Your Air Temps

[Rubicon 327]

I Thank You all for being patient with me and I don't like to be one of those type of people who don't compare "like things" cause I do understand that you just can't do that.I guess I just think that the aitr temp could/should be a bit warmer than it is.....maybe not 180 °F :lol: but better than 120 °F

What is the air flow on the blower in your oil furnace, its firing rate, and so on. However the question you asked of others here on the forum actually causes a comparison between things that vary by a factor of at least 8. Apples to Oranges comes to my mind.

Heat output isn't measured by a thermometer.

You can use it as a stand alone heater, but the beast was designed to move air as a hot air furnace. Its cold air input should be fairly widely separated from its outputs. If you wish to know why drop me a PM.

A lot of the folks that find their way to this forum complain about how long it takes for their room temperature to rise after having fallen overnight or how to get a bit more heat into a room at the end of the hall. You have the means and the duct work to do it quite easily. Others moan when they get told not to attempt a basement install, then go ahead do a basement install, find out the folks that said don't were correct, and so forth. To stop heat loss in duct work you seal the joints and insulate the ducts. Some folks come here looking for assurances that their favorite pick for a stove is correct but fail to divulge any information about their intended use or the building it is going to be used in, then they are back when it can't quite handle the job wondering what happened. So sometimes some of us (in this case me) get a bit out of joint when we see apples being compared to oranges resulting in grapes (any variety).

SmokeyThe Bear,

I agree with you 100% on what you are saying about the blower but the manual makes it sound like it can also be used by it's self as a stand alone heater and doesn't really say you need to hook it up to duct work for it to work correctly.If however that is true I still believe I should be getting warmer air temps than I am because by the time it travels through the duct work ...say 15-20 feet and finally exits it will have probably lost 10-15 °F or more and now I'm back to 100-105 °F or less air blowing out of the duct work 15-20 feeet away from the unit.

Out of my oil fired furnace in the same building I was getting 140 °F ait temps and that was after it blew across the A/C coil and about 10 ft of duct work to the 1st closest register.

I am burning "Maine Woods" Premium Wood Pellets that I got at Tractor Supply When I bought the unit.
It is a US Stove model 6500 multi fuel furnace......which I think is a problem right there. I don't know what CFM the fan is blowing at but it is like a normal forced air system(pretty darn fast) but I would like to think that It would blow warmer temps than what I am getting.

The unit is rated at between 50,000 and 105,00 btu/hr and a heating capacity of 1200 - 2800 sq. ft. and able to hold 320 lbs of pellets. It has 5 heat ranges and the blower automatically adjusts it's speed to the heat range you set it at (no manual over ride)....that they have admitted to yet anyway.

I have mainly operated it at level 3 and 5. Level 3 gives me a high 90 +°F temp with a lower blower fan speed, and 5 gives me about 120 °F at a higher blower fan speed. I have played with the draft fan-damper-agitator speed you name it and I have not seen anything above 120 °F and that didn't even happen until I increased the "pellet feed rate" way above the original setting which was originally set at 14.25 when I was on the phone with customer service and she had me change it to 14.75. Which I had gained 5-7 degrees or so and that got me to around 110 °F Then after an hour or so of it not getting any better I bumped it up to 18.50 or something which got me up to my 120 °F mark.

So before I called Cust Svc and made the changes she had instructed, my highest temps were around 110-115°F on level 5.

Your multi-fuel furnace and that is what it is, has 2 800 CFM blowers, it would make a mockery out of comparing air output temperatures with any of the "normal" pellet stoves that most folk operate. At level 5 the air flow would be a whopping 1600 CFM which is 8.9 to 16.8 times that of most of the pellet stoves on the market.

That device was meant to be attached to duct work with zone dampers.

 

[Phatty]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

 

[MCPO]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

If you`re getting good temps above 150 doesn`t it make more sense to run the fan on high?. It seems it would pull more heat off the heat exchanger and create a better heat transfer.
High temps from your stove is good when you really need the heat but your exhaust temps are going to be higher too. I think there`s a proportional element of heat loss there and because of it I think it makes sense to run the fan at high whenever possible especially when you have the stove cranking.
During the shoulder seasons you can get by with lower heat =lower feed= lower fan speeds.
I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

 

[jtakeman]

I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

Look's like I am not the only one that needs a hobby! :lol:

I do agree Gio. As long the air temp is hot. Makes sense to let it rip. Should circulate more air about the house. Only trouble with my stove is there isn't a hi fan switch. Automated by the control board. But is doesn't mean I can't by pass the control and go direct to 120v source to see what happens. My temps might be lower but maybe it will also increase the efficiency and absord more heat to transfer to the room.

