2020-21 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[BKVP]

Spinal Tap!!

 

[Highbeam]

Mid 20s tonight, still have snow on the ground, time to load her up. This is Doug fir with a couple of maple chunks too. There was one leftover chunk that I slid to the side. Stove is warm but not hot. I got all of it in except for one. Bottom up kindling fire to be started with the torch in an hour or so after it gets dark.

 

[Nealm66]

Mid 20s tonight, still have snow on the ground, time to load her up. This is Doug fir with a couple of maple chunks too. There was one leftover chunk that I slid to the side. Stove is warm but not hot. I got all of it in except for one. Bottom up kindling fire to be started with the torch in an hour or so after it gets dark. View attachment 270130View attachment 270131

So jealous! Makes me want to lay out my three press logs for a pity party

 

[Highbeam]

So jealous! Makes me want to lay out my three press logs for a pity party

You know, you can stuff way more than three in there. I think I was up to 7-8 niels at a time when I tried them out. Think of the firebox as a fuel tank. Fill her up and choose a burn rate.

 

[Nealm66]

Speaking of which, after 3 days of only press logs = not a good alternative. I cut a half cord of fir today and got it on a rack in the stove room so will check it in a month and see. I think if they could make those press logs so a guy could stuff his stove with them and not worry about over firing from they’re initial extreme heat that lasts 1-2 hours, they wouldn’t be too bad.

 

[Nealm66]

You know, you can stuff way more than three in there. I think I was up to 7-8 niels at a time when I tried them out. Think of the firebox as a fuel tank. Fill her up and choose a burn rate.

Really? I’ve been warned against it

 

[kennyp2339]

I think if they could make those press logs so a guy could stuff his stove with them and not worry about over firing from they’re initial extreme heat that lasts 1-2 hours, they wouldn’t be too bad.

I threw in a 25lbs of those press logs, T stat will keep you from over firing, once you get some fire on them and an active cat, turn the t stat down a little and let nature take its course

 

[Nealm66]

That just made my day. I’ve been wondering what I was going to do when I ran out of the little bit of fir I have. Thank you!

 

[Highbeam]

Really? I’ve been warned against it

By who? Surely not by someone with experience burning them in a BK. There are some junky sawdust logs that have wax or are somehow low density that puff way up when they burn. I’ve only burned the Niels and there was no burst of uncontrollable heat. The BK stove design is actually pretty great for the NIels. They make just as much smoke as dry fir. Not zero all the time but certainly acceptable when you’re not trying to be super stealth, My main goal was trying to burn more stealthily than with firewood and that’s not what happened. But warm, controllable, and long burning, yes.

I would totally burn Niels if dry firewood was not available.

 

[Nealm66]

By Niels, you mean northern Idaho energy logs? Just to be sure. I have those. Sorry for my ignorance. I’ve only burned with an old stove that never cared

 

[lsucet]

By Niels, you mean northern Idaho energy logs? Just to be sure. I have those. Sorry for my ignorance. I’ve only burned with an old stove that never cared

you got it. That's for what it stands for.

 

[Bill in the U.P.]

Now that we are getting into colder weather, I need to get more heat out of the King. How important is it to keep the needle in the white area at the top end of the combustion range? I keep trying to set it so it is very near the top end of the range but I overshoot quite often. The stove doesn't seem to be in any distress when I overshoot but I would appreciate hearing from more experienced burners about how high they run their Blaze Kings. Thanks in advance.

 

[Highbeam]

By Niels, you mean northern Idaho energy logs? Just to be sure. I have those. Sorry for my ignorance. I’ve only burned with an old stove that never cared

Yep. It’s a lot to write out. There are other manufactured logs that are probably equivalent. The key is very high density and no junk added.

 

[lsucet]

Now that we are getting into colder weather, I need to get more heat out of the King. How important is it to keep the needle in the white area at the top end of the combustion range? I keep trying to set it so it is very near the top end of the range but I overshoot quite often. The stove doesn't seem to be in any distress when I overshoot but I would appreciate hearing from more experienced burners about how high they run their Blaze Kings. Thanks in advance.

I will use the dial to find a setting that you feel it is giving you the heat you need. The cat prob is more useful to know when the cat is active/inactive.

