Woodchuck 2900

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.
Gooserider said:
If the gasket doesn't want to stay seated, you could try putting a little bit of high temp silicone caulk in the groove before you put the gasket in. Then put a strip of aluminum foil over the gasket and close the door to make sure everything seats properly while the gasket goop dries. The tin foil will act as a "release" to keep any ooze out from gluing the door shut.

Gooserider

Hi Jarvis!!

This is what I did. Only I didn't use any foil. Just a little bit of High temp (RTV?) Silicone. No more troubles with the gasket. I did this on both the main door and the ash door.

Glad to hear you got her up and running. The smoke alarm game from the shop coat on the stovepipe is fun!! I had the same thing but only got one of my smoke alarms as mine are not linked to each other. That Goodman gas furnace is nice. I've installed quite a few of those. Hope you're happy with your setup ... I'm sure you will be. Thanks for the update.

Charlie
 
fire the plumber for not using that dag gone clean out thats already there ,your set up looks good nice and safe looking
 
The gasket problem went away after a few uses. The problem was it was sticking to the furnace when I opened the door, which pulled it out of the groove in the door. But after a couple of heat/cooling cycles the problem went away.

I had a little more experience with it after I made my post above. Turns out the wood I bought wasn't as dry as I had hoped and I wasn't able to get a decent burn going. My parents had a small amount of wood that had been split and stored inside for several years, so I fired it with that one night last week and had much better results. Once I got it burning strong I was able to heat the house up to 70 degrees (outside temp was in the teens that night). With dry wood and a strong, hot fire my flue temp went up to 400 degrees for a short time, then remained around 350 until the fire started to die down. Never once did I see flames rolling up the heat exchanger pipe and all my heat going up the chimney like my so called plumber claimed would happen. I admit it does look like a goofy design but in reality it seems to work quite well. I doubt I'll fire it anymore this season, I just dont have dry enough wood right now and there's no point in wasting what I have and sooting up the chimney.

As for the plumber, I wish I had never seen him. He left me sitting for over two months with an unfinished plumbing system so I had no running water and couldn't hire anyone else to finish until I tied up the loose ends with that jerk. I was just about ready to hire a lawyer to get it settled when he finally turned over the paper work and I hired a different contractor to finish so I could move in. Lesson learned....I've warned everyone I know to never do business with that worthless scum bag. One mistake I noticed on the wood furnace, he was supposed to allow 8" clearance above the plenum but he didn't...it's more like 3" the way he built it. So, about all I could do was put a piece of cement board on top of the furnace plenum. It never gets that hot, just warm to the touch when there's a fire going...I imagine that extra clearance is in case of a power failure that could overheat the plenum.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.