2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

[Tegbert]

View attachment 237194
So today I got the Ashford 25 installed!

With the help of 3 buddies we got it in.

I do have 2 small gripes and 1 complaint though.
Gripes:
1) The slide bars—- plural there was only one in the hearth.
2) There were no sheet metal screws for the flue connection in the bags. I had to run to the hardware store as I was out as well.

Complaint: I was under the impression when ordering that a flue connection collar would be present. The absence of this made it very difficult to attach the very thick insulated liner. It looked like Freddy Kruger put in my block off plates as I had to cut it so many times due to the awkward angel of the SS liner and BK connection ring.

The manual even states it’s present... but apparently on the new models it’s omitted. The manual needs to be updated ASAP.

Hopefully I’ll have it fully assembled and burning soon!


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Did they change how the surround attaches too? I had to put the surround on before I slid it in place and there is no way on mine that it can come off unless it’s slid out.

If they really did change the flue collar/extension thing that sucks as it is really slick and extremely easy to install.


Lopi Rockport
Blaze King Ashford 25

 

[webby3650]

1) The slide bars—- plural there was only one in the hearth.
2) There were no sheet metal screws for the flue connection in the bags. I had to run to the hardware store as I was out as well.

Complaint: I was under the impression when ordering that a flue connection collar would be present. The absence of this made it very difficult to attach the very thick insulated liner. It looked like Freddy Kruger put in my block off plates as I had to cut it so many times due to the awkward angel of the SS liner and BK connection ring.

Do you mean the metal strips to help slid the insert in on? They are usually 2 wrapped up together.
Screws? Ya, typically an installer has a few screws around. Not too common to be included.
What flue collar part was missing? Do you mean the heavy ovalized flex starter?

 

[bigaar]

I have an Ashford 30.1 that I've had since February 2016.

I've been starting to have problems with my cat clogging. Last night marks the second time in about 2-3 weeks. Basically the stove runs like it is on a lower thermostat setting when it is opened up wide open. I haven't had luck trying to run it hot to burn itself out of the clog. I brushed the face with a soft brush to unclog it the last time, but I could see that there was still more ash deeper into the honeycomb. I could not get my vac in position to do any good. It looks like some compressed air would be just the thing, but I've seen the book says not to. Any suggestions?

Also, my cat has never really seemed to be that great, but it has no visual defects similar to the images in the book. It often stalls around the time the wood is about the the size of charcoal briquettes. I've had half a mind to try it for warranty a couple times.

Yes, I've got two year seasoned dry wood, a tight door, and tight bybass.

One more thing, a few times this year my stove has burned significantly hotter than the stat setting I put it on. I wake up and the house is super hot, I just barely turn the stat knob left and I hear the click of the stove shutting down right away. Any chance my stat inner-workings is getting partially seized up or something? Maybe my wood is too dry? I've had readings of 11-13 on the inside of fresh splits.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[ratsrepus]

I have an Ashford 30.1 that I've had since February 2016.

I've been starting to have problems with my cat clogging. Last night marks the second time in about 2-3 weeks. Basically the stove runs like it is on a lower thermostat setting when it is opened up wide open. I haven't had luck trying to run it hot to burn itself out of the clog. I brushed the face with a soft brush to unclog it the last time, but I could see that there was still more ash deeper into the honeycomb. I could not get my vac in position to do any good. It looks like some compressed air would be just the thing, but I've seen the book says not to. Any suggestions?

Also, my cat has never really seemed to be that great, but it has no visual defects similar to the images in the book. It often stalls around the time the wood is about the the size of charcoal briquettes. I've had half a mind to try it for warranty a couple times.

Yes, I've got two year seasoned dry wood, a tight door, and tight bybass.

One more thing, a few times this year my stove has burned significantly hotter than the stat setting I put it on. I wake up and the house is super hot, I just barely turn the stat knob left and I hear the click of the stove shutting down right away. Any chance my stat inner-workings is getting partially seized up or something? Maybe my wood is too dry? I've had readings of 11-13 on the inside of fresh splits.

Thanks for the help guys.

If you have some gasket material, remove the cat for a good cleaning. If your aware, the Ashford comes with a steel combustor which are prone to clogging up easier than the ceramic ones are. The reason I ask about the gasket, is that they are not reusable. Keep me posted on this one, thanks

 

[BKVP]

View attachment 237150 View attachment 237149
BK insert door glass? Here are some pictures of my glass door with a large circle dead center. You can see where I stalled the combustor. I can clean the glass and circle disappears but after hot fire this circle will come back. My guess in production they use a suctioning device to set glass on just a guess. It’s no big deal just curious?