 

[Highbeam]

Now that we are getting into colder weather, I need to get more heat out of the King. How important is it to keep the needle in the white area at the top end of the combustion range? I keep trying to set it so it is very near the top end of the range but I overshoot quite often. The stove doesn't seem to be in any distress when I overshoot but I would appreciate hearing from more experienced burners about how high they run their Blaze Kings. Thanks in advance.

In theory, according to the manufacturer, if your installation is proper and your stove in good repair, then you can fully ignore the cat meter after it crosses the active line and your bypass is closed. If you need maximum heat then spin that thermostat all the way.

 

[Indianawood]

In theory, according to the manufacturer, if your installation is proper and your stove in good repair, then you can fully ignore the cat meter after it crosses the active line and your bypass is closed. If you need maximum heat then spin that thermostat all the way.

I do that regularly. Im trying to heat 4000+ sqft newer construction. I have to run my stove hotter than most on here. The stove doesn't seem to care

 

[rdust]

Mid 20s tonight, still have snow on the ground, time to load her up. This is Doug fir with a couple of maple chunks too. There was one leftover chunk that I slid to the side. Stove is warm but not hot. I got all of it in except for one. Bottom up kindling fire to be started with the torch in an hour or so after it gets dark. View attachment 270130View attachment 270131

 

[Montanalocal]

NEW BK KE40 BURNER

Hi folks, I am an old wood burner and Hearth reader, but I have recently purchased a new BK KE40 classic. The first thing I did was to read completely through this thread from page 1, and it really helped me get going. I do have one issue that I am working on and it has to do with getting enough heat.

I am in central Montana at 5,000 ft. elevation near the continental divide. I have a 3,700 sq. ft. log home on two levels. It has vaulted ceilings in some parts and a very large amount of glass. So I am asking a lot I know. The stove room is on the first floor, where we do not spend much time. I have two box fans directing heat up a large staircase to the upper living area.

Another problem is our wood. We really only have old standing dead beatle killed Ponderosa Pine here for firewood. It has been dead for a number of years and is quite light. Also, these splits are quite irregular, as P. Pine has a large amount of knots and limbs all up and down the trunk and they have to be split radially around them.

I used the stove that came with the house for the past 30 years, an old Earthlink model 101. It heated the house quite well, but it did smoke, and I went through a lot of wood, about 10 cords per yr. Last heating season I decided to make an upgrade and got a Lopi Liberty. This also heated the house well, but it had two disadvantages. One, it had such a small firebox that I could only put two big splits in, and two, I had to reload about ever hour to an hour and a half. For overnight burning, I had 3 alarm clocks to get me up three different times to reload. Well, one year of that was enough.

I really liked the deep firebox of the 40, and the fact that it could go much longer. I absolutely love this stove and the long heat, and what is even better, it is so even and controllable. However, my dealer warned me that total heat output of the BK would be less than the Lopi, and he was right. The stove makes a good amount of heat, but the problem is getting it out fast enough. The main problem is the wimpy fan. The Lopi fan was at least 2 times more powerful than the BK, and it could really pump out the heat. I have the fan on high all the time, and the thermostat on about three quarters. The thermometer is running right on the edge of the far right black label. It is giving me 8-9 hr. burn times overnight with heavier purchased Lodgepole pine, and about 6 hrs. with the P. Pine. That might not sound like much to you, but I am ecstatic with it.

The problem is that at colder temps, I can not get enough heat out of the stove to keep the whole house warm. What I have done is get a good desk fan and aim it directly at the center of the top of the stove where the catalyst is. This makes a good deal of difference. It makes the stove room really nice and hot, and allows for enough warm air to get blown upstairs to keep it decently warm.

We have not had really cold weather yet and I am concerned when we get down to zero and below that even this will not be enough. Any good suggestions to get more heat?

 

[lsucet]

View attachment 270148

I hate you.

 

[Highbeam]

NEW BK KE40 BURNER

Hi folks, I am an old wood burner and Hearth reader, but I have recently purchased a new BK KE40 classic. The first thing I did was to read completely through this thread from page 1, and it really helped me get going. I do have one issue that I am working on and it has to do with getting enough heat.

I am in central Montana at 5,000 ft. elevation near the continental divide. I have a 3,700 sq. ft. log home on two levels. It has vaulted ceilings in some parts and a very large amount of glass. So I am asking a lot I know. The stove room is on the first floor, where we do not spend much time. I have two box fans directing heat up a large staircase to the upper living area.

