2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

[Jeff in Maine]

The cat has a lifespan of about 10,000 hrs. For some folks that is 2.5yrs of 24/7 heating. For others it could be 6 or more years. It depends on the heating season length and how often the stove is used.

I heat from Mid October +/_ till the middle of April. 24/7 for that time period( roughly 6-7 months depending on the temp)

 

[BKVP]

No my wood is stored in my enclosed wood shed attached to the house for months before using it. The firewood for this coming winter has been in under cover now for over a year. I never have any wood go into the stove that has not been staged beside the stove in my kitchen for several days first. I bring into the house a weeks worth of wood all at once the replenish every Sunday morning.

Jeff,

So yes the combustor has a 10- year, 100% no fault warranty. Did you mail in the 10 Year certificate? So the process is simple. Take the wrecked combustor to a dealer, they will contact Francisco in my office. You can ask to have it drop shipped to your home if you like...save a drive.

Now, before anyone blames anyone or anything, please check to see if the door glass is tight within the door frame. Second, if it’s tight, then tell me how long do you leave the door cracked open during start up and reloads. We can work together to isolate the cause...call me Monday at 509-522-2730.

And to all of you....the Federal Law (NSPS) mandates a 3-Year, 100% warranty against thermal degradation (crumbling). That CANNOT be denied by any manufacturer. Second, third etc cats have a 1-year Warranty. So you and I can make this a “teachable moment” and talk Monday.

Chris

 

[Highbeam]

“Enclosed” woodshed for two years in Maine?

 

[Jeff in Maine]

I will call you on Monday Chris thanks. I don't honestly know how long I leave the door cracked open. I mean cracked because I do not leave it "open " per se. Not long maybe 5-10 minutes on a completely cold stove start up? As soon as I see really good flames and I think I can close the door I do.
On re-fills sometimes not at all,.. there are so many hot coals that I just refill it and close it up again. The door glass well I will have to see if I can wiggle it before I answer that one. It could? be loose I suppose.
It is funny without the stove running I think I am being honest in my answers but some things are automatic on my end ha ha so I may have forgotten some way I do some things. I have a digital timer by my chair and when I re-load the stove and am waiting for the cat to become active I set the timer for 15 minutes just so I don't forget that the by-pass is open. If you have any suggestions I am very willing to listen I sure as heck don't know it all that's for certain !

 

[Jeff in Maine]

“Enclosed” woodshed for two years in Maine?

Yes wood shed 4 walls and a roof ,...wood shed

 

[Jeff in Maine]

I just checked the door glass at first I said omg wow that is wicked loose ! Then I realized I was lifting the whole door on the hinges up and down so no it is not loose.

 

[Rickb]

Jeff dumb question on my part but do you open the bypass when you reload before you open the door, then wait a bit before you close it again after the reload?

 

[Ashful]

... and how long do you wait before re-engaging on a hot reload? I know BK has said you can re-close the bypass immediately on a hot reload, but I just don’t see how 50 lb. of winter-cold wood won’t thermally shock a ceramic cat, that had just moments ago been sitting at 500F.

BTW... lots of stories of folks on here getting new cats from BK, no resistance. No need for your anticipated push-back, they’ll take good care of you.

 

[ratsrepus]

On reload, I leave the bypass open depending on how hot the fire was. If in the active zone and the fire is established then I close it. Ashful is correct on thermal shock.

 

[Jeff in Maine]

Jeff dumb question on my part but do you open the bypass when you reload before you open the door, then wait a bit before you close it again after the reload?

Yes I open it for a moment / maybe 2 minutes then slowly crack open the door and wait another minute maybe... Then reload. Then the bypass stays open and the fire catches into the new wood then I close it up.

 

[Jeff in Maine]

... and how long do you wait before re-engaging on a hot reload? I know BK has said you can re-close the bypass immediately on a hot reload, but I just don’t see how 50 lb. of winter-cold wood won’t thermally shock a ceramic cat, that had just moments ago been sitting at 500F.

BTW... lots of stories of folks on here getting new cats from BK, no resistance. No need for your anticipated push-back, they’ll take good care of you.

On a hot re-load I close the bypass quite quickly maybe 30 seconds to 1 minutes max , my wood is not cold. I have a wood rack I built out of 5/8" rebar that is 4' tall and 4' long 16" wide. I stack it full every Sunday this rack sits maybe 2' from the stove. The wood I put in the stove is already at probably 80* +/_. This rack will hold enough wood to go me dam near Sunday to Sunday. My wood comes from my attached wood shed/ garage where it is at ambient temperature till I bring it into the house where the load of wood in the stove warms the new stack of wood for many hours before any of it goes into the BK. I bet I am doing something wrong but cold wood is not the reason.

 

[Jeff in Maine]

On reload, I leave the bypass open depending on how hot the fire was. If in the active zone and the fire is established then I close it. Ashful is correct on thermal shock.