I have been thinking something like what cc did with his Quad. He made a timer circuit to by pass the snap disc. Its takes too long to start his blower with the snap disk. So after the unit fires he times it for a start up. I might be able to do a similar circuit and or also us a snap disc. I have to wait another 2 years before I would do anything. Stove is still under warranty. Not going to void it just yet.

 

[MCPO]

I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

Look's like I am not the only one that needs a hobby! :lol:

I do agree Gio. As long the air temp is hot. Makes sense to let it rip. Should circulate more air about the house. Only trouble with my stove is there isn't a hi fan switch. Automated by the control board. But is doesn't mean I can't by pass the control and go direct to 120v source to see what happens. My temps might be lower but maybe it will also increase the efficiency and absord more heat to transfer to the room.

I have been thinking something like what cc did with his Quad. He made a timer circuit to by pass the snap disc. Its takes too long to start his blower with the snap disk. So after the unit fires he times it for a start up. I might be able to do a similar circuit and or also us a snap disc. I have to wait another 2 years before I would do anything. Stove is still under warranty. Not going to void it just yet.

I managed to wire in a (isolated from the board) distr. fan circuit so i could control it independently. The main benefit is I can run it and get good useable heat off the exchanger when the stove is operating on minimum setting. The factory default wouldn`t allow it to run continuously unless the stove reached a certain temp and IMO it was defaulted at too high of a temp..
But my P-38 has long been off warranty.

 

[jtakeman]

I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

Look's like I am not the only one that needs a hobby! :lol:

I do agree Gio. As long the air temp is hot. Makes sense to let it rip. Should circulate more air about the house. Only trouble with my stove is there isn't a hi fan switch. Automated by the control board. But is doesn't mean I can't by pass the control and go direct to 120v source to see what happens. My temps might be lower but maybe it will also increase the efficiency and absord more heat to transfer to the room.

I have been thinking something like what cc did with his Quad. He made a timer circuit to by pass the snap disc. Its takes too long to start his blower with the snap disk. So after the unit fires he times it for a start up. I might be able to do a similar circuit and or also us a snap disc. I have to wait another 2 years before I would do anything. Stove is still under warranty. Not going to void it just yet.

I managed to wire in a (isolated from the board) distr. fan circuit so i could control it independently. The main benefit is I can run it and get good useable heat off the exchanger when the stove is operating on minimum setting. The factory default wouldn`t allow it to run continuously unless the stove reached a certain temp and IMO it was defaulted at too high of a temp..
But my P-38 has long been off warranty.

Very interested in the circuitry, Maybe I could adapt to mine or something similar. I would want it to turn it self off it it ran out of pellets though. Someday I may adapt the Maxx conv blower into the Omega. Double the CFM(455) as the Omega's blower(200 CFM). But I don't think I could use all of it. I would have to tone it down some.

 

[Lorne41]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

If you`re getting good temps above 150 doesn`t it make more sense to run the fan on high?. It seems it would pull more heat off the heat exchanger and create a better heat transfer.
High temps from your stove is good when you really need the heat but your exhaust temps are going to be higher too. I think there`s a proportional element of heat loss there and because of it I think it makes sense to run the fan at high whenever possible especially when you have the stove cranking.
During the shoulder seasons you can get by with lower heat =lower feed= lower fan speeds.
I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

I've been getting 300F - to 325 F temps with a cheapo oven thermometer on my Englander 25PDVC on a regular basis running it on a feed rate of 2 and a blower speed of 2. If I run the blower on higher settings I get output temps of 150 - 180 F.( higher CFM). I burning those Home Depot Winter Warmth Pellets ( Hamers Hot Ones). On the warmer days lately, I've had to open a kitchen window to let some heat out as it's over 74-76 degrees in my house because it's just wayyyy too hot. My testing is nothing near scientific but it gives an idea of what temps you can get out of of what's available to we regular consumers! The quality and type of the pellets you burn is a deciding factor of what you get out in the form of heat. I've noticed a difference in heat output from different bags of these pellets( 2 different pallets of the same brand pellets) and how often and how thoroughly I clean my stove. Just my 2 cents1----Lorne.

