2015-2016 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)
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Woody harrelson
Feeling the Heat
Stove arrived at dealer on Thursday and I picked it up on Friday. My wife and I got it unloaded and into the house without too many issues with the use of ramps a hand truck and a ratchet strap. Put on the ash pan, legs, side shields and fan kit. tested the fans and then slid her back in place. Hooked up the double wall pipe and now we need some cold weather to try her out. Everything looks good so far, stove is pretty much what I expected as far as fit and finish.
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Good trip, I ended up with an 18# king salmon and about 10 of the cod looking rockfish. Just under 20# in the freezer.
Yesterday I placed the stove on the hearth. Got a problem. I lost about 5" of chimney height due to the raised hearth. The duravent 40-60 slip only had 3 more inches to give me. Doh! So I immediately ordered the shorter 29-48 slip and that fancy new ceiling box adapter. Local prices were double the online price so it will be at least another week before light off.
I'm going to the mountains today for a horseback trip out of cle elum. Outside temp is 42 and inside is 63. Yes, I would have liked a fire.
Actually, yesterday, I burned in the nc30 to dispose of all the summer's lumber cutoffs. It was nice but didn't warm the house up.
drz1050
Minister of Fire
Hey Guys,
I have my stove out because I insulated the liner and installed a block off plate. I have been going through the stove and did the dollar bill test on the bypass and it slides out pretty easy. Should I try to tighten it or replace the gasket? This has happened because the thing I clean my chimney with has worn it out. At least that's what it looks like. Also how do you replace that gasket? Is there a way to take the bypass door off? Where do I get the gasket material? Sorry for all the questions.
I have my stove out because I insulated the liner and installed a block off plate. I have been going through the stove and did the dollar bill test on the bypass and it slides out pretty easy. Should I try to tighten it or replace the gasket? This has happened because the thing I clean my chimney with has worn it out. At least that's what it looks like. Also how do you replace that gasket? Is there a way to take the bypass door off? Where do I get the gasket material? Sorry for all the questions.
BKVP
Minister of Fire
CAUTION! There is a 7/16 keeper nut under the head of the adjustment bolt. Loosen this nut several revolutions before turning the adjustment bolt. Then turn in 1/4 revolutions and check each time with dollar bill.
If you wish to replace the 5/8" gasket, I can walk you through it. Have gasket and high temp furnace cement or glue handy when you call.
Chris
@BKVP, yep found that nut and loosened first. I tightened the screw as far as it would go and it was still not tight enough with the dollar test. I need to replace the gasket. Where can I get one? I am officially modifying how I clean the chimney! With the bypass closed. I will have to take out the cat to vacuum out the top of the bypass though. Have never taken the cat out so hope that is easy enough. Also hope the new insulated pipe and block off plate do their magic!
I understand that. What can't it be cleaned traditionally? Is your roof exceptionally steep?
I have been cleaning it from the top with the bypass open. The sooteater makes it all the way into the stove and hits the gasket first. So now I am going to keep the bypass closed and use the leaf blower method to suck it all out which I already do for my second chimney.
Yeah, I would avoid taking the cat out just for chimney cleaning. Too much unnecessary chance for damage.
I have a sooteater and use it from the bottom up. I thought that the insert would be exceptionally easy to clean this way since the liner attaches at an angle. Bottom up also allows you to avoid the bypass gasket.
I have no problem removing all of the chimney debris from the cat chamber with a regular shop vac. The trick is that you need to grab a hold of the bypass plate and lift it up towards the stove top to gain access to the bottom rear of the cat where the debris is otherwise inaccessible.
Removing the cat requires the installation of a new gasket around the cat. Also, the chances of breaking the cat increase each time you remove it. It's not hard but you need to apply some careful force to the cat to overcome the expanded gasket.
The Princess is super easy to clean from the bottom up! The angled flue collar makes it a breeze.
I'm pretty sure the bypass will not lift up on newer models like yours does.
There are metal brackets that mount in the catalyst housing, the cat slides in after those are in place. They have tabs on the bottom that keep the bypass plate from being knocked out of place. That's how I remember it anyway, I don't think the older models had this feature. I can't remember for sure, I so rarely have to remove a Blaze King cat.
I have seen it almost wrap clear around to inactive. That was with a full load of <10% Juniper. Stove top was around 860 degrees. I normally mix in some hardwood with every load. It was near the end of the season and all I had left was juniper. I will watch it like a hawk if I ever run out of hardwood again.
You don't just lift it, you slide it up from the 1/3 open position. Kind of slide the non hinge side of the plate away from you and up. My princess is a 2012 model so I don't know if that is considered "older" but your princess insert has some different internals. I can slide the bypass up enough to reach my fat fingers in there and touch the back of the cat. When I removed my cat I did have those SS clip in retainers.
I suppose the plate could still be pushed back out of place. I thought you were lifting it straight up.
I vaguely remember some type of change with those retainers at some point. Maybe not?
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