More than "a little", my friend, esp with that much sf to heat. But, it you're like me you'll love every minute of it.Mortimer452 said:
Wood stove recommendations
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To answer your earller question, a fireplace insert fits in your existing fireplace, an EPA fireplace replaces your existing fireplace.
OK, had a gentleman come out yesterday to check things out and give me a bid. Seemed pretty knowledgeable and cleared up alot of confusion I had on terminology.
Stove Insert: Basically a wood stove, designed to fit INSIDE an existing fireplace. Generally designed for masonry fireplaces, pretty limited selection on which of these will work if you have a pre-fab framed-in fireplace.
Hearth Stove: Also basically a wood stove, designed to sit on the hearth of an existing fireplace, and vent through existing chimney. Can work with masonry and most framed-in fireplaces.
EPA Fireplace: It's a fireplace, just designed to be used as a heat source rather than "ambiance."
I guess now I need to call back the other folks I spoke to before, when I told them I was interested in a "stove insert" and described my current setup, most of them sortof poo-poo'd the idea and didn't think I would be able to get a very large unit. What I really want is a complete tear-out of what's in there, and replace with something more efficient, I think if I made the same calls again and used different terminology I would get much different answers.
Anyway the gentleman that came out offered a couple options, one being a Regency hearth stove that puts out 70,000BTU's, roughly $3,800 installed, but it is fugly IMO. With that scenario the existing fireplace & blower vents stay there, and I have to figure out some way to cover/close up the area, I just can't visualize it in my head without looking all cobbled-up. I'm usually more of a function-over-form kindof guy but I do have some limits!
Second option was a (broken link removed to http://www.kozyheat.com/products/woodburning/z42/index.html) fireplace, rated 60,000BTU/hr and would require of course complete tearing out the old one, probably redoing the hearth, maybe even redoing the mantel as well since the new fireplace is taller and I may have clearance issues. Installed cost was right at $5,000, but does not include any masonry work to pretty things back up after the new fireplace is in. Can't imagine that would run much more than $500 or so. This one has the largest firebox of all of them and accepts 22" logs, which I presume would equate to a longer burn time, but I can't find any numbers for burn time on Kozy's website.
Third option same as above, except with a slightly larger Regency fireplace, I think this one but I can't remember for sure, rated 70,000 BTU and a little nicer looking with arched doorways. He said about $1,000 more installed than the Kozi. Don't think the extra $1,000 is worth it for another 10k btu's.
We talked quite a bit and I learned alot. The hardest part about my decision making has been how fireplaces/stoves are rated. It's like comparing apples to oranges with each manufacturer. I see 70,000BTU and 1,800 sqft with one manufacturer and 60,000BTU for 2,500sqft with another. I've decided I really don't care what square footage the stove is "rated" for I'm looking for BTU values only. But even that isn't always clear either. Most list "Maximum" btu and others list BTU/hour which is generally a much lower number. Not sure which one is more meaningful.
Stove Insert: Basically a wood stove, designed to fit INSIDE an existing fireplace. Generally designed for masonry fireplaces, pretty limited selection on which of these will work if you have a pre-fab framed-in fireplace.
Hearth Stove: Also basically a wood stove, designed to sit on the hearth of an existing fireplace, and vent through existing chimney. Can work with masonry and most framed-in fireplaces.
EPA Fireplace: It's a fireplace, just designed to be used as a heat source rather than "ambiance."
I guess now I need to call back the other folks I spoke to before, when I told them I was interested in a "stove insert" and described my current setup, most of them sortof poo-poo'd the idea and didn't think I would be able to get a very large unit. What I really want is a complete tear-out of what's in there, and replace with something more efficient, I think if I made the same calls again and used different terminology I would get much different answers.
Anyway the gentleman that came out offered a couple options, one being a Regency hearth stove that puts out 70,000BTU's, roughly $3,800 installed, but it is fugly IMO. With that scenario the existing fireplace & blower vents stay there, and I have to figure out some way to cover/close up the area, I just can't visualize it in my head without looking all cobbled-up. I'm usually more of a function-over-form kindof guy but I do have some limits!
Second option was a (broken link removed to http://www.kozyheat.com/products/woodburning/z42/index.html) fireplace, rated 60,000BTU/hr and would require of course complete tearing out the old one, probably redoing the hearth, maybe even redoing the mantel as well since the new fireplace is taller and I may have clearance issues. Installed cost was right at $5,000, but does not include any masonry work to pretty things back up after the new fireplace is in. Can't imagine that would run much more than $500 or so. This one has the largest firebox of all of them and accepts 22" logs, which I presume would equate to a longer burn time, but I can't find any numbers for burn time on Kozy's website.