 

[Phatty]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

If you`re getting good temps above 150 doesn`t it make more sense to run the fan on high?. It seems it would pull more heat off the heat exchanger and create a better heat transfer.
High temps from your stove is good when you really need the heat but your exhaust temps are going to be higher too. I think there`s a proportional element of heat loss there and because of it I think it makes sense to run the fan at high whenever possible especially when you have the stove cranking.
During the shoulder seasons you can get by with lower heat =lower feed= lower fan speeds.
I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

yes geo i normally do but i was courious as to th etemp. at slower speed.its 40°F here today i did the lower fan speed before i shut it down for cleaning. i normally run the stove on 1,2,3 depending on the outside temps and the fan on 9 but the temps coming out are cooler around 180 to 190 °F. ive only had it up to 9 before i changed the misterious 3 buttons and plugged the large holes on the back top of the burn pot w steelwool. i went to the grain store to pick up feed and stopped to look at the englanders on the floor, when i opened the door to look at the burnpot the large holes were not there :-/. wonder if they figured out it was a design flaw

 

[ChandlerR]

Ya know, I was thinking. If you slowed down the roon air fan, would the temp go up? I think the answer is yes. The tubes are an air to air heat exchanger. If you slow the spped or volume of air going through the tubes, there will be more "dwell time". The tubes will be hotter because the air will not be carrying as much heat away from the tubes. Manufactures know this and try to size the blowers to keep the tubes relatively cool. They don't want the tubes to get so hot they melt or warp. Most stoves will vary the speed between the low heat settings and the high. My stove has two speeds. One lower setting for #1 heat setting and a higher speed for all the others. I have thought about designing a circuit to vary the blower speed and, using my well used temperature controller, have the blower speed increase at a certain setpoint. I'll have to wait until my warranty is up but I may just get things designed in the meantime.

Chan

 

[MCPO]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

If you`re getting good temps above 150 doesn`t it make more sense to run the fan on high?. It seems it would pull more heat off the heat exchanger and create a better heat transfer.
High temps from your stove is good when you really need the heat but your exhaust temps are going to be higher too. I think there`s a proportional element of heat loss there and because of it I think it makes sense to run the fan at high whenever possible especially when you have the stove cranking.
During the shoulder seasons you can get by with lower heat =lower feed= lower fan speeds.
I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

I've been getting 300F - to 325 F temps with a cheapo oven thermometer on my Englander 25PDVC on a regular basis running it on a feed rate of 2 and a blower speed of 2. If I run the blower on higher settings I get output temps of 150 - 180 F.( higher CFM). I burning those Home Depot Winter Warmth Pellets ( Hamers Hot Ones). On the warmer days lately, I've had to open a kitchen window to let some heat out as it's over 74-76 degrees in my house because it's just wayyyy too hot. My testing is nothing near scientific but it gives an idea of what temps you can get out of of what's available to we regular consumers! The quality and type of the pellets you burn is a deciding factor of what you get out in the form of heat. I've noticed a difference in heat output from different bags of these pellets( 2 different pallets of the same brand pellets) and how often and how thoroughly I clean my stove. Just my 2 cents1----Lorne.

It`s amazing that your stove doesn`t shut down on overfire with temps like that and blower running only at #2 . You are not utilizing the blowers ability to extract more heat off the exchanger.
You also can lower the feed rate on #2 for lower burns so you don`t have to open a window.

 

[joefraser]

Ya know, I was thinking. If you slowed down the roon air fan, would the temp go up? I think the answer is yes. The tubes are an air to air heat exchanger. If you slow the spped or volume of air going through the tubes, there will be more "dwell time". The tubes will be hotter because the air will not be carrying as much heat away from the tubes. Manufactures know this and try to size the blowers to keep the tubes relatively cool. They don't want the tubes to get so hot they melt or warp. Most stoves will vary the speed between the low heat settings and the high. My stove has two speeds. One lower setting for #1 heat setting and a higher speed for all the others. I have thought about designing a circuit to vary the blower speed and, using my well used temperature controller, have the blower speed increase at a certain setpoint. I'll have to wait until my warranty is up but I may just get things designed in the meantime.

Chan

I can tell you a few weeks ago I was getting much warmer temps than I was used too (30-40 degrees). It ended up being because the combustion blower grate was full like the lint trap on a drier. Needless to say, I cleaned it and my temps dropped but I was getting dramatically nmore air from the blower (I know I should have cleaned it previously....burned about 2.5 tons so far). In this case the higher temp was not a good thing....

