Wood Stove Insert decision- Englander or Drolet?

[No Gas]

New stove hype let's gooooo! Pretty good getting someone for 1/9 my guy is booked thru May this time of year. Good luck!

Keep us updated. I'm curious how you like the 1800i. That's the newer version of my stove like I mentioned just a little different trim.

LOL! Yea I can't wait. My wife now wants the stove here and running like yesterday. I said the chimney isn't getting cleaned until 1/9 so we have time. She thinks you call and they just show up. If I wasn't installing this we probably wouldn't be using it this season.

 

[begreen]

Do you have dry firewood already split, stacked, and top-covered?

 

[No Gas]

Do you have dry firewood already split, stacked, and top-covered?

Not a whole bunch but I have some. It's about 10' long 5' high rack full. I need to start scrounging some up or buy it for next season.

 

[EbS-P]

The

Well I've finally decided! I'm going with the Drolet 1800 insert trio kit. I have a chimney sweep/inspection scheduled- earliest I could get was 1/9. I tried to order the Drolet from their site and it keeps giving an error. Clicked the button 4x and it wont go through. I hope I didn't' just order 4 stoves. I tried to call them to order but they are closed. I'll try again on Tuesday. In the mean time i'll order the rest of what i need from Rockford Chimney supply. For the liner insulation do I need 1/4" or 1/2"? Clearance shouldn't be an issue. I also need to get to lowes or hd and get some metal to fab up a block off plate.

1/2 inch is code

 

[No Gas]

The

1/2 inch is code

Thank you. I'll order that through Rockford. Good news is my stove order went through. Drolet escape 1800 insert with trio kit - 25' liner. The email says it should ship tomorrow- cant wait. Although it's going to be in the 50's here all week....

 

[Caw]

Winter is an endangered season. 🥺

 

[No Gas]

Winter is an endangered season. 🥺

LOL- until i need to get on the roof and install the liner!

 

[No Gas]

Update! Old gas logs and gas line removed. Stove and liner showed up last week and got it wrestled down to fireplace room. Wish they would have packaged it better. It's got scuffs and what not from shipping/rubbing. Fan was just placed inside banging around on the fire bricks from MI to NJ. Damper and liner insulation showed up today. My fancy flip top rain cap is not shipping until 1/15 so I'll use what came with the liner kit in the mean time. Chimney inspection Tuesday/tomorrow morning. My bricklayer buddy is coming over tomorrow night to fix some joints in the fire box and fill the hole from the gas line. I cleaned the fire box bricks with some TSP substitute- worked ok I guess. The pics below are before I cleaned it. Thursday after work I'm hacking the flue/damper up to fit the liner. Friday painting the fire box bricks with some Rutland black stove paint- 16oz can- brush/roll on- hope its enough. Saturday is install. Sunday is supposed to be cold- hopefully can grab a cord or 1/2 cord of wood- guy sells some good seasoned hardwood local although its not cheap. I have probably 1/2 cord in stock. Not sure on moisture- meter should be here Friday.



Didn't really need one but fabbed up a new ash box. Not perfect but wasnt spending $100+ on a new ash caddy. It doesn't need to hold anything- I'm going to pack it with insulation to keep the cold from coming in.



Lastly I made a block off plate. It's just press fitted in there now- not sure if I'll even need to secure it with some tap cons. It doesn't move- even without insulation it cut 99% of the cold draft leaking in. Last question for now- didn't even take it out of the box yet but is the vortex liner directional?

 

[begreen]

Last question for now- didn't even take it out of the box yet but is the vortex liner directional?

Yes. From Drolet for the Vortex liner:
THE LINER IS DIRECTIONAL. EVERY LINER HAS TAPE THAT HAS AN ARROW AND “UP” ON ONE END. THE LOCK IS DIRECTIONAL SO IF INSTALLED UP-SIDE DOWN, CREOSOTE CAN GET ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE LINER.

