XXV may have to go
- Thread starter canuck_22
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Whenever you want and put that CO meter all over the place including the soffit area, the attic, the exhaust stream just away from the vent, up high, down low, in between in every room in the house. Just so the missus is happy.
I'm looking at the manual, outside air is 3 inches, the dealer supplied me with a thimble with a 2 inch outside air, it is reduced at the stove with a reducer, is the stove being starved somehow?
What maker and number? An OAK line is just like a vent it should not reduce to a diameter smaller than the intake on the stove. It may be possible to get away with even that if the run is very short and straight.
ETA: I am beginning to have a very strong urge to rant, best I take a break.
He gave me Duravent 4PVP-WTI, looking at the catalog he should have given me 4PVP-WTI3. But again when I mentioned it to him, he said bah that wont matter...grrr
We can give it a whirl and see what falls out before you go after his hind end. I'd go for his hind end anyway.
ETA: Tomorrow
Gavin641774
Member
That's what everyone was telling you from the get go,shorter flue and proper jet cap,in just my opinion jet cap made the difference,
But if a jet cap changes everything and nullifies any adjustment, no one sees a problem with that?
BTW, just got up, testing soon
bogieb
Minister of Fire
I'm sorry, but I just have to say that several people told you to lower your exhaust and you seemed to get all upset that people wouldn't agree that it was the stove. Now a stranger (yes, I know we are strangers here, but we also have a lot of cumulative experience - especially people like Smoky - and we are pretty straight shooter's) tells you to lower the exhaust and BAM, you are all in to try it. Just insulted the heck out of all those people who took their time to try to help you from this forum - and more importantly put your family at risk while you tried other things.
Hope this solves your issues for you - haven't read to the end yet, because I haven't had enough coffee and it has made me really crabby too early in the morning before I go deal with the snow.
Sorry if you think I insulted people here, you read in my post that I went to Ottawa to talk to a pro maybe because I dont believe you guys here, not so, I went there to buy all that I need to go all the way up above the roof line with the proper termination cap. Instead of just selling to me, he persuaded me to lower it and try it, I'm sure it will work today but when we get a nasty NE wind again I'm worried the problem may return, hence my reason for considering going all the way up.
Hey folks he had every reason to consult with a professional.
He wanted to be sure his next attempt was going to work.
I have less respect for the folks he has been dealing with at the stove store place and with the inspector not at least reading him the riot act on venting below an air intake.
canuck_22 is at least listening and more than to just us. We had a discussion about going up amongst other things. I don't feel insulted at all.
I was only sorry that we wouldn't be able to see the stove running just fine and safely when he said he had the stove sold.
He wanted to be sure his next attempt was going to work.
I have less respect for the folks he has been dealing with at the stove store place and with the inspector not at least reading him the riot act on venting below an air intake.
canuck_22 is at least listening and more than to just us. We had a discussion about going up amongst other things. I don't feel insulted at all.
I was only sorry that we wouldn't be able to see the stove running just fine and safely when he said he had the stove sold.
Ambient
Member
Bioburner
Moderator
It's hard to beat boots on the ground in a lot of stove issues. It was unfortunate that those boots had some holes in them in that they never took into account the venting being to close to eves and the predominate winds of the area. Had the dealer ever tested the draft? Possible OAK not being properly matched to stove. This is like GM trying to just get money in the bank and will address problems as they come up in their manufacture of cars and all the recalls. Ones faith in being treated right and fairly soon lead to resentment and reluctance.
It's hard to beat boots on the ground in a lot of stove issues. It was unfortunate that those boots had some holes in them in that they never took into account the venting being to close to eves and the predominate winds of the area. Had the dealer ever tested the draft? Possible OAK not being properly matched to stove. This is like GM trying to just get money in the bank and will address problems as they come up in their manufacture of cars and all the recalls. Ones faith in being treated right and fairly soon lead to resentment and reluctance.
LOL...dont get me going with GM, you can add to that Toyota, both worst possible brand of cars I ever owned and never again.
Before going ahead with the startup I looked at the draft once more and low and behold it went from -.80 to -.65 this morning, how the heck can that be? and yes I waited a least 15 min before testing it. Ok, so we turn the dial, feed pellets and more pellets and more pellets, spill over, 10 minutes later no ignition. The ignition light is on during this time. I stop it, empty the pot, the pot is warm and you can smell the heat from the pellets. Ok, unplug the unit, clean the pot out, pellets not even discolored, start over, same thing. Repeat everything, this time bypassing the Honeywell T-Stat, same thing. BTW no blinking status lights 
Bioburner
Moderator
Well the igniter may be going south. Warranty
My GM just got another recall last week on a long known problem as my car just about went through the garage door as the brakes failed the day before the letter came from GM.
My GM just got another recall last week on a long known problem as my car just about went through the garage door as the brakes failed the day before the letter came from GM.
Let's take stock is the stove connected to the OAK or not?
Is that igniter area free of ash?
Air has to get past the igniter in order to start the fire. The igniter can not be covered with ash.
Is that igniter area free of ash?
Air has to get past the igniter in order to start the fire. The igniter can not be covered with ash.
Oak is connected, was just about to have a look at the igniter for that very reason
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