 

[ChandlerR]

Ya know, I was thinking. If you slowed down the roon air fan, would the temp go up? I think the answer is yes. The tubes are an air to air heat exchanger. If you slow the spped or volume of air going through the tubes, there will be more "dwell time". The tubes will be hotter because the air will not be carrying as much heat away from the tubes. Manufactures know this and try to size the blowers to keep the tubes relatively cool. They don't want the tubes to get so hot they melt or warp. Most stoves will vary the speed between the low heat settings and the high. My stove has two speeds. One lower setting for #1 heat setting and a higher speed for all the others. I have thought about designing a circuit to vary the blower speed and, using my well used temperature controller, have the blower speed increase at a certain setpoint. I'll have to wait until my warranty is up but I may just get things designed in the meantime.

Chan

I can tell you a few weeks ago I was getting much warmer temps than I was used too (30-40 degrees). It ended up being because the combustion blower grate was full like the lint trap on a drier. Needless to say, I cleaned it and my temps dropped but I was getting dramatically nmore air from the blower (I know I should have cleaned it previously....burned about 2.5 tons so far). In this case the higher temp was not a good thing....

I have two very fuzzy goldens so every week I check my room fan. I expected more fur than I find but I think it's because there is a very large area for the fan to pull the air from and because my wife is nuts on daily vacuuming I always say that my vacuums don't die, they commit suicide!

See? There is another reason to monitor temps. You saw the increase and knew something was wrong.



Chan

 

[Lorne41]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

If you`re getting good temps above 150 doesn`t it make more sense to run the fan on high?. It seems it would pull more heat off the heat exchanger and create a better heat transfer.
High temps from your stove is good when you really need the heat but your exhaust temps are going to be higher too. I think there`s a proportional element of heat loss there and because of it I think it makes sense to run the fan at high whenever possible especially when you have the stove cranking.
During the shoulder seasons you can get by with lower heat =lower feed= lower fan speeds.
I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

I've been getting 300F - to 325 F temps with a cheapo oven thermometer on my Englander 25PDVC on a regular basis running it on a feed rate of 2 and a blower speed of 2. If I run the blower on higher settings I get output temps of 150 - 180 F.( higher CFM). I burning those Home Depot Winter Warmth Pellets ( Hamers Hot Ones). On the warmer days lately, I've had to open a kitchen window to let some heat out as it's over 74-76 degrees in my house because it's just wayyyy too hot. My testing is nothing near scientific but it gives an idea of what temps you can get out of of what's available to we regular consumers! The quality and type of the pellets you burn is a deciding factor of what you get out in the form of heat. I've noticed a difference in heat output from different bags of these pellets( 2 different pallets of the same brand pellets) and how often and how thoroughly I clean my stove. Just my 2 cents1----Lorne.

It`s amazing that your stove doesn`t shut down on overfire with temps like that and blower running only at #2 . You are not utilizing the blowers ability to extract more heat off the exchanger.
You also can lower the feed rate on #2 for lower burns so you don`t have to open a window.

Hi Gio, I've been burning the HD Winter Warmth Pellets which are made by Hamer's Hot Ones and they do run a heck of a lot hotter than other pellets I've burned. I've been fine tuning my stove so that I get the max heat out of them on those setting. If I increase my blower fan speed the temps drop to around 200 to 250 depending on what type of pellet I'm burning. I'm running my pellet stove in the high burning range too. I have a room fan that helps distribute the heat to other rooms in the house also. So I'm really happy with the stove and these HD WW pellets. Too bad my local HD is out of them right now but I have 1.5 tons of them on hand so they'll get me thru most of the Winter. ----Lorne.

 

[MCPO]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

If you`re getting good temps above 150 doesn`t it make more sense to run the fan on high?. It seems it would pull more heat off the heat exchanger and create a better heat transfer.
High temps from your stove is good when you really need the heat but your exhaust temps are going to be higher too. I think there`s a proportional element of heat loss there and because of it I think it makes sense to run the fan at high whenever possible especially when you have the stove cranking.
During the shoulder seasons you can get by with lower heat =lower feed= lower fan speeds.
I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

I've been getting 300F - to 325 F temps with a cheapo oven thermometer on my Englander 25PDVC on a regular basis running it on a feed rate of 2 and a blower speed of 2. If I run the blower on higher settings I get output temps of 150 - 180 F.( higher CFM). I burning those Home Depot Winter Warmth Pellets ( Hamers Hot Ones). On the warmer days lately, I've had to open a kitchen window to let some heat out as it's over 74-76 degrees in my house because it's just wayyyy too hot. My testing is nothing near scientific but it gives an idea of what temps you can get out of of what's available to we regular consumers! The quality and type of the pellets you burn is a deciding factor of what you get out in the form of heat. I've noticed a difference in heat output from different bags of these pellets( 2 different pallets of the same brand pellets) and how often and how thoroughly I clean my stove. Just my 2 cents1----Lorne.