No sir, no suction device used. Very interesting however. If you wish to have the glass replaced advise via pm please.

 

[ratsrepus]

No sir, no suction device used. Very interesting however. If you wish to have the glass replaced advise via pm please.

can you comment on bigaars post that I replied to, thanks

 

[kf6hap]

But if you were measuring velocity (anemometer) then it wouldn’t matter the location, above or below the damper?

Velocity is a bit more complex to measure as it involves a true coaxial pitot tube or impact/wall pickup combination and should be placed 8-1/2 diameters from any obstruction or turn. Velocity is nice to know but not necessary.

(broken link removed to http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/AirVelocityIntroduction.cfm)

 

[darktower007]

Do you mean the metal strips to help slid the insert in on? They are usually 2 wrapped up together.
Screws? Ya, typically an installer has a few screws around. Not too common to be included.
What flue collar part was missing? Do you mean the heavy ovalized flex starter?

Yes. The heavy oval flex starter on the “new model” was omitted. Why? I have no clue. I called the dealer and they said there’s nothing in the other crates that look like the flue connector. Then I called BK and they confirmed it no longer came with them. Needless to say I was not happy. This made installation externally difficult as the double lined SS pipe is at an odd angle and with no flex liner to get in the right position it was near impossible... taking an hour trying to figure out how to make it fit.

The flue connector allowed the liner to have play in it, hence allowing you to easily attach them both and slide it back in. This is a something new Ashford owners need to be aware about and BK needs to update their manual about.

I’m not bashing anyone I was just not a happy camper last night.. lol


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[Ryan723]

I brushed the face with a soft brush to unclog it the last time, but I could see that there was still more ash deeper into the honeycomb. I could not get my vac in position to do any good. It looks like some compressed air would be just the thing, but I've seen the book says not to. Any suggestions?

It is worth pulling the cat and vacuuming it really well to get all the flyash out of it. Once it starts to clog, you turn up the stat to get more heat and increase the flow...this causes faster flow in the firebox and faster flow in the parts of the cat that aren't clogged...pulling more fly ash into the cat. At least that has been my experience.

While i do vacuum the cat from the front, i've found i have actually sucked flyash against the back face that way. It is worth the cost of a cat gasket to pull it and clean it well.

Also, my cat has never really seemed to be that great, but it has no visual defects similar to the images in the book. It often stalls around the time the wood is about the the size of charcoal briquettes. I've had half a mind to try it for warranty a couple times.

By the time the wood is burned down to charcoal briquette size, you may just be into the coaling phase and not have enough volatiles left to keep the cat running.

Any chance my stat inner-workings is getting partially seized up or something?

I've had exactly this happen. The stat will be just a little sticky and keep the stove burning hotter than it should for that setting. Barely touching the dial (not even turning it...just a bit of pressure) is enough to 'motivate' it to click shut. I now take the stat cover off regularly (e.g., pre/early season cleaning, mid-season cleaning, and late season), vacuum any dust out, and apply a few drops of light lubricating oil to the pivots of the air door.

I believe I saw a recommendation for high-temp antiseize to lube the stat? I could also see that potentially gumming things up if it collected dust. I'd be interested in knowing recommendations on what to lube the stat with?

EDIT: As Highbeam indicated below and as the big sticker on the t-stat cover says: there are no user serviceable parts. So please don't take the above t-stat clean&lube as instruction...only an anecdote on what worked for me. I'm sure your dealer would be happy to advise or service. Proceed with caution and understand what you are doing and the risks.

 

[Highbeam]

It is worth pulling the cat and vacuuming it really well to get all the flyash out of it. Once it starts to clog, you turn up the stat to get more heat and increase the flow...this causes faster flow in the firebox and faster flow in the parts of the cat that aren't clogged...pulling more fly ash into the cat. At least that has been my experience.

While i do vacuum the cat from the front, i've found i have actually sucked flyash against the back face that way. It is worth the cost of a cat gasket to pull it and clean it well.



By the time the wood is burned down to charcoal briquette size, you may just be into the coaling phase and not have enough volatiles left to keep the cat running.



