I've completed a thorough inspection for cracks and can't find any where they could mix with the flue gases. Only the 2 small ones on the front inside the seal area.
wkpoor said:Well not really. The stuff flakes off and piles up in the elbow coming out of the stove and I've never been able to ignite it ever when I've purposely tried by opening the door and letting the flames build up to where they have to be in the outlet pipe. If that won't ignite it what will. I don't know for sure but I've always thought the real dry creosote was pretty harmless and the wet appearing tacky stuff has the potential to ignite..branchburner said:wkpoor said:First off the creosote it totally dry,(not the tacky wet stuff), next I don't have flue temps high enough to ignite it anyway.
No worries then?
wkpoor said:I've completed a thorough inspection for cracks and can't find any where they could mix with the flue gases. Only the 2 small ones on the front inside the seal area.
Pretty typical install so I doubt it. Also buildup was equal in stove pipe and chimney. I'm really wondering if the reducer is acting like a damper.branchburner said:wkpoor said:I've completed a thorough inspection for cracks and can't find any where they could mix with the flue gases. Only the 2 small ones on the front inside the seal area.
Any chance of air entering the actual flue somewhere other than the stove?
BrotherBart said:That sounds exactly like what happened with my old stove when it popped a weld in the back ...............
wkpoor said:I'm really wondering if the reducer is acting like a damper.
youll know when something goes wrong with ur buringing or in your flue.soupy1957 said:BrotherBart said:That sounds exactly like what happened with my old stove when it popped a weld in the back ...............
Interesting point............How would I know if I "popped a weld?" Does a popped weld actually affect the way a fire burns? How? Lets in too much air and forces a hotter burn than normal? What are the safety concerns with a popped weld?
-Soupy1957
wkpoor said:Pretty typical install so I doubt it. Also buildup was equal in stove pipe and chimney. I'm really wondering if the reducer is acting like a damper.branchburner said:wkpoor said:I've completed a thorough inspection for cracks and can't find any where they could mix with the flue gases. Only the 2 small ones on the front inside the seal area.
Any chance of air entering the actual flue somewhere other than the stove?
Sorry Oldspark, I did not do a smoke test as I'm not sure what that is. My reducer is right next to the stove. It would have been a good idea to put it at the thimble. Also I do not have any butterfly damper in the pipe. As for how I load, I just put in wood n hot coals whenever and keep air set for 500 on stove top.oldspark said:And once again can you do a smoke test or did I miss your answer?
A smoke test is unsing a smoldering match, punk, or inscense stick to check for air being sucked in where it is not supposed to, my Nashua had about 5 ft of 8 inch pipe before reducer (not sure if that would help or not), I never ran mine with out the fan but like I say on those old stoves not a lot of people had thermometers on the stove top and I would run the flue around 300 at least and not worry about the stove top, that thing is built like a tank. In the origanal adds they put a stick of dynamite in one and it only broke the door latch.wkpoor said:Sorry Oldspark, I did not do a smoke test as I'm not sure what that is. My reducer is right next to the stove. It would have been a good idea to put it at the thimble. Also I do not have any butterfly damper in the pipe. As for how I load, I just put in wood n hot coals whenever and keep air set for 500 on stove top.oldspark said:And once again can you do a smoke test or did I miss your answer?
Might be worth a try to put 8 inch up to the thimble, how much stove pipe do yu have, you did mention you have a new stove ready to go in?wkpoor said:I just discovered what may be what I thought could be the problem. With an IR thermometer I measured reducer temp vs pipe temp. There is over 100 degree difference just 6" above the reducer and its get cooler from here on up. Thats were I'm loosing the heat and explains the cool pipe above.
Sounds like a good idea (new stove install) what kind of wood are you burning and how hot has the stove top been getting?wkpoor said:Rather than go through the stink of seasoning a new 8" pipe I'll wait a couple of days and just install the Magnolia. Its a 6" stove.
I gotta say cleaning that pipe sure made a difference today. Also I took your advise and just opened er up. Can use the heat today anyway. Its cold with a stiff wind blowing. Since I've opened it up today burn times are real short. I'm adding wood every hour to keep it hot.
Mixture of oak,cherry, walnut,ash,locust,and hickory. Temps today 500-600.oldspark said:Sounds like a good idea (new stove install) what kind of wood are you burning and how hot has the stove top been getting?wkpoor said:Rather than go through the stink of seasoning a new 8" pipe I'll wait a couple of days and just install the Magnolia. Its a 6" stove.
I gotta say cleaning that pipe sure made a difference today. Also I took your advise and just opened er up. Can use the heat today anyway. Its cold with a stiff wind blowing. Since I've opened it up today burn times are real short. I'm adding wood every hour to keep it hot.
A Magnolia is a cheap US Stove mfg commonly sold at TSC stores. No cat jut secondary burn. I did a thorough check of the Nashua before I brought in plus a real good cleaning with air house and leaf blower hehehehe. You are correct, the Nashua uses a clever smoke path deal before exiting the stove.fjord said:Before you take that Magnolia ( ! ) in ( BTW: what's a "Magnolia" stove ?), check your Nashua thoroughly.
An air leak is a good possibility, BUT. Try this: Most of the stoves from the 70's were engineered with either secondary air and/or complex flame/smoke paths to inscrease the amount of BTUs from the stove.
I don't know the Nashua, but the similar Fisher line had a bypass plate that would be used WHEN there was pyrolysis , or a good hot coaled fire.
Check that your Nashua's bypass (if there is one) is not in the closed position. Or,
Take the stove outside, blow the stove out with compressed air or a strong vac in reverse.
So, if the bypass plate(damper) or the internal flame path were blocked (ash, furnace cement, broken firebrick) the exhaust gases from even a hot fire would be cooled before the flue.
For air leaks, dealers have small "smoke bombs" to light in a stove with the flue and air blocked (don't use indoors).
Another appraoch to your creosote dilemma. Give it a try.
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