2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread PART 2 (Everything BK)

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The wood part of my door handle is extremely hot this year. Running the stove the same as every other year. I mean its to the point of not being able to touch it. It also looks like it's changing color to a darker brown on the inside of the handle.

Anyone see this before?
My by-pass handle has done the same thing over the last few years
 
Woke up to my boiler kicking on around midnight, i think i went to low on the stat, i had it set at about 12:00 or so with the stove top at 550F when i went to bed. When i woke up to the boiler kicking on the stove top was down to 325F. So I turned it up to about 2:30 on the stat, which took the stove top to about 415F for about 2hrs then i reloaded. I got about 7hrs total out of my overnight load. Is this normal? I was hoping it would hold a stove top temp of at least 500 overnight. Im sure ill get it with practice. It also went down to 10F overnight and i didnt have very big splits in the stove. Most of the wood i have for this year is 3-4 inch splits. I split it small for faster seasoning and for use in my old 17vl. I wonder if i throw in a compressed wood brick or 2 maybe that would help me out.


Small splits do not last as long from my experience. You need to pack the stove super tight with smaller splits. Put in your signature also what you have.

Another thing you can look to see about long burns is your gaskets being in good condition. Door seal tests etc.
 
My by-pass handle has done the same thing over the last few years

Do you feel like its getting to the point where it will combust? I feel like the handle may be a tad closer to the stove as I have tightened the door a little to get a better seal. So that 1/8 inch m9vement must be contributing to the heat.
 
Do you feel like its getting to the point where it will combust? I feel like the handle may be a tad closer to the stove as I have tightened the door a little to get a better seal. So that 1/8 inch m9vement must be contributing to the heat.
nope, its just turning a richer brown.. not charring
 
Finally getting my act together.. just bought (1) 6" 68" telescoping duratech dvl pipe, (1) ceiling support box adapter, (1) stove collar adapter with damper, (1) manometer.. it all should be in by next week sometime. I just want to touch on a thing... Since its been really cold the past couple of day, I have been running my stove higher then normal, I'm getting excellent heat and awesome burn times for the conditions but the efficiency of the stove itself it flat out unbelievable, I have a very hot stove stop with a 350deg f flue pipe, its crazy how much heat gets extracted from the stove before entering the chimney. I have also noticed little if any smoke coming out of the stack now, only heat vapors. I also notice a huge improvement in stove function now that I'm using the damper religiously, hence why I ordered a dvl pipe with the damper built in..also a manometer to measure my draft
 
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The wood part of my door handle is extremely hot this year. Running the stove the same as every other year. I mean its to the point of not being able to touch it. It also looks like it's changing color to a darker brown on the inside of the handle.

Anyone see this before?
I always found the clearance to combustibles amusing when they break the rule right from the factory on the front and side of the stove:p but yes mine is 180 degrees usually and slightly brown on the inside. Gives off a sweet smell.
 
So this semi-circle has been developing slowly since the stove was installed - obviously a hot part of the flue pipe, but it doesn't wrap around like a collar or anything - just a circle at the front. nothing smudges off on my finger - just looks like a change in paint colour. anybody else experience something like this?
 

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So this semi-circle has been developing slowly since the stove was installed - obviously a hot part of the flue pipe, but it doesn't wrap around like a collar or anything - just a circle at the front. nothing smudges off on my finger - just looks like a change in paint colour. anybody else experience something like this?
Can be possible that is your smoke smell? Sign of leaking connector? If you lift the deck, how it looks?
 
Can be possible that is your smoke smell? Sign of leaking connector? If you lift the deck, how it looks?
My stove pipe connector was flared in too much it fit extremely sloppy so I flared it out so that it fit much more snug to avoid any leaks... You may want to try this when it's cooled down and see if that helps...

Blaze King King Wood Stove
 
ya, i'm looking into this further - i think this could possibly be part of the issue from what i've learned so far
 
For anyone who has the fan kit do you think from your experience running the fans on high or on low or somewhere in between is better, I'm trying to find the best way to push the heat around the house...

Blaze King King Wood Stove
 
If you need quick heat- run the fans on high. However convective heat just doesn't "stick around" like radiant heat it seems. But hot air moves around better.

I have really grown to love running my fan on a timer. 1/2hr on 1/2 hour off. Best of both worlds. Fan on medium.

Biggest thing you will see is a significant drop in burn times. Running on med mine drop 30% at least.
 
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If you need quick heat- run the fans on high. However convective heat just doesn't "stick around" like radiant heat it seems. But hot air moves around better.

I have really grown to love running my fan on a timer. 1/2hr on 1/2 hour off. Best of both worlds. Fan on medium.

Biggest thing you will see is a significant drop in burn times. Running on med mine drop 30% at least.
Thanks I'll have to try that

Blaze King King Wood Stove
 
So in this cold snap temps are 12 during the day, zero at night I have been running the fan on 3/4 high with the t stat at 3-4 o’clock, I have notice a huge difference in performance and it’s great, when temps are a little warmer or if I need a long burn I’ll dial the fan back to low- medium and lower the t stat to 2 o’clock this holds the House well and just maintains the heat
 
So in this cold snap temps are 12 during the day, zero at night I have been running the fan on 3/4 high with the t stat at 3-4 o’clock, I have notice a huge difference in performance and it’s great, when temps are a little warmer or if I need a long burn I’ll dial the fan back to low- medium and lower the t stat to 2 o’clock this holds the House well and just maintains the heat

I found that the house got down to 60 with the fan on and the stove burning hot today.