Another problem is our wood. We really only have old standing dead beatle killed Ponderosa Pine here for firewood. It has been dead for a number of years and is quite light. Also, these splits are quite irregular, as P. Pine has a large amount of knots and limbs all up and down the trunk and they have to be split radially around them.

I used the stove that came with the house for the past 30 years, an old Earthlink model 101. It heated the house quite well, but it did smoke, and I went through a lot of wood, about 10 cords per yr. Last heating season I decided to make an upgrade and got a Lopi Liberty. This also heated the house well, but it had two disadvantages. One, it had such a small firebox that I could only put two big splits in, and two, I had to reload about ever hour to an hour and a half. For overnight burning, I had 3 alarm clocks to get me up three different times to reload. Well, one year of that was enough.

I really liked the deep firebox of the 40, and the fact that it could go much longer. I absolutely love this stove and the long heat, and what is even better, it is so even and controllable. However, my dealer warned me that total heat output of the BK would be less than the Lopi, and he was right. The stove makes a good amount of heat, but the problem is getting it out fast enough. The main problem is the wimpy fan. The Lopi fan was at least 2 times more powerful than the BK, and it could really pump out the heat. I have the fan on high all the time, and the thermostat on about three quarters. The thermometer is running right on the edge of the far right black label. It is giving me 8-9 hr. burn times overnight with heavier purchased Lodgepole pine, and about 6 hrs. with the P. Pine. That might not sound like much to you, but I am ecstatic with it.

The problem is that at colder temps, I can not get enough heat out of the stove to keep the whole house warm. What I have done is get a good desk fan and aim it directly at the center of the top of the stove where the catalyst is. This makes a good deal of difference. It makes the stove room really nice and hot, and allows for enough warm air to get blown upstairs to keep it decently warm.

We have not had really cold weather yet and I am concerned when we get down to zero and below that even this will not be enough. Any good suggestions to get more heat?

Do you have a reason for only running the thermostat at 3/4 when you want more heat? Of course, the higher the setting, the shorter the burn time so there is a trade off but the owner’s manual does not limit your use of the whole thermostat.

 

[Highbeam]

View attachment 270148

The daughters teased me about the missing spots but I’m home tomorrow so wasn’t interested in splitting wood just to get a more complete fill.

That looks like some dense fuel too.

 

[lsucet]

NEW BK KE40 BURNER

Hi folks, I am an old wood burner and Hearth reader, but I have recently purchased a new BK KE40 classic. The first thing I did was to read completely through this thread from page 1, and it really helped me get going. I do have one issue that I am working on and it has to do with getting enough heat.

I am in central Montana at 5,000 ft. elevation near the continental divide. I have a 3,700 sq. ft. log home on two levels. It has vaulted ceilings in some parts and a very large amount of glass. So I am asking a lot I know. The stove room is on the first floor, where we do not spend much time. I have two box fans directing heat up a large staircase to the upper living area.

Another problem is our wood. We really only have old standing dead beatle killed Ponderosa Pine here for firewood. It has been dead for a number of years and is quite light. Also, these splits are quite irregular, as P. Pine has a large amount of knots and limbs all up and down the trunk and they have to be split radially around them.

I used the stove that came with the house for the past 30 years, an old Earthlink model 101. It heated the house quite well, but it did smoke, and I went through a lot of wood, about 10 cords per yr. Last heating season I decided to make an upgrade and got a Lopi Liberty. This also heated the house well, but it had two disadvantages. One, it had such a small firebox that I could only put two big splits in, and two, I had to reload about ever hour to an hour and a half. For overnight burning, I had 3 alarm clocks to get me up three different times to reload. Well, one year of that was enough.

I really liked the deep firebox of the 40, and the fact that it could go much longer. I absolutely love this stove and the long heat, and what is even better, it is so even and controllable. However, my dealer warned me that total heat output of the BK would be less than the Lopi, and he was right. The stove makes a good amount of heat, but the problem is getting it out fast enough. The main problem is the wimpy fan. The Lopi fan was at least 2 times more powerful than the BK, and it could really pump out the heat. I have the fan on high all the time, and the thermostat on about three quarters. The thermometer is running right on the edge of the far right black label. It is giving me 8-9 hr. burn times overnight with heavier purchased Lodgepole pine, and about 6 hrs. with the P. Pine. That might not sound like much to you, but I am ecstatic with it.

