Your thoughts on ideal stack temperatures

[3fordasho]

Measured with magnetic exterior thermometer.

I like to see mine at around 400*-450* anything below that I consider a less of a clean burn (of course coaling stage not considered here). Over 600* I get uncomfortable & I feel like I am wasting fuel.

Your thoughts:

Seems high. I have a probe type thermometer installed about 2' above the stove. I'll see 400F when charing a new load of wood,
but once the air is cut back and cat engaged it will only run 200-250F.

For chits and giggles could you put your external next to your internal and see what the diff is? I find it hard to believe your running 200-250 internal unless it towards the end of the burn. A while ago I asked Woodstock for some internal temp info and they told me they have an internal probe 6' up that reads 400 on a full load.

I have double wall from the stove to the class A insulated so I don't think my external (surface) thermometer will read correctly, plus my straight sections are telescoping (adjustable) sections so in reality they are more than double wall. I am curious though as my temp readings seem lower than everyone elses. When I get a chance I'll try an industrial digital readout temp controller I have laying around, it has an external j-type thermocouple I could stick into the flue easy enough.

And just for clarification, the internal flue is reading 200-250F with the fireview loaded, cat engaged, air inlet between 3/4-1, and reaching stove top temps of 400-525F.

 

[3fordasho]

Measured with magnetic exterior thermometer.

I like to see mine at around 400*-450* anything below that I consider a less of a clean burn (of course coaling stage not considered here). Over 600* I get uncomfortable & I feel like I am wasting fuel.

Your thoughts:

Seems high. I have a probe type thermometer installed about 2' above the stove. I'll see 400F when charing a new load of wood,
but once the air is cut back and cat engaged it will only run 200-250F.

For chits and giggles could you put your external next to your internal and see what the diff is? I find it hard to believe your running 200-250 internal unless it towards the end of the burn. A while ago I asked Woodstock for some internal temp info and they told me they have an internal probe 6' up that reads 400 on a full load.

I have double wall from the stove to the class A insulated so I don't think my external (surface) thermometer will read correctly, plus my straight sections are telescoping (adjustable) sections so in reality they are more than double wall. I am curious though as my temp readings seem lower than everyone elses. When I get a chance I'll try an industrial digital readout temp controller I have laying around, it has an external j-type thermocouple I could stick into the flue easy enough.

And just for clarification, the internal flue is reading 200-250F with the fireview loaded, cat engaged, air inlet between 3/4-1, and reaching stove top temps of 400-525F.

Just checked flue temps- tel-tru was reading 230f. unscrewed it and placed in a j-type thermocouple connected to a omron temp controller. It reads a good 100f higher. So much for the accuracy of the tel-tru or could it be the ONE time l left the air wide open for too long and the guage was pegged at 1000F... doh

At least I can stop worrying about burning too cool and having a creosote factory.

 

[Todd]

Don't feel bad, my Condar probe was way off last year. It was never the same after it got too hot, It was way off and by the time I threw it away the thing would just continue to climb in temp til it pegged out. I don't know if I'll ever trust an internal anymore, I'm sticking to the external one now.

 

[bsa0021]

Just checked flue temps- tel-tru was reading 230f. unscrewed it and placed in a j-type thermocouple connected to a omron temp controller. It reads a good 100f higher. So much for the accuracy of the tel-tru or could it be the ONE time l left the air wide open for too long and the guage was pegged at 1000F... doh

At least I can stop worrying about burning too cool and having a creosote factory.[/quote]




3fordasho: You have to watch those Tel-tru thermometers. They are adjustable and the tolerance (stiffness)for adjustment is pretty loose. I prefer a different brand (I think hamilton) but you still have to be carefull not to turn the head. I finally spent the money at work for digitals to keep me out of hot water...don't ask.
Best way to calibrate and required in (food processing) any thermometer is with a certified mercury thermometer. Bob

 

[3fordasho]

Just checked flue temps- tel-tru was reading 230f. unscrewed it and placed in a j-type thermocouple connected to a omron temp controller. It reads a good 100f higher. So much for the accuracy of the tel-tru or could it be the ONE time l left the air wide open for too long and the guage was pegged at 1000F... doh

At least I can stop worrying about burning too cool and having a creosote factory.

3fordasho: You have to watch those Tel-tru thermometers. They are adjustable and the tolerance (stiffness)for adjustment is pretty loose. I prefer a different brand (I think hamilton) but you still have to be carefull not to turn the head. I finally spent the money at work for digitals to keep me out of hot water...don't ask.
Best way to calibrate and required in (food processing) any thermometer is with a certified mercury thermometer. Bob[/quote]



Thanks for the info, I know certain models are adjustable (have a set screw that you loosen to adjust) but mine does not have the set screw. I am guilty of threading it in and out using the head instead of the hex nut so perhaps I have caused my own problems? If in fact the head has moved in relation to the needle, I will try to recalibrate it.

 

[bsa0021]

Just checked flue temps- tel-tru was reading 230f. unscrewed it and placed in a j-type thermocouple connected to a omron temp controller. It reads a good 100f higher. So much for the accuracy of the tel-tru or could it be the ONE time l left the air wide open for too long and the guage was pegged at 1000F... doh

At least I can stop worrying about burning too cool and having a creosote factory.

3fordasho: You have to watch those Tel-tru thermometers. They are adjustable and the tolerance (stiffness)for adjustment is pretty loose. I prefer a different brand (I think hamilton) but you still have to be carefull not to turn the head. I finally spent the money at work for digitals to keep me out of hot water...don't ask.
Best way to calibrate and required in (food processing) any thermometer is with a certified mercury thermometer. Bob

Thanks for the info, I know certain models are adjustable (have a set screw that you loosen to adjust) but mine does not have the set screw. I am guilty of threading it in and out using the head instead of the hex nut so perhaps I have caused my own problems? If in fact the head has moved in relation to the needle, I will try to recalibrate it.[/quote]

The hex nut is the adjuster. Hold the nut w/pliers and turn the head to match a mercury thermometer (or good known source) immersed in water.

 

[M1sterM]

Class A chimneys are rated for 2100 degrees, right? If so, why is a 450 stack, i.e., 900 internal flue temp, too high?

It's rated to tolerate up to 2100 degrees on 3 seperate occasions (e.g. after 3 chimney fires, time to replace it). It's only rated to 1000 on a continuous basis.

 

[Wrigley]

Thanks for the clarification -- with my old Morso 1125 I try to burn a bit on the hot side to minimize creosote and smoke, with stack temps around 500 early in the burn cycle. So that should still be alright for continuous use ....