- Jan 12, 2006
- 94
A different direction-
Who here has changed the by-pass gasket ?
If so, why? and how much of a bugger was it to change out?
I replaced my by-pass door gasket a couple weeks ago. The hardest part was removing the old gasket cement in the gasket channel. Cleaning the channel and installing the new gasket was made easier by removing the cat combustor, removing the retaining "clips" on the side of the opening, and then totally removing the by-pass door through the cat opening. With the old gasket removed, used a flat bladed screw driver and a pitty knife to scrape out the cement in the channel. Once the channel was clean, I replaced the 5/8 inch gasket, replaced the by-pass door and got it in place, re-installed the side retainer "clips" on the side of the cat opening, put new wrap on the combustor (held in place with masking tape), and re-installed the combustor.
I replaced the by-pass door gasket because it failed the dollar bill test when I checked it while I had the connector pipe off to clean it. I couldn't tighten the door pressure enough that it would pass the dollar bill test (the gasket was compressed flat.) My stove is eight years old and this is the first time I have replaced this gasket. During this process is when I learned about "high density" gasket. I couldn't find any high density gasket locally, and as noted in another thread, I used what was represented to me to be high density, but in fact was latter told it was not. So now the by-pass door has "low density" gasket, but appears to be working fine at this time. I suspect I will have to replace it sooner than if it were high density. LESSON LEARNED: I have ordered enough high density gasket, for both the by-pass door and the loading door, for two change, through the nearest Blaze King retailer whohas ordered it directly from Blaze King, so I will get the stuff they originally use in their stoves.