It`s amazing that your stove doesn`t shut down on overfire with temps like that and blower running only at #2 . You are not utilizing the blowers ability to extract more heat off the exchanger.
You also can lower the feed rate on #2 for lower burns so you don`t have to open a window.

Hi Gio, I've been burning the HD Winter Warmth Pellets which are made by Hamer's Hot Ones and they do run a heck of a lot hotter than other pellets I've burned. I've been fine tuning my stove so that I get the max heat out of them on those setting. If I increase my blower fan speed the temps drop to around 200 to 250 depending on what type of pellet I'm burning. I'm running my pellet stove in the high burning range too. I have a room fan that helps distribute the heat to other rooms in the house also. So I'm really happy with the stove and these HD WW pellets. Too bad my local HD is out of them right now but I have 1.5 tons of them on hand so they'll get me thru most of the Winter. ----Lorne.

Hi Lorne,
I wish I had access to some of those Hamers Hot ones. Yeah, I`m really convinced that it`s more beneficial to run the distribution fan at higher speeds (even wide open) whenever it`s possible and if the noise is not intrusive since it draws the heat off the heat exchanger more efficiently than a slow running fan particularly when at higher burning settings. The air temperature blowing out is of less importance and pretty much inconsequential with regards to heating an area as long as the stove is running good.

 

[Cliff]

I noticed that you are getting temperature readings from your pellet stove. How and what would i get to measure my temp for different pellets?

Thx

 

[CanadaClinker]

I noticed that you are getting temperature readings from your pellet stove. How and what would i get to measure my temp for different pellets?

Thx

......hey Wood-E...... welcome to the forum...... check out this 'Link' for some of what you seek.... be sure to check out my 'turkey' probe there....... cc

 

[Lorne41]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

If you`re getting good temps above 150 doesn`t it make more sense to run the fan on high?. It seems it would pull more heat off the heat exchanger and create a better heat transfer.
High temps from your stove is good when you really need the heat but your exhaust temps are going to be higher too. I think there`s a proportional element of heat loss there and because of it I think it makes sense to run the fan at high whenever possible especially when you have the stove cranking.
During the shoulder seasons you can get by with lower heat =lower feed= lower fan speeds.
I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

I've been getting 300F - to 325 F temps with a cheapo oven thermometer on my Englander 25PDVC on a regular basis running it on a feed rate of 2 and a blower speed of 2. If I run the blower on higher settings I get output temps of 150 - 180 F.( higher CFM). I burning those Home Depot Winter Warmth Pellets ( Hamers Hot Ones). On the warmer days lately, I've had to open a kitchen window to let some heat out as it's over 74-76 degrees in my house because it's just wayyyy too hot. My testing is nothing near scientific but it gives an idea of what temps you can get out of of what's available to we regular consumers! The quality and type of the pellets you burn is a deciding factor of what you get out in the form of heat. I've noticed a difference in heat output from different bags of these pellets( 2 different pallets of the same brand pellets) and how often and how thoroughly I clean my stove. Just my 2 cents1----Lorne.

It`s amazing that your stove doesn`t shut down on overfire with temps like that and blower running only at #2 . You are not utilizing the blowers ability to extract more heat off the exchanger.
You also can lower the feed rate on #2 for lower burns so you don`t have to open a window.

Hi Gio, I've been burning the HD Winter Warmth Pellets which are made by Hamer's Hot Ones and they do run a heck of a lot hotter than other pellets I've burned. I've been fine tuning my stove so that I get the max heat out of them on those setting. If I increase my blower fan speed the temps drop to around 200 to 250 depending on what type of pellet I'm burning. I'm running my pellet stove in the high burning range too. I have a room fan that helps distribute the heat to other rooms in the house also. So I'm really happy with the stove and these HD WW pellets. Too bad my local HD is out of them right now but I have 1.5 tons of them on hand so they'll get me thru most of the Winter. ----Lorne.

