I've posted this info in a few other places, but it looks as if it fits in here too...
Wood has about 8000 to 8700 btu’s per lb available to be made if it has a moisture content of 20% or lower.
With out a reburn burning the smoke you are loosing out on 30-40% of the heat that is available.
Next ,once you have made the heat you need thermal mass to help retain the heat from flowing out your flue pipe.
The more dense the bricks are the more heat they can soak up and exchange through the heat exchange surface area.
The more heat exchange surface area the more heat and the faster it will exchange instead of going out your flue.
Cycling burn rates with a thermostat giving the furnace time to exchange the heat is also key and lastly a barometric draft regulator in the flue alleviating draft speeds is nessesary.Better furnaces allow for a .04 which equates to about a 400 degree flue gas temp or stack temp.Any hotter and you are waisting your heat.Any cooler and those flues gases can condense to liquid.
Burning solid fuel with a full natural draft will be about .08” of water column which is not nessesary. A draft only needs to be fast enough for good combustion and proper venting.
There's been mention of which one too look at.
Yukon's have all of these features.
As to the guy that has mentioned wood/oil. Make sure they are UL listed...not just tested to UL391 by some out of date testing facility.
These units as per code need to maintain that listing like Yukon does.
Wood has about 8000 to 8700 btu’s per lb available to be made if it has a moisture content of 20% or lower.
With out a reburn burning the smoke you are loosing out on 30-40% of the heat that is available.
Next ,once you have made the heat you need thermal mass to help retain the heat from flowing out your flue pipe.
The more dense the bricks are the more heat they can soak up and exchange through the heat exchange surface area.
The more heat exchange surface area the more heat and the faster it will exchange instead of going out your flue.
Cycling burn rates with a thermostat giving the furnace time to exchange the heat is also key and lastly a barometric draft regulator in the flue alleviating draft speeds is nessesary.Better furnaces allow for a .04 which equates to about a 400 degree flue gas temp or stack temp.Any hotter and you are waisting your heat.Any cooler and those flues gases can condense to liquid.
Burning solid fuel with a full natural draft will be about .08” of water column which is not nessesary. A draft only needs to be fast enough for good combustion and proper venting.
There's been mention of which one too look at.
Yukon's have all of these features.
As to the guy that has mentioned wood/oil. Make sure they are UL listed...not just tested to UL391 by some out of date testing facility.
These units as per code need to maintain that listing like Yukon does.