I got myself a brand-spanking-new BK Chinook 30 installed this summer (after having removed an old DutchWest cat stove mysefl). The chimney will be swept/cleaned this afternoon, and I can't wait for the first time that I can't contain myself with "it's still too warm to fire up this thing"...

This weekend I'll be reading the manual and whatever else came with the stove. BUT, I'd appreciate any advice you may have, in particular for a first time fire, and the Chinook 30. (I do have cat stove experience, but of course can still learn in general there too.)

thanks all for the great content I spend hours and hours on :)
 
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So, I got myself a brand-spanking-new BK Chinook 30 installed this summer (after having removed an old DutchWest cat stove mysefl). The chimney will be swept/cleaned this afternoon, and I can't wait for the first time that I can't contain myself with "it's still too warm to fire up this thing"...

This weekend I'll be reading the manual and whatever else came with the stove. BUT, I'd appreciate any advice you may have, in particular for a first time fire, and the Chinook 30. (I do have cat stove experience, but of course can still learn in general there too.)

thanks all for the great content I spend hours and hours on :)

Don’t wait until it’s cold. Do your break in fires now. That way you can open windows if needed to vent any stink you might get. Also, if something doesn’t work right you can deal with it before it’s cold out.
 
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Anyone know if there is any scrap or recycle value to these catalysts after they get retired? I can't bear to just throw the old one away if there is another option.
 
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