Woodburner install-how's it look? And a few questions.

[gapman789]

just like the rest, not a pro. but i will piont out what i see.
1 support
2 slope on horizonal pipe
3 Stove with 8" flue running into a 6" chimney
4 should have connector to join single and double wall pipe
5 clearance issue with single wall pipe

a roof support could be used if chimney needs to go higher

not to say you cant get a fire going in the stove and have it work, but things could be made a lot safer
good luck

Duly noted.

I will fix the support with a concrete footer 24"-30" deep.
I will remove the pavers from under the stove legs giving me approx. 5/8" of slope per ft.
I'm going to get the correct piping/connector for the flue going into the 6" chimney.

As far as the clearance issue with the single wall pipe goes: Are you referring to the distance of the stove from the wall, or the amount of the double wall pipe that is protruding thru the inside of the wall? There is about 4" of double wall pipe coming thru the wall. The 8" stove pipe is sleeved over top of the double wall.
I do have more double wall pipe that I can use for the flue? I feel that would take away some of the heat that I would be getting from the stovepipe itself.

Definitely don't want to raise the chimney any higher if at possible. How will I know if the chimney isn't high enough? Fire won't burn worth a damn?
That roof has minimal pitch on it. If I measure over from the cap to the roof, I have every bit of 10'. Or is that a non-issue?

Thanks for the advice guys. That's why I haven't fired this thing up yet.

Not too sound picky, but is 24 to 30 inches going to get you below the frost line for your area?
If not go deeper, the bottom of any footing has to be deeper than the frost will go to stop heaving.

Nice bikes!

Yea, 30" is right at the frost line in my area. Southwest Ohio (cincinnati). Maybe I'll go 31" to be safe. lol
I've never seen it where the ground froze more than 16" though. Of course it could happen, and if it does, I'm moving south to at least Tennessee.
I've 21 yrs. exp. in all things concrete...wish some of that experience was in wood burning stoves.

Thanks for the headsup, and my poor bikes are still cold. I'm taking care of the stove issues today. Weenies on the barbie tonight

 

[gapman789]

Update.
I put the double wall flue in as suggested with the proper connector at the stove.
I also removed the stone pavers from under the stove legs. I now have approx. 1.75" of slope in 4' of flue on the inside, with another 1/2" on the remaining 2' section on the outside of the wall.

This pic is before....

and after....

and what is this ring/adapter? It fits nicely over the double wall pipe. Should it go against the wall at the seam where the (2) sections of double wall connect?
Is it just an added heat shield for protection around the plywood wall area?
It does not fit on the back of the stove, btw.

 

[gapman789]

oops. double posted.

 

[gapman789]

Just wanted to say thanks for all the info and guidance I gathered from you guys.

The stove is up and running and I am more than pleased.
When it's 15 out, I can get the garage up to 55-60 quite easily. I don't need it any warmer than that. Hell, 45 would be good if that's all I could do.
The inside of the stove is 18"x28" and probably 18" tall as well. I can put a good amount of wood in it.

The wall where the double wall pipe goes thru stays cool almost cold, to the touch.
No smoke comes out of the stove door when I open it. That tells me it's drawing well?
There are no smoke or leaks or drips at any of the double wall pipe seams. Everything appears to be good and tight and working great.

I still need to make a better support for the chimney. It's been below freezing for 2 wks now and 8" of snow on top it, so the ground isn't going anywhere soon.

THANKS AGAIN!!...stove keeps my coffee hot too...

...and the dismantling has begun...new swingarm and subframe going on this one....

 

[gapman789]

double post again...?