I've had exactly this happen. The stat will be just a little sticky and keep the stove burning hotter than it should for that setting. Barely touching the dial (not even turning it...just a bit of pressure) is enough to 'motivate' it to click shut. I now take the stat cover off regularly (e.g., pre/early season cleaning, mid-season cleaning, and late season), vacuum any dust out, and apply a few drops of light lubricating oil to the pivots of the air door.

I believe I saw a recommendation for high-temp antiseize to lube the stat? I could also see that potentially gumming things up if it collected dust. I'd be interested in knowing recommendations on what to lube the stat with?

There are different moving parts in the thermostat assembly that require heavier grease lubrication. The throttle blade pivot shaft is not one of those places.

 

[BKVP]

Yes. The heavy oval flex starter on the “new model” was omitted. Why? I have no clue. I called the dealer and they said there’s nothing in the other crates that look like the flue connector. Then I called BK and they confirmed it no longer came with them. Needless to say I was not happy. This made installation externally difficult as the double lined SS pipe is at an odd angle and with no flex liner to get in the right position it was near impossible... taking an hour trying to figure out how to make it fit.

The flue connector allowed the liner to have play in it, hence allowing you to easily attach them both and slide it back in. This is a something new Ashford owners need to be aware about and BK needs to update their manual about.

I’m not bashing anyone I was just not a happy camper last night.. lol


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Thank you for your pointing out the error in the new manual. It will get fixed.

The flex extension was mandatory. When an insert is tested for purposes of being installed into a factory build fireplace, there is a safety test that is performed. It's sort of an "absolute worst case scenario" test. During the initial test the stack temps were high enough for us to be required by the safety agency to include the 24" section of high quality flex extension. A revision to the flue section was made (the baffle plate that sits below the flue collar). The net effect, both the flex extension was no longer required and the clearances to mantel were reduced. All our sales staff and dealers were informed of this change. Obviously the selling dealer did not inform you of the change as they more than likely handle most of their installations.

Again, my apologies.

BKVP

 

[Ryan723]

There are different moving parts in the thermostat assembly that require heavier grease lubrication. The throttle blade pivot shaft is not one of those places.

Thank you, Highbeam. I'm pretty sure I've checked my BK manual for guidance on this and there isn't any.

Is there a reference or how-to/how-often to do any other thermostat servicing including any areas where heavier lubrication are needed? Or is this a fix only to be done if one is having a specific issue?

Cleaning and light oiling has addressed my sticky thermostat and kept it from coming back, but if there's more i should be doing, I'd like to know.

 

[Highbeam]

Thank you, Highbeam. I'm pretty sure I've checked my BK manual for guidance on this and there isn't any.

Is there a reference or how-to/how-often to do any other thermostat servicing including any areas where heavier lubrication are needed? Or is this a fix only to be done if one is having a specific issue?

Cleaning and light oiling has addressed my sticky thermostat and kept it from coming back, but if there's more i should be doing, I'd like to know.

As a regular owner you’re not even supposed to remove the thermostat cover. There is nothing in the manual about this.

 

[BKVP]

can you comment on bigaars post that I replied to, thanks

The first thing I would ask, has the door gasket tension been adjusted since it was installed. I cannot stress enough how many callers start off a conversation with a technical observation and when we inquire.."When was the last time you adjusted the door gasket tension?" crickets! Almost never, less than 5% of callers acknowledge the need to do so. We tag the door, the door latch and the manual has it in multiple places and yet the manuals seem to be used most often for the first fire.

Second, yes wood can be too dry. When I burn NIELS (7%), I have to be mindful of the fly ash accumulation. More than when I burned 18%-24% m.c. cord wood fuel. Ashful has detailed in the past the effect higher burn rates (increased draft) can have on accumulation. More than likely there is a variable contributing, but I will bet you it is not the combustor.

Third, I always try to remind wood burners about the variables that are precisely that, variable. Specific gravity of the fuel, moisture content, wind effect, the way the wood falls in the fire, ever-changing draft, user interface, thermostat setting, etc. Individually there may not be a significant contribution to observed differences, but when combined, most definitely.

A leaky door and less dense fuel can really make a difference.

So, check the door, adjust if need be and observe. Then, try some 2 x 4's or lumber (typically higher in MC) and observe. I'll bet this process will lead to a discovery.

 

[Highbeam]

I have an Ashford 30.1 that I've had since February 2016.

