You're in an odd situation. Since you bought it from a guy who bought it from a dealer I wonder if the warranty is even valid. You can call bk for free and ask them how they want to handle the defective product. Current and future problems.
2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread PART 2 (Everything BK)
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You're in an odd situation. Since you bought it from a guy who bought it from a dealer I wonder if the warranty is even valid. You can call bk for free and ask them how they want to handle the defective product. Current and future problems.
MissMac
Minister of Fire
ya i just sent an email to the company that installed it to find out the details - i didn't even realize that the whole warranty could be jeopardized - to me, i bought the stove from them, so they were the dealer. but i'm pretty sure they ordered it from somewhere else. i've asked them for the info so that i can call blaze king. maybe BKVP might be able to give me some advice? anybody know how to tag him in a post?
MissMac
Minister of Fire
So true. I'd have bought the Ashford if they were making it back when I bought my princess.
King polar and where near Columbia CityWell, what stove and where in IN?BTW, welcome!
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This stuff ain't that big a deal, really. Hang in there, get the issues ironed out and you will be a happy camper..and pick up knowledge and skills you will need as a stove owner/operator.
That's why I would do it myself. Read up all you can on door gasket replacement, get the original OEM gasket, and have at it. You couldn't do any worse..
Main points are; As you lay it into the RTV (high-temp copper stuff from the auto store will do,) don't stretch the gasket, just lay it in with no tension. Butt the end at a lower corner, with one end going as far as it can and the other end butting up to it with some pressure. They will give you extra length so start at the corner with one end full length. When you get around to the other end, eyeball it and cut it with a scissors to give you enough extra to butt the frayed end firmly against the beginning where you started. Now I don't claim to be an expert, and BKVP's procedure may differ, so maybe he and others can add some valuable pointers.
He may have enjoyed an inordinate amount of "spiritual enlightenment" last night or he might be in a tree stand but he will be here soon.
Ah, way up north, southeast of South Bend.
"King Polar??" Not familiar with that model..maybe only available north of Indy.
It's the king stove with legs basically it's a free-standing stove
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MissMac
Minister of Fire
so do you guys get a bit of carbon sooting on the outside run of door gasket cable too? like if you wipe your finger across it, would it be dirty? or should it be squeaky clean?
SuperJ
Feeling the Heat
If I run a small partial load on a day where I know I’m not going to need a ton of heat is it hurting my efficiency? Sometimes I just throw a split on the coals in the morning and let it coal out in then afternoon if it’s warm.
The alternative is to run full loads but really plan ahead for when it’s warmer. The problem with loading it full is it burns for so long, I have to consider the weather forecast for tomorrow afternoon when reloading. Sometimes it’s easier to feed it smaller reloads if I’m around to avoid prolonged burns when I don’t need the heat.
The alternative is to run full loads but really plan ahead for when it’s warmer. The problem with loading it full is it burns for so long, I have to consider the weather forecast for tomorrow afternoon when reloading. Sometimes it’s easier to feed it smaller reloads if I’m around to avoid prolonged burns when I don’t need the heat.
There will always be dirt, dust, expired paint and other junk on all parts of a stove but there is no creosote outside of my door gasket. This isn't a white glove hobby. If you lick a stove, it will have a flavor.
Sounds like you may be getting to the bottom of the smoke smell situation. Time to slap in a new gasket..and then post pics of your masterpiece.
BTW, to install the gasket, take the door off and lay it flat on a table.That's fine..but in northern ON, surely you aren't running partial loads now, are you? Or maybe your house is super tight and insulated..
SuperJ
Feeling the Heat
I’m pretty much 24/7 now but I’m Southern Ontario. We get daytime highs above freezing pretty regularly throughout the winter.
Efficiency is a nice goal to have but in your low heat output situation you must choose between wasting a little wood by overheating the house or waste a little wood by burning in a slightly less efficient manner. If heating needs don't require continuous burning then I tend to let house temps roller coaster a bit and start new fires. It's much easier in my opinion.
MissMac
Minister of Fire
hahahahahahahahah
well i definitely get a smoke stained finger when i run it along the outside of the gasket. indeed, it is appearing that i'm going to have to fix up my new stove. sigh.
Thanks I'll keep it in mindLike a dog's...you know..