 

[xterra]

Congratulations - you have found the Stove Nuts. this site helped me a great deal, and still does.

I also had an issue with the Drolet website last month, had to switch to the newest browser and went through without a hitch. My only complaint - and not even a complaint, is I prefer a screened cap and will probably swap one on in the future. Drolet had the stove to my dad's house in 3 days (Lehigh Valley, PA) and the delivery service had a Moffet to move the stove as close to the house as possible. posted this on several Drolet threads because I'm overall happy with it. Running an Ironstrike Montlake 300 insert at my place full time for comparison.

 

[xterra]

Sorry my post came a little late... the last 3 comments or so never loaded until i hit reply. Good luck with the new stove.

 

[No Gas]

Ok. Level 2 chimney inspection done and failed. Luckily I'm not and never will be using it as a fireplace. All good to install the stove and liner. He did advise against installing the key damper. He says on a free standing stove yes but on an insert with a flexible liner he never does and never needed one. He said there is a chance for it to dirty things up. Not sure if I should install it since I have it or see how it runs first. Anyway, I have a bricklayer buddy coming over tonight to fix the mortar joints, missing mortar, and fill what can be reached in the smoke chamber. Whoever built this chimney 40 plus years ago- I hope they found a new profession shortly after they built this one. Chimney guy said unfortunately 40 years ago there were minimal codes for chimneys and the quality all depended on who the contractor was.

 

[begreen]

If the chimney doesn't have proper clearance from any combustible, then the liner must be insulated to be code compliant. With 22' of liner the stove could work fine without a damper. If it's more like 25+ ft, then it may need one. The installer might never have installed one, but the pros here have. It's not always easy, but when needed, it's better than having a hard to control stove.

PS: nicely done so far. Thanks for posting the pictures.

 

[No Gas]

If the chimney doesn't have proper clearance from any combustible, then the liner must be insulated to be code compliant. With 22' of liner the stove could work fine without a damper. If it's more like 25+ ft, then it may need one. The installer might never have installed one, but the pros here have. It's not always easy, but when needed, it's better than having a hard to control stove.

PS: nicely done so far. Thanks for posting the pictures.

Thanks! Yes I believe it has the proper clearance but I bought the 1/2" insulation kit so it's getting installed. Chimney guy said insulation is code around here anyway. The liner will prob be 22-23'. I have the damper so I'm putting it in just in case. I've read where these drolet 1800's breath easy and take off quick especially with a 20' plus liner. Getting this liner lined up is going to be tight. I may have to remove some bricks.

 

[Caw]

Thanks! Yes I believe it has the proper clearance but I bought the 1/2" insulation kit so it's getting installed. Chimney guy said insulation is code around here anyway. The liner will prob be 22-23'. I have the damper so I'm putting it in just in case. I've read where these drolet 1800's breath easy and take off quick especially with a 20' plus liner. Getting this liner lined up is going to be tight. I may have to remove some bricks.

It's interesting how the insulated liner thing varies by who you talk to. I certainly agree with folks here that it's better to have one if you can, and especially if there are clearance issues. That's not what they chimney guys say everywhere though. I had three people out for my install way back and not one recommended insulation. My stove runs fine with the uninsulated liner in the external chimney thankfully and I think I'd certainly need a key damper installed if it were insulated. I have borderline too much draft as is with the 24' chimney. I combat it with good loading technique and quick air turn downs. I think it's worth installing on your insulated 22'. It won't hurt if you don't use it and it's there if you do.

 

[No Gas]

It's interesting how the insulated liner thing varies by who you talk to. I certainly agree with folks here that it's better to have one if you can, and especially if there are clearance issues. That's not what they chimney guys say everywhere though. I had three people out for my install way back and not one recommended insulation. My stove runs fine with the uninsulated liner in the external chimney thankfully and I think I'd certainly need a key damper installed if it were insulated. I have borderline too much draft as is with the 24' chimney. I combat it with good loading technique and quick air turn downs. I think it's worth installing on your insulated 22'. It won't hurt if you don't use it and it's there if you do.

