2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread PART 3 (Everything BK)

[ohiojoe13]

Shouldn’t your door be latched shut till the rtv cures? With paper between the gasket and stove?

They never said anything about that

 

[SuperJ]

I could be wrong but I thought that’s what others did around here. I haven’t ever replaced one personally.

 

[ohiojoe13]

I could be wrong but I thought that’s what others did around here. I haven’t ever replaced one personally.

All they said was no fire for 24 hours.

 

[rdust]

Shouldn’t your door be latched shut till the rtv cures? With paper between the gasket and stove?

Not sure why, I’d assume it’s not done like that when the doors are made.

I know on the princess the stove doesn’t ship with the door. My guess is doors are made separate from the stoves.

 

[Diabel]

Not sure why, I’d assume it’s not done like that when the doors are made.

I know on the princess the stove doesn’t ship with the door. My guess is doors are made separate from the stoves.

I am sure the answer is buried somewhere in this thread. Why is the door shipped separately?

 

[kf6hap]

I would wait 24 Hrs before opening the door for best outcome.

 

[rdust]

I am sure the answer is buried somewhere in this thread. Why is the door shipped separately?

No idea, they are sold separately from the stove.

 

[DuaeGuttae]

No idea, they are sold separately from the stove.

Isn’t it simply that for the Princess doors are packaged separately so that people can chose whether they want plain black or gold trim or whatever else they offer? I believe the door is a “required option” in Blaze King’s terminology. They just ship the “option” separately. I don’t know how this may apply for the Chinook, Sirocco, or Ashford.

 

[AlbergSteve]

All they said was no fire for 24 hours.

Yep, wait 24 hours. And no, door doesn't have to be closed for the RTV to cure.

 

[kf6hap]

And no, door doesn't have to be closed for the RTV to cure.

True, the moisture in the air will cause the RTV to cure but what if the gasket decides to sag a little? I always thought it was best practice to let the cure occur with the door shut for an intimate gasket fit to produce the the best possible seal. A formed in place gasket. The cure can be accelerated with warmth and moisture so I put a damp piece of paper towel in the firebox and a 60 Watt incandescent light bulb in the ash drawer just for insurance as the RTV depth is fairly thick. A thick bed of RTV possibly might not cure fully in 24 Hours. Perhaps overkill, but I do want the best seal I can get in the shortest amount of time as it is still winter.

 

[AlbergSteve]

True, the moisture in the air will cause the RTV to cure but what if the gasket decides to sag a little? I always thought it was best practice to let the cure occur with the door shut for an intimate gasket fit to produce the the best possible seal. A formed in place gasket. The cure can be accelerated with warmth and moisture so I put a damp piece of paper towel in the firebox and a 60 Watt incandescent light bulb in the ash drawer just for insurance as the RTV depth is fairly thick. A thick bed of RTV possibly might not cure fully in 24 Hours. Perhaps overkill, but I do want the best seal I can get in the shortest amount of time as it is still winter.

I'm not sure how you could install the gasket with the door on the stove and not have the gasket fall out. The easiest way is to remove the door, lay it on its front and work from there.


As for the RTV cure, just squeeze a small bead or two on the bench next the door to test for cure - mine cured in about 12 hours but there's LOTS of moisture in the air here on the Island.

 

[webby3650]

True, the moisture in the air will cause the RTV to cure but what if the gasket decides to sag a little? I always thought it was best practice to let the cure occur with the door shut for an intimate gasket fit to produce the the best possible seal. A formed in place gasket. The cure can be accelerated with warmth and moisture so I put a damp piece of paper towel in the firebox and a 60 Watt incandescent light bulb in the ash drawer just for insurance as the RTV depth is fairly thick. A thick bed of RTV possibly might not cure fully in 24 Hours. Perhaps overkill, but I do want the best seal I can get in the shortest amount of time as it is still winter.

Most definitely over kill! Removing the door and letting the thing cure laying flat is the best method.

I like to put the door back on, close it a few times, then remove it to let it cure. Often times though, the stove owner doesn’t have the knowledge or ability to place the door back on the hinges...
If its a door that needs tools for dissembling then I typically either install the gasket in place, or reinstall the door and leave it latched while it cures.

