Check with the local inspecting authority. They may require each vent to have a fusible-link damper in it. These are heat triggered and close when the link melts. Atlanta Supply is a good source.Right makes sense but I thought that was breaking code from other things I've read.
Dampers, vents etc like they will be needed to make this work. I'll have to budget for that.
Randomly cutting vents may lead to unsatisfactory results. They are often too small or poorly located. It helps to understand the way air convects. It needs a return path (cooler air) to replace the displaced warm air that is convecting to the floor above. Often the return air path is an open stairwell. In some cases the stairwell is both the supply and return path with hot air at the top of the door frame and cold air returning at the bottom. That's why a full door opening vs a door vent may be more effective. Also, if floor vents are to be cut for convection they should be large enough and if possible an equal area of return vents put in on the opposite end of the basement. This is to allow a convection loop to develop that heats the most area in the basement and main floor. This is not always possible due to partitions and/or closed-off rooms. Each case needs to be taken as it is.
If this is a daylight basement, try to place the stove on or near the ground level wall so that an OAK can be connected to the stove.