Yes I'm gong to install the damper since I have it already- rather than kick myself for not putting it in. By the looks of the opening this is going to be a bit of pain getting the liner to line up with the stove. That leads me to another question. My key damper is going in my adapter since there is no where else to put it. Do I wait until I have the liner down into the fire box to attach the stove adapter? I think if I install damper and adapter to the liner the damper handle is going to get caught on the way down and then the handle wont be orientated to where I want. I think trying to twist the liner to orientate the handle once it's down is going to be out of the question. As for the insulation- I don't know if it's required. I already bought it- it was expensive so that's going in too. Brick layer buddy was just here- he fixed all the mortar joints within reach. Busy tomorrow night- Thursday night I plan on clearancing the current flue damper for the liner.

 

[Caw]

I'll leave that question to the experts. Nice you're getting work done though, good luck!

 

[begreen]

It's interesting how the insulated liner thing varies by who you talk to. I certainly agree with folks here that it's better to have one if you can, and especially if there are clearance issues. That's not what they chimney guys say everywhere though. I had three people out for my install way back and not one recommended insulation. My stove runs fine with the uninsulated liner in the external chimney thankfully and I think I'd certainly need a key damper installed if it were insulated. I have borderline too much draft as is with the 24' chimney. I combat it with good loading technique and quick air turn downs. I think it's worth installing on your insulated 22'. It won't hurt if you don't use it and it's there if you do.

That's usually because they are trying to keep bids low. It's also why one rarely sees a block-off plate recommended. A lot of these companies try to get in two installs a day. Added work makes that harder.

 

[No Gas]

That's usually because they are trying to keep bids low. It's also why one rarely sees a block-off plate recommended. A lot of these companies try to get in two installs a day. Added work makes that harder.

It all about the $$$$ anymore. Out of curiosity I asked the chimney guy what he would charge to install my setup. He said he doesn't install customer supplied stoves and doesn't do many installs anymore- sticks more to chimney inspections. He did say when he does do them they start at $8500 installed- I didn't even ask what kind of stove or if that included a block off plate....

As for my liner dilemma I think I figured what to do. I will install the adapter to the liner so the liner end doesn't get all boogered up, run the liner down and get it as close as I can get to the stove, then remove the adapter, install the damper, then reinstall the adapter on the liner so it's lined up where I want, and then secure it the stove. It's going to be a pita with the block off plate. For less headache I think I'm going to have to cut an oversized hole in that. Then i will use another 2 piece plate to cover up the excess hole. I'll post pics when I get to that.

 

[EbS-P]

Thanks! Yes I believe it has the proper clearance but I bought the 1/2" insulation kit so it's getting installed. Chimney guy said insulation is code around here anyway. The liner will prob be 22-23'. I have the damper so I'm putting it in just in case. I've read where these drolet 1800's breath easy and take off quick especially with a 20' plus liner. Getting this liner lined up is going to be tight. I may have to remove some bricks.

A damper helped mine it’s a straightforward install. Just get a long drill bit.

 

[EbS-P]

Yes I'm gong to install the damper since I have it already- rather than kick myself for not putting it in. By the looks of the opening this is going to be a bit of pain getting the liner to line up with the stove. That leads me to another question. My key damper is going in my adapter since there is no where else to put it. Do I wait until I have the liner down into the fire box to attach the stove adapter? I think if I install damper and adapter to the liner the damper handle is going to get caught on the way down and then the handle wont be orientated to where I want. I think trying to twist the liner to orientate the handle once it's down is going to be out of the question. As for the insulation- I don't know if it's required. I already bought it- it was expensive so that's going in too. Brick layer buddy was just here- he fixed all the mortar joints within reach. Busy tomorrow night- Thursday night I plan on clearancing the current flue damper for the liner.

Yes wait until it’s all installed.