The problem is that at colder temps, I can not get enough heat out of the stove to keep the whole house warm. What I have done is get a good desk fan and aim it directly at the center of the top of the stove where the catalyst is. This makes a good deal of difference. It makes the stove room really nice and hot, and allows for enough warm air to get blown upstairs to keep it decently warm.

We have not had really cold weather yet and I am concerned when we get down to zero and below that even this will not be enough. Any good suggestions to get more heat?

Maybe a little more info about your setup can also help. Maybe you are wasting heat up the chimney etc.

 

[rdust]

The daughters teased me about the missing spots but I’m home tomorrow so wasn’t interested in splitting wood just to get a more complete fill.

That looks like some dense fuel too.

Too much extra work to fill the holes with a couple pounds worth of wood. I only do it when I go for a “photo op”.

 

[Indianawood]

NEW BK KE40 BURNER

Hi folks, I am an old wood burner and Hearth reader, but I have recently purchased a new BK KE40 classic. The first thing I did was to read completely through this thread from page 1, and it really helped me get going. I do have one issue that I am working on and it has to do with getting enough heat.

I am in central Montana at 5,000 ft. elevation near the continental divide. I have a 3,700 sq. ft. log home on two levels. It has vaulted ceilings in some parts and a very large amount of glass. So I am asking a lot I know. The stove room is on the first floor, where we do not spend much time. I have two box fans directing heat up a large staircase to the upper living area.

Another problem is our wood. We really only have old standing dead beatle killed Ponderosa Pine here for firewood. It has been dead for a number of years and is quite light. Also, these splits are quite irregular, as P. Pine has a large amount of knots and limbs all up and down the trunk and they have to be split radially around them.

I used the stove that came with the house for the past 30 years, an old Earthlink model 101. It heated the house quite well, but it did smoke, and I went through a lot of wood, about 10 cords per yr. Last heating season I decided to make an upgrade and got a Lopi Liberty. This also heated the house well, but it had two disadvantages. One, it had such a small firebox that I could only put two big splits in, and two, I had to reload about ever hour to an hour and a half. For overnight burning, I had 3 alarm clocks to get me up three different times to reload. Well, one year of that was enough.

I really liked the deep firebox of the 40, and the fact that it could go much longer. I absolutely love this stove and the long heat, and what is even better, it is so even and controllable. However, my dealer warned me that total heat output of the BK would be less than the Lopi, and he was right. The stove makes a good amount of heat, but the problem is getting it out fast enough. The main problem is the wimpy fan. The Lopi fan was at least 2 times more powerful than the BK, and it could really pump out the heat. I have the fan on high all the time, and the thermostat on about three quarters. The thermometer is running right on the edge of the far right black label. It is giving me 8-9 hr. burn times overnight with heavier purchased Lodgepole pine, and about 6 hrs. with the P. Pine. That might not sound like much to you, but I am ecstatic with it.

The problem is that at colder temps, I can not get enough heat out of the stove to keep the whole house warm. What I have done is get a good desk fan and aim it directly at the center of the top of the stove where the catalyst is. This makes a good deal of difference. It makes the stove room really nice and hot, and allows for enough warm air to get blown upstairs to keep it decently warm.

We have not had really cold weather yet and I am concerned when we get down to zero and below that even this will not be enough. Any good suggestions to get more heat?

I was having same problem. I have a lot of sq ft to heat. I removed the top and fan kit. The fans use 65 to 70 watts for not great air flow. I bought this dc fan on Amazon that uses 23 watt only brings much airflow /heat from the stove.
Im not at all complaining about my BK. I love this thing. Im pushing its limits to heat this many sq ft.

 

[Montanalocal]

Highbeam, I have been a little reluctant to go higher because the temp will go all the way completely around the dial and point straight down. I have seen here that most folks say to disregard the temp, so yes I will gradually turn the thermostat up as I need to.

I would not think I am sending heat up the stack because the stove is brand new and the gaskets should be good. I have been up on the roof and the draft seems to be moderate, but adequate.

Indianwood, why did you remove the top and fan kit. I also purchased an external fan, but I do not understand why you would want to remove the top and fan kit. It provides more surface area and should help with heat transfer, yes?