1st stove install, questions

[pnnf]

I just know that screen will not be behind your stove..but believe it or not I saw posts where people said that their TV was staying and the only place that they had...like maybe it was over a mantle piece or something--can't remember but I would think electronics need to be in a cooler place...clancey

Wow, yeah I'm with you, needs to be in a cool place and at the very least not above a stove smh

 

[begreen]

Hey Begreen, thanks for the reply and all the help OK, so I will not buy a separate support box adapter. I should be able to use the one supplied, that helps. I rechecked the DVL minimum clearance (per the stove manufacturer) which is 16". This made the stove move forward 1". New measurements are: 1) rear shield to wall 13" 2) rear of collar to wall 16 3/16", the collar is 3/16 thick so this gives 3/8" to the back of the DVL making it 16 3/8" to combustible. Do I need to worry about the thickness of the collar adapter on the stove? Im just calculating for the DVL right now. Heres a pic of the new location ... the TV will be moved

Good to know the TV is being relocated. DVL stove pipe has a 6" clearance requirement. The stove has a larger clearance. However, that clearance to the rear (A) is only 12" using double-wall, DVL stovepipe.

 

[pnnf]

Sounds like a practical plan. When you get a chance, post a picture of the new location. The adapter adapts the support box to the DVL. It goes on the room side of the support box while the chimney pipe goes on the attic side of the support box.

Morning, Well things are moving along well. I have everything except the stone, roof bracket and the 68" telescoping DLV pipe. They should be here in a few days. I do have two questions I need some help with. First, the appliance adapter came in yesterday and I dry fit it on the collar, just because It doesnt fit tight, at all. Its very loose, if i move the adapter back and forth while its sitting on the collar it feels to be about a 1/4" gap between the adapter and collar. Is this normal? Is there a step Im missing? The "gap" is the space where the air holes are. I cant install a "spacer" because it will block the holes so Im thinking this is normal. Will the draft keep the smoke from coming into the room? Secondly, if you look at the pic above, I have the hearth dimensions outlined in tape on the carpet. The floor register is now under the hearth. Id like to come out of the floor with a 90 and direct a new length of duct to the front of the hearth and reinstall the register so the furnace heat blows out from the front of the hearth. Will it be ok to run the new piece of duct on top of the carpet in an enclosed space? I dont think the duct will get hot enough to cause a problem. Is there a code for this. I didnt want to cut the carpet out so it would be nice if I dont h ave to but i will if needed. Tahnk you for any advice. I should have some pics up soon of the progress

 

[pnnf]

After some more reading on the site I have decided to not take the duct across the floor to the front of the hearth. I'm going to extend the duct 4" straight up and put the register on the hearth floor facing toward the ceiling. As for the loose fitting stove adapter, I've been reading other posts here on the site and I found where Begreen had mentioned not needing/using the stove adapter. I tried it on my stove. I took the adapter out and reconnected the DVL slip pipe to the stove collar. The pipe fits tight on the inside while leaving a overhang on the outside for the air holes to get the air they need. Thanks Begreen

 

[kennyp2339]

the appliance adapter came in yesterday and I dry fit it on the collar, just because It doesnt fit tight, at all. Its very loose

I had to use a single wall double male piece on my stove to make a snug fit, I trimmed the one section of double male that goes into the flue collar so it doesn't sit below the flue collar (about 1/2" came off) then the appliance adapter fit inside, so all joints are pointed down incase any liquid creosote forms it can drain back to the inside of the stove without any leakage.

Secondly, if you look at the pic above, I have the hearth dimensions outlined in tape on the carpet. The floor register is now under the hearth. Id like to come out of the floor with a 90 and direct a new length of duct to the front of the hearth and reinstall the register so the furnace heat blows out from the front of the hearth

Any returns need to be 10ft from the stove, any forced air vents should also be away from the stove so that if it runs it doesnt take competing air away from the intake of the stove (combustion & draft) . Think about stove smoke when the loading door is open, or the stove running balls to the floor.

 

[pnnf]

I had to use a single wall double male piece on my stove to make a snug fit, I trimmed the one section of double male that goes into the flue collar so it doesn't sit below the flue collar (about 1/2" came off) then the appliance adapter fit inside, so all joints are pointed down incase any liquid creosote forms it can drain back to the inside of the stove without any leakage.

Any returns need to be 10ft from the stove, any forced air vents should also be away from the stove so that if it runs it doesnt take competing air away from the intake of the stove (combustion & draft) . Think about stove smoke when the loading door is open, or the stove running balls to the floor.