Hi Lorne,
I wish I had access to some of those Hamers Hot ones. Yeah, I`m really convinced that it`s more beneficial to run the distribution fan at higher speeds (even wide open) whenever it`s possible and if the noise is not intrusive since it draws the heat off the heat exchanger more efficiently than a slow running fan particularly when at higher burning settings. The air temperature blowing out is of less importance and pretty much inconsequential with regards to heating an area as long as the stove is running good.

Evening Gio,
Keep checking in at your local HD, they might get a few pallets in, you won't be disappointed. Their Winter Warmth Pellets are the hottest pellet I've ever burned. More than once I've had to turn down the feed rate and increase the room blower to keep it cool. I can only run it on a feed rate of 2 and a blower speed of 2 and above. Below those 2 speeds I get erratic feeding and the fire almost dies out, so 2 and 2 is my minimum and I adjust the low burn feed rate if I need more heat in that range, I also bump up the room blower speed too when needed. I've never had to run it over 4 and 4, it's puts out more than adequate heat for my 1600-1700 sf. ----Lorne.

 

[Lorne41]

I noticed that you are getting temperature readings from your pellet stove. How and what would i get to measure my temp for different pellets?

Thx

Hello, each stove brand runs differently and each is constructed differently so that temps have to be taken in different places depending on what make and model you have. If you post your make and model on this forum, there are a good bunch of very qualified members that can help you.
I'm just using a cheapo oven thermometer that I bought at Wal-Mart. You can use a turkey baster type of probe thermometer also.
Regards-----Lorne.

 

[Birdman Jack]

I noticed that you are getting temperature readings from your pellet stove. How and what would i get to measure my temp for different pellets?

Thx

Hello, each stove brand runs differently and each is constructed differently so that temps have to be taken in different places depending on what make and model you have. If you post your make and model on this forum, there are a good bunch of very qualified members that can help you.
I'm just using a cheapo oven thermometer that I bought at Wal-Mart. You can use a turkey baster type of probe thermometer also.
Regards-----Lorne.

I used my multimeter which has temp probe and got 235 Degrees 1" out from stove in the blower path. It is a 25pdvc Englander with 4 on the feed and blower set to 9 and in mode c.

 

[lessoil]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

If you`re getting good temps above 150 doesn`t it make more sense to run the fan on high?. It seems it would pull more heat off the heat exchanger and create a better heat transfer.
High temps from your stove is good when you really need the heat but your exhaust temps are going to be higher too. I think there`s a proportional element of heat loss there and because of it I think it makes sense to run the fan at high whenever possible especially when you have the stove cranking.
During the shoulder seasons you can get by with lower heat =lower feed= lower fan speeds.
I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

I've been getting 300F - to 325 F temps with a cheapo oven thermometer on my Englander 25PDVC on a regular basis running it on a feed rate of 2 and a blower speed of 2. If I run the blower on higher settings I get output temps of 150 - 180 F.( higher CFM). I burning those Home Depot Winter Warmth Pellets ( Hamers Hot Ones). On the warmer days lately, I've had to open a kitchen window to let some heat out as it's over 74-76 degrees in my house because it's just wayyyy too hot. My testing is nothing near scientific but it gives an idea of what temps you can get out of of what's available to we regular consumers! The quality and type of the pellets you burn is a deciding factor of what you get out in the form of heat. I've noticed a difference in heat output from different bags of these pellets( 2 different pallets of the same brand pellets) and how often and how thoroughly I clean my stove. Just my 2 cents1----Lorne.

Cheapo thermometer here too!!
Hung it in front of one of the heat vent holes yesterday.

Getting 150F to 175F just maintaining room temp at 73F.
The flame is quite low. Will have to get colder so I can crank it up!!
It's a balmy 23F at 5:40 AM!