Disclaimer to newbies...don't lick a hot stove!
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oldbluedeer
New Member
Smoke smell in the room...
So many opinions, and seeming contradictions… But no, it all makes sense, as long as we have perfect understanding, which none of us has.
Is sufficient draft essential to good operation of the stove? Yes.
Does sufficient draft solve all problems of smoke smell in the room? No.
Some folks say that adequate chimney draft will solve the problem of smoke smell coming into the room, while others say that installing a new chimney adapter or redoing the door gasket fixed the problem in their case.
Why is it so confusing? Because we are not giving due consideration to the effects of turbulence in the system. Each stove system is unique. Turbulence is created whenever there is something that disrupts the smooth flow of air up and out the chimney. Start with the design of the woodstove itself. And with every fire, there is a slightly different configuration of logs in the stove, creating different patterns of air flow within the stove and up through the bypass and/or catalytic burner (you can often see this when you first shut the bypass, or adjust the damper down). Any roughness, sharp edge or anything that causes a change in direction causes some turbulence in the chimney system.
Whenever there is turbulence in a system, by definition it creates pressure differentials within the system. We take advantage of this with the design of an airplane wing, which causes lower pressure on the upper side of the wing, and hence a lifting force that enables planes to fly.
Turbulence can cause powerful eddies, rotors and other currents that, even if small, are greater than the air pressure differences between stove, chimney, room or outside air. In other words, air can get forced where we would not expect it if only considering the more obvious effects of chimney draft.
So the first rule, if at all possible: Make sure your chimney has sufficient draft. In the case of BK stoves, that means follow their recommendations of 15' chimney height (plus 1' chimney for every bend in the system – I haven't seen this in their literature, but that is what BKVP and others have said). Having sufficient draft wards off a number of possible stove problems, not just smoke smell in the room, so if you provide sufficient draft everything else should be easier, for the most part.
If sufficient draft does not solve the problem, then look more closely at your stove. This includes the door gasket, the adapter between stovetop and stovepipe, and any other rough edge, gaps or loose fitting pieces in the system.
So many opinions, and seeming contradictions… But no, it all makes sense, as long as we have perfect understanding, which none of us has.
Is sufficient draft essential to good operation of the stove? Yes.
Does sufficient draft solve all problems of smoke smell in the room? No.
Some folks say that adequate chimney draft will solve the problem of smoke smell coming into the room, while others say that installing a new chimney adapter or redoing the door gasket fixed the problem in their case.
Why is it so confusing? Because we are not giving due consideration to the effects of turbulence in the system. Each stove system is unique. Turbulence is created whenever there is something that disrupts the smooth flow of air up and out the chimney. Start with the design of the woodstove itself. And with every fire, there is a slightly different configuration of logs in the stove, creating different patterns of air flow within the stove and up through the bypass and/or catalytic burner (you can often see this when you first shut the bypass, or adjust the damper down). Any roughness, sharp edge or anything that causes a change in direction causes some turbulence in the chimney system.
Whenever there is turbulence in a system, by definition it creates pressure differentials within the system. We take advantage of this with the design of an airplane wing, which causes lower pressure on the upper side of the wing, and hence a lifting force that enables planes to fly.
Turbulence can cause powerful eddies, rotors and other currents that, even if small, are greater than the air pressure differences between stove, chimney, room or outside air. In other words, air can get forced where we would not expect it if only considering the more obvious effects of chimney draft.
So the first rule, if at all possible: Make sure your chimney has sufficient draft. In the case of BK stoves, that means follow their recommendations of 15' chimney height (plus 1' chimney for every bend in the system – I haven't seen this in their literature, but that is what BKVP and others have said). Having sufficient draft wards off a number of possible stove problems, not just smoke smell in the room, so if you provide sufficient draft everything else should be easier, for the most part.
If sufficient draft does not solve the problem, then look more closely at your stove. This includes the door gasket, the adapter between stovetop and stovepipe, and any other rough edge, gaps or loose fitting pieces in the system.
MissMac
Minister of Fire
in my case, it seems like it's a door gasket issue - have emailed Blaze King rep in Canada for a resolution. will let you all know if it fixes the problem once i get the gasket replaced.
Does anybody have any ideas for circulating heat around the house we have no ductwork but we do have ceiling fans in most rooms
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