Thanks for the reply Ive decided to take the adapter out of the setup. Based on what ive been reading here, the DVL should be ok without the collar, if Im understanding it right. Ive already test fitted the DVL and its nice and snug and the air holes are still exposed. Do you have any experience with this kind of setup? Thank you for the heads up on the competing air situation, I didnt think of that. I will have a fresh air intake and the plan is to only use the stove for emergency heat, Im in a mobile home and need the furnace to run so the ducting is kept warm, keeping the pipes from freezing. Thanks again, I welcome any more help or ides you might have~

 

[kennyp2339]

Thanks for the reply Ive decided to take the adapter out of the setup. Based on what ive been reading here, the DVL should be ok without the collar, if Im understanding it right. Ive already test fitted the DVL and its nice and snug and the air holes are still exposed. Do you have any experience with this kind of setup? Thank you for the heads up on the competing air situation, I didnt think of that. I will have a fresh air intake and the plan is to only use the stove for emergency heat, Im in a mobile home and need the furnace to run so the ducting is kept warm, keeping the pipes from freezing. Thanks again, I welcome any more help or ides you might have~

If its a snug fit then it should be fine, you'll know when it gets cold out and light a fire, if you hear a whistle noise near the collar anyway.. and its not that big of a deal to add that adapter afterwards. I think my dvl collar piece was 5 5/8" round and the flue collar on the stove was exactly 6" round, I could just drop the dvl right to the collar either because I have a convection deck on top of my stove (specific for my brand) and the dvl would just sit flat flush to the stove top, blocking the little vents on the outer skin. When I added the adapter it slid into the flue collar loosely, spent a whole season with a whistle effect when the stove was running on high with an open damper, this season I finally got fed up with it and tried to screw the adapter directly to the collar but the inner liner on the dvl was crimped to small to stretch out on 3 self tapping screws, ended up buying a $8 single wall double male, everything fit very snug and now runs top notch, very happy to figure it out.

 

[begreen]

Yes, DVL fits ok without an appliance adapter on some stoves. You can go with that by what you have described.

Is that grille a supply register? If so, the location looked ok in the picture you posted of the taped-out area. You could just extend it upward the depth of the hearth with a cutout for it on the surface. It could also have a right-angle boot fitted and shoot out the side of the hearth.

 

[pnnf]

If its a snug fit then it should be fine, you'll know when it gets cold out and light a fire, if you hear a whistle noise near the collar anyway.. and its not that big of a deal to add that adapter afterwards. I think my dvl collar piece was 5 5/8" round and the flue collar on the stove was exactly 6" round, I could just drop the dvl right to the collar either because I have a convection deck on top of my stove (specific for my brand) and the dvl would just sit flat flush to the stove top, blocking the little vents on the outer skin. When I added the adapter it slid into the flue collar loosely, spent a whole season with a whistle effect when the stove was running on high with an open damper, this season I finally got fed up with it and tried to screw the adapter directly to the collar but the inner liner on the dvl was crimped to small to stretch out on 3 self tapping screws, ended up buying a $8 single wall double male, everything fit very snug and now runs top notch, very happy to figure it out.

View attachment 285256 View attachment 285257

Thank you for the help. So, Im going to go without using the collar. Do you think i should put some high temp rtv sealant on before installing? I think a whistle would get on my nerves LOL

 

[pnnf]

Yes, DVL fits ok without an appliance adapter on some stoves. You can go with that by what you have described.

Is that grille a supply register? If so, the location looked ok in the picture you posted of the taped-out area. You could just extend it upward the depth of the hearth with a cutout for it on the surface. It could also have a right-angle boot fitted and shoot out the side of the hearth.

Good morning Begreen, Thanks for the help. I decided to go without the appliance adapter. I'm thinking about putting some high temp RTV sealant on the collar before putting the DVL pipe on. KennyP said he installed without an adapter and got a whistle which would drive me crazy lol Do you think the RTV will work? Yes, the register in the picture is a supply register. I decided to do what you suggested which is to take the floor register straight up thru the hearth so that the register vent is sitting on the hearth's surface.

Well, i have the hearth framing completed and the ceiling box is sitting in the ceiling waiting for me to cut a big ole hole in the roof I cant finish the hearth till the hearth stone is delivered but at least I can get everything completed as far as infrastructure. So glad I got 1 single telescoping DVL to go from the stove to the ceiling box its making it so much easier. My plan is to get the chimney installed today. If all goes well I'll send some mid-way pics. wish me luck

 

[kennyp2339]

Thank you for the help. So, Im going to go without using the collar. Do you think i should put some high temp rtv sealant on before installing? I think a whistle would get on my nerves LOL

No, do not do that unless you want to smell rubber / plastic burning every time the stove gets hot. try your way first, you can always add that little connector if it becomes a problem.

 

[pnnf]

No, do not do that unless you want to smell rubber / plastic burning every time the stove gets hot. try your way first, you can always add that little connector if it becomes a problem.

Good morning, wow, never thought of that, thank you! No rtv then, we'll see how it goes without it. I'm getting ready to cut the roof and get the chimney installed. I've been reading and watching some YouTube and ended up with more questions. I'll do a separate post for those. Thanks again

 

[kennyp2339]

I'll do a separate post for those. Thanks again

It might be easier to keep it all on the same thread, lots of good advice here to.

 

[pnnf]

Ok so I have a few more questions ... . First here is a progress pic.