 

[AlbergSteve]

Most definitely over kill! Removing the door and letting the thing cure laying flat is the best method.

I like to put the door back on, close it a few times, then remove it to let it cure. Often times though, the stove owner doesn’t have the knowledge or ability to place the door back on the hinges...
If its a door that needs tools for dissembling then I typically either install the gasket in place, or reinstall the door and leave it latched while it cures.

Most definitely over kill! Removing the door and letting the thing cure laying flat is the best method.
Yep, most owners wouldn't take that on... and with the Ashford the top comes off, side castings come off then the front casting with the door. Then the door has to be shimmed and aligned when reinstalled.

 

[AlbergSteve]

Yep, most owners wouldn't take that on... and with the Ashford the top comes off, side castings come off then the front casting with the door. Then the door has to be shimmed and aligned when reinstalled.

 

[AlbergSteve]

Speaking of overkill, I made a needle(couldn't find a darning needle in my sewing kit) and wove the loose ends of the outer braid to make a smooth joint instead of just butting it together AND offset the inner core by 1.5'' so the joints wouldn't line up.

 

[OldSchoolPyro]

Hey guys, I'm installing a BK King and I'm going to have a buddy measure the draft before getting into regular heating to make sure it isn't too much or too little, but for planning purposes, does it sound like this installation would be problematic?

Pipe comes out of stove, makes an immediate 45, about a foot of pipe, 90 into clay lined 7*7 chimney, straight up 24 feet.

I did see the part of the manual that says it is "recommended to have 36 inches of vertical pipe before any elbow, but I don't have the room for that. If it doesn't work this way, I'm going to have to pop a new hole in the chimney or look at other locations to install it. Also of note, the masonry chimney is insulated other than the last 4-5 feet after it exits the building. There is also no current cap on the chimney but I plan to install one this summer.

 

[aaronk25]

That RTV high temp adhesive is gonna be crusty crumbs after a couple full temp fires. I think all the RTV will do is help hold the gasket in place until it has some “memory”. Every time I applied it burned up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[lsucet]

This is how good and easy BK have been making my life. I loaded both of them last night about 11pm with pine. Today I got up and went into town to get some stuff. I just made my coffee and got on my way. No worries about load the stove, the house was supposed to be at nice temperature cause I didn't noticed/feel/paid attention to what temperature was. I know last night after I loaded them and went to bed outside temp was 24 df. I did comeback and spend almost all day outside fixing everything and getting ready to receive a baby horse cause one of my mares that are all pregnancy start showing symptoms that today was the due date.lol.
Never look to the stoves, family never complained, something good lol. Higher temps today here was 39 df. Now I came inside the house and said, oh my gosh, the stoves. This is what I found inside after the outside happiness of having another grand baby. Another to mess with the wood pile and compete with the BKs, to who eats more wood.

 

[kennyp2339]

Hey guys, I'm installing a BK King and I'm going to have a buddy measure the draft before getting into regular heating to make sure it isn't too much or too little, but for planning purposes, does it sound like this installation would be problematic?

Pipe comes out of stove, makes an immediate 45, about a foot of pipe, 90 into clay lined 7*7 chimney, straight up 24 feet.

I did see the part of the manual that says it is "recommended to have 36 inches of vertical pipe before any elbow, but I don't have the room for that. If it doesn't work this way, I'm going to have to pop a new hole in the chimney or look at other locations to install it. Also of note, the masonry chimney is insulated other than the last 4-5 feet after it exits the building. There is also no current cap on the chimney but I plan to install one this summer.

You may be ok if you block the old hole and install a new hole into the chimney, use 45 deg elbows to make the tie into the clay liner. The 24ft of actual masonry chimney @ 7x7 may will hopefully be enough (weak draft issue) since the king requires a 8" minimum flue

 

[webby3650]

That RTV high temp adhesive is gonna be crusty crumbs after a couple full temp fires. I think all the RTV will do is help hold the gasket in place until it has some “memory”. Every time I applied it burned up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Some stoves do very well with rtv for the door gasket adhesive, others not so much. I haven’t removed a BK gasket that I can remember that was crispy. It holds up really well from what I’ve seen.