 

[No Gas]

Well I got the stove installed today. I love it already. Was somewhat of a pita but it came out better than expected. I put the key damper in as well. Damper running open right now- it's only 32 degrees out. Hopefully I'll never need it. I really needed a 15 degree adapter but made it work. If I ever have to take it apart I'll swap one in then. I'll post pics Sunday or Monday. Picking up 1/2 cord of wood tomorrow morning. Got a small fire going in it now- I'll let that burn out overnight. Do another tomorrow morning then I should be ok to let er rip. Stove and pipe temps are in the 280-290's. House temp holding at 70 upstairs. Bedrooms are little cooler. The smell of the new stove stinks but it's not too bad. Come monday highs in the low 30's....

 

[Caw]

Well I got the stove installed today. I love it already. Was somewhat of a pita but it came out better than expected. I put the key damper in as well. Damper running open right now- it's only 32 degrees out. Hopefully I'll never need it. I really needed a 15 degree adapter but made it work. If I ever have to take it apart I'll swap one in then. I'll post pics Sunday or Monday. Picking up 1/2 cord of wood tomorrow morning. Got a small fire going in it now- I'll let that burn out overnight. Do another tomorrow morning then I should be ok to let er rip. Stove and pipe temps are in the 280-290's. House temp holding at 70 upstairs. Bedrooms are little cooler. The smell of the new stove stinks but it's not too bad. Come monday highs in the low 30's....

Pics or it didn't happen!

 

[No Gas]

LOL! Oh it happened alright. Pics below.

Removed fire place flue damper, cut out a chunk of the frame, and broke out 1 and half bricks for anticipated liner routing.

Painted the fireplace bricks because well it looked like poo. Used this Rutland stove paint. Came out pretty good but man does that stuff stink until it dries. I had a fan trying to blow the fumes up the chimney.

Installed the damper the only place i could in the adapter. Had to drill the threads out of a 1/4" nut and used that as a spacer.

Saturday morning was the liner install. Had a buddy come over to help. It poured friday night so the question was how are we going to insulate this liner with the drive way all wet- Plus the liner was all coiled up during shipping. Ran a rope through the liner about 2-3' off the ground. Made quick work of straightening it out, insulating, and getting the mesh on was a breeze.

Sent my buddy on the roof up to the chimney because i dont like heights. Tied a rope the liner and sent it down. It got stuck in 2 places. 1 about half way down the chimney where the tiles are not lined up properly and the second was into the smoke chamber. I reached up with a broom stick and got it through. I just had to tug on the rope while my buddy fed the liner down. We then stuck the stove in to see where the hole in the block off plate needed to go. Cut a 10" hole in the plate to give plenty of wiggle room. Prob could have got away with 8" hole.

Had to get a little creative here. The self tappers were not allowing the damper to fully close.

Took the air tubes out an baffle board. I was able to through bolt it. Damper clears bolt heads.

Stuffed insulation around pipe. Made another plate to seal off the 10" hole to liner.

Didn't have my phone with me on the roof for pics but this is the rain cap i ordered to fit the 13x13 terracotta flue.

Finished product. Also had to reroute the blower wire to come out the right side.

First "small fire" to break it in.

Now trying to figure out how to work it. Picked up a half cord of wood yesterday morning. My wood i had is definitely not as dry.

I should probably create a new thread for this but the fan thermostat seems to be a bit finicky. It takes about an hour for the stove to warm up and the fan to kick on. Some times it turns off well hotter than when it took to turn on in the first place. I'm probably going to add a switch so i can turn it off-on- or auto. Basically just add a manual control (on) option over the t/stat. All in all its a nice stove for the price. Install had it's pita moments. Definitely recommend it. I bought the trio kit direct from Drolet with free shipping. I didn't use the face place or the rain cap just the 25' liner and i prob used about 22-23' of it. Bought the insulation, damper and rain cap from rockford chimney.

Now i'm messing with burn times, air supply, load amount etc....

 

[EbS-P]

Nicely done!