What is the piece on top of the stove? I can't find it by searching, probably because I don't know what it's called.

The ceiling box is 23" and almost reaches the underside of the roof deck. It looks like a collar of some sort.....

After YouTube I have a question about the connector that goes between the DVl and ceiling box. Here is what I'm using...



Is this correct. I saw where there is a DVL connector to use but I can't determine if it is required.





The last two pics are of the DVL dry fitted. You can see how the connections look. Are they correct?

Thanks for all the help. Once it warms up a bit I'll be on the roof.

 

[pnnf]

It might be easier to keep it all on the same thread, lots of good advice here to.

There really is a lot of good advice here, thank y'all so much....Lol, I meant here just didn't want to give you a mile long reply

 

[kennyp2339]

Piece on top of the stove looks like your insulation shield, goes around the class a pipe and acts like a cap keeping any insulation out of the ceiling support box.
Thats the wrong type of connector for the ceiling support box to the dvl, you should have a metal stainless steel ring that clicks into the underside of the ceiling support box then a piece of dvl w/ a flange that can be screwed into the ceiling support box itself, I'll take a pic of mine and post.

 

[pnnf]

Piece on top of the stove looks like your insulation shield, goes around the class a pipe and acts like a cap keeping any insulation out of the ceiling support box.
Thats the wrong type of connector for the ceiling support box to the dvl, you should have a metal stainless steel ring that clicks into the underside of the ceiling support box then a piece of dvl w/ a flange that can be screwed into the ceiling support box itself, I'll take a pic of mine and post.

View attachment 285300

OH, ok. that makes perfect sense. I was thinking a 23" tall box will keep the insulation out but never thought of it falling thru the top. Thank you. I was wondering why my ceiling box connector look wrong...this is what I found on Amazon.

Amazon product ASIN B005IDHXTU
This is the correct one,right? I have two tubes of GEOCEL 2320 is that ok to use for the flashing/storm collar install or should I stick with the GE supreme Silicone I was planning on? Its cold outside but I need to get on the roof. Ill be back soon with some roof pics

 

[pnnf]

ok, maybe I am not allowed to post those types of links,sorry. hers a pic of what I'm looking T.

 

[begreen]

That does not look like a DuraVent ceiling support box. What brand was installed? Selkirk? Supervent?

This is the correct one,right? I have two tubes of GEOCEL 2320 is that ok to use for the flashing/storm collar install or should I stick with the GE supreme Silicone I was planning on?

Use the silicone.

 

[pnnf]

That does not look like a DuraVent ceiling support box. What brand was installed? Selkirk?



Use the silicone.

Ok, I'll use the silicone. The ceiling box is duravent, at least it's on the box I got from tractor supply. I hope wasn't given the wrong box .....

 

[begreen]

Got it, must be the DuraPlus system. I have never installed that. Do you have both the DuraPlus and the DVL install manuals? They have good illustrations of how things go together.

 

[pnnf]

Got it, must be the DuraPlus system. I have never installed that. Do you have both the DuraPlus and the DVL install manuals? They have good illustrations of how things go together.
View attachment 285316

Yes I have the install manuals. Can't really tell by the picture which is which part that I have. I have Tim raines and I have a black adapter and a high polished adapter. Neither one of these look like they're meant for dvl pipe. I opted to use the black one in the picture as it matches the pipe color. But after a dry fitting it didn't look right. I will play with the parts that I have but I was wondering if they offer a separate dvl connector if I should just get that. I'm not sure at this point I guess it'll take some more fiddling around with but I did order the dvl adapter just in case

 

[begreen]

If you got the kit, it comes with 2 adapters. One is for single-wall stovepipe (red x) and the other is for double-wall (green circle) DVL stovepipe. I think that one end of the DVL adapter is 1/8" larger. That end goes into the support box.

 

[begreen]

What is the piece on top of the stove? I can't find it by searching, probably because I don't know what it's called.

I think that is the attic insulation shield. If so, it goes on the attic side of the support box if the top of the support box ends before the roof. The purpose is to stop blown-in insulation or any other debris from falling into the support box which must remain clean inside. We haven't seen pictures of the chimney part of the install yet so I am not sure if it's necessary for your install.

 

[pnnf]

If you got the kit, it comes with 2 adapters. One is for single-wall stovepipe (red x) and the other is for double-wall (green circle) DVL stovepipe. I think that one end of the DVL adapter is 1/8" larger. That end goes into the support box.

View attachment 285317

nice! thank you very much for the colored picture believe it or not that made all the difference for me. I will to dry fit it today. I have scrubbed the install for today. I think its way too cold for the silicone and shingles. I just know id end up breaking at least one shingle, smh. Next Thursday, if the weather man isn't wrong haha, its supposed to 63 degrees. I'm not a gambling man but I feel better about the roof work in warmer temps. Im just going to regroup, reorganize and get my thoughts together till then. Oh and cancel that Amazon order thanks again~