Third option same as above, except with a slightly larger Regency fireplace, I think this one but I can't remember for sure, rated 70,000 BTU and a little nicer looking with arched doorways. He said about $1,000 more installed than the Kozi. Don't think the extra $1,000 is worth it for another 10k btu's.
We talked quite a bit and I learned alot. The hardest part about my decision making has been how fireplaces/stoves are rated. It's like comparing apples to oranges with each manufacturer. I see 70,000BTU and 1,800 sqft with one manufacturer and 60,000BTU for 2,500sqft with another. I've decided I really don't care what square footage the stove is "rated" for I'm looking for BTU values only. But even that isn't always clear either. Most list "Maximum" btu and others list BTU/hour which is generally a much lower number. Not sure which one is more meaningful.
The only meaningful way to compare output/burn time is the firebox size and if it is catalytic or not. Firebox size should also not be taken from the glossy brochures. Get in each stove on your list with a tape measure and see what you can reasonably put in there. A catalytic stove will give you longer burn times when it is warmer out but probably makes little difference this time of year especially in an old large house.
Had another gentleman come out this morning, he doesn't carry any inserts that will fit inside my existing fireplace. Says the doors are the only thing he's allowed to remove for an insert installation, no cutting sheetmetal around the edges to make something fit.
His recommendation was tear-out the existing unit and install a BIS Panorama stove and said it would run about $6,000 installed, and I would have to find my own mason to do the "prettying-up" afterwards. A bit on the high side but looks like a pretty kick-butt unit.
Visited with another shop yesterday, she seemed to think (again based on measurements -- she hasn't seen anything) that the Buck Stove model 91 Catalytic would fit inside the fireplace I have now. She said trimming around the opening to make the insert fit is not only OK, but often necessary in a steel pre-fab fireplace. Ballpark $5,000 installed price, have an appointment for her boss to come out next week.
Frustrating getting all these different answers from folks on what's "allowed" and what's not . . .
His recommendation was tear-out the existing unit and install a BIS Panorama stove and said it would run about $6,000 installed, and I would have to find my own mason to do the "prettying-up" afterwards. A bit on the high side but looks like a pretty kick-butt unit.
Visited with another shop yesterday, she seemed to think (again based on measurements -- she hasn't seen anything) that the Buck Stove model 91 Catalytic would fit inside the fireplace I have now. She said trimming around the opening to make the insert fit is not only OK, but often necessary in a steel pre-fab fireplace. Ballpark $5,000 installed price, have an appointment for her boss to come out next week.
Frustrating getting all these different answers from folks on what's "allowed" and what's not . . .
OK 3rd guy out today. Got his number as a dealer from the RSF website, since I'm really starting to like their Opel 2 and Opel 3 units. Very cool all the options avialable with blower, central air hookup, cold air intake for blower (for positive pressure), you can even add-on a catalytic combustor. Less expensive than many comparable units as well. From what I read on here most people like them pretty well.
Complete tear-out/install of the Opel 2 he bid at $6,500 including central air hookup and the regular blower. I really think this is the best option. The rear 1/2 of the house already stays pretty warm with the propane furnace due to the good air pressure in the vents on that half of the house. The rest of the house (especially upstairs) is pretty cold, mostly due to no pressure in the vents, also some drafty windows up there but I'll get those replaced this summer. The Opel being in the "cold" part of the house should help alot, and if he can tie into the central ductwork at that point will feed the vents in that half of the house and upstairs.
With the blower AND central air hooked up, I can run the regular blower when we're downstairs during the day to keep that part of the house warm, and kick on the central air fan in the evenings/night to keep the upstairs bedrooms warm. Sweet deal. With some luck maybe I won't use the old furnace hardly at all!
Complete tear-out/install of the Opel 2 he bid at $6,500 including central air hookup and the regular blower. I really think this is the best option. The rear 1/2 of the house already stays pretty warm with the propane furnace due to the good air pressure in the vents on that half of the house. The rest of the house (especially upstairs) is pretty cold, mostly due to no pressure in the vents, also some drafty windows up there but I'll get those replaced this summer. The Opel being in the "cold" part of the house should help alot, and if he can tie into the central ductwork at that point will feed the vents in that half of the house and upstairs.
With the blower AND central air hooked up, I can run the regular blower when we're downstairs during the day to keep that part of the house warm, and kick on the central air fan in the evenings/night to keep the upstairs bedrooms warm. Sweet deal. With some luck maybe I won't use the old furnace hardly at all!
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