 

[MCPO]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

If you`re getting good temps above 150 doesn`t it make more sense to run the fan on high?. It seems it would pull more heat off the heat exchanger and create a better heat transfer.
High temps from your stove is good when you really need the heat but your exhaust temps are going to be higher too. I think there`s a proportional element of heat loss there and because of it I think it makes sense to run the fan at high whenever possible especially when you have the stove cranking.
During the shoulder seasons you can get by with lower heat =lower feed= lower fan speeds.
I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

I've been getting 300F - to 325 F temps with a cheapo oven thermometer on my Englander 25PDVC on a regular basis running it on a feed rate of 2 and a blower speed of 2. If I run the blower on higher settings I get output temps of 150 - 180 F.( higher CFM). I burning those Home Depot Winter Warmth Pellets ( Hamers Hot Ones). On the warmer days lately, I've had to open a kitchen window to let some heat out as it's over 74-76 degrees in my house because it's just wayyyy too hot. My testing is nothing near scientific but it gives an idea of what temps you can get out of of what's available to we regular consumers! The quality and type of the pellets you burn is a deciding factor of what you get out in the form of heat. I've noticed a difference in heat output from different bags of these pellets( 2 different pallets of the same brand pellets) and how often and how thoroughly I clean my stove. Just my 2 cents1----Lorne.

Cheapo thermometer here too!!
Hung it in front of one of the heat vent holes yesterday.

Getting 150F to 175F just maintaining room temp at 73F.
The flame is quite low. Will have to get colder so I can crank it up!!
It's a balmy 23F at 5:40 AM!

I also get 155-190 hanging a thermometer in front of the air holes but again , it means very little when comparing stoves or heat settings. Fan speed has a big effect on the temps.
However just about any method you choose to check one brand of pellets against another in your own stove will work fine as long as your method is consistent and the thermometer is in the same position using the same feed rate and blower speed for all pellets..

 

[jgcable]

The Earth Stove NF2000i Pellet Stove Insert running Home Depot Freedom Fuel

LOW 110 DEGREES
LOW 1 135 DEGREES
MEDIUM 140 DEGREES
MEDIUM 1 160 DEGREES
HIGH 190+ DEGREES (MY THERMOMETER ONLY GOES TO 190)

 

[vvvv]

my englander is set to 1 heat 2 fan with the last of my cubix its putting out 235 °F . i use a tukey frier thermometer in the left side of the heat exchanger tubes

If you`re getting good temps above 150 doesn`t it make more sense to run the fan on high?. It seems it would pull more heat off the heat exchanger and create a better heat transfer.
High temps from your stove is good when you really need the heat but your exhaust temps are going to be higher too. I think there`s a proportional element of heat loss there and because of it I think it makes sense to run the fan at high whenever possible especially when you have the stove cranking.
During the shoulder seasons you can get by with lower heat =lower feed= lower fan speeds.
I was laying in bed awake at 5:30 this morning mulling this.

I've been getting 300F - to 325 F temps with a cheapo oven thermometer on my Englander 25PDVC on a regular basis running it on a feed rate of 2 and a blower speed of 2. If I run the blower on higher settings I get output temps of 150 - 180 F.( higher CFM). I burning those Home Depot Winter Warmth Pellets ( Hamers Hot Ones). On the warmer days lately, I've had to open a kitchen window to let some heat out as it's over 74-76 degrees in my house because it's just wayyyy too hot. My testing is nothing near scientific but it gives an idea of what temps you can get out of of what's available to we regular consumers! The quality and type of the pellets you burn is a deciding factor of what you get out in the form of heat. I've noticed a difference in heat output from different bags of these pellets( 2 different pallets of the same brand pellets) and how often and how thoroughly I clean my stove. Just my 2 cents1----Lorne.

Cheapo thermometer here too!!
Hung it in front of one of the heat vent holes yesterday.

Getting 150F to 175F just maintaining room temp at 73F.
The flame is quite low. Will have to get colder so I can crank it up!!
It's a balmy 23F at 5:40 AM!

I also get 155-190 hanging a thermometer in front of the air holes but again , it means very little when comparing stoves or heat settings. Fan speed has a big effect on the temps.
However just about any method you choose to check one brand of pellets against another in your own stove will work fine as long as your method is consistent and the thermometer is in the same position using the same feed rate and blower speed for all pellets..

consistent method involves consistent weather including temp in house

 

[magsf11]

I am running around 160-180 on # 1 setting

 

[Don2222]

Hello

On My Avalon Astoria I get 235 Degrees on the lowest # 1 heat setting with Logik-e pellets made in Canada.

On the highest heat setting #6 it is over 600 Degrees which I only run when outside temp is below 5 Degrees

I am using a temp probe in the heat exchanger tube to measure the temps.
However the IR gun right in front of the heat exchanger tube measures 240 degrees on the lowest # 1 heat setting so they are close!
The low heat setting above has a fan setting of # 4 and the feed rate is 1.7 lbs per hour.