I've been starting to have problems with my cat clogging. Last night marks the second time in about 2-3 weeks. Basically the stove runs like it is on a lower thermostat setting when it is opened up wide open. I haven't had luck trying to run it hot to burn itself out of the clog. I brushed the face with a soft brush to unclog it the last time, but I could see that there was still more ash deeper into the honeycomb. I could not get my vac in position to do any good. It looks like some compressed air would be just the thing, but I've seen the book says not to. Any suggestions?

Also, my cat has never really seemed to be that great, but it has no visual defects similar to the images in the book. It often stalls around the time the wood is about the the size of charcoal briquettes. I've had half a mind to try it for warranty a couple times.

Yes, I've got two year seasoned dry wood, a tight door, and tight bybass.

One more thing, a few times this year my stove has burned significantly hotter than the stat setting I put it on. I wake up and the house is super hot, I just barely turn the stat knob left and I hear the click of the stove shutting down right away. Any chance my stat inner-workings is getting partially seized up or something? Maybe my wood is too dry? I've had readings of 11-13 on the inside of fresh splits.

Thanks for the help guys.

February of 2016 is almost 3 years ago! Depending on your burning style you may have spent the cat and when they wear out they tend to plug up for some reason. One reason may be that the stove keeps the thermostat open more for the same amount of heat.

While you should not use compressed air at 150 psi, the low pressure air from the canned air is supposed to be okay. I have actually cranked down the pressure from my compressor to 20 psi to blow out a cat.

Your steel cat will never have visual physical defects. That's one of the benefits of a steel cat, it looks great so less warranty calls. Looking great doesn't mean it is working great, especially if it is clogged.

As far as the variation in heat on "low" I have experienced this too. We know that even with the throttle fully closed there is still a minimum opening in the blade which is that hole. So some air always feeds the fire. Some wood is particularly gassy and will blow that gas off at a high rate even with the throttle closed. The cat is more than happy to eat this gas so it makes heat until the wood stops squirting out the fuel so fast. I burn a lot of evergreen trees and the pitch/resin/sap in these logs can really bubble off a lot of wood gas in the early stages of the burn. The hardwoods don't do that so much.

Take the soft rubber hose off of the hard plastic shop vac extension and try to bend the soft hose sharply to get to the face of the cat. Or, you can take a chunk of small diameter rubber hose and tape it to the shop vac for better flexibility.

 

[webby3650]

Yes. The heavy oval flex starter on the “new model” was omitted. Why? I have no clue. I called the dealer and they said there’s nothing in the other crates that look like the flue connector. Then I called BK and they confirmed it no longer came with them. Needless to say I was not happy. This made installation externally difficult as the double lined SS pipe is at an odd angle and with no flex liner to get in the right position it was near impossible... taking an hour trying to figure out how to make it fit.

The flue connector allowed the liner to have play in it, hence allowing you to easily attach them both and slide it back in. This is a something new Ashford owners need to be aware about and BK needs to update their manual about.

I’m not bashing anyone I was just not a happy camper last night.. lol


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I guess I don’t understand why this made it so difficult? Are you using rigid liner for some reason?
We use heavy flex on all BKs anyway, so we haven’t been using the starter piece anyway.

 

[darktower007]

Installation help needed.

The manual states so align faces and secure with set collar. Is the collar suppose to come out a bit? The Allen wrench bolt is very hard to turn.. and I don’t want to break it.


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[webby3650]

The collar is already attached to the rod extension. Loosen it and move it over the joint and retighten.

 

[bholler]

Thank you for your pointing out the error in the new manual. It will get fixed.

The flex extension was mandatory. When an insert is tested for purposes of being installed into a factory build fireplace, there is a safety test that is performed. It's sort of an "absolute worst case scenario" test. During the initial test the stack temps were high enough for us to be required by the safety agency to include the 24" section of high quality flex extension. A revision to the flue section was made (the baffle plate that sits below the flue collar). The net effect, both the flex extension was no longer required and the clearances to mantel were reduced. All our sales staff and dealers were informed of this change. Obviously the selling dealer did not inform you of the change as they more than likely handle most of their installations.

Again, my apologies.

BKVP

A side question about this. What standard do you test to when testing for installation in a factory built fireplace? How many fireplaces do you test in?

 

[webby3650]

View attachment 237260
Installation help needed.
View attachment 237261
The manual states so align faces and secure with set collar. Is the collar suppose to come out a bit? The Allen wrench bolt is very hard to turn.. and I don’t want to break it.