Yes I do the same forgot to mention Active zone though

 

[Rickb]

On a hot re-load I close the bypass quite quickly maybe 30 seconds to 1 minutes max , my wood is not cold. I have a wood rack I built out of 5/8" rebar that is 4' tall and 4' long 16" wide. I stack it full every Sunday this rack sits maybe 2' from the stove. The wood I put in the stove is already at probably 80* +/_. This rack will hold enough wood to go me dam near Sunday to Sunday. My wood comes from my attached wood shed/ garage where it is at ambient temperature till I bring it into the house where the load of wood in the stove warms the new stack of wood for many hours before any of it goes into the BK. I bet I am doing something wrong but cold wood is not the reason.

Doesnt sound like your doing anything wrong. I normally open my bypass then open the door seconds later. Then after a reload I will usually wait a couple minutes then close it again and turn the air control back to low.

 

[Jeff in Maine]

I have burned wood all my life and I am now 55.That being said I have used a catalyst just stove 3 winters. This is a very nice stove and I don't want to harm it or do anything to shorten it's life span or empty my wallet so I am more than willing to listen and learn. I will call Chris tomorrow as soon as I have a chance. I have been on vacation for a week and I am quite sure I will be buried is small fires when I go back tomorrow. I just keep saying 6 more years...

 

[Highbeam]

Pretty wild to see the back of a cat blown out like that. None of mine have done that and all the photos of failed cats seem to show that kind of erosion on the firebox side of the cat.

I’m guessing wet wood since the wood is being “seasoned” in an enclosed building. 4 walls and a roof. Just a guess though since operation sounds great and thermal shock from air leakage looks to be eliminated.

 

[Jeff in Maine]

Ok so I am not going to get into a stick measuring contest here but I will explain what seasoned is to me.
I split the wood in the spring in may or so. Then it gets stacked onto pallets in a 30 acre field where it sits all summer and all winter with the top only covered. Then it gets moved into my 3 sided pole barn 12'x30' and it sets in there with the front of the barn open for another year . Then in the next spring it gets moved into my "wood shed" with a large roll door open to the world on one side 8'x12' and a window in front and in back of the stack both open where it stays till it gets burned. This cat in this photo has one picture from the rear and 2 I think from the front. If you can find appreciable moisture ( i.e. wet wood) in my wood I" buy you a new stove of your choosing for every room in your house

 

[kennyp2339]

Ok so I am not going to get into a stick measuring contest here but I will explain what seasoned is to me.
I split the wood in the spring in may or so. Then it gets stacked onto pallets in a 30 acre field where it sits all summer and all winter with the top only covered. Then it gets moved into my 3 sided pole barn 12'x30' and it sets in there with the front of the barn open for another year . Then in the next spring it gets moved into my "wood shed" with a large roll door open to the world on one side 8'x12' and a window in front and in back of the stack both open where it stays till it gets burned. This cat in this photo has one picture from the rear and 2 I think from the front. If you can find appreciable moisture ( i.e. wet wood) in my wood I" buy you a new stove of your choosing for every room in your house

when cleaning the chimney and around the upper by-pass chamber are you blind vacuuming with a powerful shop vac? I know when I clean the chimney I keep the by-pass open, let as much junk fall through, then close the by-pass and vacuum the top chamber out using a standard shop vac with a reducer at the tip of the hose.

 

[Jeff in Maine]

No I use a small 3 gallon? shop vac and I can look in where I am using it / go slowly and gently. My chimney is a 24' x 8x8 masonry tile lined chimney. I have a "Chimney Swift" chimney cleaner. It is a brush on a cable with a crank and transmission on the clean out door, and a pully attached to the cap. It was invented by a man in Presqueisle Maine. If you google chimney swift I think you can see one. My cleanings drop to the bottom of the cleanout door and that is where I take them out from.

 

[Ashful]

Okay guys, 3 years in, time to lube the thermostat on one of my Ashford 30's. Removed the two square-drive screws on the lower edge of the t'stat housing, but it does not want to lift off. What am I missing?

Any basic procedure on the rest would be appreciated, as well.

 

[webby3650]

Okay guys, 3 years in, time to lube the thermostat on one of my Ashford 30's. Removed the two square-drive screws on the lower edge of the t'stat housing, but it does not want to lift off. What am I missing?

Any basic procedure on the rest would be appreciated, as well.

It’s bedded in black silicone. Be a little more aggressive, it’ll pop off there.

 

[BKVP]

Okay guys, 3 years in, time to lube the thermostat on one of my Ashford 30's. Removed the two square-drive screws on the lower edge of the t'stat housing, but it does not want to lift off. What am I missing?

Any basic procedure on the rest would be appreciated, as well.

It's a small bead of silicone holding it. Flip that hammer around and take the handle and forcefully ram it up towards ceiling.

 

[ratsrepus]

Mine was a little cranky removing it the first time, but it came off. use anti seize on the bypass linkage

 

[Highbeam]

I’ll say it! Be sure the stat is is full cold before putting the cover back on! @BKVP

 

[BKVP]

I’ll say it! Be sure the stat is is full cold before putting the cover back on! @BKVP

Excellent advice Highbeam.

 

[ratsrepus]

I have read that advice previously, but why?