Wood stove over wood furnace?

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I've posted this info in a few other places, but it looks as if it fits in here too...


Wood has about 8000 to 8700 btu’s per lb available to be made if it has a moisture content of 20% or lower.
With out a reburn burning the smoke you are loosing out on 30-40% of the heat that is available.
Next ,once you have made the heat you need thermal mass to help retain the heat from flowing out your flue pipe.

The more dense the bricks are the more heat they can soak up and exchange through the heat exchange surface area.
The more heat exchange surface area the more heat and the faster it will exchange instead of going out your flue.
Cycling burn rates with a thermostat giving the furnace time to exchange the heat is also key and lastly a barometric draft regulator in the flue alleviating draft speeds is nessesary.Better furnaces allow for a .04 which equates to about a 400 degree flue gas temp or stack temp.Any hotter and you are waisting your heat.Any cooler and those flues gases can condense to liquid.
Burning solid fuel with a full natural draft will be about .08” of water column which is not nessesary. A draft only needs to be fast enough for good combustion and proper venting.



There's been mention of which one too look at.
Yukon's have all of these features.
As to the guy that has mentioned wood/oil. Make sure they are UL listed...not just tested to UL391 by some out of date testing facility.
These units as per code need to maintain that listing like Yukon does.
 
the Englander 28-3500 is a good furnace and will easily heat a 2,000 sq house ,inital startup uses a good amount of wood to get a thick coal bed and get things hot but you can just add an armload of wood (takes huge 25inch logs too)simply damper it down and cruise for hours on end at 400 ish degrees,nice viweing window and blower power is just right for the ductwork .just wish it had secondary burn tubes ,been doing alot of research lately and i may add some to mine this summer and really cut down on my wood usage .my dad has a 10 year old hotblast furnace and it is a real piece of crap in my opinion poor inefficent design,seems the heat is nothing spectacular and it eats wheelbarrow loads of hardwood in a day
 
I've been pretty happy on the amount of wood my Daka has used. I had a little over 4 full cords cut this year and estimate that it will last me until the end of this season (hopefully April!). I'm planning on putting at least one duct run to the garage next year, so I'm planning to have 6-7 cords available.
 
furnace would do better job however i heated my last home with a hot blast and after getting the jaket sealed with high temp silicon and keeping the screws tight and repacing a fan motor and banging on the side at 2 am to stop the buzzing from the jacket expanding and lossing the paint on the side when power went out it did the job,there are better units maybe not cheaper, just my opinion,good luck !
 
my dads hotblast only gets about 4-5 hours between charges o n a good day with seasoned hardwood ,his one blower motor took a crap on him and the paint flakesoff the jacket panels easily ,i dont care for the lower angled firebox layout and the damper is a adjustable knob built into the door and doesnt seem to work that good compared to a slide damper setup .I think they are made in China.
 
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