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Don’t loosen the one in the picture. Once it’s put together you’ll have another collar just like that one that holds it together.

 

[darktower007]

The collar is already attached to the rod extension. Loosen it and move it over the joint and retighten.

I called BK. The directions didn’t indicate a separate set collar (fell into the bag) was present. I mistook it for a nut.
Thanks.


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[bigaar]

February of 2016 is almost 3 years ago! Depending on your burning style you may have spent the cat and when they wear out they tend to plug up for some reason. One reason may be that the stove keeps the thermostat open more for the same amount of heat.

While you should not use compressed air at 150 psi, the low pressure air from the canned air is supposed to be okay. I have actually cranked down the pressure from my compressor to 20 psi to blow out a cat.

Your steel cat will never have visual physical defects. That's one of the benefits of a steel cat, it looks great so less warranty calls. Looking great doesn't mean it is working great, especially if it is clogged.

As far as the variation in heat on "low" I have experienced this too. We know that even with the throttle fully closed there is still a minimum opening in the blade which is that hole. So some air always feeds the fire. Some wood is particularly gassy and will blow that gas off at a high rate even with the throttle closed. The cat is more than happy to eat this gas so it makes heat until the wood stops squirting out the fuel so fast. I burn a lot of evergreen trees and the pitch/resin/sap in these logs can really bubble off a lot of wood gas in the early stages of the burn. The hardwoods don't do that so much.

Take the soft rubber hose off of the hard plastic shop vac extension and try to bend the soft hose sharply to get to the face of the cat. Or, you can take a chunk of small diameter rubber hose and tape it to the shop vac for better flexibility.

So, it wouldn't be uncommon for my cat to be on its last leg after three years? If I'm not mistaken, it's under warranty for 10 years, right?

Thanks for the insight about the appearance and cleaning.

The first thing I would ask, has the door gasket tension been adjusted since it was installed. I cannot stress enough how many callers start off a conversation with a technical observation and when we inquire.."When was the last time you adjusted the door gasket tension?" crickets! Almost never, less than 5% of callers acknowledge the need to do so. We tag the door, the door latch and the manual has it in multiple places and yet the manuals seem to be used most often for the first fire.

Second, yes wood can be too dry. When I burn NIELS (7%), I have to be mindful of the fly ash accumulation. More than when I burned 18%-24% m.c. cord wood fuel. Ashful has detailed in the past the effect higher burn rates (increased draft) can have on accumulation. More than likely there is a variable contributing, but I will bet you it is not the combustor.

Third, I always try to remind wood burners about the variables that are precisely that, variable. Specific gravity of the fuel, moisture content, wind effect, the way the wood falls in the fire, ever-changing draft, user interface, thermostat setting, etc. Individually there may not be a significant contribution to observed differences, but when combined, most definitely.

A leaky door and less dense fuel can really make a difference.

So, check the door, adjust if need be and observe. Then, try some 2 x 4's or lumber (typically higher in MC) and observe. I'll bet this process will lead to a discovery.

The door gasket has been tightened twice since I've had it. It passes the dollar bill test and you can tell the outer edge of the gasket has not be subjected to the air inside the stove because of the color.

 

[Highbeam]

So, it wouldn't be uncommon for my cat to be on its last leg after three years? If I'm not mistaken, it's under warranty for 10 years, right?

Thanks for the insight about the appearance and cleaning.



The door gasket has been tightened twice since I've had it. It passes the dollar bill test and you can tell the outer edge of the gasket has not be subjected to the air inside the stove because of the color.

Absolutely not uncommon to only get 3 years from a cat. I'm on my third cat in the last 7 years. Cats are rated by the manufacturer for 10-12 thousand hours. "Years" is a pretty useless term unless you also know the hours per year of runtime. If you are a full time wood burner like many of us here on this forum then you can easily wear out a cat in three years.

The 10 year BK warranty does not cover a worn out cat. You can try though. First I would clean the cells out and give it a good try. I would also purchase a new cat and have it ready.

 

[kennyp2339]

First day back at work, loaded the princess this morning at 5am, outside temp was 27deg f, left the blower on low went about my day, just got home outside high temp was 38, inside temp upstairs is 72 only 3/4 of the firebox was burnt through. Very happy with the decision to install a damper.

 

[Diabel]

@kenny,
How tall is your pipe? How many bends (if any) and what degree?