I set a nice hot pine fire, told the wife "Feed the stove frequently today", and went to work.

Ten hours later when I got home.... I DID have some coals left. :/

Wife's idea of "frequently" is apparently "once a day, around bedtime". Spoiled. :)


Making up for it now!

Image1968384892.jpg
 
I found that the house got down to 60 with the fan on and the stove burning hot today.

I set a nice hot pine fire, told the wife "Feed the stove frequently today", and went to work.

Ten hours later when I got home.... I DID have some coals left. :/

Wife's idea of "frequently" is apparently "once a day, around bedtime". Spoiled. :)


Making up for it now!

View attachment 219018
Lol ya and I see your in NY I'm in Indiana and it's been up to 12F and down to -2F

Blaze King King Wood Stove
 
Woke up to my boiler kicking on around midnight, i think i went to low on the stat, i had it set at about 12:00 or so with the stove top at 550F when i went to bed. When i woke up to the boiler kicking on the stove top was down to 325F. So I turned it up to about 2:30 on the stat, which took the stove top to about 415F for about 2hrs then i reloaded. I got about 7hrs total out of my overnight load. Is this normal? I was hoping it would hold a stove top temp of at least 500 overnight. Im sure ill get it with practice. It also went down to 10F overnight and i didnt have very big splits in the stove. Most of the wood i have for this year is 3-4 inch splits. I split it small for faster seasoning and for use in my old 17vl. I wonder if i throw in a compressed wood brick or 2 maybe that would help me out.

Take that stove top meter off and leave it off. It will just cause you headaches.

You have single wall pip

Run the stove by the cat meter. If the cat meter falls back inactive with fuel in the stove thenyour stat setting was too low. Don’t go that low next time. You said 12:00 position which is well below the typical lowest possible setting of about 2 o’clock. Repeat the test until find the lowest stat setting that dependably won’t stall the cat and then mark your stat. That’s your low.

For max burn time stuff the stove tight with wood. All the way to the top, parallel stack like a package of hot dogs. Then set to your low setting.

The 20 size stoves have the shortest burn times of all bk cat stoves. The bigger 30 burns much longer and can be dialed down lower. Hard to understand why people buy the 20 but they do!
 
The 20 size stoves have the shortest burn times of all bk cat stoves. The bigger 30 burns much longer and can be dialed down lower. Hard to understand why people buy the 20 but they do!

The 20 makes your dog look bigger.
 
Lol ya and I see your in NY I'm in Indiana and it's been up to 12F and down to -2F

Blaze King King Wood Stove
Next week is going to be brutal for us....that King will get a real test.
 
So I've been seeing so many of you talking about having flue probes, temperature gauges for your stove tops and flue pipes etc. All I have is the factory thermometer that came with the stove telling me whether I'm in the inactive or active range. It seems like you all think it's important to httave some of these other gauges for monitoring stove conditions and performance. Can you all recommend some add-ons for me?
Like BKVP said in a recent post, save your money. Spend it on a good bottle of scotch...
 
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I have not had a oil delivery for 10 years, :cool: When I had the Regency I would put in 15-20 gal of diesel and that
would be enough to get through the winter. Now with the BK I don't think I will need to run the furnace at all.
It is 13::F outside and 79::F in the living room, even the basement seems to stay warm enough to prevent any pipe freezing.
Must be the alien technology.;)

View attachment 218951
When we were dating, my wife called me redneck for having my new TV stacked on the old TV, essentially using the big old Mitsubishi cabinet TV as a stand for the modern unit. However, you sir, have me beat by a mile... old stove next to the new stove!
 
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When we were dating, my wife called me redneck for having my new TV stacked on the old TV, essentially using the big old Mitsubishi cabinet TV as a stand for the modern unit. However, you sir, have me beat by a mile... old stove next to the new stove![/QUOTE

I can't repeat what my wife said when I showed her wes999's setup, and I'm not talkin' about the second stove...
 
When we were dating, my wife called me redneck for having my new TV stacked on the old TV, essentially using the big old Mitsubishi cabinet TV as a stand for the modern unit. However, you sir, have me beat by a mile... old stove next to the new stove!
You're a funny guy ashful, I'd like to meet you someday...??
 
The crossover point is -42. -42dF is the same as -42C.

-43C is colder than -43dF.

-41dF is colder than -41C.

Temps lower than -30 on either scale qualify as pretty darn cold.

@Highbeam , mea culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa. I was in error.

As ably pointed out by @ben94122 , (and dryly allowing it may not matter), the actual crossover point is -40.

This is most easily found by plugging -40 in to the formula dF = C * 9/5 + 32 and chugging away.

More elegant to recognize at some temperature x = dF = C

and then rewrite x = x * 9/5 + 32, solve for x and arrive without fail at -40dF = -40 C = x.

Thank you Ben. Now I gotta talk to the wife about putting our money in some other bank since the sign on the front lawn of mine is constantly saying time/ -42dF / -42C when the weather is that cold.

Maybe the folks at the geo-physical institute already have this figured out. I can't imagine the bank has two temp probes in the sign with one out of calibration.
 
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