How can you tell the difference? My current ignition coil looks like the aftermarket one.
WOODBOSS 028?
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How can you tell the difference? My current ignition coil looks like the aftermarket one.
mark cline
Minister of Fire
on the inside of the flywheel ,you'll see a key way and a few letters. if the keyway is at the SEM letters the aftermarket coil won't work.( timing will be off ).you would have to change flywheel to the one with the keyway at the bosch mark. search the forum from the link that i posted for the part #'s
Well hopefully I get luckey. The coil I pulled off looks exactly like this one including where the wires go.
http://store.chainsawr.com/products/stihl-028-chainsaw-bosch-electronic-coil
http://store.chainsawr.com/products/stihl-028-chainsaw-bosch-electronic-coil
If you havent already, you might wanna get a carb kit too to toss in there. Not sure how long it sat with fuel in it.
It actually sat for about a year with no fluids in it. The carb was rebuilt every year. I figured I would try it out and see before I rebuild it.
So... Installed the new ignition today. I have spark! YAY! unfortunately it would not start. I dribbled a little fuel right intot he carb and it fired right up. So looks like I will be rebuilding the carb tomorrow if I can get the kit local.
HDRock
Minister of Fire
you can buy 3/8,. 050 full chisel,
you are misinformed,. 050 3/8 chain without any anti-kickback features are readily available, that's all I run on my bigger saws,
Any local small engine shop (or NAPA ) should have the kits. Walbro is a K10-WAT I think. Dont remember the number for the Tillotson. Just a reminder not to blow through the holes with compressed air or carb cleaner. There are bits that can get damaged from that sorta thing.
Ok rebuilt it today. took about 5 minutes. I also sprayed carb cleaner in all the little holes...... Did not read your post till just now. lmao. Put it back together and no joy. Wouldnt fire. So I pulled the air cleaner back off then poured a capfull of gas directly into the saw and it fired right up and continued running this time. I killed it put it all back together and it fired up fine this time. I killed it put the chain and bar on fired it up and tuned the H/L and idol. Went across the street and cut into the downed 24" ash tree and my god
! Cut rounds off it in like 10 seconds. This thing rocks! I did have to lean out the H a little bit more but other then that I am super stoked!
I do want to thank everyone here for there help and a special thanks to scott for sending me manuals via email!
! Cut rounds off it in like 10 seconds. This thing rocks! I did have to lean out the H a little bit more but other then that I am super stoked!I do want to thank everyone here for there help and a special thanks to scott for sending me manuals via email!
Glad you like it! Pretty good for a freebie (even if you did have to spend the $ on the parts).
Just dont lean it out too much... There are some great links to tuning a saw on the Madsen's site. You will also probably have to tweak it again as the rings wear in a little. Run 93 octane with a good synthetic or semi-synthetic oil and you should be good for lots of wood.
Just dont lean it out too much... There are some great links to tuning a saw on the Madsen's site. You will also probably have to tweak it again as the rings wear in a little. Run 93 octane with a good synthetic or semi-synthetic oil and you should be good for lots of wood.
I figure for the $130 in parts, if I can get a couple years out of it, it will have been worth it. Plus its always fun ripping things apart and seeing how they work.
smokedragon
Minister of Fire
HDRock, I think you are misunderstanding my post. I am not saying that you can't purchase .050 gauge full chisel.......I am saying that if you buy the typical low grade saw at a home improvement store, it will have a .050 gauge chain that is semi-chisel and made for those who do not operate chainsaws on a regular basis. If you buy said .050 replacement chain from the same big box store, it will be that same type of chain..........
More of an indictment on the big box stores. Most places that sell .063 gauge chain, offer more aggressive chain. Most places that sell .050 gauge chain (at least in my part of the world) are catering to people who run their saws less than once a year, and they only sell the low profile, anti-kickback chains.
I will run any chain if it is full chisel and sharp......
HDRock
Minister of Fire
Sorry I did misunderstand, your right , all you will get at a big box store, is safety ,low pro ,green box chain.