 

[jetsam]

Hey guys, I'm installing a BK King and I'm going to have a buddy measure the draft before getting into regular heating to make sure it isn't too much or too little, but for planning purposes, does it sound like this installation would be problematic?

Pipe comes out of stove, makes an immediate 45, about a foot of pipe, 90 into clay lined 7*7 chimney, straight up 24 feet.

I did see the part of the manual that says it is "recommended to have 36 inches of vertical pipe before any elbow, but I don't have the room for that. If it doesn't work this way, I'm going to have to pop a new hole in the chimney or look at other locations to install it. Also of note, the masonry chimney is insulated other than the last 4-5 feet after it exits the building. There is also no current cap on the chimney but I plan to install one this summer.

I'm going to vote for one of two problems.

1) You put a 6" liner in there, which is pretty much guaranteed to make you hate your stove until you sell it and replace it with something that is designed for a 6" flue. This is not a good option.

2) You run it on an uninsulated square clay 7x7. This is an okay size (49"² vs 50 ¼"²), but with all the early elbows, the stove still may not draft well. The 24' vertical may make up for it, but I really can't know how well it will work in practice. If it is an exterior chimney, expect to sweep it a lot.

I don't know if breaking out the clay would give you room for an insulated 8" liner, but I would definitely investigate that option and find out. That'd be the better way to go if it's possible- especially if the chimney is exterior.

No matter what you do with the liner, see if you can go into the chimney higher up like kennyp said.

 

[jetsam]

Speaking of overkill, I made a needle(couldn't find a darning needle in my sewing kit) and wove the loose ends of the outer braid to make a smooth joint instead of just butting it together AND offset the inner core by 1.5'' so the joints wouldn't line up.
View attachment 223467 View attachment 223468 View attachment 223469

I understand the core offsetting, but I don't understand how you tidied up the loose ends with a needle. It looks great.

 

[OldSchoolPyro]

I'm going to vote for one of two problems.

1) You put a 6" liner in there, which is pretty much guaranteed to make you hate your stove until you sell it and replace it with something that is designed for a 6" flue. This is not a good option.

2) You run it on an uninsulated square clay 7x7. This is an okay size (49"² vs 50 ¼"²), but with all the early elbows, the stove still may not draft well. The 24' vertical may make up for it, but I really can't know how well it will work in practice. If it is an exterior chimney, expect to sweep it a lot.

I don't know if breaking out the clay would give you room for an insulated 8" liner, but I would definitely investigate that option and find out. That'd be the better way to go if it's possible- especially if the chimney is exterior.

No matter what you do with the liner, see if you can go into the chimney higher up like kennyp said.

Even breaking the clay out, I'd have 9"x9" of room to work with. It's an interior chimney with insulation around it except after it pops through the roof. There's also a low ceiling where it sits, that's why I was looking at a 45 right at the stove. If I have to enter the chimney higher, it will have to go through the ceiling and enter the chimney on the second floor.

I'd start all over before I put a 6in liner in the chimney and 8in liner would be more expensive than just going class a all the way up from what I've seen in liners.

 

[kennyp2339]

Even breaking the clay out, I'd have 9"x9" of room to work with. It's an interior chimney with insulation around it except after it pops through the roof. There's also a low ceiling where it sits, that's why I was looking at a 45 right at the stove. If I have to enter the chimney higher, it will have to go through the ceiling and enter the chimney on the second floor.

I'd start all over before I put a 6in liner in the chimney and 8in liner would be more expensive than just going class a all the way up from what I've seen in liners.

The problem is, is that you can bust through a floor with black pipe to raise the height, maybe the king isn't for you, its maybe problematic in the long run, look for something else.

 

[OldSchoolPyro]

The problem is, is that you can bust through a floor with black pipe to raise the height, maybe the king isn't for you, its maybe problematic in the long run, look for something else.

I can, I'd just prefer not to if I had the choice. I was hoping someone might have experience with a similar situation.