ajayabb
Burning Hunk
Your alcove looks awesome. Nice setup.
Thanks Randy
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Your alcove looks awesome. Nice setup.
It has been quiet here lately. Either people are not yet burning or things are just right with their VCs.
Has anyone try sweeping their Encores via the bypass door with a soot-eater? Bottom up.
Posted this elsewhere in the forum, but I'm a new VC Encore 2040 owner. Ran a few burns over the past week or so, getting used to running a cat stove. So far so good, but I'm still a little mystified by the thermostatic air control. As I mentioned over there, it seems to have little effect on lowering or raising the griddle temperature. If figured if I want to lower the heat output and have a longer burn time, I'd just turn the air control down to closed. But the griddle temp just stays at 500. From what I'm hearing so far, I guess that's normal? There's no way to adjust it lower--to say 400 or so if I want to cool things down?
The cat probe on the back of the stove seems fine--it's consistently in the middle of the white area, sometimes a little higher--and the griddle temperature hovers at around 500, maybe 550, consistently no matter how much wood I load it with and no matter how the air control is set. So I guess that's all good. Just expected to have a little more control over the burn.
Note that the little door in the back does open and close when I move the air control handle, so it is connected and doing its job, as far as I can tell.
Also, my burn times--with a pretty small sampling so far--are around 2-3 hours, which is another reason I'm thinking it's burning a little hotter than it needs to for my purposes.
Thanks.
Posted this elsewhere in the forum, but I'm a new VC Encore 2040 owner. Ran a few burns over the past week or so, getting used to running a cat stove. So far so good, but I'm still a little mystified by the thermostatic air control. As I mentioned over there, it seems to have little effect on lowering or raising the griddle temperature. If figured if I want to lower the heat output and have a longer burn time, I'd just turn the air control down to closed. But the griddle temp just stays at 500. From what I'm hearing so far, I guess that's normal? There's no way to adjust it lower--to say 400 or so if I want to cool things down?
The cat probe on the back of the stove seems fine--it's consistently in the middle of the white area, sometimes a little higher--and the griddle temperature hovers at around 500, maybe 550, consistently no matter how much wood I load it with and no matter how the air control is set. So I guess that's all good. Just expected to have a little more control over the burn.
Note that the little door in the back does open and close when I move the air control handle, so it is connected and doing its job, as far as I can tell.
Also, my burn times--with a pretty small sampling so far--are around 2-3 hours, which is another reason I'm thinking it's burning a little hotter than it needs to for my purposes.
Thanks.
Buy your friends beerI have a new VC project. Moving a replacement Resolute from my barn into my parents walkout basement. And getting the one that's currently there out. Eventually I'll try to replace the fireback that failed after 30 years. It's about 1/8 of a mile away, and down a flight of stairs.
Any moving tips? I think she weighs about 400 lbs.
or your ash pan door is not closed all the way... or the damper is still openIf you move the right handle all the way from wide open (handle facing forward) to the back (fully closed) it might take few minutes to put out any flames. If you have the same active flame action with the air fully closed, then you have gasket issues.
Welcome. It’s pretty easy to install a cat probe. I suggest the Auber Instruments AT100. You will need to get the K-type thermocoupler with it. The probe access is just above the secondary air probe on the back of the stove. There will be a bolt or push tab that you need to remove first. Then take a drill bit that matches the diameter of the probe you have purchased and by hand drill a hole in the refractory box. Insert the probe in the hole and hook up to the thermometer. The probe from Auber is 6” I believe so if you are running the rear heat shield you will have to drill a hole in that as well and run the probe through that’s heat shield and into the stove. Position the tip of the probe in the middle of the refractory box. There are good tips, mods, and instructions on how to run these stoves in the past several years of the VC owners threads. Read up and happy burning as always feel free to ask any here. The thread has been pretty quiet this year but there are still some guys around to help.
Didn’t I read that it’s a walkout basement? Why not use the walkout and avoid the stairs? Significant relationship damage? Is mom in law pisses you scratched her drywall?We got the Resolute moved last weekend with no damage to the stoves, very minor cosmetic damage to the house, and some significant (but repairable) damage to the relationships.
If anyone ever needs to move a stove down stairs, ask me, I aquired some valuable wisdom that I am unlikely to ever need myself again. In short, get a come-along, heavy-duty hand truck, some ratcheting tie down straps, build a "sled" out of 2x6's, and take the legs off (at least on the Resolute).
Now, I just need to get the old one back up the stairs.
The condar company is just up the road from me in NC. That is where I bought the replacement catalyst. Also purchased their watchman thermometer while I was there. Thanks for the info.Just as Randy said. The 2550 has a removable push tab Having a Cat probe really helps to optimize burns and prevent overfiring of the stove. I have the Condar digital probe thermometer though I know people also love the Auber.
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Is there any sealant required once the probe is inserted? Or is it essentially a press fit?Welcome. It’s pretty easy to install a cat probe. I suggest the Auber Instruments AT100. You will need to get the K-type thermocoupler with it. The probe access is just above the secondary air probe on the back of the stove. There will be a bolt or push tab that you need to remove first. Then take a drill bit that matches the diameter of the probe you have purchased and by hand drill a hole in the refractory box. Insert the probe in the hole and hook up to the thermometer. The probe from Auber is 6” I believe so if you are running the rear heat shield you will have to drill a hole in that as well and run the probe through that’s heat shield and into the stove. Position the tip of the probe in the middle of the refractory box. There are good tips, mods, and instructions on how to run these stoves in the past several years of the VC owners threads. Read up and happy burning as always feel free to ask any here. The thread has been pretty quiet this year but there are still some guys around to help.
It's a semi- walkout. It has windows and a door, but the door opens into a dug out with a retaining wall. That recess into the ground has a set of steps too narrow to fit the stove down. Good to take wood in, though.Didn’t I read that it’s a walkout basement? Why not use the walkout and avoid the stairs? Significant relationship damage? Is mom in law pisses you scratched her drywall?
Gotta love mom though. Even if they get cranky in their elderly years. My mom drives me absolutely nuts a lot of the time.It's a semi- walkout. It has windows and a door, but the door opens into a dug out with a retaining wall. That recess into the ground has a set of steps too narrow to fit the stove down. Good to take wood in, though.
Not MIL, own mother. Long painful story, but the punchline is she said she wasn't going to use the stove at the end.
Do you know anyone with a backhoe or mini excavator? Get the stove just outside the basement stove and strap and lift it out with hydraulics. I would be engineering some macgyver chit to avoid going up the stairs with a 400 lb boat anchor.It's a semi- walkout. It has windows and a door, but the door opens into a dug out with a retaining wall. That recess into the ground has a set of steps too narrow to fit the stove down. Good to take wood in, though.
Not MIL, own mother. Long painful story, but the punchline is she said she wasn't going to use the stove at the end.
If you get the condar I believe it has a 4” probe so what I did (had a condar before my Auber) was used a metal file clip thing (metal clip with the folding wire things) to hold the wire to the back casting. This keeps the probe from moving around. I also used a little stove cement around it but doubt it does any real sealing. I have to take the rear heat shield off this weekend to adjust my secondary timing so I can take a pic and post it.Is there any sealant required once the probe is inserted? Or is it essentially a press fit?
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