Guess I was reading to fast
smokedragon
Minister of Fire
did you change the pulse line and fuel lines?
I would do crank seals also, or at least PV test them.
From the 4 stroke world, I did not understand how touchy and expensive air leaks can be, if not caught anyway.
I would do crank seals also, or at least PV test them.
From the 4 stroke world, I did not understand how touchy and expensive air leaks can be, if not caught anyway.
I did change the lines. I did nothing to teh crank seals. Cut a rank of rounds the other day and was very impressed. I think, this 20" bar is very over sized for it. That said I will be cutting a tree down at a buddies sunday and will put it through its paces.
Just be careful if suddenly you find yourself having to adjust the carb a lot, or it wants to die out when you move to one side or the other. That indicates a possible seal leak.
20" is a LOT for that saw. OK maybe in softwood, but really better for reaching if you are limbing or brushcutting. 16" is the sweet spot, 18" works alright as well.
It came with the 20" I wasn't going to spend money on a new bar and chain before making sure it works well. The ultimate plan is to get a 036 and clean up/rebuild it and put the 20" bar on it and a 16" bar on the 028.
As far as the leak I will keep that in mind. As of now it will cut and I can then sit it down while I fart around and it stays running for as long as it sits there. I have also not adjusted the carb since the initial adjustment. I would guess I will need to adjust it after it gets some more run time and the rings really seat well.
As far as the leak I will keep that in mind. As of now it will cut and I can then sit it down while I fart around and it stays running for as long as it sits there. I have also not adjusted the carb since the initial adjustment. I would guess I will need to adjust it after it gets some more run time and the rings really seat well.
Yup, you are right. It will need to be tweaked some.
Is the bar/chain on there 3/8 or .325? If its .325, you probably dont want that on your 036. If its 3/8, that is definitely not helping you on that saw. But I completely agree with not buying something before you knew it would work.
Is the bar/chain on there 3/8 or .325? If its .325, you probably dont want that on your 036. If its 3/8, that is definitely not helping you on that saw. But I completely agree with not buying something before you knew it would work.
smokedragon
Minister of Fire
I agree. If you got a brand new 028, it would handle and 18 well, and 20 in good conditions. I have an 028 AV, and it is nearly 30 years old. Still runs good, but I'm certain it has less power than when new.
I agree with checking it out first. Sounds like you have a good plan.
That saw with a 16" is a nice cutting saw.
Sooo.... The 028 was sooo nice compared to what I have used, I found a dirt cheap, in bad shape 036.
It actually runs pretty good but has no power. I checked compression and yup low compression. I bought everything to do a full rebuild, but I cant seem to find a service manual in PDF.
One of you guys on here was good enough to email me a service manual for the 028. Any chance you have it for the 036 as well?
It actually runs pretty good but has no power. I checked compression and yup low compression. I bought everything to do a full rebuild, but I cant seem to find a service manual in PDF.
One of you guys on here was good enough to email me a service manual for the 028. Any chance you have it for the 036 as well?
Sounds like you are working on a case of CAD.
This wont end well for your wallet. Soon you start looking at CL, then yard sales, your neighbors garage, the local dump and salvage yard. Sure you look for Stihl or Husky, but then it spreads to Homelite and Macs.... Before too long you have a Pioneer and a Remington, and you heard about this guy that had an old Mall or an Alpina.... Beware!
Back on track, if the 036 is in bad shape, you may want to pressure/vac test it also. You would want to do that before you pull the jug to put in new rings. (well, and after too wouldnt hurt....)
This wont end well for your wallet. Soon you start looking at CL, then yard sales, your neighbors garage, the local dump and salvage yard. Sure you look for Stihl or Husky, but then it spreads to Homelite and Macs.... Before too long you have a Pioneer and a Remington, and you heard about this guy that had an old Mall or an Alpina.... Beware!
Back on track, if the 036 is in bad shape, you may want to pressure/vac test it also. You would want to do that before you pull the jug to put in new rings. (well, and after too wouldnt hurt....)
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